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How to make bulletproof glass. Pros and cons of armoring a windshield with a film What you need to consider when buying an armored window

In the matter of organizing security, whether it be a special car or a cash desk in a bank, a special bulletproof glass plays an important role. After all, people's lives sometimes depend on its resistance to aggressive influences, including firearms. But not all glass, being protective, can be called bulletproof.

In order not to draw undue attention to such glasses and not to focus the attention of others on its increased strength, appearance protective glasses should not differ from ordinary ones. It should demonstrate its exceptional properties only in the case of a direct impact on it: not allowing the bullet fired from the weapon to pierce it through.

CREATION OF PROTECTIVE GLASSES

The idea of ​​creating protective glass with ultra-strong properties was born in the head of the Frenchman Edouard Benedictus back in 1910 of the last century. During the experiments, he placed different numbers of sheets of special cellulose film between two ordinary panes of glass. This greatly added strength to the multilayer structure. He called his product Triplex, and his method of producing bulletproof glass is now called lamination.

Despite the fact that the French inventor made his first designs of resistant glasses mainly by hand, today it is difficult to imagine the production technology without the use of modern high-precision equipment and complex polymeric materials.

TYPES OF PROTECTIVE GLASSES

Depending on the purpose, protective glasses are made in various thicknesses, from seven millimeters to seventy-five. In fact, the thickness of the finished product determines its strength class. A typical technology for the manufacture of such products is the use of ordinary sheet glasses, between which layers of liquid polycarbonate are poured - a durable type of plastic. A bullet fired into such glass, gradually, layer by layer, passing through numerous layers, simply loses its energy and, ultimately, stops.

There are also some modifications of protective glasses. So, for example, in some special vehicles One-sided protective glass is widely used. A special polymer is integrated into it, thanks to which the design withstands aggressive impact only from one side, from the outside. This allows people who are attacked from the street to fire back with their weapons without getting out of the car. At the same time, modern equipment easily allows the glass to take the desired shape and bends, for installation in a regular car opening.

The production of laminated protective glasses is very expensive and complex in terms of manufacturing technology. Such products with a quality mark are made on high-precision modern equipment using CNC machines.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that glasses that are ideal in their strength simply do not exist. Each class of glass is guaranteed to save only from a certain threshold of exposure. And in any case, there is a preventive force that can destroy even the highest quality and most resistant bulletproof glass.


How is bulletproof glass made? Interested in the production technology of bulletproof glass!

The history of bulletproof glass began in 1910, when the French scientist Edouard Benedictus invented a method for producing extra strong glass by placing a special celluloid film between two glass sheets. Such glass, now known as laminated glass, was patented by Benedictus under the name "triplex". However, do not expect to sit behind bulletproof glass during a serious shelling. Absolute armor that protects against all firearms simply does not exist, especially armor made of glass ...

Triplex is the most reliable and safe glass. Over the century that has passed since the Frenchman made his landmark invention, the glass industry has gone far ahead, and now the triplex manufacturing technology is approximately the following. Two sheets of tempered glass are glued to each other over the entire surface with a polymer film or a laminating liquid. (By the way, she herself worked at the Macromer Research and Production Enterprise in the production of such a liquid - indeed Gin is right, this is Acrolat: http://www.macromer.ru /him.shtml?base=5&...) Moreover, sheets can be made of glass, either one or different types, can be straight or bent (they are shaped before gluing). Lamination itself is a rather complicated process, it is carried out on an automated line in several stages. At the last stage, the glass sheets enter the autoclave, where high temperature the film polymerizes and, like glue, connects the glass. As a result, the impact strength of conventional triplex is 10–15 times higher than that of conventional sheet glass. If the triplex still manages to be broken or pierced by a bullet, the fragments will not splash in all directions - they will hang on the intermediate film without causing harm. Such laminated glass looks like a monolith.
However, a polymer film can glue not two glasses, but more. But a three-layer triplex is still considered the best option - further addition of layers significantly increases the cost of the product, although, of course, the protective properties also increase. But by and large, it makes sense to use multilayer triplexes only where there is a serious threat to human life or to material and museum values.

But safety can be ensured not only by the use of triplex. There is also alternative way hardening and protection of glass in buildings glass structures - gluing window films on ordinary high-quality glass.
Professional window films (such as US Courtaulds Performance Films), when applied to glass, avoid the risk of splintering. Glass reinforced with such a film successfully withstands even a shock blast wave - and if it is damaged, it will remain in the frame or fall out in a whole piece without scattering into sharp fragments.

The US Air Force is testing a new transparent material that could soon replace bulletproof glass in the military. vehicles. Aluminum oxynitride (ALON) is a transparent material similar in optical and structural characteristics to sapphire. It is very strong and much lighter than regular bulletproof glass.
The windshield, which consisted of three layers (ALON, glass, again ALON), during tests successfully withstood, for example, shelling with armor-piercing cartridges from an M-44 sniper rifle. Normal bulletproof glass needs to be several times thicker than an ALON windshield to withstand a similar load.

car glass coating process inside a thick film that provides protection and strength is called glass armor. This coating withstands the impact of a hammer, bats and other heavy objects. The booking system itself came from a business. The earliest films were invented for industrial buildings and commercial premises where protection from robbers and vandals is needed. In this article, you will learn how to apply such a film yourself, what advantages and disadvantages this system has, and how effective it is.

Film varieties

There are different armored films designed for:

  • Autoglass. Thickness from 250 to 310 microns. Free sale. Glued on the principle of tinting. It will take 1 month for complete drying. After that, the film withstands blows with a stone, a hammer, a bat. It saves the car and its passengers both from stones that can fly off on the highway, and he also robs.
  • office buildings. Thickness, as well as at a film for an auto glasses. Suitable for offices, shop windows, workshops, large shopping centers. Rolls of material are much larger in width than for auto glass.
  • especially important objects. Thickness is about 550 microns. This is necessary for especially important facilities in any state in order to protect themselves from possible terrorists. Such glass is absolutely impossible to break and penetrate into the room.
  • Bulletproof for auto glass. Withstands shooting not from any firearm. The standard film is bulletproof, capable of withstanding .38 caliber bullets from a pistol. The thickness of the glass must be at least 12 mm, as well as multi-layered, exactly like the windshield of a car. Automata, this reservation will not be able to withstand.

Whatever the booking film, it is difficult to give a 100% guarantee of strength. The name "bulletproof" is conditional. Studies have shown that this glass will not break through if they shoot from a pistol of the specified caliber and into different parts of the glass. In the event that bullets of the required caliber hit the same place, the glass will be pierced through and not a single film can save it.

Pros and cons of booking a windshield with a film

Often, car enthusiasts believe that car tinting and booking are related to each other. In addition, there is an opinion that such a coating windshield will impair visibility and interfere with driving. All this is completely wrong. The main features and advantages of such a film:

  • Quality visibility;
  • Does not mix with tinting;
  • Perfectly tolerates auto chemicals;
  • A thick film covers the windshield, a thin film covers everything else;
  • Coating with polarized film - reducing glare;
  • Uniform distribution of impact;
  • Protection against petty vandalism.

It is also worth remembering about the headlights, which also need protection from foreign objects.

Before you go to the service station, it is important to know the disadvantages of film booking:

  • When driving or parking, dust settles on the surface of the windshield. When the car owner turns on the wipers, significant damage is caused to the film in the form of scratches. To reduce damage, avoid heavy dusting and wipe the windshield more often.
  • Bubbles can appear anywhere. If they appear in front of the driver's eyes, they will usually be very annoying and reduce the quality of visibility. In addition, the appearance of the car suffers.

The price of booking car windows with a tint film starts around 3,500 rubles.

DIY booking

Glass armor is usually used by motorists who have become victims of broken glass for any reason: someone because of the stones that often fly off the wheels, and someone because of a robbery.

The appearance of the film is similar to tinted with the highest level of transparency. You can buy it in auto stores or through online stores. The procedure for applying the film is as follows.

1. You need to remove the side windows. It is necessary to follow everything according to the instructions based on the make and model of your machine. You should carefully get to the latches and remove the glass, before that, do not forget to unscrew the door cards.

2. Removal of dirt and grease. Important point- this is the degreasing of each glass completely. To do this, lay the glass on a pre-cleaned flat surface. Be careful with abrasive particles that can scratch the glass. Next, clean the inside side glass where the booking film will be applied. To clean it, you can use a glass cleaner and a lint-free cloth. It is important to understand here that any dust or lint, if it suddenly remains on the surface of the glass, will not remain under the film at all, and the view of the glass from the inside of the cabin will be far from aesthetic.

3. Preparation. The film itself consists of an adhesive layer and a protective colorless substrate. First you need to measure the glass and cut off the required amount of film with a margin.

4. Now apply to the clean inner side of the glass. The film must be positioned so that the substrate is at the bottom. Using masking tape, you can perfectly fix the film on the glass. Make sure that there is at least 1 cm of film peeking out from all sides.

5. Preparation special means to remove the adhesive part from the film. For cooking, you need to take plain water and liquid soap. The proportion is 20% soap and 80% water. Shampoo should be used with minimal fragrances and additives. Otherwise, these additives will most likely enter into a chemical reaction with the adhesive layer, which will turn out to be unknown. The resulting solution must be filled with a garden sprayer

6. We glue the film and smooth it. Carefully remove the protective backing, keeping the foam only where the edges will not come into contact with the glass. Pour the prepared solution over the surface of the glass and the adhesive layer of the film. Now you should attach the armored film with the sticky side to the inside of the side window. The first film will ride on the surface, this is necessary to smooth out the bumps with a special mini-spatula (it can be changed to bank card). With simple movements from the center to the edges it is necessary to expel all air bubbles. If this is not done, then bubbles will form, which will no longer be possible to remove.

7. Drying with a building hair dryer. After straightening the entire film, it must be thoroughly dried with a hairdryer. It has a high air t and a thinner jet. The hot film will be able to stretch over the surface. Then take a break for an hour so that the film has time to cool.

8. Removing excess. Initially, at least 1 cm extra was left in order for the film to be enough. Now that it has sat down well and cooled down, you can cut off the extra parts with a clerical knife. It is best to hold the knife at an angle of 45 degrees. It is also desirable to hold the film with a spatula.

Final drying lasts far from one day. The highest degree of protection will appear in a month. Based on experiments, it is possible to break through glass with only 4-5 hits in one place with a heavy object.

Reservation of car windows with film (video)

Outcome

Thus, armoring car windows with a film very well protects not only from foreign objects flying from under the wheels, but also from possible robbers and vandals. But, as a rule, car owners begin to think about it only when something like this happens and the glass is damaged.

Bulletproof glass looks completely ordinary, but it does not break on impact, and if you shoot at it, then the bullet will not break through such glass, it will get stuck in it. It is impossible to make bulletproof glass yourself, as it is a complex industrial process, but it is very interesting to learn how it works.

Invention of bulletproof glass

The idea that it is possible to strengthen glass, making it bulletproof, came to the French scientist Edouard Benedictus in 1910. He came up with the idea of ​​placing a celluloid film between two sheets of glass, which significantly increased the strength of the resulting product. Today, this method is called "laminating" glass, and Benedictus once called it "Triplex".

The same technology is currently used, but it has since improved significantly, and instead of celluloid, different kinds polymers. Sometimes curved glass is even glued this way. Bend them before joining.

Making bulletproof glass today

Bulletproof glass comes in various thicknesses, and it depends on this whether the glass will eventually stop the bullet. The thickness of such glasses is from 7 mm to 75 mm. Today, most often for the production of bulletproof glass, several layers of ordinary glass are used, between which layers of polycarbonate are poured. Polycarbonate is a clear plastic and is quite rigid, although it is layered. When a bullet penetrates the thickness of such glass, successive layers of polycarbonate absorb its energy, and it stops.

Currently, a special modification of bulletproof glass is being made - one-sided. A special type of plastic is used, the properties of which differ depending on the direction in which it is interacted with. One side of such glass stops bullets, but if you shoot from the other side of the glass, you can hit the enemy. This allows those behind the glass to be able to respond to an attack. At the same time, the glass surface is bent without collapsing.

Glass lamination

Laminating glass (applying a plastic film to it) is a very complex process from a technical point of view. They do it on automated equipment, in several stages. The last stage takes place at high temperature, the plastic film polymerizes and acquires approximately the same properties as stationery glue. It was at this time that the glasses finally connected.

While bulletproof glass is very strong, no glass is perfectly strong. The impact strength of triplex exceeds the strength of ordinary sheet glass by about 15 times. But even if such a sheet is destroyed, the fragments will remain on the film, and will not scatter in all directions, injuring people.

For production, three-layer bulletproof glass is considered ideal. The reason is that with each new layer, not only the protective properties increase, but also the cost of glass production. Laminated glass used in extreme cases where there is a serious threat to human life or in museums to protect very expensive exhibits.

Nothing lasts forever, and even more so such a vulnerable part of the car as the windshield. The need to replace it often arises, and the funds for this do not appear with such constancy, so a convenient way to make a windshield is useful to any motorist.

You will need

  • - Plexiglas 1.5 x 1.05 meters (for eight windshields);
  • - paper according to the size of the windshield;
  • - pencil;
  • - scissors;
  • - jigsaw;
  • - basin with a lid;
  • - water;
  • - ropes.

Instruction

Buy a piece of organic glass from a hardware market or specialty store. Choose a larger area, approximately 1.5 x 1 meter. The area of ​​such glass is enough for 8 windshields. Thus, this single cost will save you about $140 compared to ordering a new windshield for your car.

Take out your original windshield. Take paper and make a pattern that exactly matches the dimensions of the glass. Now transfer the pattern to the purchased plexiglass and cut out the desired piece. With the help of a jigsaw, this is done in 15 minutes in skilled hands.

Put water on the stove to boil in a large basin. Hold the glass by one side and dip into the basin when the water boils in it. To properly make a windshield, soak it in boiling water for a minute. Then make a deflection as far as the purchased plexiglass allows. Soak the bent piece in the water for 30 seconds, and then remove, controlling the safety of the deflection. If the desired camber angle is not reached, do not be discouraged, a slightly straight glass gives the impression of "tourist tuning".

Repeat these steps with the entire glass, alternately dipping different parts of the windshield into boiling water. If the water is not heated enough, barely noticeable cracks in the glass may appear. However, given the thickness of the glass and the size of the cracks, you can be sure that this defect will not be noticeable.

Pull the windshield to be made with ropes. This will allow you not to hold it, but to boil it safely in water for 5-6 minutes. For greater effect, close the basin with a lid. Correct dimensional inaccuracies due to temperature and physical force by filing the glass around the edges. Pull the elastic over the edge of the windshield. The made windshield is about 4mm thick, brand new and no scratches, no doubt will please your eye and wallet, put it in your car and enjoy the ride.

note

Make a paper pattern as accurately as possible according to the size of your native windshield, otherwise the result may be worse. If you don't heat the water enough, the glass may develop subtle cracks, which are smoothed out by the thickness of the glass.

Find a larger basin to make it as comfortable as possible to dip the glass.

Glass that is not afraid of a hammer! Does it happen?

Today I will tell you about how to protect your office, store or apartment from entering them through windows on your own.

The issue of security and protection of their property worries every person. If your apartment or office is located on the first or basement floor, then windows are one of the most vulnerabilities. The fact is that the window, which is located at the level of human growth, is a great temptation for spontaneous theft. And even if the room is equipped with an alarm, this will not prevent the attacker from grabbing something valuable and hiding before the arrival of security.

In this article, you will learn about how I booked window panes on my own in my store, located in the basement of a residential building.

A little theory at the beginning. The theory is not from Wikipedia, but in the form in which I understand it myself.

There are two types of armored glass: factory-made and armored with films. Unlike glasses armored with films, factory glasses received their armor at the production stage. With the help of armor films, you can protect any ordinary glass, such as shop windows or window glass. Of course, this glass can be broken. But this requires a lot of effort and time. So, for example, when hit with a hammer, the glass will not crumble into fragments, it will simply leave a small hole in it.

Films of various thicknesses are produced, as a rule, these are 100, 200 and 300 microns. The thicker the film, the higher the protection class. So, for example, for banks, halls of jewelry and weapons stores, the third class of protection is recommended. film thickness should be 600 µm. How is such a protection class achieved if the maximum film thickness is only 300 microns? You probably already guessed - one layer is glued to another.

For my purposes, I chose the 1st protection class: “protection against hooligans and vandals”, which corresponds to a film with a thickness of 300 microns. After searching the Internet for film sellers, I chose SOLARTEK film. The cost of 1 m2 - 500 rubles.

By the way, the same company can paste the film on the glass itself and it will cost 1040 rubles already. for 1m2.

So, let's move on to the process itself.

First of all, you need to remove the glass pane. Why not stick the film directly on the window, you ask? I didn't do it for the following reasons:
First, the glass must be thoroughly washed. It is more convenient to do this under the shower;
Secondly, it is more convenient to glue on a horizontal surface;
Thirdly, the edges of the film must be closed with glazing beads;
Fourthly, if you glue the film in winter, then this is necessary because. glass temperature must be at least 20 degrees

Dismantling of a double-glazed window

In order to remove a double-glazed window, you first need to remove the glazing beads holding it in the frame. This matter must be approached very seriously, because. you can easily scratch the window sash and the glazing beads themselves. To remove the glazing beads, I used an ax with a round sharp blade and a rubber mallet.

It is more convenient to start with long glazing beads, I started with the right one. Insert the blade of the ax between the frame and the glazing bead closer to the center.

Sometimes they are very close to each other that there is not even a gap. We hit the butt of the ax with a hammer several times so that the blade enters the slot. As soon as it has deepened a little, press on the butt with one hand, and with the other, take the ax handle and slowly turn it, trying to open the gap. Your goal is to open the gap so that after pulling out the blade, the glazing bead does not return to its place.

So by gradually moving the blade along the glazing bead, you increase the gap and at some point the glazing bead will pop out of engagement with the frame. Take it off.

Do the same with the opposite bead. Then move on to the top bead. After the top glazing bead is removed, carefully holding the glass from the inside, push it from the outside so that the top edge comes out of the frame. After that, take the glass from above with both hands and gently rock it from side to side, pull it out of the frame. Be careful, there are plastic mounting strips between the frame and glass on all sides - do not lose them.

After the glass is removed, the lower bead can be easily removed by hand.

Pay attention to the following:
It is necessary to mark the glazing beads so as not to confuse where they stood;
Remember the location of the mounting strips;
After the double-glazed window is removed, place it so that it does not fall

If you remove a double-glazed window not from a plastic window, but from a metal door, then the glazing beads are removed there much easier. Pick up the sealing gum that is between the glazing bead and the glass. Gently pull it out, and then remove the rest of the elastic bands. After that, the glazing beads can be easily removed without any tools.

Double-glazed window preparation

Before proceeding with gluing the film, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the double-glazed window. At work, I have a shower on the floor of which I laid rubber mats, and put a double-glazed window on top. Then you need to thoroughly wash the glass with soapy water.

After that, he drove water from the surface of the glass with a silicone scraper. On clean and dry glass, it is easy to see small growths, such as drops of paint or sealant.

Carefully remove them from the glass surface. To do this, you can use the blade of a clerical knife. Press the blade against the glass and use a scraper to clean its surface.

Looking ahead, I will say that most of the shortcomings that were visible on the reserved glass were associated with small debris that I did not notice at this stage.

After the glass is cleaned, it is recommended to degrease it, for example, with white spirit. I didn't do it. In addition, I washed the glass with an abrasive powder that is used to clean bathtubs. I know that theoretically this leaves small scratches on the glass, but such a powder well removes small imperceptible growths on the glass that are not visible to the eye. After that, I rinsed the glass well with water and dried it.

Film sticker

First you need to cut the film to the size of the glass. I marked and cut the film so that it did not reach the edges of the double-glazed window by 0.5 cm.

The film can be applied dry and wet. I didn’t even consider the dry method. I didn't have any experience with stickers. The essence of the wet application method is to moisten the glass before sticking the film. This will allow the film to move across the glass and prevent it from sticking immediately. As a solution, I used ordinary liquid soap, dissolving it in water in a ratio of 1 to 4, i.e. 25 gr. soap 100 gr. water. You can also use shampoo.

Moisten the glass liberally with a spray bottle.

Then remove the protective film from the adhesive layer.

Do not throw away the protective film - we will still need it. Carefully place the armor film on the double-glazed window and align its edges.

Press the film with your hand so that it does not move out, and begin to gradually expel water from under it. You need to expel from the center to the edges.

I booked 3 glasses and blew the water out every time different ways- a rag, a piece of plastic, a squeegee from a cartridge, a rubber spatula. I will not describe the disadvantages and advantages of each method. Now I will write the sequence of actions that I would use myself if I needed to glue the film again.

After you have placed the film on the glass and aligned the edges, smooth it out with your hand. This must be done so that the film sticks a little and does not move out. Then slightly moisten the film on top with soapy water, and then take the same protective film that was removed earlier and stick it on top. Then take a piece of plastic and use it to smooth the film from the center to the edges. I did not bother with small bubbles, but first glued the film over the entire area, expelling the bulk of the soapy water from under it. Then iron the film more carefully, trying to eliminate all small air bubbles under it.

Why is it necessary to glue the protective film on top? I came to this after gluing the first film scratched its entire surface. Despite the fact that the plastic was perfectly even, apparently microscopic irregularities still leave a mark on the armor film. To be honest, I do not understand why it is not protected by films on both sides.

You will also probably encounter the fact that the edges of the film will peel off from the double-glazed window.

This is due to the accumulation of soap solution on the edges of the glass, which prevents the film from sticking. You can temporarily fix the film with tape around the edges.

After the film is pasted, it needs to dry. The film should dry at a temperature not lower than 20 degrees for at least 24 hours.

I dried my double-glazed windows in the room for 5 hours, after which I installed them in the windows. When installing, do not forget to install the mounting strips as they were before.

Start installing the glazing beads in the reverse order - first short and then long. I started by installing the top glazing bead. Pressing the glazing bead with my hand with a hammer, I hammered it into place. The hammer must move along the plane of the glass. The glazing bead must be hammered evenly by tapping along its entire length so that it enters without distortions. If you use an ordinary hammer, then be double careful not to break the glass and hit not directly on the glazing bead, but through a small wooden block. Long glazing beads are installed as follows. First, insert one end of the glazing bead into the corner of the frame. You can even knock on it from below so that it goes up as tightly as possible, then bend the glazing bead with your hand and bring the lower end into place. At this point, the bead will be slightly curved.

Gently tapping with a hammer in the middle of the glazing bead, hammer it into place.

Glass pane installed.

Result

In general, I am pleased with the result.

The first double-glazed window turned out to be the most unsuccessful, because. I glued it without a protective film, left a lot small scratches and one big one.

The second and third double-glazed windows turned out without these shortcomings. But there are several points on them where the film did not stick due to a small speck.

Conclusion: wash the glass more thoroughly !!!

After I pasted the film in some places there were some muddy stains. Especially in those where I peeled off the film in the process and stuck it again.

After two days the stains were gone. Therefore, in the process of sticking the film, pay attention only to the specks that have fallen under the glass and to air bubbles. Everything else will disappear in a few days when the adhesive on the film is fully adhered to the glass.

I believe that the economic benefit from self-sticking the film is small - only 540 rubles. with m2. Would you like to glue the film yourself?

Sincerely, Vasily Devaev.
www.devaev.ru