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How to install a gasoline engine on a bicycle with your own hands. Making a bicycle with a motor with your own hands Installing a gasoline engine on a tricycle

The idea to put an engine on a bicycle appeared a long time ago: it was implemented in a moped. However, a moped is still a separate mode of transport, which differs from a bicycle in greater complexity, weight and price. In a time when cycling is more popular than ever, and modern technology has reached a high level, cyclists and engineers have returned to the old idea: to create an engine for a bicycle. Demand immediately responded to the offer. And now the market is filled with various bicycle engines: removable and stationary, gasoline, gas and electric. Let's take a brief look at each of them.

Bicycle Gasoline Engine

The market now offers a wide variety of such engines. As a rule, these are air-cooled single-cylinder two-stroke engines with power from one to four horsepower. The main difference between them is the way they are mounted on the bike. Here are some examples of the most popular units.

1. Engine for a bicycle mounted on a frame, having a displacement of up to 50 cubic centimeters and a drive to the front sprocket. Its power is about one and a half horsepower, and the possible maximum speed does not exceed 30 km / h. The advantages of this solution are low price, low fuel consumption (1 liter per 100 km), the ability to use a bicycle gearshift and work with pedals. The disadvantages were a lot of noise and low power when driving uphill.

2. Engine (for a bicycle) "Comet". This is a ready-to-install kit to be placed over the wheel that will be driven. Usually it is placed on the rear trunk, and accordingly, the rear wheel remains leading, but it is also possible to install it in front. Such engines are available in power from one to two horsepower and can accelerate the bike up to 50 km / h. The undoubted advantages of "Kometa" are compactness and the ability to quickly dismantle. But it is twice as expensive as a frame engine and does not look very “presentable”.

3. Yamaha engine. This is the best gasoline engine. The power of the Japanese manufacturer's units can reach four horsepower, which is more than enough for a bicycle. Also the best in comparison with the samples described above are the technical characteristics and external design of Yamaha engines.

4. Engines made in China. In China, a lot of different units are produced, which do not radically differ from the above. The only Chinese "know-how" is the use of gas as a fuel.

Should you put an electric motor on a bike?

The electric motor has many significant advantages. It does not make noise, has excellent throttle response, does not need gasoline, and is therefore environmentally friendly. The only but big drawback of any electric motor is the small capacity of the batteries and the need to charge them for hours. However, they are enough for a trip of 50 km. For longer cycling trips, batteries with a large capacity are used, as well as dynamos driven by pedals or one of the bicycle wheels. Of course, the electric motor for a bicycle is our future, but it will only become real when batteries with a sufficiently large capacity or the ability to charge quickly are invented.

How to install a motor on a regular bike with a triangular male frame with your own hands is described and shown in the following paragraphs of the instructions.

Install the rubber spacers - one between the spokes and the other behind the spokes, as shown in the pictures below.






Put the sprocket on the hub on the outside of the wheel, and the crescent on the inside of the wheel, and tighten them with bolts as shown in figures 4 and 5.

When the sprocket is screwed onto the wheel, check that it is installed correctly. The gap must be at least 1.5 mm on both sides. If the gap exceeds the allowable limit, then it must be corrected by rotating the wheel, and then tighten the sprocket where necessary. Make sure the bolts have been carefully tightened.

Pay attention to the bulges and dimples of the teeth of the rear sprocket, inward towards the spokes. This will help prevent loosening of the chain and ensure the correct distance from the rear wheel to the bike frame.

Install the motor as shown in Figure 6. Once properly installed, the motor should look like Figure 7.




3. Installation of the throttle and electrical equipment

The new throttle is mounted on the right side of the handlebar as shown in Figure 8. Before installing it on the handlebar, a 5mm diameter hole must be drilled in the handlebar handle at a distance of 125mm from the end to locate the plastic mount. Be careful when installing the throttle. A switch is included with the throttle. Connect one switch to the black motor wire and the other to the blue motor wire. When the switch is pressed, the engine will stop.

Install the clutch lever on the left side of the handlebar (Figure 9) and connect it as shown in Figure 10 and Figure 11.






4. Installation of a gas tank and additional equipment

Install the fuel filter valve in the fuel tank, and then install the gas tank itself. Install the fuel tank on the upper frame of the bicycle, as shown in Figure 12.

Install the ignition coil on the frame near the engine as shown in Figure 13 and connect the wires to the engine and to the switch: Blue to Blue, Black to Black. The white wire is the alternator, which has a maximum voltage of 5A, 7.5V. The white wire can be used for a 6V lamp, but if you connect a large load to this wire, you may damage the alternator.

5. Installation of tensioner and chain guard

Install the chain tensioner as shown in Figure 14. Next, put the chain on the sprocket and on the engine (Figure 15). Tighten the chain, but do not overtighten it. Then install the chain guard as shown in Figure 16.






Remove the carburetor cover and lay out all its parts (Figure 17). Place the needle in the center of the carburetor caliper and place a slotted flat washer on top of the needle. Make sure the slot lines up with the slot in the carburetor caliper as shown in Figure 18. Install the cable into the plastic chuck, then thread it through the carb cap and through the spring as shown in Figure 19.









Maintenance and adjustment

    Gap adjustment

    Adjust the gap between the spark plug electrodes. It should be about 0.4-0.5 mm.

    clutch adjustment

    The free play of the clutch handle should be 2-3 mm. This will ensure minimal clutch wear and prevent slipping. Adjust the required position of the clutch handle with screws.

    Fuel preparation

    The engine in this kit is a gasoline, two-stroke. Runs on a blend of fully synthetic oil and gasoline. The oil-petrol mixture must be prepared and thoroughly mixed in a separate canister, in the proportion indicated below, and then poured into the fuel tank.

Mixing ratio petrol-oil: 20:1 (at the beginning of operation); 25:1 (after 500 km run).

Attention!

Do not fill the tank with two types of gasoline. Do not fill with clean gasoline without adding oil. After adding fuel to the tank, make sure the tank cap is completely screwed on.

Engine Troubleshooting

Engine does not start:

  1. Clogged carburetor air filter element - wash or replace.
  2. Check for fuel leakage - replace the sealing washer if necessary.
  3. Check the presence of carbon deposits on the spark plug - if necessary, clean the spark plug electrodes and check the gap between the electrodes (it should be approximately 0.4-0.5 mm).
  4. If the engine has been started repeatedly, there may be an excess of fuel in the engine cylinder - remove the spark plug to remove excess fuel.
  5. Check high voltage wire and ignition coil for damage - replace if necessary.
  6. Check the condition of the piston and piston rings - replace if necessary.

The engine is unstable and does not develop rated power:

  1. Check if throttle is open.

Engine starts but stalls:

  1. Check if the air filter is clogged.
  2. Check if the fuel system is blocked.
  3. Check and clean the carburetor.

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I will write slowly, not all at once.
Motorbikes with trim
I got carried away with the motor after one winter I rode an MTB with
belt cycle motor Comet. After Dashka, which I had then,
It was a culture shock, to say the least. Dashka was sold, and in return
a mountain bike Stealth 850 and a Comet 1.5 bike motor (1.5 hp, 33cc) were bought.
Then there was the story of a short commercial collaboration with Comet,
pokatushki and disappointment in the belt scheme. Decided to build an indestructible
all-weather motorbike with a chain drive. Well, he built it.
Design
was like this: a rack bent from an aluminum profile 20x5, gear
reduction gear 5:1, sprockets from a Chinese minibike, driven star
was machined and screwed to the wheel hub, motor and pedal sprockets
separated by an aluminum screen, some of the stars from the large cassette were removed.


And on the very first trip I went to the famous "race of the century":



The motobike at the race showed itself well, despite the fact that before that
never went. But, like most unfinished designs, on
fell apart on the way back. And fell apart many more times while experienced
the fundamental flaws in the design were not eliminated.

More about shoals:


Cant number one - the chain from the Chinese minibike was pulled so fast that
the length of the grooves for tensioning the chain was not enough. Motor mount to which
fastened the motor with the gearbox was redesigned under the tension of the motionless
eccentric roller:



But this didn’t help at all - the chain continued to stretch very strongly and even
and the roller was ground. Installed a spring loaded tensioner
chain stretching didn't bother me. Those. the chain is stretching the same way, but
the tensioner tightened it in time:



Cant number two - the aluminum rack burst from vibration, broke their pieces 3. Then I got tired and made a steel one (6x20).
It can be seen in the photo along with an improved bearing tensioner:


In parallel with this, a strange phenomenon was present: when moving
coasting at a decent speed in the transmission there were strong blows,
I could not understand their nature until a certain moment. As it turned out, at
vertical position of the chain when coasting at the moment when the leading and
the driven branches of the chain change roles, and the tensioner was pressed for the entire stroke
pulling branch, the chain sagged under the driven star.
Sagging was facilitated by the fact that the leading star when coasting
the motor slowed down the driven branch of the chain. As a result of the sagging of the star in
one beautiful moment embraced the star not with every link, but with
excluding some of the links, it turned out that the chain suddenly became shorter,
than the distance between the stars - at that moment there followed such a non-fig
hit. When the blows finally finished off and the steel rack I became
come up with a completely different solution.


long thoughts and
observations while driving helped to come up with a way out - an overrunning clutch between
motor and wheel! With this scheme, the leading and driven branches of the circuit
fundamentally cannot change roles, and, consequently, there will be no
notorious chain slack. For one thing I decided to get rid of the crappy
Chinese stars and chains that the hell you can buy (this is at an extremely low
resource). No sooner said than done:


Bicycle freewheel on the gearbox shaft:



The KhVZ driven star for 51 teeth (it was screwed to the old one for the experiment):

General form:


The decision turned out to be successful, all the blows stopped. Driving has become very
cool, the resource of the components increased, everything was cool. So I drove around
1000 kilometers.

The design inspired me so much that I decided to start mass production.


For a serial bike motor, several aspects are important: accessibility
components, reliability, the most simple installation, unification. IN
In connection with this, several upgrades were carried out:

Fastening
driven star to the spokes through a special shaped faceplate.
Designed to mount on any wheel with 32 or 36 spokes. For each
a special collar was put on the knitting needle, which was attracted by a screw to
faceplate. A driven star was attached to the faceplate with screws.






I made a restrictive screen on the driven star. He shared the pedal and
motor circuit. Later it was installed on both sides of the driven
stars. This completely eliminates the possibility of the chain jumping off the star.





The stand was made composite. This made it possible to
adjustment of the position of the drive relative to the wheel, the set has become
can be mounted on almost any bike.




The adapter for the freewheel to the gearbox was made of steel instead of aluminum. Aluminum quickly wore out in the slots.


Caprolon tensioner rollers were made:



In this form, the kit turned out to be quite versatile and reliable. IN
the moment the sales start, the kit will be named "Hare". The kit had
the following characteristics:

- Engines Texas (2T, 1.5 HP - 33cc and 2 HP - 42cc) or Honda GX35 (4T, 1.6 HP - 35cc)
- The weight of the set is 7 kg.
- fuel consumption 1.5-2.5 liters depending on the engine.
- Maximum speed 52-58 km/h depending on the motor
- Easy pedal travel of the bike while maintaining gears
- common and easily accessible consumables.
- all-weather and reliability

The kit also had disadvantages:

- The quality of minibike gearboxes floated from batch to batch.
Some walked thousands of kilometers, some wedged, made noise, flowed,
came across crooked clutch cups

- The chain needs to be lubricated, and a lubricated chain gets dirty.
- It is necessary to remove the 3 leftmost stars from the bicycle cassette.
- A rather complicated installation, it required precise alignment of the stars and fitting of some elements in place.


A total of 20 commercial "Hares" of varying degrees were made.
modernization and configuration + 1 my experimental + 1 was
assembled from a stash of spare parts for a friend. A total of 22 pieces. Here is a photo
commercial copies assembled with bicycles:








For certain reasons, production had to be curtailed. But all
I still have documentation, drawings, etc., so perhaps
the story will continue...


All sorts of crazy trips were made on motorbikes "Hare". For example, we went with bleonid on two "Hares" to Yaroslavl:

Now among people who prefer a bicycle as a means of transportation, it is becoming popular to install electric motors. After all, they make driving much easier. An electric motor for a bicycle can be assembled and installed by hand.

Description

This device for bicycles is of several types:

  • wheel motor;
  • outboard engine;
  • friction gear motor.

Just like cars, motorized bicycles can be:

  • front-wheel drive;
  • rear-wheel drive;
  • all-wheel drive.

motor wheel

This engine has many advantages, which led it to popularity among cyclists:

  1. Easy mounting and removal of the motor. Not requiring special skills.
  2. Possibility of installation on a regular bike.
  3. It is possible to create both front-wheel drive and all-wheel drive models.
  4. The device is almost invisible and looks like a regular hub.

The power of such an engine can be from 150 to 2000 watts. From this indicator depends on which motor you need to install. With a voltage of 24 to 48 V. So, depending on the selected indicators, it is necessary to select a suitable battery.

Reference! With such an engine, the bike can reach speeds of up to 70 km / h. At the same time, the charge is enough on average for 50-60 km. As you go uphill, the performance decreases.

Flaws:

  • increasing the weight of the bike;
  • you may need to install a reinforced fork;
  • drive power limits.

outboard engine

This type of engine is an independent part, attached to the bottom of the bicycle frame. A prerequisite for installation is the need to install a protective casing for the motor.

The engine transmits power through a chain drive to the bike's rear sprocket. The engine is powered by a battery.

  1. The presence of a stepped gear shifter.
  2. More efficient and economical.
  3. Increased speed performance. A bicycle with such an electric motor can reach speeds of up to 120 km / h.
  4. Can be installed on almost any bike.
  1. Installation may be difficult.
  2. Noisy engine operation.
  3. The bike frame must be strong enough to support the bulky structure.
  4. The increase in the weight of the bike after installing such a motor.

Friction gear motor

This type of engine is very easy to install, for this it is not even necessary to disassemble the bike. Principle of operation: the torque from the electric motor goes directly to the wheel. But this type has more minuses than pluses.

  1. Ease of installation.
  1. Low performance.
  2. Rapid wheel wear.
  3. When it rains, engine performance deteriorates.

Self-manufacturing

It is very difficult to make an electric motor on your own. In this case, two options are possible:

  1. Remove the engine from the electrical appliance (chainsaw, washing machine, lawn mower, etc.).
  2. Buy a kit for an electric motor.

Engine with electrical appliance

Initially, for this you need to find where to get the motor. And it's not that easy. Basically, electrical appliances are designed for a voltage of 220 V. This means that in order to put such a mechanism into action, a high-power battery is required. And this, in turn, will make the bike very heavy.

The exact opposite situation may also occur. For example, you took the motor from a lawn mower. It may be too weak to even move your bike.

This means that you can make an electric motor yourself, but this is a rather time-consuming process. There are many factors to consider when selecting equipment.

Electric motor kit

If you do not want to purchase a ready-made kit to improve the vehicle, you can buy individual parts and create an electric motor yourself. For this you need:

  • controller;
  • engine;
  • batteries and charger for them.

For the electric motor, you can use the following batteries:

  1. Nickel metal hydride.
  2. Lithium-ion.

Batteries can be attached:

  1. In a dedicated container.
  2. On the frame and in its compartments.

You can also purchase upgrade parts. For example, an indicator of the degree of battery charge, which will also notify you of the speed of movement and the force of pressing the gas pedal.

How to install?

If you still decide to purchase a ready-made electric motor and install it yourself. It is better to buy a motor-wheel, as it has good performance and there will be no difficulties during installation. This engine can be installed on both the front and rear wheels. The most common option is the second one and we will consider it.

Important! When buying a kit, the main thing is to accurately select the size of the motor-wheel for the bike fork.

If everything is correctly selected, you can proceed with the installation:

  1. First, remove the rear wheel.
  2. Install the wheel motor with the drive to the left and the sprockets to the right.
  3. Mount the whole circuit, but do not fix it much.
  4. Connect the wire according to the diagram.
  5. Install the chain and center the motor.
  6. If there is no noticeable runout in the motor wheel, fix it.
  7. Next, securely fix all parts and insulate all wires.
  8. Check the performance of the advanced unit and you're done.
Reference! If you have any problems when installing the electric motor, it is better to contact the support service. This will save you from breaking the entire system.

If changing the wheel was not your plan, then it is better to give your preference to the outboard engine. Installation is somewhat more complicated than in the previous version.

In a nutshell, mounting an outboard is as follows:

  1. You need to remove the rear wheel.
  2. Connect the chain and motor together.
  3. Install: motor block; battery; control unit and adjusting knobs.
  4. Connect all elements of the set together.
  5. After that, check the correctness and reliability of the installed elements, as well as the operation of the unit. With low engine power, it may be necessary to stimulate the movement of the pedals.

An electric motor for a bicycle can greatly facilitate your movement, especially if this type of transport is the main one for you. During operation, this device will not bring much trouble. Your main task will be to control the battery level and prevent excessive moisture from entering the motor.

A bicycle with a motor combines many advantages. This is a new generation device, which is a very high-tech mode of transport today. All this makes it possible to achieve that the technique is able to provide its consumer with many different possibilities. If you want to become the owner of a bicycle hybrid, you need to be prepared for the fact that such a miracle costs much more than ordinary bicycles. Sometimes their price even exceeds the mark of 150,000 rubles.

Homemade bike with a motor

Therefore, many today prefer to make a homemade bicycle equipped with a motor. Of course, this will have to spend a lot of effort, but it will be possible to save some amount of money.

Advantages of a motorized bicycle

The motorbike combines a lot of advantages. Equipped with a motor that, when properly connected, can operate almost silently. In addition, the device runs on electricity (current can be created using a trimmer). This in turn guarantees that nothing will spoil the movement on the road.

Due to the fact that the device runs on current, it is quite economical, because electricity is much cheaper than gasoline. Its price is almost 7 times less.

You can charge the device using a regular outlet. Moreover, if suddenly charging is completely over, this does not mean that you will have to go further on foot. After that, the bike equipped with a motor turns into a regular bike. Movement on it is possible by pedaling.

Maneuverability and compactness

A motorbike has a huge advantage in urban traffic jams. Thanks to its compact size and maneuverability, it can be used to get out of almost any traffic jam that has developed on the road.

Accelerates to fairly high speeds. Therefore, using such a bike equipped with a motor, you can reach your destination in a matter of minutes.

You can easily store it at home. The motor can be easily removed, so the parts can even be stored separately.

Ease of maintenance

The maintenance of such equipment is simple and convenient, since you do not need to spend your time filling up gasoline, maintaining filters, cleaning the trimmer, etc.

Spare parts are on sale, so if any of the parts breaks down, you can always find and buy it.

However, there are also petrol models, which in some areas have their own specific advantages. You can buy them anywhere where motorcycles are sold. But to make such a device with your own hands is also quite possible.

We make the device ourselves

Not everyone can buy a motorbike, the price of which is very high. Therefore, many are interested in how you can make this type of transport with your own hands. Naturally, in order to start this process, it is necessary to have at least minimal knowledge in this area. In addition, first of all, you need to buy all the necessary parts that will be needed in the process.

I option: buy a motor-wheel

Of course, you can buy a special motor-wheel, which is already equipped with all the necessary parts. However, its price can hit the pocket hard, so there is another option, which we will look at a little later.

Together with the wheel, a controller, a throttle handle, a brake handle and a charger, a Pas system are sold in the kit. The controller is needed to convert the direct current coming from the battery into alternating current. The Pas system activates the motor while pedaling.

Brake levers help the device brake quickly and efficiently.

Installation

When installing the motor-wheel with your own hands, you should perform such actions in strict order. Turn the bike upside down, then remove the rear wheel that was installed on the bike from the factory. When installing a new wheel, you need to pay attention to the fact that the bundle with all the wires is on the left side of the bike. Otherwise, the wheel may rotate in the opposite direction, which cannot guarantee the safety of the bike rider.

After the wheel is fully installed, you will still need to install the batteries to the frame, as well as the controller. It is very important to perform additional insulation by wrapping it, for example, with a plastic bag.

Connect all other equipment. Mandatory condition: connection to the battery must be made using a 20A fuse.

The bike with the motor is ready.

Option II: a bike with a chainsaw motor

This option is only possible if there is a broken chainsaw with a running motor. The fact is that in order to buy a new chainsaw, you will have to spend a lot of money, since its price fluctuates within 20,000 rubles.

Any bicycle can be used, the main thing is that it is in good condition. A chainsaw with a 1.5 hp engine is quite suitable for a bicycle. The engine is mounted above the frame with a clamp, which you can buy at any hardware store.

You can fix the sleeve with special washers and screws.

To install the gas lever, it is necessary to install a special cable that will connect the motorbike lever to the engine from the chainsaw.

Using a conventional trimmer can replace the controller, but a fuse is necessary anyway.

In conclusion

Thus, it will be possible to get a great bike, the price of which will not hit your pocket. On this type of transport it will be possible to move anywhere: even in a large metropolis, even on rural roads. This is an indispensable transport for trips to the country house or apiary, a great option with which you can organize a long-awaited fishing trip. The low price is mainly due to the fact that all actions with the installation of parts are carried out independently.

This bike is also very manoeuvrable. It will bring a lot of pleasure to lovers, although there are drawbacks. The fact is that from now on you will have to be wary of yard dogs, who absolutely cannot stand the sound made by a motorbike.