Since the plant "made happy" all UAZ drivers with plastic inserts in the king pin, which must be changed every 10 thousand kilometers, there was no question of replacing it with a more reliable design. The only question was when to change.
There are several alternative designs on the market: these are the kingpin with bearings and the kingpin with bronze liners.
King pins on bearings are more capricious, they cannot withstand shock loads. Although there are many different opinions and many copies have been broken.
We decided to put a proven option: a kingpin with bronze liners from our long-standing partner STO Vaxoil-Service
Since the 2015 Loafs have hybrid axles, a kit for Spicer type axles is needed.
We chose the complete set: with gaskets, cuffs and a pivot key.
"Correct" pivot key
At the same time, if we already climb into this knot, we decided to replace the SHOPKs with new, reinforced ones, with castor + 5 °
SHOPK - Swivel Knuckle Ball Joint
The right and left SHOPK differ from each other, and in order not to confuse them, they are signed.
The installation technology of the bronze insert and the upgraded kingpins practically does not differ from that set out in the "Repair and Operation Manual".
There is also a wonderful instruction, with pictures, from the technical director of the service station "Vaksoil-Service" Pyotr Mazurov for the operation and repair of the pivot assembly of UAZ cars
For our case, we will add that front brakes with ABS are already installed on the UAZ Loaf of 2015, so you still need to remove the ABS sensor
And when removing the tie rods
All steering tips have been replaced with RedBTR products
During dismantling, a sad picture was discovered: the king pins that had been running for six months were already rusty
For comparison, the new and old kingpin
Rust did not reach the working surface, but it was only a matter of time.
Blame the gasket, which did not hold back the flow of water
At the factory SHOPK, for some reason, the kingpin supports were undercooked.
Maybe this is such a technology, or maybe the plant considered that it was so strong
If we compare the factory SHOPK and the new, reinforced one, we can see that:
the new SHOPK is more massive
The thickness of the metal in the thinnest and most loaded place is almost doubled
Factory plastic bushings
The CV joint thrust washer is also plastic
New, will be steel
Got a constructor:
Old SHOPK (put in reserve)
Steering knuckle housing with brake disc
SHRUS (constant velocity joint)
All this is washed from the old grease in gasoline.
We stock up on new grease: Litol-24 in the amount of 1-2 kg and SHRUS-4 grease
But it is much clearer and more understandable to use the video instruction from the service station "Vaksoil-Service"
Installed a bronze liner
They sent him there with a mandrel and then, with an old king pin, they "received" :)
It’s good that a video instruction appeared later and there is no need to rack your brains:
Assembling the second ball joint
At first, they tried to do the installation this way and that, but they came to the conclusion that it was still more convenient on the wheel. (used an old spare)
We fixed the body of the steering knuckle on the spare wheel, stuffed it with LITOL
Installing the CV joint
And we also add lubricants, but now SHRUS-4
We put LITOL-24 into the ball joint
We connect the ball joint with the steering knuckle housing, install the pivots.
The greatest difficulty was caused by the process of catching 0.2 mm. The body of the SHOPK is spherical, measurement with a caliper is highly dependent on how it is positioned. But by trial and error, it seems like they caught these 0.2 mm
We tighten the pivots, install the nuts with a washer and gasket, we also tighten them.
We put the CV joint seal, the cuff of the steering knuckle.
Required tool:
Cuff 32x50-10 with spring assembly, 2 pcs.; Inserts (plastic or bronze), 4 pcs.; Ball bearing gasket (Cat. No. 31-0121238), 2 pcs.; SHRUS-4M; Cold welding;
We install a new cuff of the axle shaft into the ball joint. The orientation of the cuff is carried out along the sealing spring - it must be on the side of the final drive gearbox (i.e., when installing, the spring should "look" at you). Install the gasket on the end of the ball joint. 
In cases where there is slight wear or deformation of the kingpin support along the inner hemisphere, it is allowed to use composite materials to fill the damaged areas. In this case, it is necessary to install the pivots and bushings without waiting for the polymerization of the composition. 
We install new liners (plastic or bronze) in the pivot bearings on the ball joint and apply SHRUS-4M grease to the inner surface of the liners. 
Step 14 Assemble the steering knuckle
Required tool:
Litol-24, 0.5 kg per side; SHRUS-4M, 50-75 grams;
We install new thrust washers of the steering knuckle joint in the ball joint and the steering knuckle housing. 
Before assembly, apply Litol-24 grease, about 0.5 kg, to the inner surfaces of the steering knuckle housing and ball joint 
and insert the axle shaft with a constant velocity joint, on which SHRUS-4M is applied up to 100 grams. 
Step 15 Installing the ball joint
We put a ball joint on the axle shaft, while monitoring the correct orientation of it.
The bottom of the ball joint is determined very simply: on the bottom side of the flange there are three holes, on the top side there are two. We recommend that you notice the orientation of the steering knuckle housings during disassembly, for example, by punching or paint.
We pay attention to this, since the knot is assembled in any combination and you can easily make a mistake. 
Step 16 Lubricate the pivots
Required tool:
Kingpins; SHRUS-4M up to 30 grams";
Lubricate the conical surface and thread of the clamping sleeve, the rubbing surfaces of the king pin with SHRUS-4M grease 
Step 17: Tightening the clamping sleeves
Required tool:
Pivot key; Head for 27; Torque wrench up to 30 kgf*m; Soft (copper or aluminum) mandrel; Hammer; Calipers;
We insert the pins into the threaded holes of the steering knuckle housing and wrap the clamping sleeves until the pins stop in the supports. If you have installed kingpins with a channel for lubrication, then for further work it is necessary to unscrew the grease fittings from them with an "8" wrench 
We center the body of the steering knuckle relative to the ball joint with an accuracy of 0.2 mm from the ends of the influxes of the body of the steering knuckle, using a kingpin wrench with a "27" head 
1 - Pin;
2 - Body of the rotary knuckle;
3 - Expanding sleeve;
4 - Kingpin;
5 - Insert;
6 - Hinge of equal angular velocities;
7 - Ball bearing;
A and B - Controlled dimensions, A=B
Alternately increasing the torque by 2-3 kgf * m, using torque wrench (periodically monitoring the symmetry with respect to the ends, the deviation should not exceed 0.2 mm), tighten the clamping sleeves with a final torque of 20-25 kgf * m.
With a successive increase in the torque of the clamping sleeve, each time through soft mandrel strike with a hammer (video clip) along the axis of the pivots on both sides.
It is necessary to ensure the accuracy of the symmetry of the installation of the ball joint of 0.2 mm, relative to the ends of the influxes of the steering knuckle housing.
Measurements are made using caliper.
This centering is necessary for the correct operation of the axle shaft seals and to reduce the load on the constant velocity joints.
Please note that after tightening the clamping bushings with a force of 25 kgf * m, the ball joint rotates very tightly relative to the steering knuckle housing, as it should be. The turning force is adjusted separately - by tightening the pivot nuts ().
Step 18. Installing the cage and cuff of the steering knuckle
Required tool:
Litol-24, 100 grams; Head for 10
We stuff Litol-24 into the cavity between the ball joint and the steering knuckle housing. 
Then install the cuff of the steering knuckle .. 
We install a felt ring (ring SP134-12-5), which must first be soaked in machine oil. 
Installing the steering knuckle collar 
Using the "10" head, we screw it on eight M6x12 bolts
Step 19: Adjusting the Stop Bolt
Required tool:
Key for 12, 14, 17; Caliper with depth gauge (Columbic);
We screw in the locking bolt-stop with a lock nut, set the previously measured height on the caliper and fix it with a "17" key and a "12" key.
We fasten the bolt M10x1x16 with a "14" key. 
Step 20: Installing the Gasket and Knuckle Arm
Required tool:
Head for 19; Gasket for the kingpin pad (Cat. No. 3160-2304028), 3 pcs.; Swing arm gasket (p/n 3160-2304029), 1 pc.
We install the gasket, lining and screw the M16x1.5 nut with the flange onto the kingpin. 
We install the gasket and the steering knuckle lever, expander bushings and fasten them onto four Ml2x1.25 nuts using the “19” head and screw the M16x1.5 nut with a flange onto the kingpin. This photo shows a variant of the steering knuckle lever for UAZ-374195 cars and its modifications 
Step 21. Installing the steering knuckle with the axle shaft
Required tool:
Key for 14
We fasten the steering knuckle with the axle shaft to the flange of the axle shaft casing with five special bolts Ml0x1x30, two of them having previously put on the rotation limit, with the "14" key until it stops.
Attention, after a run of 200-500 kilometers, repeat the tightening of the indicated five special bolts Ml0x1x30 
Step 22: Ball joint adjustment
Required tool:
Head for 24
Regular king pins are able to serve properly for a long time only if the driver complies with all technological requirements for adjusting and assembling the elements in question, especially after the plant begins to install carbon fiber liners. In the friction zone, carbon fiber is able to work properly without lubrication until dirt appears and the tightness of the seal is not violated. After that, the liners quickly fail. Nevertheless, no matter how many positive qualities carbon fiber kingpins have, it is only clear that this part of the UAZ is considered a weak point. Sooner or later, you will need to replace the pivots with a UAZ.
The features of this procedure are of interest to many car owners, along with the feasibility of switching the manufacturer to liners instead of bushings. The main point is that the pivot assembly produced at the factory requires too much attention to itself. As mentioned earlier, a high performance indicator is observed only when the owner of the car complies with all technological requirements when assembling and adjusting the pivots on the UAZ.
If the necessary requirements are not observed when tightening the pivots during operation, the cone or slotted nut may shrink, resulting in play, often in the upper sample. The transfer of the load distributed along the perimeter of the liner to a point is also carried out. As a result, the carbon fiber is damaged. In any case, the hauling immediately leads to the fact that you will lose control of the cars. In this case, it will be relevant to replace the pivots with a UAZ.
If you do not know how to change the king pin for a UAZ, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the following technologies.
Installation of pivots depending on their type:
- Installation of pins with a bronze insert. Bronze pins are theoretically strong even under heavy suspension shocks. They are more durable compared to bearings, which is why they are placed for heavy off-road. Kingpins with bronze liners give a good result on all UAZ vehicles. It is worth remembering that during the first two thousand kilometers, turning the steering wheel will be a little difficult. After the break-in, when the castor angle increases, the installation is correct, and the lubrication is of high quality, you will exert less effort on the UAZ relative steering wheel. When installing a kingpin with bronze liners on the UAZ, if possible, it is recommended to increase the castor angle so that the wheels can more easily return to their original position on their own without much effort on the part of the driver. The use of bronze pivots on UAZ is considered the most inexpensive and at the same time reliable solution to the problem of low-quality pivots. In the event of any problems, it is imperative that the pivots on the UAZ be repaired in a timely manner.
- Installation of pivots on bearings. UAZ control is greatly facilitated by the pivots on bearings, they are also quite reliable. If the constant operation of the UAZ on heavy off-road is not included in your plans, it would be most advisable to install a kingpin on bearings. The procedure in question will cost significantly more than installing similar elements with bronze liners. In this case, it is mandatory to install a steering damper. Without this element, the car will behave as if the front wheels need to be balanced.
If you do not know how to replace the kingpin with a UAZ, it is recommended to use the following step-by-step instructions.
Step-by-step technology for replacing pivots:
- Drain the oil from the axle, jack up the axle and chock the wheels.
- Unscrew the brake caliper together with the disc.
- Unscrew the brake shield and remove the wire assembly together with the bearing housing.
- Remove the steering tip and unscrew the lower oiler.
- Remove the kingpin cap along with the lubrication valve.
- Remove the plug from the lower king pin.
- Soak the disassembled kingpins and disassemble the second side in the same sequence.
- Thoroughly clean the removed units and inspect them visually.
- Lubricate the bushings and compress them.
- Clear the channel of the lubrication spiral from chips and inspect it.
- Replace the axle shaft seals if necessary, then lubricate the lips with oil.
- Check the pins in the trunnion upon completion of work. Each threaded connection must be checked on the CV joint. View the axial movement of the knuckle.
- Install the oiler and king pin cover.
- Lubricate the drive neck and insert the wire after the final check.
- Assemble all knots in reverse order.
On this, the procedure for replacing the pivots hastily completed. It is strongly recommended that you work with someone who understands this subject if you know absolutely nothing about replacing kingpins.
Video instruction - "Replacing the pivots on the UAZ"
The running gear of any car is subjected to serious loads. UAZ is no exception. Moreover, some of the models are taken off-road, where the load on the suspension increases tenfold. On any UAZ, a classic suspension scheme is used - pivot. Over time, these elements fail. How to determine their wear and replace the pivots on the UAZ? Find out the answer in our today's article.
Characteristic
What is a kingpin? This is the swivel pivot. Mounted on the steering axle of the car. The pivot pin is used to connect the knuckle to the bridge beam or bearing pins (depending on the design). In the case of UAZ, the kingpin is integrated into the bridge, which can be the leading one when using all-wheel drive.
Symptoms
Damage symptoms do not appear immediately. So, the motorist will notice uneven tire wear.
With even greater development, axial or radial play will appear. In this case, the steering wheel may vibrate at speed. You can diagnose an element as follows:
- Hang out the front axle.
- Check the wheel play without removing it in the radial and axial direction.
- When worn, the UAZ king pin changes to a new one.
Also check the distance between the beam and the fist. The gap should not exceed 0.2 mm.
Why does the UAZ king pin need to be changed on time?
With significant wear, there is a risk of failure of the tie rod ends, springs and silent blocks. The most dangerous outcome is the pin jamming in one direction. If this happens at speed, serious consequences are possible.
How to replace the pivots with your own hands?
First, drain the oil from the bridge. If it is black, it cannot be reused. Next, we tear off the wheel bolts and jack up the car. Having hung out the bridge, we proceed to dismantle the caliper and brake shield - they will interfere with us when replacing the pivots on the UAZ.
Next, we screw the M10 bolt into the kingpin. Then we draw out the hat and take out the element in this way. If dismantling with a bolt fails, a steel plate is required. We fix it above the king pin and make a hole M10. Through it we already screw our bolt of the appropriate diameter. We bait a few nuts under the plate and tighten them.
Next, the king pin should come out. At the next stage, we press out the sleeve and take out the washer. With the latter, there are no difficulties, but the first lends itself with difficulty. To press out the sleeve, you need to break the lock with a sharpened nail. We slip the latter under the sleeve and squeeze it in a circle. If the element is tight, you can resort to using pliers. After dismantling, the inner part of the sleeve is degreased and cleaned of dirt.
When replacing the UAZ kingpin, it is important to completely clean the old bushing from grease. Instead, a new one is laid. As such, "Litol-24" is used. Next, install a new kingpin. It is hammered through a wooden block with a hammer. The king pin is not completely pressed in - it is important to exclude the slightest distortions. Otherwise, it will go tight and with a characteristic sound. If this happens, the kingpin is taken out and pressed in again. All other elements are assembled in reverse order.
UAZ pivot adjustment
A mandatory step after replacement is steering adjustment. Otherwise, there may be problems with zhorom rubber and car withdrawal to the side. Adjustment is done with spacers. Start with the top pivot. For the bronze element, 4 spacers 0.5 mm thick each are used. For roller bearing - 5 with the same thickness. Next, we tighten the mechanism and go for a test drive. It is unacceptable for the wheel to heat up. If so, the kingpin needs to be loosened by reducing the number of shims.
Which ones to choose?
In addition to the factory carbon fiber ones (which the owners do not recommend installing in any way), there are several types of kingpins:
- Bearing.
- On a bronze bushing.
The first variety has a complex structure. Such UAZ kingpins combine the lower half with a tapered bearing and a thrust ring, as well as a holder.
The latter is pressed into the steering knuckle housing. A hole for lubrication is provided at the bottom of the UAZ king pin (central and side channels). Judging by the reviews, it is great for asphalt roads - the steering wheel rotates much easier, and the resource is about 100 thousand kilometers. By the way, easy rotation of the steering wheel is provided by reducing the friction force. So, the two halves of the mechanism rotate on the bearing, and not on the ball.
If the UAZ was purchased off-road (which is done in 80 percent of cases), you cannot do without bronze bushings. Such pivots were installed regularly on the UAZ-469. But there are models for modern "Patriots", as well as "Hunters".
Bronze elements are highly resistant to shock loads - such bushings are an order of magnitude stronger than bearing ones. But the steering will be tighter. The cost is almost identical to the previous ones - 1.5 thousand rubles per set. These are excellent pivots for UAZ "Loaf", "Hunter" and 469th. True, like the previous ones, they require regular lubrication and inspection. We describe this procedure in detail below.
About squirting
This is the name of the procedure for lubricating the bushings of the mechanism. It is produced through a grease fitting using a specialized syringe. A waterproof lubricant is placed inside the latter (for example, Litol-24).
Next, the oiler opens and a hose-tip is screwed into the hole. You need to press in the grease until a new one comes out of the slots. Old grease is usually white and very dry to the touch.
How often should the pins be injected? This procedure is performed every 20 thousand kilometers or once a year. This simple preventive measure will extend the life of the bushings and allow for easier steering. This is noticeable from the first meters of the road.
Finally
The kingpin is both an element of both the running gear and the steering. Therefore, this mechanism must be kept in good condition. With significant output, the owner of an UAZ SUV will experience a lot of problems, one of which is uneven tread wear. Therefore, it is so important to diagnose the malfunction in time and carry out maintenance (syringing of the pivots).
The pivot assembly of the UAZ Patriot car is a kind of large “hinge”, which provides one of the degrees of freedom for the front wheels of the car, which is necessary for its control, that is, for operation.
Usually, when the kingpins are worn, knocking problems are possible, which is associated with the appearance of play between the mating parts. Also, backlash in the pivots is possible in case of damage, from strong blows, or if parts are incorrectly selected during repairs.
Tools needed to replace UAZ Patriot pivots
Flat screwdriver
- Pliers, Wrench for: 12, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24,
- Set of sockets for: 8, 10, 14, 19, 24, 27,
- Special head for 19 (dimensions),
- Kingpin key (drawing),
- Hammer,
- Copper hammer or soft mandrel,
- wooden block,
- montage,
- Locksmith vice (in case of absence, it is allowed to fix the ball joint rotated by 90 degrees in the flange of the axle shaft casing),
- Vernier caliper with depth gauge (columbic), M36x2 tap (needed only in case of damage to the thread in the body of the steering knuckle when turning out the expansion sleeve), Torque wrench up to 30 kgf * m
Spare parts for replacing pivots UAZ Patriot
The number of spare parts is given for the repair of pivot assemblies on two sides of the front axle of the machine.
Cuff 32x50-10 with spring assembly, 2 pcs. (Cat. No. 3741-2304071-01).,
- Steering knuckle cuff, 2 pcs. (cat. no. 3160-2304052),
- Ring SP 134-120-5, 2 pcs. (cat. no. 3160-2304055),
- Insert (plastic or bronze), 4 pcs. (p/n 3160-2304023 or 3160-2304023 bronze),
- Bolt Ml0x1x30 special, 2-3 pcs. (this is due to the fact that during the dismantling process they can be broken) (Cat. No. 290784-P29),
- SHRUS-4M grease - 0.2 kg and Litol-24 - 1 kg, Kingpin, 4 pcs. (cat. no. 3160-2304019 or 3160-2304019 upgraded with grease fitting),
- Thrust washer for the steering knuckle joint, 4 pcs. (cat. no. 3741-2304024),
- Gasket for swing arm (Cat. No. 3160-2304029), 1 pc.,
- Gasket for the kingpin pad (Cat. No. 3160-2304028), 3 pcs.,
- Ball bearing gasket (Cat. No. 31-0121238), 2 pcs.,
- Split pins 3.2x25 (cat. No. 258040-P29) steering nuts, 4 pcs.
The process of replacing the pivots on the UAZ Patriot
Removing bipod traction
Unpin with a screwdriver and unscrew the M14x1.5 nut securing the bipod link pin to the steering knuckle lever with a "22" wrench and remove the bipod link.
The bipod is shown on the bridge in installed form
Removing the brake mechanism
Scheme for removing the UAZ brake mechanism with disc brakes
Turn away bolts of fastening of brake mechanisms to the case of a rotary knuckle a special head "on 19" and remove them.
We unscrew the grease nipples with the king pins, if any.
Removal of fastening of the lever of a rotary fist
We unscrew the M16x1.5 nut with a flange with a kingpin head "24"
On the steering knuckle lever, with a "19" head, unscrew the four nuts M12x1.25 securing the steering knuckle lever
and take out the expansion bushings. The bushings can stick, so you need to put a few blows with a hammer on the end of the steering knuckle lever and then remove it
Removing the pad with gasket
We unscrew the remaining nuts M16x1.5 with a flange with a "24" head and remove the lining with the gasket.
Removing the clamping sleeve
We apply several sharp blows to the kingpins, through a copper spacer or a copper hammer to relieve the tension between the kingpin and the clamping sleeve.
With a pivot key and a "27" head, we unscrew the clamping sleeve a few turns.
Removing the steering knuckle
With a key or a “14” head, we unscrew five M10x1x30 bolts of special fastenings of the ball joint to the flange of the axle housing. Remove the turn limiter.
Tapping with a hammer through a wooden block, we disconnect the flanges so that the mounting blade passes into the connector.
With a mounting spatula, trying not to damage the cardboard gasket, we wring out and finally disconnect the flanges and remove the steering knuckle.
We clamp the steering knuckle with the axle shaft in the yew of the locksmith for the tie rod lever
We measure the overhang of the stop bolt with a caliper and record
With the key "14" we unscrew the bolt M10x1x16.
With the key "17" we loosen the tightening of the locknut and with the key "12" we unscrew the stop bolt
Removal of a clip of a cuff of a rotary fist
With a “10” head, we unscrew the remaining eight bolts M6x12 fastening the holder of the cuff of the steering knuckle and remove it
Removing the ball joint and CV joint
Using a 27" head wrench, unscrew the clamping bushings and remove the kingpin
Having remembered (marking - with punching or paint) the orientation of the ball joint in the steering knuckle, take it out and remove it from the axle shaft
From the steering knuckle we take out the axle shaft with a hinge of equal angular velocities
Removal of liners and cuffs of a semiaxis
We remove the old liners and cuffs of the axle shaft from the ball joint (cuff 32x50-10 with a spring assembly).
Very often, when using low-quality pivot keys, the thread in the steering knuckle housing under the clamping sleeve is damaged.
If the thread is damaged, it must be corrected with a tap M36x2
Troubleshooting parts
We wash all parts in kerosene or diesel fuel and inspect them. Cracks, scuffs and other damage are unacceptable on parts
Installing new inserts
Cuff 32x50-10 with spring assembly, 2 pcs.; Inserts (plastic or bronze), 4 pcs.; Ball bearing gasket (Cat. No. 31-0121238), 2 pcs.; SHRUS-4M; Cold welding;
We install a new cuff of the axle shaft into the ball joint. The orientation of the cuff is carried out along the sealing spring - it must be on the side of the final drive gearbox (i.e., when installing, the spring should "look" at you). Install the gasket on the end of the ball joint.
In cases where there is slight wear or deformation of the kingpin support along the inner hemisphere, it is allowed to use composite materials to fill the damaged areas. In this case, it is necessary to install the pivots and bushings without waiting for the polymerization of the composition.
We install new liners (plastic or bronze) in the pivot bearings on the ball joint and apply SHRUS-4M grease to the inner surface of the liners.
Steering knuckle assembly
We install new thrust washers of the steering knuckle joint in the ball joint and the steering knuckle housing.
Before assembly, apply Litol-24 grease, about 0.5 kg, to the inner surfaces of the steering knuckle housing and ball joint
and insert the axle shaft with a constant velocity joint, on which SHRUS-4M is applied up to 100 grams.
Installing the ball joint
We put a ball joint on the axle shaft, while monitoring the correct orientation of it.
The bottom of the ball joint is determined very simply: on the bottom side of the flange there are three holes, on the top side there are two. We recommend that you notice the orientation of the steering knuckle housings during disassembly, for example, by punching or paint.
We pay attention to this, since the knot is assembled in any combination and you can easily make a mistake.
Pivot lubrication
Lubricate the conical surface and thread of the clamping sleeve, the rubbing surfaces of the king pin with SHRUS-4M grease
Tightening clamping sleeves
We insert the pins into the threaded holes of the steering knuckle housing and wrap the clamping sleeves until the pins stop in the supports. If you have installed kingpins with a channel for lubrication, then for further work it is necessary to unscrew the grease fittings from them with an "8" wrench
We center the body of the steering knuckle relative to the ball joint with an accuracy of 0.2 mm from the ends of the influxes of the body of the steering knuckle, using a kingpin wrench with a "27" head
1 - Pin;
2 - Body of the rotary knuckle;
3 - Expanding sleeve;
4 - Kingpin;
5 - Insert;
6 - Hinge of equal angular velocities;
7 - Ball bearing;
A and B - Controlled dimensions, A=B
By successively increasing the torque by 2-3 kgf*m, using a torque wrench (periodically controlling the symmetry with respect to the ends, the deviation should not exceed 0.2 mm), tighten the clamping bushings with a final torque of 20-25 kgf*m.
With a consistent increase in the torque of the clamping sleeve, each time through a soft mandrel, strike with a hammer along the axis of the king pins on both sides.
It is necessary to ensure the accuracy of the symmetry of the installation of the ball joint of 0.2 mm, relative to the ends of the influxes of the steering knuckle housing. Measurements are made using a caliper.
This centering is necessary for the correct operation of the axle shaft seals and to reduce the load on the constant velocity joints.
Please note that after tightening the clamping bushings with a force of 25 kgf * m, the ball joint rotates very tightly relative to the steering knuckle housing, as it should be. The turning force is adjusted separately - by tightening the nuts of the pivots.
Installation of a clip and a cuff of a rotary fist
We stuff Litol-24 into the cavity between the ball joint and the steering knuckle housing.
Then install the cuff of the steering knuckle ..
We install a felt ring (ring SP134-12-5), which must first be soaked in machine oil.
Install the steering knuckle collar. Using the "10" head, we screw it on eight M6x12 bolts. We screw in the locking bolt-stop with a lock nut, set the previously measured height on the caliper and fix it with a "17" key and a "12" key. We fasten the bolt M10x1x16 with a "14" key. We install the gasket, lining and screw the M16x1.5 nut with the flange onto the kingpin.
We install the gasket and the steering knuckle lever, expander bushings and fasten them onto four Ml2x1.25 nuts using the “19” head and screw the M16x1.5 nut with a flange onto the kingpin. This photo shows a variant of the steering knuckle lever for UAZ-374195 cars and its modifications
Installing a steering knuckle with a half shaft
We fasten the steering knuckle with the axle shaft to the flange of the axle shaft housing with five special bolts M10x1x30, two of them were previously dressed to limit the turn, with the key "14" until it stops.
Attention, after a run of 200-500 kilometers, repeat the tightening of the indicated five special bolts M10x1x30
Ball joint adjustment
Pre-tighten the M16x1.5 nuts with a 24 head flange with a torque of 5 kgf * m.
The torque of rotation of the ball joint in any direction relative to the common axis of the pivots must be within 1.0 - 2.5 kgf * m, i.e. holding the body of the steering knuckle with your hands, you must freely turn it around the axis. If this does not happen, tighten the M16x1.5 nuts with a flange on both sides until the desired result is achieved.
The maximum tightening force is 15 kgf * m.
Installation of brake mechanisms
In reverse order of removal, see above
We fasten the grease fittings (if they are provided for by the design) with the key "8" to the kingpin. We fasten the fasteners of the brake mechanisms to the body of the steering knuckle with a special head "19" on the bolts.
Installation of rods of the steering trapezoid
Install the steering trapezium linkage, screw the fingers with a "22" wrench and cotter pin the M14x1.5 nut. Reuse of old cotter pins is not recommended.
Install the bipod linkage to the steering knuckle lever, screw the fingers with a M14x1.5 nut with a “22” wrench and cotter it.
Install the wheel. Attention! Before driving the car after completing the repair, press the brake pedal several times to press the front caliper pads against the brake discs.