NOISE INSULATION OF CAR DOORS ACCORDING TO THE "PREMIUM" OPTION IN THE "ANTI-NOISE" STUDIO
WHY DO YOU NEED NOISE INSULATION OF DOORS AND WHAT WILL IT GIVE YOU?
Proper soundproofing of car doors is the first item in the program of phased soundproofing of the cabin. This is due to the fact that the total area of all doors is quite large and is the largest among all other elements of the body. And the metal of the doors and roof of the car is the thinnest and devoid of stiffeners. This thin metal not only resonates during the operation of acoustics, vibrates from the impact of oncoming air flows at speed, and oscillates along with the rest of the car body from road irregularities. He also freely passes into the cabin the noise from passing cars nearby and other noise from the outside. After all, it is much easier for a sound wave to pass through the thin metal of the door and the same thin plastic lining than through the more massive glass of a car!
Full-fledged and high-quality vibration and noise-insulating door treatment allows you to really reduce the noise level in the car! You will no longer clearly hear the noise of cars standing nearby in a traffic jam or cars passing by, it will become much more comfortable and cozier in the cabin, because by closing the soundproof door you are truly reliably separated from the outside world in the cabin of your car.
In addition, as a pleasant “bonus”, you will receive a significant improvement in the sound of acoustics (even standard ones), because the door will become more rigid and there will be much fewer holes in it, and the sound of the acoustics will not freely go outside through the outer metal of the door.
That is why the soundproofing of car doors is the most important stage of our work!
PRICE: 10,000 - 15,000 rubles for 4 doors
TIME: 2-3 hours
NUMBER OF LAYERS: 3-4 layers
WEIGHT: 1.3-1.8kg per door
HOW DO WE SOUND-INSULATE DOORS?
Obviously, to soundproof the doors, they need to be disassembled. To disassemble the door, first of all, its plastic lining is dismantled. On the skin, as a rule, there are several pieces of regular factory "sound insulation".
However, these pieces, which are meager in area and thickness, are not always enough to protect the interior from noise, and the door trim from rattling and squeaks. In addition, the skins are sometimes made of such thin plastic that they rattle and resonate even at a low volume of the audio system. In this case, we apply small pieces of the STP Silver vibration isolator to even areas of plastic. This material, due to its weight and plasticity, will significantly reduce the resonant frequency of thin plastic. You can use STP AERO, and any other vibration isolator with a thickness of 2-3 mm.
Since there is usually enough free space under the skin to apply materials of considerable thickness. The only requirement is that the material should not be rigid so as not to repel the skin from the door metal in places where they fit snugly. Therefore, we apply a soft and viscous sound absorber Biplast Premium, 20 mm thick, to the entire area of the skin. The material is self-adhesive, embossed, soft, airy and effective over a wide frequency range. We leave holes for fasteners, wiring plugs and a speaker.
Now we can put the casing aside and go directly to the soundproofing of the door itself ... And here the nuances begin. After all, the design of the doors different cars may differ significantly. Here are the most common layouts...
The easiest to disassemble is the door design with holes in the inner metal, through which there is access to the outer metal of the doors. This door design is common in Toyota vehicles, Suzuki, Subaru, Chevrolet, BMW and many, many others. A door with this design is easier to disassemble, but more difficult to glue, because through the holes with their not always convenient location and sharp metal edges, full access to the door volume is sometimes possible. The holes are usually covered with factory polyethylene. It serves primarily as a vapor and moisture insulation of the cabin, because moisture is very common inside the doors. This can be seen even in the photo.
We remove the polyethylene, dismantle the speaker of the audio system and get access to the volume of the door ...
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It is through these holes that materials are applied to the outer metal of doors of this design. However, along with this arrangement, another car door scheme is often found. Often, having disassembled the door, you can see not a film and large “windows” under it, but a plastic shield that completely blocks access to the inside of the door. This design is found on Mazda, Kia, Hyundai, Jeep and many others.
This shield can also be not plastic, but metal. This door design is found on many Mercedes cars, Volkswagen, Volvo, Ford and already mentioned Kia cars(Recently, Kia's transition to plastic shields is obvious). Sometimes this metal part is even riveted to the metal of the door with rivets, but these are quite rare cases (for example Skoda Octavia A5 and some Mercedes cars).
In this case, you need to dismantle the glass or hang it in the opening, and then remove the shield, gaining access to the door volume. Dismantling, of course, takes some time and requires skills and preparation, but all this pays off with the convenience of gluing and the ability to apply the material to the maximum area, carefully and aesthetically!
For maximum clarity, it is on the example of such a door that we will show the technology of applying our materials to the outer metal, because the sizing scheme is the same for doors of any design. To begin with, the metal is degreased and dried. This is a prerequisite for proper sound insulation, and it is this that ensures reliable adhesion of materials and the durability of the doors and car body, because when materials are applied to a dirty and non-degreased surface, air cavities will inevitably remain under the material, which will subsequently lead to the formation of condensate and corrosion in them. We degrease the metal with a special anti-silicone (for example, Body 770 or Novol 780). So, on a clean, fat-free and dried surface, we apply the first layer. Its task is to dampen the vibrations of the thin metal of the door. Therefore, the first layer on the door is a light and effective vibration isolator STP AERO. With a thickness of only 2 mm, it has a coefficient of mechanical losses KMF = 0.33, and the StP Aero material is effective in a wide temperature range, from -10 C to +30 C. Aero, like any other vibration isolator, must be carefully rolled to the metal surface with a rigid roller, only then it will work as efficiently as possible. It is not necessary to apply the material to door amplifiers, double metal and other elements with a low resonant frequency (hard and “deaf” to rattle). No need to glue drainage holes in the lower part of the door, it is better to retreat a few centimeters from the edges of the door in order to avoid overlaps, moisture ingress and delamination of materials. The optimal coverage area of a thin-walled element with a vibration-insulating material is 70%. It is possible and more, but the effect of this will no longer grow significantly.
Now you can move on to applying the second layer. There is usually enough space in the volume of the door, so even material of considerable thickness can be applied there. Therefore, it would be wrong to neglect this layer. However, there are also limitations. As mentioned above, moisture often gets into the volume of the door: during rain and washing, water flows through the slots of the side windows, moisture from warm and saturated air quickly condenses on cold metal. And that is why the soundproofing material for the second layer must have a moisture-resistant adhesive layer and not absorb water. After numerous experiments, such a material was developed: this is the STP Accent Premium sound absorber with a thickness of 10 mm. The material has a moisture-resistant sealant instead of an adhesive layer, and also has a closed cell structure that does not allow it to absorb moisture. The question arises, how can a closed-cell material work for sound absorption, because in this case it works as a sound insulator?! However, everything is quite simple. StP Accent Premium is needle punched to open some of the cells on the surface of this material. And later, the front surface is covered with a film that prevents moisture from entering the open cells, but does not prevent sound waves from entering these cells. So, we apply the second layer to the outer metal of the doors.
Now that two full layers of effective materials have been applied to the outer metal of the doors, we put the plastic or metal shield in place and fix the glass. If the shield is plastic, it is usually made of thick and massive material, has many ribs and bends, and it is on it that the guides, the power window motor and other parts and assemblies are fixed. All this gives it additional rigidity, which means that it does not need vibration isolation. If the shield is metal, sealing 100% of the shield's surface is not only impractical, but also harmful. After all, then the technological openings for removing the glass are closed, all the wiring and fasteners of the shield itself. Thus, if you subsequently have to disassemble the door for repair (problems with locks, power windows, body repair, glass replacement, etc.), you may run into problems. Therefore, it is enough to apply a vibration isolator on even parts of the shield and close all the existing through holes with the same material.
If the door has a design with “windows”, and not a panel one, then we replace the standard plastic film with a vibration isolator, closing all the holes with it. In this case, if access to the door is required, it will be necessary to slightly warm up the vibration isolator and remove it in the right place on the door.
Now we can reinstall the plastic door trim that we processed earlier, and after the final assembly and testing of the operation of all circuits (lighting, power windows, locks, etc.), the soundproofing of the doors is over!
In the following articles, we will tell you about the sound insulation of other elements of your car using our technology!
You can learn more about our car noise isolation technology from the videos shot in the studios ANTI-NOISE!
If you have any questions, just call the nearest studio ANTI-NOISE! You will find contacts of all our studios in the corresponding section of our website -. We will be happy to help you!
For many motorists, it is very important to maintain relative silence in their car, creating a certain comfort for themselves. However, not everyone vehicle there may be a satisfactory level of absorption of external sounds. In this article, we will talk about how to do the soundproofing of car doors with your own hands in several stages and how to reduce the vibration of all elements in the door frame.
To ensure a high level of sound insulation in any car, it is the doors that should be affected. This part usually has small gaps or holes that appeared due to the loss of elasticity of the seals or were made during production. The door is one of the most important elements, which is responsible for the level of absorption of external sounds.
Noise isolation of car doors begins with the disassembly of this part.
If the work is done correctly, it is possible to reduce the degree of noise in the car interior by 25-30%. It should be noted that the implementation of soundproofing on the door elements will significantly reduce the frequency of vibration and rattling, as well as improve the sound of music in the cabin.
The work process begins with the fact that it will be necessary to disassemble the outer lining of the door itself. It has a lot of different screws, screws and other fasteners that need to be unscrewed. It is advisable to lay out each type of part in separate boxes, and at the same time make notes on a piece of paper which of the fasteners is suitable for certain holes.
This item is very important, since you will definitely need to reassemble the structure. Therefore, it is very important to do everything correctly in reverse order so that each fastening element is put in its place.
Remember that during the disassembly of the door, it is not necessary to dismantle the power windows and other mechanisms that are responsible for opening and closing this part. In the further process of installing sound insulation, these elements will not interfere, and when assembling everything into one structure, this may take more time than necessary.
After removing the outer cladding and panels, you will need to proceed with the removal of the factory soundproofing from the doors. You do not have to worry about rough work, but it is advisable to do it carefully and with the help of additional tools so as not to damage the top layer of paint from the body. If it is accidentally damaged, then over time the metal in this area will begin to corrode.
After removing the factory soundproofing material, carefully remove the remaining adhesive, and all small particles from the seal. After completing the work, it is necessary to degrease the surface. For this you can use chemicals by carefully wiping the surface, or alcohol.
First steps for soundproofing
Noise insulation of car doors can be continued after degreasing the surface. This will improve adhesion to the soundproofing material.
Pasting with soundproofing material must be started from the outside.
When pasting this part, it is best to select vibration-proof materials. It is necessary to cover them with the maximum available surface. This is not very easy to do, but the result will please you. Be sure to use all available openings and openings. To increase the level of sound insulation and vibration, it is not recommended to make the vehicle doors heavier.
It is correct for this purpose to select material with a minimum weight. It is also recommended to choose a product that will withstand temperature changes and mechanical stress well.
After fixing the internal soundproofing material, a sound-absorbing material will follow. The process will be exactly the same as the previous one.
However, you should pay attention to one nuance - the door insulation does not have good protection from moisture. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the right coating, which has the highest resistance to moisture. The less moisture accumulates, the less corrosion processes will take place.
If you have a question, what sound insulation to use for work, we recommend choosing modern models. In modern samples preserved optimal balance all necessary material requirements.
Since working in a narrow space is very problematic, there is a chance of injuring your hands on sharp edges. We recommend wearing gloves for this.
Video “Do-it-yourself soundproofing car doors”
Video instructions for soundproofing car doors from the manufacturer of soundproofing materials SHUMOFF.
Vibration isolation of all door openings
After completing the external insulation, you can proceed to the internal (closer to the cabin).
To do this, you can close up all the technical holes and crotches with a special dense and durable material. It usually improves the sound quality of speakers and amplifiers. You can also do waterproofing.
The holes can be filled with fiberglass or aluminum cladding. The plugs will need to be pasted over with a special material - a vibration damper. After completing this stage, be sure to check whether the door will close and open without obstacles. The last stage is the installation of vibration isolation material on the inner surface of the vehicle door.
When increasing the weight of a car door, be aware that the door hinges will carry more load than was originally designed during manufacture. Here you can set priorities - high-quality sound of music in the cabin or long-term operation of door elements.
If the quality of the music suits you, then vibration reduction is very simple. To begin with, all holes and openings are completely closed with a waterproofing film, and then you need to paste with vibration isolation.
soundproofing door trim
The instructions for soundproofing the skin on the car doors are very simple. After you have managed to choose the right material for the job, it should be installed over the entire plane. Some motorists install the material only under the joints between the plastic and the skin.
Since the main creaks and knocks are associated with the skin, the following actions will be the most optimal solution. First of all, glue all planes that should be joined with the door with vibration damping strips. WITH reverse side cladding will need to be glued with one solid sheet of soundproofing material.
The sheet must be bigger size than the glued surface. For him, you can make an allowance of a few centimeters, as this will facilitate the work. Trimming can be done later with scissors or a sharp knife.
After carrying out all the stages of work described above, the doors can be finally assembled and installed. This is how the correct soundproofing of the doors in the car looks like.
Video “Instructions for soundproofing car doors”
Detailed description of the standard sound insulation of car doors. Pointing out the places to pay attention to.
The car contributes to increased comfort, since this insulation prevents the penetration of noise from the outside into the cabin. It will not be possible to completely protect the car from sound, but sound insulation can drown out a small and medium-sized sound.
Soundproofing treatment of any car is reduced to the application of sound-absorbing layers on certain parts of the car body. Such processing can be conditionally divided into three zones - the front of the car, the interior, the rear.
Processing the front of the machine is reduced to soundproofing engine compartment and front wheel arches. At the rear, sound insulation is applied to the walls, floor and trunk lid with inside.
Most exposed to soundproofing. In it, insulating layers are applied to the floor, the wall adjacent to engine compartment, ceiling and doors. If auto-made in a hatchback-type body, then the soundproofing treatment of the interior is combined with the treatment of the rear.
Why soundproof car doors?
It is worth noting that automakers do not always pay attention to decent sound insulation, or simply save on it. And if a fairly high-quality material with good sound-absorbing properties can be laid on the floor, then the processing on the car doors is often very weak, although the sound penetrates through them very well.
Soundproofing car doors with your own hands is a completely doable operation if you know the sequence of actions and choose the right materials.
With soundproof doors, the music inside the car becomes much better
One of the main factors that affect the complexity of the work is the presence or absence of elements in the doors. If there are no speakers, then it will be easier to process the door, and less material will be spent.
The presence of speakers in the doors will somewhat complicate the work, however, the end result of the soundproofing of the doors will lead to an improvement in sound.
Methods for soundproofing car doors
It should be noted that do-it-yourself soundproofing doors will lead to another positive factor - by increasing the mass of the door due to the applied layers, they will close easier and quieter. But here it is important not to overdo it. A large number of soundproofing layers can lead to an excessive increase in mass, due to which the doors may sag or come off completely.
Necessary materials
Not so much is required to complete the work:
Preparatory work
Next, consider the sequence of actions. The first step is to remove the door card. This must be done carefully so as not to damage it, as well as its fastening elements. If there are lifting handles, they must be removed from the shaft, the door opening handle can not be touched.
If the door has factory sound insulation, it will need to be removed from the door, and the speaker, if any, will also need to be dismantled.
Before starting work, it is necessary to remove from the car door all elements that may interfere with the installation of sound insulation
Any car door consists of two walls - the inner, which is closer to the cabin, and the outer. Often, automakers apply anti-corrosion treatment to the outer wall, which will also have to be removed, for which you can use white spirit and rags. At the same time, the anti-corrosion treatment must be removed carefully so as not to damage the walls. After removing the treatment, the door will need to be dried well.
On this preparatory work completed and you can start gluing the insulating layers.
Soundproofing car door frame
If a speaker is mounted on the outer wall in the door, a circle of anti-creak material can be glued in the area of \u200b\u200bit location, this will have a positive effect on the sound in the future. But it is not worth gluing the entire surface of the outer wall with this material, since it absorbs moisture well, which can lead to corrosion.
Video: Noise-vibration insulation of a car - part 1 - "Doors"
Next, we move on to the inner wall. On this wall, you also need to stick a layer of vibration isolation. Moreover, it will need to be glued on both sides. On the inside, the one closer to the outer wall, pieces of vibration isolation are glued to all accessible surfaces, but it is important to ensure that in the future they do not interfere with the operation of the door opening mechanism and raising the windows. After the sticker, it is better to immediately check their performance, if necessary, you can lubricate these mechanisms.
The door needs to be glued on the inside.
After processing the inner side of the wall, you can start pasting the outer one, the one that goes to the cabin. This side can be pasted over, along with technological holes. After gluing, you will need to cut holes for the speaker, handles for opening the door and lifting the windows, and also, if necessary, carry out all the necessary wiring.
Soundproofing the outer side of the door
Then a soundproofing layer is glued onto the applied vibration isolation layer. It should cover the surface of the vibration isolation layer, after which the necessary holes should be cut out in this layer as well. At this stage, you will need to once again check the performance of all door mechanisms, as well as install a speaker if it is attached to the door wall, and not to the card. After sticking the soundproofing layer, an almost closed space is formed inside the door between the walls, which will significantly improve the sound of the speaker system.
Video: Instructions for soundproofing car doors
Further work is done with the door card itself. It will first need to be glued on a vibration-proof material, cut into thin rags. It is better to do this along the contour, and also stick several stripes on the inside of the card. If it consists of two parts, you need to glue them both. Applying stripes of this layer will prevent the card from vibrating.
Then the entire surface of the card is pasted over with anti-creak material, with a small margin at the edges. After that, you can attach the card to the door. But before that, it is better to replace all fasteners with new ones, and also use self-tapping screws, but only in places where they will not be noticeable. This should be done because the old elements may not withstand the load and the card will move away from the door.
After fastening the card, the protruding parts of the anti-squeak material must be cut off. Since the trimming is done after the card is attached, this material will work for its intended purpose, that is, it will not allow the card to touch and creak against the door.
Next, you can check the fastening of all external elements located on the map and, if necessary, glue them. On this, all the work of soundproofing the door is over. Soundproofing work with the rest of the car doors is carried out identically.
Soundproofing car doors is one of the most popular types of tuning. It makes the door heavier and thicker, protects from outside noise, improves the sound of music. There are minimum, average, maximum and extreme.
With the help of such tuning, different goals are achieved. This is getting rid of noise, drafts, improving acoustics, etc. The thickness of the door metal is the smallest in the entire body. The material resonates with sounds, vibrates, does not interfere with extraneous noise. At the same time, the total area is significant, so their sheathing is the first thing to start with insulating the cabin.
Getting rid of external noise
This is one of the main reasons why the "shumka" of doors is made - this is how sound insulation is called in the common people. If the car does not get sounds from the street when driving, which are made by people, other equipment, animals, industrial enterprises, other sources, then the driver feels more comfortable. His attention is focused on the road and driving, he is not distracted and at the same time feels comfortable.
Getting rid of extraneous squeaks and rattles
The squeaks and rattles that your own car makes can also annoy and distract the driver. Soundproofing in this case does not solve the problem, but it will help not to be distracted by noise until it is completely eliminated.
Eliminate excessive drafts in the car
There are technological holes in the door. Usually they are covered with sheathing and do not create drafts. But if cracks appeared somewhere, the skin ceased to adjoin tightly, then an additional layer of insulation is mounted.
Door Closing Improvement
When closing car doors, they begin to vibrate, and sometimes it is not possible to slam them the first time. The introduction of additional layers of insulation makes the structure heavier. As a result, it snaps into place on the first try, without rattling or vibration.
Improving the sound of music in the car
When making soundproofing doors to improve the sound quality of music in a car, many are trying to turn the design into a completely closed “box”. But this is impossible. There are drain holes, a slot for side window and the walls themselves are not rigid enough. If you want to improve acoustics, the main thing is to get rid of resonances. It is they who form extraneous sounds, distort the signal reproduced by the speaker.
How is door soundproofing done?
The procedure includes the following steps:
- dismantling of the door, its lining;
- carrying out vibration isolation;
- performance of sound insulation;
- assembly and installation.
Each stage has its own nuances.
Choice of materials for noise and vibration isolation
Under the skin there is a lot of free space for thick sealant material. The main condition when choosing is that it should not be too hard. Otherwise, it will push the skin away from the metal where they fit snugly together.
Materials fall into three categories:
- Bimasts. They consist of layers of mastic and bitumen with an outer coating of aluminum, paper or fabric. Thickness - 2-5 mm. Relatively new material on the market.
- Vibroplasts. They consist of three layers: glue, foil, polymeric water-absorbing material.
- Visomat. A bitumen-polystyrene mixture product with an adhesive-based anti-adhesive gasket. Protects from vibrations. For installation, heating with a building hair dryer is required.
Bitoplast, Vizomat, Vibroplast Gold, StP Aero Plus, Accent Premium, Bomb Premium are suitable for vibration isolation of doors.
Materials differ in their characteristics. The choice is based on goals. You should decide what you want to get: excellent acoustics, insulation from street noise or protection from drafts.
Soundproofing methods
All options differ in execution technology. Which method to choose is a personal matter for everyone.
Minimum
Its purpose is to reduce the level of noise coming from outside. For the use of serious acoustics in the car is not suitable. Advantages - ease of installation, low price. All that is required is to glue the door with a continuous layer of material. Thickness - at least 2 mm. The surface of the door card is pasted over. The isolate layer also acts as a protection against dust and water. This method is often chosen for soundproofing front doors.
Medium
Used to reduce the level of noise coming from outside, as well as to improve the sound of the speaker system. Benefits - optimal price-quality ratio. Installation is more laborious than in the first case. A vibration isolation layer is applied. The second layer is soundproofing. Additionally, it is recommended to install an acoustic lens.
Acoustic lens - a special device that looks like an optical lens, but from other materials. It focuses the sound wave, does not allow it to scatter. As a result, the sound is clearer and louder.
Maximum
It is used to improve the sound of a powerful speaker system with speakers in the doors. Eliminating sounds from outside does not play a fundamental role, but this problem is solved automatically. The procedure involves more steps than the minimum and average. We list all the layers of such sound insulation:
- Vibration isolator up to 3 mm.
- Noise absorber with adhesive layer.
- Adhesive based aluminum foil used for process holes.
- rigid vibration isolator up to 2-3 mm.
- Soundproofing Splen or others.
For soundproofing door cards, a layer of vibration-insulating material is laid. They also install speakers.
extreme
It is installed for powerful acoustics. Advantages - complete isolation from everyone extraneous sounds for the purest sound. The door becomes much heavier. Stages of gluing car doors:
- The door is reinforced with aluminum strips or rigid vibration isolation.
- A layer of thick vibration-absorbing material is laid between the reinforced ribs.
- An adhesive-based noise absorber is placed on top.
- Holes are covered with aluminum or special resin.
- Vibration isolation 3-4 mm is laid on top.
- The final layer is made of a noise insulator.
Vibration and noise-absorbing thick materials are also used to process door cards.
Procedure sequence
The silencer does not have a clear, unambiguous instruction. Each car model has its own nuances. However, the sequence of actions is common to all.
Dismantling
Before gluing the sound insulation on the doors in the car, they must be dismantled. Then remove the casing, remove the moisture-proof film. Clean all surfaces, degrease with a suitable product.
On the inside of the structure, the vibration isolation layer is glued between the stiffeners. The material must not be allowed to go over the ribs. This will create unnecessary air pockets and negate the effect. Therefore, you should carefully mark and cut the material. After gluing, it is necessary to seal it; for this, a pressure roller is used. It is important to leave open the drainage holes at the bottom of the structure.
When finishing a shield with technological holes, one should be guided by the traces of the removed moisture-proof film. During installation, you can immediately cut holes for fasteners, otherwise it will be more difficult to find them later.
Noise isolation
Consider how to properly glue the sound insulation in the car on the door:
- remove the standard soundproofing;
- degrease the surface;
- measure, cut the desired piece of material;
- glue the layer, carefully repeating all the bends of the skin;
- along the way, cut holes for the speaker, clips, a set of wires, handles;
- pass a strip of anti-creak material along the edge of the isolate layer.
After that, the structure is put back. For the rest of the doors, the scheme is exactly the same.
Advantages and disadvantages
Noise isolation has a set of such advantages:
- being in the car is more comfortable, more pleasant, nothing distracts;
- the car can be sold more expensive;
- you will be able to use a good speaker system without sound loss;
- the door closes softly, without extraneous noise.
There is no unequivocal opinion whether it is worth doing it. Any tuning has pitfalls. The door becomes heavier, as a result, the hinges sag and quickly become unusable. The driver hears worse what is happening outside. You have to focus only on the mirrors.
Before you start tuning, you should learn how to properly rustle car doors and find out what materials to use, otherwise self tuning will result in a major overhaul.
Many people have a question about the correct sizing of doors with sound insulation. The Internet is full of information about various ways, sequences and necessary materials for soundproofing doors. Rereading forums, various articles, people get confused: some do it this way, others do it differently, on the “Mazda form they say that it’s better to do this, because some did it and he is satisfied”, “opel read on the forum that the doors are better glue with one vibration and sculpt splenitis on the skin, "etc. to infinity. This confusion arises for the following reasons: not every user of a particular forum is a professional in the field of sound insulation, plus, many do not understand the essence of "how noise and vibration isolation works" in principle.
So, soundproofing doors includes the following:
2. Noise isolation
3. Anti-squeak treatment
4. Pasting the door trim with a sound absorber.
Let's start with point 1 - vibration isolation.
The first layer is ALWAYS vibration isolation - we install it on the outer wall of the door (the one that "looks" at the street). 2mm vibration isolation is enough on the door, because the thickness of the door metal is quite small. The vibration isolation must be tightly adhered to the metal of the door itself, therefore the surface of the door must be degreased beforehand, and the vibration isolation must be rolled in with a rigid roller (heated up to +17 at least at a low temperature). We try to cover the maximum amount of surface with vibration isolation.
IT IS NOT NEEDED TO PASTE WITH VIBRATION ISOLATION IN THE DOOR!!! You won’t do worse - you simply translate the material - there will be no sense.
This is how the result of p1 will look like.
or like this, if you have open technological holes
We pass to p2. - Noise isolation. I would like to clarify a little that soundproofing materials and sound-absorbing materials are 2 different things (exactly like the words "isolate" and "absorb") - we will dwell on this in more detail in the following articles. Noise insulation, it has another second property - thermal insulation, in contrast to the sound absorber. The task of the sound absorber is to disperse the directed sound wave.
The second layer, on top of the vibration isolation, we install sound insulation. It can be Splen Shumoff P8 or Comfort6. Noise isolation is self-adhesive, but nevertheless it is desirable to roll it with a hard roller. Do not be afraid that you will not have a solid soundproofing sheet in the door (you will not physically put it there) - the main thing is that it be neat and cover as much of the surface as possible.
It should turn out like this:
Then we return to point 1 again. Vibration isolation. In order to achieve maximum effect+ to achieve high-quality sound of the speakers in the door, technological holes must be closed with vibration isolation (NOT SPLE, namely vibration isolation), because it has a decent rigidity so that your door can be seen as a closed, hollow space (which is what music needs to be).
It should be like this:
We proceed to step 3 - anti-creak processing. What we do: we wrap all the wires and rods with Shumoff Bitolon 5mm anti-creak. We also paste over the joints of the skin with the metal of the door with bitolon, we also process the removable plastic parts of the skin with bitolon. Do not forget about the clips - we also process them with an anti-creak.
If there is a desire and an opportunity to bring the doors to the maximum improved state, then we recommend that you additionally install partial vibration isolation on the door trim and completely paste over it with a sound absorber (not a sound insulator, NOT SPLE) Germeton A15. This will give the most positive effect for the sound of music, the pleasantness of closing the door and the silence when driving.
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On this you can finish and assemble the door. Full high-quality sound insulation doors.
We hope this article will help you. Do not reinvent the wheel - call, ask, do not hesitate to ask any questions.