Chainsaw engine decarbonization. Engine decarbonization: what is it for and how to do it

Drivers can be conditionally divided into two categories, the first category is drivers who know what engine decoking is, the second category includes those drivers who have not even heard of such a concept.

Who needs it

Engine decarbonization is directly related to the repair of a car engine, as well as an increase in its mileage to the KR, so if a driver has a soul for technology, a person likes to take care of his car, maintain it and repair it, then such a concept is not a novelty for him.

And, as a rule, such a driver drives either an old foreign car or a domestic car.

People who drive expensive foreign cars, who are accustomed to being serviced only in car services, and who know only one action for car maintenance, which is to give the ignition key to an auto mechanic, are hardly familiar with engine decarbonization, and are unlikely to ever want to understand this topic.

Therefore, our article is more focused on ordinary drivers and we hope that it will be useful for them.

Definition

Engine decoking is understood as the removal of deposits in it in the form of coke or soot, which gradually appear on the surface of its parts during operation over a certain period of time.

The reason for this phenomenon lies in the specifics of the operation of the engine itself and its operating modes.

Everyone knows the specifics of the operation of any internal combustion engine, this is the use of fuels and lubricants in the form of fuel and oil during its operation.

The source of carbon deposits in the engine are gasoline, diesel fuel and oil.

Causes of engine coking

The main source of coking in an engine is oil, followed by fuel.

The main ways for oil to penetrate into the combustion chamber are micro-slits in the oil scraper rings, through which the oil gets into this chamber, settles there on the walls of the cylinders, and gradually cokes under the influence of high temperatures.

The better the engine oil and the newer the engine, the slower this process.

Fuel mainly enters the combustion chamber through the intake valve stems, flows into it at the moment the piston draws the air-fuel mixture into the cylinders.

There is very little such fuel, but over time, this also affects the coking of the engine.

used engine

Above, an example with a new engine was considered. When a car already has a significant mileage of 90 - 100 thousand km, not only the oil scraper rings wear out, but the entire cylinder-piston group, respectively, the process of coke formation in the engine accelerates.

Do not forget about the gas distribution mechanism, a similar situation.

As a rule, the symptomatology of all this is manifested in the appearance of smoke with a special smell from the exhaust pipe and oily spark plugs. Here you can safely say not "God help", but "A good minder to help."

In order to draw the right conclusions on your own, pay attention to such important points:

1. Oil consumption > 300 gr. at 1000 km, while the mileage of the domestic car did not exceed 100,000 km, foreign cars 200,000;
2. Oil seals let oil through (signs - oil on the thread of the candles, with a sharp regassing, the exhaust pipe smokes.

The oil seals are just changing. But the first time you do it yourself is better not to do it.

Other causes of engine coking:

1. Frequent overheating of the engine (the reasons may be different) - more details;
2. The engine idling very often;
3. Constant urban cycle of car operation;
4. Using low-quality engine oil or oil that is not suitable for the type of engine;
5. Long-term parking of a car without operation (penalty area, parking in winter, after an accident, long-term repairs, etc.).

Cylinder piston group

Let's take a closer look at the CPG.

When the cylinder-piston group of the engine is worn out, then you have two ways, or to overhaul it with a complete replacement of pistons, rings, etc. or by decarbonizing the engine, to extend its operation by several tens of thousands of kilometers of the car.

It can be 50, 60.70 thousand km of additional mileage, before the overhaul of the engine, depending on the complexity of the problem.

If you do not decarbonize

As noted above, the purpose of engine decoking is the maximum elimination of coked and soot-covered parts of its cylinder-piston group.

The most important parts are pistons, compression and oil scraper rings and grooves under them.

Soot, which is formed in the grooves under the rings, does not allow them to be tightly in place and fit snugly against the cylinder walls, and this leads to the impossibility of high-quality removal of oil from the cylinder walls.

From a large ingress of oil into the combustion chamber, the amount of carbon deposits in the cylinders increases in direct proportion, and in the future, the rings simply lie.

Therefore, if you have not yet decided on a complete overhaul of the engine, but want your car to “run”, you will have to decoke the engine.

Getting Started

There are two main ways to perform such work, and both methods involve the use of special chemicals and additives, but different technological processes. There are other ways, but they are more complicated, and we will not consider them.

First way

It involves pouring a special chemical composition into the cylinders in order to loosen carbon deposits and then remove it from there.

Filling occurs through spark plugs or through nozzles. This method helps very well when the rings are completely coked and there is a problem with starting the engine.

Preferably before decoking.

Work order:

1. We warm up the engine to 70 - 90 degrees;
2. We unscrew the spark plugs, if the diesel engine, then the nozzles;
3. We jack up the drive wheels (do not forget to put the "shoes" under the wheels);
4. Turn on the last gear;
5. We rotate the drive wheel and ensure that the pistons are approximately in the middle position (you can use a long screwdriver for diagnostics);
6. We fill each cylinder with about 25 - 80 ml (depending on the volume of the cylinder) of special "auto chemicals" for decoking, many recommend LAVR ML-202, there are other options;
7. Screw back the candles;
8. Wait 60 - 120 minutes. During this time, a chemical reaction of the interaction of autochemistry with soot and its further decomposition takes place. In order to speed up the process and achieve the best result, every 20 minutes turn the drive wheel to the right and left by 15 degrees, making 5 strokes in each direction. This will help the liquid to penetrate the rings better. In the future, for a better result and if the case is very severe, the car can be left overnight;
9. We unscrew the spark plugs or nozzles;
10. Using a syringe, pump out the remaining dirty liquid from each cylinder;
11. We de-energize;
12. We put a clean rag on the candle holes;
13. We check for jacking up the drive wheels and whether the last gear is on;
14. We turn the engine with a starter for 10 seconds and “expel” the remaining dirty liquid from the cylinders;
15. We install the old candles back, connect the power to the ignition and start the car.

The car will be difficult to start and this is normal. Also, do not be afraid of the nasty smell of exhaust gases. Run without load for up to 10 minutes and try to drive.

As a rule, acrid smoke will still be emitted up to 20 km. After a run of 20 km, replace the old candles with new ones.

After 40 - 50 km of run, be sure to change the oil, since this is no longer the same oil that was before decoking, and it will negatively affect the condition of the rubber products of the engine, which will soon be corroded by the "auto chemicals" that got into the oil.

And after 200 - 300 km of run, re-measure the compression and compare it with the previous measurements (the rings will just disperse).

The readings may not differ much, but the main thing is that there should not be a large spread in the compression readings of each cylinder. Also, after 300 km, start monitoring oil consumption.

The disadvantages of this method:

1. You have to change the engine oil, and these are additional costs;
2. Replacing old candles with new ones is also an expense;
3. High chance of burst rings. This applies to rings that have stuck or have been heavily coked. After the work done, they get more mobility and the metal does not withstand;
4. Time is running out.

The second way to decoke the engine

This method is less time-consuming, less financially costly and does not take time at all. The greater efficiency of this method compared to the first is debatable, but it all depends on the drug used.

Recently, engine decoking has become a widely discussed procedure. This procedure is widely discussed in the circles of motorists. In this regard, the question arises: is the engine decoking procedure useful at all? As a result, it turns out that opinions may differ, since no one will give a hundred percent guarantee about improving the engine. Each motor has its own diseases, and because of this, each motor requires an individual approach to treatment.

Thus, decarbonization is a preventive procedure that allows you to keep the engine in good condition for a longer period, and not a means of its complete resuscitation and complete renewal.

Decarbonization is inherently a fairly simple procedure. However, there are some rules that you need to know before you get started. If the motor is "sick" and not completely "killed", then you can always try to cure it. If the motor is healthy, with a solid mileage, it is necessary to “drink vitamins” for prevention.

1. Decoking of the engine - the nature of pollution

Often, the category of drivers who need to decoke a diesel engine turns to a car service. This is due directly to the fact that when removing diesel injectors, difficulties arise. In most cases, however, a positive outcome is achieved. However, there are situations when decarbonization, which was carried out incorrectly, may necessitate an overhaul of the engine.

Initially, in order for this procedure to be successful and effective enough, you need to know exactly the reasons for the formation of soot. Often the main reason for the appearance of soot is the use of poor quality fuel. Because of this, carbon deposits form in the combustion chamber itself, created from unburned fuel residues.

The same happens with those valves that simply burn out for this reason. Piston rings, due to various kinds of additives, are overgrown with deposits that increase the octane number of the fuel.

As a result, compression drops in the cylinders themselves, which can reduce engine power. Also noticeable is a poor start, as well as excessive consumption of fuel and oil. As a result of all this, the wear of the entire piston group is accelerated. That is why most motorists are faced with the question of how to properly decoke the engine.

2. Means for decoking the engine - methods of dealing with soot

In the modern world, there are two most common ways to carry out the engine decarbonization procedure: hard and soft. Both methods have both positive and negative sides. In addition to these methods, one cannot but pay attention to new methods, which are based on the chemical industry - there are special liquids that can clean the engine at the time of its direct operation.

Thus, the motorist himself can choose which method to choose and use in order to improve the performance of his main unit. Below, all the positive aspects, as well as the negative ones, of these types of wheel alignment - soft and hard, will be indicated, since this is necessary for a wide knowledge of the car owner.

3. Liquid for decoking the engine

In the modern world, there is a special fluid that is used directly to decoke the engine. It allows you to perform the decarbonization procedure while the car is moving. It is necessary to fill it into the fuel tank of the car, and from there it will enter the combustion chamber along with the fuel. Thus, there will be a complete burnout of all deposits existing there, and the remains of these deposits will come out through the exhaust system.

This method is the most economical and simple. It does not require special tools and skills. And the most successful is that this method is the most effective of all known to date.

The soft and hard deboxing methods are also effective. The principle is quite similar and similar to the one above, but, as always, there are certain differences that allow one method to dominate the other, attracting more people to use it.

Since the whole process of decarbonizing can be carried out by yourself and all methods are suitable for this procedure alone, they will be described in the next paragraph of the plan.

4. How to decoke the engine yourself

It has already been mentioned above that there are two main ways of decarbonizing an engine: “soft” and “hard”. Due to the rapid development of automotive technology, a third method has emerged, which is the most effective and least expensive of the proposed ones.

If soft cleaning is used, special tools are used for this procedure, which allow cleaning only piston rings. The addition of this agent to the oil is carried out somewhere 200 km before its planned replacement. During this period, the engine is operated in light mode, so heavy loads should be avoided.

After this point, it is imperative to change the engine oil. There is a significant drawback of this method: cleaning occurs only for the piston rings, while the valves and the combustion chamber are not cleaned. Based on this, such a partial decarbonization does not lead to an excellent result, but can serve as an easy kind of help for the engine.

Also, most of the preparations used for this decarbonization are traditional fluids for flushing the oil system, and, as you know, cleaning components are added to them to remove carbon deposits.

Thus, there is a certain overpayment, since all the necessary elements exist in conventional preparations, which are much cheaper and, possibly, of better quality than those offered. And yet, this type of decarbonization is desirable to use for prevention, since it is in no way suitable for a complete treatment of the engine. It can be used at every oil change.

The old and proven "grandfather method" is the most common. This method is called "hard decarbonization". The essence of this process is also quite simple. First you need to put the car in a horizontal position, after which the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature.

At this point, you need to unscrew the candles or remove the nozzles. It is necessary to turn the crankshaft and, using a screwdriver, set the pistons to the middle position. In each cylinder, you need to pour "nuclear" auto chemicals directly into the combustion chamber. After that, you need to leave it there for a certain time (up to 12 hours) to soften the soot. The engine must be warmed up to enhance the procedure, since in this case the effect of a “steam bath” will be created, the soot will soften significantly. In this case, it is desirable to close the candle wells, slightly making candles.

This is done so that the engine cools down longer, while the ignition must be turned off. After this procedure, it is necessary to unscrew the candles, and by scrolling the crankshaft from the combustion chamber with a starter, remove all the cleaning fluid that has not leaked into the crankcase. Candle holes can be covered with rags, so that not much dirt scatters and smears the entire engine compartment. After that, having twisted the candles, you need to start the engine and let it run at different speeds, or drive about 50 km. After that, it is imperative to change the oil.

With this type of procedure, there are many obvious disadvantages: efficiency depends entirely on the chosen auto chemical goods and on the type of engine; the problem is not always completely removed, sometimes it is possible to remove only soot; autochemistry of this kind is very toxic; it is recommended to carry out only in warm weather conditions; it is difficult to calculate how much liquid needs to be poured into each cylinder and where the middle position of the piston is.

Since a lot of words have already been said about liquid decaking of the engine, it makes no sense to talk more about it, since it is the leader in all respects among its counterparts in this type of work.

October 6, 2017

Information about cleaning the engine from carbon deposits (otherwise - decarbonization) will be useful to those motorists who constantly operate one car for a long time and try to service it on their own. This procedure is rather preventive in nature, although in some cases it allows you to reanimate the power unit and extend the mileage before overhaul by 5–20 thousand km. How do-it-yourself engine decarbonization is performed and what means are used for this, read in this publication.

Where does soot come from and where does it accumulate?

The cleaning procedure is not a panacea and does not always help, and sometimes gives the exact opposite effect. To use the technique correctly and on time, you need to understand the cause of the formation of deposits and the consequences of this phenomenon.

The cylinder-piston (CPG) and valve group of the internal combustion engine operates under difficult conditions - at high pressure and temperature. Over time, the rubbing surfaces of the parts wear out, and the seals lose their tightness, which is why engine oil begins to penetrate into the combustion chambers. Combustion conditions for the air-fuel mixture deteriorate as the lubricant burns out and forms a hard coating on all accessible surfaces:

• piston skirts and chamber walls - in the first place;
• the side surfaces of the pistons in contact with the walls of the cylinders;
• the front planes of the valves and their inner surfaces adjacent to the seats;
• grooves for piston rings and holes for draining liquid lubricant (located deep in the groove of the oil scraper ring).

At the same time, the electrodes of the spark plugs are covered with soot, which reduces the quality of sparking.

When the amount of lubricant penetrating into the cylinder becomes critical, black coke clogs all possible slots and holes. Because of this, the rings get stuck in the grooves (in jargon - lie down), which is why the real compression in the cylinders drops by 50-90%. The valve burnt from the side of the saddle will not close hermetically, and then the compression pressure will drop completely to zero - the cylinder will completely fail. The consequences can be prevented if the engine is decarbonized in time.

When to decoke the engine?

The procedure gives a positive result when performed in a timely manner. You can’t drag it out too much - just waste your money, because chemicals are expensive. When decarbonization becomes useless:

1. When driving for a long time with high oil consumption. If the motor "devours" 1 liter of lubricant per 1000 kilometers or more, and you do not take any action for 2-4 months, then get ready to do a major overhaul. Soot will clog the rings and oil drain holes so much that chemistry will not help, only mechanical cleaning.
2. If the compression in one or two cylinders has dropped to zero. This indicates burnt valves that the cleaner will not take.
3. If noise and knocking occurs in the motor, requiring immediate replacement of parts.

You can perform decarbonization at your own risk, but with these symptoms, the chances of success are extremely low. Sometimes the opposite effect is observed - after cleaning, the compression in the motor drops and further driving becomes impossible, the engine loses a lot of power.

The reason for the phenomenon is the same soot. Covering all available surfaces, coke begins to serve as a sealant instead of piston rings and, together with the lubricant, creates an increased pressure in the chamber, sufficient to ignite the fuel mixture (the so-called oil compression). After cleaning, the sealing deposits disappear, and the pressure in the cylinders drops due to wear of the CPG elements. The motor refuses to work.

Practice shows that a special engine decoking fluid should be used at a motor lubricant consumption of 0.3–0.5 liters per 1 thousand kilometers. At this moment, intensive deposits of soot begin, but irreversible consequences have not yet occurred. If valve seals became the culprits of the oil "zhora", then after the procedure they can be changed and driven over 20 thousand km, provided that the CPG is in satisfactory condition.

Choice of cleaning agent

In automotive stores and markets, there are a wide variety of chemicals declared by manufacturers as effective cleaners of coke parts of power units. Which of them are used most often and have earned a positive reputation:

• Mitsubishi Shuma;
• Gzox;
• BJ-211;
• Lavr.

The first 2 preparations are a liquid in an aerosol package with a capacity of 220 and 300 ml, respectively, pumped into the cylinders through a tube. The remaining two funds are poured with a syringe. As a rule, one package - a spray can or a bottle - is enough to service one four-cylinder engine with a working volume of up to 1.6 liters. Higher power engines with 6-12 cylinders will need 2-3 tanks.

A few words about the best way to clean the engine. The undisputed leader is the Mitsubishi Shumma tool, tested in practice by many master minders. There is only one drawback - the price of the drug is too high (about 30 USD per can). An alternative is the GZox aerosol, which shows similar results for half the cost. BJ-211 and Lavr fluids close the list of the best cleaners on the automotive chemical market.

Advice. You should not use the old “old-fashioned” methods to decoke the engine of a modern car by pouring a mixture of acetone with solvent (kerosene) and other ineffective liquids into the cylinders. They act too slowly and poorly dissolve carbon deposits.

Preparation for soot removal

Before decoking the cylinder-piston group of the engine, it is necessary to thoroughly prepare. First of all, allocate time - the whole procedure takes 8-15 hours. The exact exposure time is indicated on the packaging of the liquid cleaner. It is advisable to adjust the operation by the time the oil is changed, since part of the dissolved coke will drain into the crankcase and the lubricant will have to be changed in any case.

To decoke a worn motor yourself, you should prepare the following materials and spare parts:

• cleaning agent;
• engine oil and filter;
• new spark plugs;
• bolts - plugs suitable for threading instead of lambda probes.

There is no need to create special conditions for work, it is enough to have a flat area near the house or a garage. From the equipment it is desirable to have a compressor, but you can do without it.

The preparatory stage includes the following operations:

1. Warm up the power unit to a temperature of 60-70 ° C, necessary to activate most cleaners.
2. Unscrew the oxygen sensors from the exhaust tract and install the plugs from the bolts. The goal is to protect expensive electronic components from clogging and soot.
3. Support the vehicle with wheel chocks and raise either drive wheel.

Instructions for decarbonizing

When warming up the power unit before cleaning, it is worth pouring a “five-minute” flushing compound into the crankcase in order to remove dirt from the oil channels as much as possible. You should also measure the compression on a hot engine in advance, this will help you see the result before and after decoking.

Follow the next steps in this order:

1. Carefully read the instructions on the cleaning agent package and find out how much fluid to fill in each cylinder of your engine.
2. Remove the spark plugs and clean them thoroughly with a metal brush, wash with gasoline and blow.
3. Turning the drive wheel by hand in 5th gear, set all pistons to the middle position, measuring the depth with a long screwdriver.
4. Lowering the tube alternately into the candle holes, fill the cylinders with an aerosol from a can. Decarbonization of the Lavrom engine is carried out using a syringe (comes with the preparation).
5. Screw the spark plugs back in without tightening them all the way.
6. Hold for 8-15 hours, periodically moving the crankshaft by turning the wheel. The goal is to help fluid penetrate between the piston rings.

After the time specified in the instructions, unscrew the candles again and try to pump out the dissolved dirt from the cylinders with a syringe, and then blow it thoroughly with a compressor. The better you can clean out the remaining coke, the faster the engine will start.

Install the old spark plugs and start the engine without increasing the speed above 1500 rpm. Let it warm up and "spit out" pieces of soot through the exhaust tract. After 10-15 minutes of engine operation, when the smoke from the exhaust decreases, return the lambda probes to their place and proceed to replace the engine lubricant.

Screw in new spark plugs last, when you clean the power unit and change the oil. Before installing the candles, re-measure the compression and verify the positive effect of the event. If the result is negative, start preparing for disassembly and overhaul of the motor.

Decarbonization of a diesel engine differs in the way the cylinders are filled with a chemical agent. Since there are no spark plugs, fluid is poured through the nozzle holes. The latter will have to be dismantled, having previously relieved the fuel pressure in the system and turned off the pump.

Decoking the engine is best done in a timely manner. In many cases, it makes it possible not to bring the engine to a major overhaul, which is not cheap. Decarbonization, in fact, is its cleaning from carbon deposits that occur during operation. Drivers who own cars with high mileage face such a problem. The quality of the lubricants and fuels used also greatly affects the condition of the engine. Therefore, you should not save when choosing oils and fuel for refueling a car, as this will lead to expensive repairs.

The need for engine decoking

This process consists in cleaning carbon deposits from the grooves of the piston rings. Such work may be carried out in a variety of ways and may be total or partial. The need for decarbonization is determined by some signs in the operation of the motor:

• The appearance of dense black or gray smoke.
• Significant increase in fuel consumption.
• Problems with starting the engine.
• Reduced motor power.

The main reason for the appearance of soot in the fuel chamber and on the valves is the long-term operation of the engine at low speeds, with prolonged and frequent standing in city traffic jams. Driving with an insufficiently warmed-up engine, using low-quality engine oil or fuel will lead to the same result. Nagar occurs due to the partial combustion of the combustible mixture, then the situation is complicated by the action of carbonaceous particles in the exhaust gases. A lot of soot is formed due to coking of the engine.

When these symptoms occur, many auto repair shops recommend overhauling the motor, which is an expensive and difficult job.

If decarbonization is carried out, then often this helps to restore the normal operation of the motor and solve other problems. Such work will cost much less, and will require less time.

Decarbonization is not a solution to absolutely all problems, but only makes it possible to partially extend the engine's performance. It is usually customary to perform such work in the fall or spring to prepare the car for the change of season. Previously, drivers usually did this work themselves. Currently, drivers of modern cars most often use the services of car service specialists. This is more due to the emergence of new models of motors, in which it is difficult to get to the injectors or spark plugs.

The following parameters depend on the condition of the oil scraper rings:

• The level of harmfulness of exhaust gases.
• Engine fuel and oil consumption.
• The power of the power unit.

Each element of the engine plays an important role in its operation, so it is necessary to regularly check the performance of the oil scraper rings.

The main purpose of oil scraper rings is to remove heat from the piston. If heat is not removed, this will lead to negative consequences on which the operation of the engine will depend, it may jam. The consequences may be burnout and scuffing of the pistons. In addition to heat removal, the combustion chamber is sealed and the moving parts in the cylinder are lubricated, which prevents overheating of the parts during friction and their rapid wear.

Given today's prices for spare parts, it will be much cheaper to periodically check the condition of the rings than to replace the piston group.

Before considering malfunctions and methods of ring decoking, you should familiarize yourself with the design features of the oil scraper rings. One-piece rings are rarely used on modern cars, and some models have ceased to be produced. The increased rigidity makes them inapplicable for high-quality removal of oil from the cylinder, since the rings do not adhere well to the surface.

Now mainly rings are produced, consisting of several parts. Three-piece rings include two steel plates and coiled springs. They are most often used on gasoline engines. Among all the advantages, one can note its best fit to the surface of the cylinder over its entire area. The design of rings, consisting of two elements, includes a ring and a spring. The good flexibility of the spring allows the ring to fit well on the cylinder. The density of the spring ensures the integrity of the entire structure.

Causes of coking rings

During engine operation, the combustible mixture burns out partially, which contributes to the accumulation of combustion products in the cylinder cavity. Using low-quality fuel, piston rings coke much faster. The quality of the engine oil also affects the coking of the rings.

1. Breakage of oil seals leads to the penetration of engine oil into the combustion chamber. In this case, the valve stem seals should be replaced, which will significantly increase the compression of the motor, as a result of which its power will increase.
2. Piston ring coking causes oil to enter the cylinders. When the oil burns, carbon deposits are formed, leading to a decrease in compression.

To solve such problems in the distribution network, there are various specialized tools that can be purchased at car dealerships. They are called decokers.

Piston rings work in intensive mode, which causes their wear. Standard rings wear out after 200 thousand kilometers, but with proper engine operation, a new set of rings can last for 500 thousand km. The quality of engine oil and the refusal to change it negatively affect the condition of the piston rings, and can lead to piston grooves. When driving frequently in dusty areas, the air filter and fuel filter must be in good condition. To do this, it is necessary to periodically inspect the filters.

There are many signs that determine the need to replace the rings or repair the engine:

• Dirty spark plugs.
• Gaskets and seals turned black from oil, although they were recently replaced.
• The formation of blue smoke when starting the car from a place.
• Oil consumption has increased significantly.

If one of the signs of wear appears, you should first check the condition of the piston rings. To check the valve stem seals, it is necessary to disconnect the engine ventilation pipe. If there is a high pressure in the crankcase, this means that the valve stem seals are worn out, which requires their immediate replacement.

Engine decoking methods

• Partial decoking. Experts call this method soft. Before changing engine oil, a special agent is added to its composition. Then the oil is poured into the engine and they drive some distance without loading the engine too much. It is not recommended to drive at high speeds. After 200 km the oil is changed. This is a simple and inexpensive way. In this case, only certain parts of the engine are cleaned, and the combustion chamber is not cleaned. This is more of a preventive measure when changing the oil.
• Full decoking. This method is tough, and allows you to clean the engine with the highest quality. However, doing this work takes a lot of time. The machine must be installed on a lift or on a pit in a horizontal position. The engine is warmed up to operating parameters.

There are many different ways of decoking the engine that are used at service stations. We will consider the most popular and reliable method - complete decarbonization.

1. Before decoking, the engine should be warmed up to operating temperature.
2. Unscrew the candles.
3. Raise the drive wheel with a jack and shift into a higher gear. Next, you need to rotate the wheel until the pistons are in the middle position. You can use a screwdriver to determine their position.
4. In this case, we will use a tool called "SURM". It is used by many masters, and is considered quite effective. It is necessary to draw 25 milligrams of this agent into the syringe and inject it into the cylinder through the spark plug mounting hole. This process is done for each cylinder.
5. After pouring the product, you must wait 15 minutes for the soot to dissolve. During this time, you need to turn the wheel a little so that the liquid penetrates to the rings. The wheel turns every three minutes. Extra turns in this case are not required.
6. Disconnect the middle wire of the distributor and fix its contacts at a distance of a few mm from the engine housing. This will keep the ignition coil from malfunctioning.
7. Engage neutral speed and crank the starter for about 10 seconds. So it is necessary to force the flushing agent out of the cylinders. This is a very important point, since the presence of liquid in the cylinders when starting the engine can lead to water hammer, which in turn will lead to damage to engine parts.
8. Install the spark plugs and start the engine. At first, the exhaust gases will emit an unpleasant odor, but this will quickly pass.

The engine should run at idle for about 15 minutes. After that, you can start moving. After driving 200 kilometers, you can check the oil consumption by comparing the new readings with the old ones, the difference should be obvious.

Decarbonizers

If soot occurs in the cylinders, it should be removed quickly. For this procedure, various chemicals are used. The most effective way is to pour a special chemical reagent into the engine cylinder.

Such methods are the simplest, but experts do not recommend them for use. However, many car owners use this simple method by adding the purchased product to fuel or oil. Often this method gives results.

SURM fluid is the most commonly used, as it has been proven to be effective for a long time. The product is domestic, so it is not difficult to purchase it at any auto supply store. Its main advantage is that after decoking, no oil change is required.

There are other means that are no less effective, but after them you need to change the oil to a new one, and this requires additional financial costs.

Using the domestic tool SURM, we get:

• Reducing the amount of harmful exhaust gases.
• Reduced consumption of engine oil and fuel.
• Increasing engine power.

Modern developments of scientists compete with each other, giving great opportunities for the buyer. All chemical reagents have their own parameters and features, by price, composition, method of application.

Each chemical has instructions for use, so we will consider brief parameters and properties of popular decarbonizers.

• Lavr ML-202 is a Russian product, one of the most widely used chemicals for cleaning piston rings. A great option that gives good results for a small price. Used as Hado for preventive purposes. It normalizes compression, cleans rings and grooves, as well as the walls of combustion chambers. Getting into the cylinder, the liquid passes into a vaporous state, and in 1 hour cleans the carbon deposits.
• Liquid Molly OiI-Schlamm-Spulung is practically an effective additive for the lubrication system. Tests have not confirmed its sufficient effectiveness.
• "Vince" - an agent that cleans the intake manifold, regulates compression, cleans the grooves of the piston rings, provides the necessary mobility of the valves and removes vibration. It requires special tools to use. Gives good results when all requirements of the instruction are met.
• "Hado Anticox" shows very high results in all characteristics, but it has a high price.

If you have little experience in car maintenance, and you are not sure of the success of the decarbonization of the rings, then it is better to contact a car repair shop.

For a long time, an old effective method has been used, the secrets of which we will share here. For this, a simple tool is prepared, consisting of two components: kerosene and acetone. Their ratios can vary depending on desire, but most often three parts of acetone and one part of kerosene are used. Some home masters say that you need to add more oil, but in this case there will be no benefit from it. The amount of funds received is taken 300 grams for the entire engine.

After preparing a special tool, you can start decarbonizing. First remove the spark plugs. In this case, the engine must be warm. Pour this prepared mixture into the cylinders. On a hot engine, such a procedure is prohibited, since acetone can boil at elevated temperatures, which will lead to splashing out and getting on the body paintwork and chemical-sensitive places.

Next, the candles are put in place and wait about 12 hours. Then the candles are unscrewed again, and the starter is turned for 15-20 seconds to expel excess fluid from the cylinders. If the candles are not unscrewed, then the candles will become very dirty.

Before starting the engine cranking with the starter with the candles removed, it is necessary to turn off the spark supply to the high-voltage wires by removing the central wire from the distributor or from the ignition coil.

When purging the cylinders, cover the motor with some material to protect the paintwork from getting corrosive liquid on them.

At the end of the whole process, you need to start the engine and drive a little at different speeds. At the same time, it is not recommended to drive near traffic police posts, as they may find the smoky exhaust suspicious. This procedure is carried out to consolidate the effect: pour new oil, preferably cheap, then immediately drain it. Replace oil filter. After that, you can enjoy riding in your car.

How to get rid of soot with water

Many skilled drivers have learned to use water to remove carbon deposits. This method is not inferior in efficiency to conventional standard methods with chemical reagents. Consider this original method in more detail.

Necessary materials

To perform this cheap method, you need to prepare the following materials:

• Medical dropper.
• Thin plastic or rubber hose.
• Two liters of distilled water.
• Tee for washer connection.

Distilled water must be prepared in a plastic bottle.

Procedure

1. Connect the hose from the distilled water bottle to the suction. To do this, it is convenient to use a dropper. If it was not possible to get distilled water, then you can use ordinary water, the dropper will filter it.
2. When the engine reaches a rotation speed of 2000 rpm, then you need to start supplying water.
3. Approximately two drops should be delivered per second. They enter the cylinder at idle, and are able to clean the carbon deposits.

As a result, carbon deposits will be cleaned, and the engine will work more dynamically and economically.

Features of decarbonization

Fuel in the modern period has improved significantly compared to the stagnant period. However, this does not protect the engine from the formation of carbon deposits on the piston rings. The situation is the same with motor oil: many drivers say that the oil in Soviet times was of very high quality. Maybe this is true, but today, not a single master will say that when it is used, carbon deposits are not formed in the cylinders. Due to the formation of persistent deposits, it is sometimes necessary to carry out major repairs anyway.

Myths about decarbonization

Cleaning rings and pistons in an engine always causes a lot of controversy among mechanics and drivers of all ages. Consider certain misconceptions that are often encountered.

1. If you use special additives for decoking piston rings, then the carbon deposits will disappear completely. This is an incorrect statement, since a complete cleaning requires the use of a very caustic concentrated agent that can corrode engine parts. Excessive engine cleanliness is not required for engine operation.
2. Decoking can be done on a cold engine. Warming up the motor before this process is mandatory, otherwise a positive result will not be achieved.
3. The principle of operation of cleaning agents for each brand of motor is different. This is also a delusion, since all repair work is carried out in the same way, in the usual manner. Therefore, it is not necessary to look for special tools for gasoline or diesel engines. The only limitation is that decarbonization cannot be carried out in winter.
4. The price for decokers is very high. Only beginners say so, chemicals are not expensive compared to the price of a motor overhaul. There are also many domestic manufacturers of piston ring cleaners, which are of good quality and low cost.
5. Only XADO and LAVR products are the only methods for cleaning the engine. This is an incorrect statement. Of course, such anticokes have a good effect on the condition of the engine cylinders, but such products can only be used for small conventional engines.
6. Modern motors do not require decoking. The operation of all automotive equipment takes place in various conditions, as well as in winter. This plays an important role in the occurrence of soot. Modern engines are no exception, and in this respect they do not differ from old engines.

There are chemicals that do not require you to remove the spark plugs. The most popular of them was Edial. The method of its application is simple: the agent is poured into the fuel tank before refueling.

How to protect the engine from soot

In order not to fight soot, it is better to try to prevent it. Spend a lot less money and save your nerves. To do this, you need to follow some recommendations:

• Apply special additives.
• Perform periodic oil changes.
• Warm up the engine before driving, especially in cold weather.
• Operate the car more often, and do not stand idle in traffic jams.
• Do not use driving style at low engine speeds.

If the car consumes oil and fuel above the set value, then decarbonization cannot be avoided - you need to apply one of the methods considered and put the car engine in order.

If the engine wear is very large, then decoking will no longer help, but only harm. The engine passes a large amount of gasoline, and it does not burn out. Unburned fuel and oil in the cylinder, as well as other substances, form deposits on the piston rings. But with slight wear, the life of the motor will be slightly extended. Often the question arises as to the choice of the decarbonization method. When you need to clean the engine from carbon deposits, then you should choose the method that is most convenient for you and fits the parameters.

We have considered a large number of ways to decoke motors, and you can easily choose the type of cleaning procedure you need.

Why is engine decoking done?

When fuel is burned in cylinders, persistent deposits and coke are inevitably formed, which:
· cover surfaces of pistons and valves;
clog the gaps in the grooves of the pistons and hinder the mobility of the oil scraper and compression piston rings (up to their "occurrence");
clog the oil channels in the pistons, preventing the lubrication of the piston pin;
clog the oil drain channels in the piston skirt, reducing the efficiency of the oil scraper piston rings.

As a result, the efficiency of the compression and oil scraper rings is reduced,
The compression in the cylinders is broken, and, as a result, the engine power drops;
Vibrations appear, including due to the resulting difference in the compression of different cylinders;
Increases the consumption of engine oil for waste;
increasing fuel consumption;
Significantly accelerates the wear of the cylinder-piston group (CPG).

Removal of contaminants as a result of engine skewing can normalize the operation of the CPG and extend the engine life.

Is it really worth it to decoke the engine?

The result of engine decoking is directly determined by three main factors:
The state of the engine and the "neglect" of deposits;
the effectiveness of the means used;
Adherence to efficient technology.

So what result can be expected with the correct use of a good remedy? Answer options 3:
Improvement (compression equalization across cylinders, improved throttle response, normalization of idling, reduced fuel and engine oil consumption, elimination of increased exhaust smoke);
No noticeable result (compression may even out somewhat);
deterioration (which is rare).

What predetermines the result of engine buckling? First of all, at what wear and stage of contamination the procedure is performed. There are three stages of pollution:
initial pollution, the negative impact of which is not clearly recorded;
medium level of pollution, which already negatively affects the operation of the engine and, at the same time, is still pliable to the action of the agent used;
· Persistent contamination that adversely affects the operation of the engine and is resistant to the used decarbonizing agent.

The transition from one stage to another is individual, depending on the design of the engine, the oil used, the spark plugs, and the operating mode. It can be carefully noted that the middle stage is from 100 to 180 thousand km, the third - from 200 thousand km. and more.

The result of decarbonization will be noticeable in the second stage, and not noticeable in the first and second.

At the same time, the use of engine decarbonization at the first stage (initial pollution with an imperceptible effect) is most useful as a means of preventing the above negative manifestations, prolonging the engine life with regular processing.

Decarbonization at an advanced stage of pollution is practically useless - a major overhaul is required with the analysis of the internal combustion engine and mechanical cleaning of persistent deposits. In this case, you can only get a cleaning of the surface of the pistons and, sometimes, some mobility of the compression rings. At the same time, “stuck” oil scraper rings and completely clogged oil channels in the piston will most likely not be cleaned, which means that the most significant goals will not be achieved.

It is also important to understand that the engine decoking fluid does not have a restoring effect in case of severe wear of metal friction pairs in the CPG, is not able to restore the elasticity and efficiency of valve seals. Even with a positive cleaning effect on the mobility of the piston rings after treatment, it is unlikely that a significant reduction in engine oil consumption can be noticed, because. such an expense may be caused by other, more significant factors.

It is necessary to perform such a procedure both in engines of previous generations, designed for engine oils of medium quality, and in modern internal combustion engines with their minimum clearances, high temperatures and loaded operating modes.

What result of engine decarbonization to expect

Decarbonization of the engine with an effective formula of active components, performed in a timely and regular manner:

• safely cleans the surface of the piston, piston rings, the surface of the combustion chamber and valves from carbon deposits;
• cleans the lubrication and oil drain channels from contamination in the piston;
• normalizes and equalizes compression in the cylinders;
• significantly increases the life of the engine.

As a result, a clearly felt and fixed result appears:

• the power characteristics of the engine and the dynamic characteristics of the car are restored;
• reduced engine oil consumption and exhaust smoke;
• slightly reduced fuel consumption;
• engine runs smoother and quieter.

It is also important to remember that the final normalization of engine operation after the procedures carried out may not be obtained immediately, but after some time of operation (after 200-300 km), after the final removal of the cleaning fluid and the release of the remnants of softened deposits, restoring the movement of engine oil.

How often to decarbonize the engine

Existing compositions are recommended to carry out decoking of the engine every 20-25 thousand kilometers, i.e. immediately before every second service with engine oil change. If the equipment works in difficult conditions, for which its manufacturer recommends reducing oil change intervals, then, accordingly, the engine should be balanced at intervals of 10-15 thousand kilometers.

Instructions for decoking the engine

Processing must be carried out in strict accordance with the instructions of the manufacturer of the product. In general, the process of do-it-yourself engine decoking is as follows:

• warm up the engine to operating temperature (at least 70 degrees Celsius);
• turn off the ignition system (for example, disconnect the ignition coil terminal or the central wire);
• turn off the electric fuel pump (by removing the appropriate fuse);
• dismantle spark plugs (glow plugs);
• set the pistons to a position close to the middle one by turning the crankshaft by the pulley nut or by the drive wheel raised by the jack with the last gear of the manual transmission engaged, or try with several attempts to “hit” by turning on the starter (the position of the pistons is determined by sticks of suitable length inserted into the holes for the candles);
• using a syringe with an extension flexible tube, pour an equal amount of engine decoking fluid into the cylinders;
• screw the candles in at least a few turns of thread to create a "steam bath" in the cylinders (from this stage, you can use used, but serviceable candles from the garage stock);
• pause according to the manufacturer's instructions;
• while maintaining a pause, periodically move the pistons slightly, rotating the crankshaft by 10-15 degrees 5 times in both directions in the above ways to apply forces to the piston rings, which should contribute to the penetration of fluid to contamination, the release of the rings from the "occurrence" and the release of contaminants from the grooves in the pistons;
• unscrew the candles;
• remove the remaining dirty liquid from the cylinders by pumping them out with a flexible tube and syringe;
• add 1-2 cm3 of engine oil to each cylinder (in the area of ​​the piston rings) with a separate syringe to restore the washed off oil film in order to ensure normal compression to facilitate engine start;
• cover the holes for the candles with a thick cloth to catch splashes;
• turn on the ignition and rotate the engine shaft 2-3 times for 5 seconds;
• remove fabric and drips, paying special attention to candle wells;
• screw in used spark plugs (glow plugs) from the garage stock, connect the ignition system and the electric fuel pump;
• start the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes until the operating temperature is reached (in this case, a short smoke is possible due to the burning out of the drug residues and deposits);
• fill in the engine quick flush preparation, if its use is recommended by the manufacturer of the decoking fluid, let the engine run according to the instructions, turn off the internal combustion engine;
• change the engine oil and oil filter;
• replace the candles with the main ones (immediately or, better, after 200-300 km of run).

The skew of a diesel engine is practically the same as shown, except that, given the design, it is sometimes better to unscrew not the glow plugs, but the injection nozzles in order to work through the holes for them.

Decoking the engine with your own hands is not very difficult, as can be seen from the description. However, it is still necessary to have minimal locksmith skills and knowledge of the design.

Possible difficulties and negative consequences of engine decoking

Negative results with the correct selection of funds and adherence to technology are usually determined by excessive wear. Removed deposits can open increased gaps and compression in the cylinders will decrease, and noise will increase.

After processing, it may be difficult to start the engine for the first time due to the following reasons:
liquid residues in the cylinders (it is recommended to remove them by suction using a syringe with a flexible hose);
Washing off the oil film that provides the necessary compression (it is recommended to add quite a bit of engine oil to the cylinders in the area of ​​the piston rings - just really a little, so as not to “kill” the engine with water hammer at startup, since oil does not compress as a liquid);
Weak battery, the charge of which was used for scrolling in the process (before processing it is recommended to check the battery, if necessary, charge it or take care of the presence of a starter charger or backup battery).

Increased smoke immediately after the first start is not actually a negative consequence, because. passes quickly.

Of course, a certain number of difficulties can be caused by violations of the technology recommended by the manufacturer and errors in the performance of work - inattention when connecting disconnected wires, etc.

Separately, we pay attention to the fact that during processing, the aggressive liquid of the decarbonizer penetrates into the engine crankcase and mixes with engine oil. It is impossible to operate a car with such a mixture, because. this is fraught with negative consequences. Manufacturers of funds directly indicate this in the instructions. Here lies a practical nuance: the procedure for direct decoking of the engine has its own duration, in fact, many car owners do not have the opportunity to find the car in the service all this time on the spot, where you can immediately perform a subsequent oil change. And the question arises: is it possible to directly rake in a place convenient for you (in front of the house or in your garage), and then drive the car to the service station for an oil change? Taking into account the fact that in the instructions for some drugs, manufacturers recommend warming up the engine to operating temperature at the stage of flushing after cutting, we can make a reasonable conclusion that a short run is possible without negative consequences. But it is still impossible to operate the car and perform a long haul without changing the oil after processing.

Conclusion

Timely periodic decoking of the engine may not be noticeable by visible signs, but with the use of effective preparations it is an effective means of cleaning continuously accumulating contaminants and a real way to extend the life of the internal combustion engine and ensure its normal operation. It is recommended to carry out the treatment approximately before every second MOT with a change in engine oil.

Decoking the engine gives a visible effect only when the pollution has already negatively affected the operation of the engine, but they are still malleable and can be removed by the selected agent.

Decoking of the engine does not restore excessive wear of the parts of the cylinder-piston group, therefore, with critical wear and stuck piston rings, it is more reasonable to give preference to a major overhaul with mechanical cleaning of persistent contaminants on those parts that can still be used.