Antifreeze or antifreeze is a working fluid that is designed to circulate in the circuit. Insufficient coolant (coolant) level, a significant loss of its properties, air ingress into the system and other malfunctions lead to the fact that the engine does not work optimally for power unit temperature mode.
The appearance of an antifreeze leak is a common problem that requires an immediate solution. The fact is that even a slight leak can suddenly develop into a serious leak. As a result, the engine can quickly overheat, which leads to serious consequences for the motor. For this reason, it is important to find the leak and fix the antifreeze leak in the cooling system. In this article, we will look at where antifreeze can leak from, talk about how to find an antifreeze leak, and also answer the question of how to fix leaks.
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Why is antifreeze flowing
The engine cooling system consists of several main elements, as well as connecting pipes. Antifreeze in the system is a mixture of water and concentrate in certain proportions. As the internal combustion engine heats up, the temperature of the coolant also rises, the coolant itself is in the system under a certain pressure. It is quite obvious that any defects in individual components associated with tightness will cause leaks. Malfunctions can occur both with the elements themselves and with the nozzles. We add that in some cases the driver may be faced with the fact that antifreeze flows to the cold, the appearance of leaks occurs after warming up, the leakage can be intense or subtle (antifreeze leaves slowly or quickly), etc.
The cause of coolant leaks may be the natural wear of the elements, mechanical damage, assembly errors during repair work in engine compartment, gross violations of the rules for operating the car, which led to breakdowns or depressurization of the cooling system.
One of the primary signs that indicates a problem is the coolant level in the expansion tank. If its constant decrease is noted, then this indicates a problem. An exception can be considered that during the operation of the car, the level in the tank slightly decreases naturally. This is not a malfunction. For example, in cold weather, the coolant tends to decrease somewhat in volume. On a serviceable motor, after warming up, the level should return to normal. In the summer, when the cooling system is at its limit, the water in the coolant evaporates. In this case, topping up is carried out. If the level in the tank drops more intensively, then the system needs to be diagnosed.
Where does antifreeze flow from and how to find a leak
A leak in a radiator, pipes or other components can often be seen by wet spots, collected drops of coolant, etc. If a visual inspection does not accurately detect the place of leakage, then during the search, all components of the cooling system should be checked one by one.
- First of all, the culprit may be expansion tank. It is also possible that antifreeze is leaking from under the cap. In this case, the coolant will evaporate through the cracks and various cracks that appear on the tank body or lid. It can be difficult to visually identify such a malfunction, since leaks through microcracks are almost imperceptible. To eliminate the malfunction, it is better to change the tank and / or cover.
Attention! Before starting work that is related to the cooling system and its check, the engine must be allowed to cool down. Ignoring this rule may result in serious burns and injury.
- Another reason increased consumption antifreeze can be pipes and joints. In this case, it is easier to detect a leak. Many car enthusiasts use a simple method, which is to put a sheet of paper under the car. If it is on the car, then the sheet is placed on protection. The car is then parked. The appearance of coolant stains is a reason to inspect the pipes, hoses, as well as their connection points with the radiator of the cooling system. The gasket also deserves special attention, since antifreeze leakage from under the thermostat is quite common. The thermostat housing may also be faulty. In such a situation, the device is changed.
Rubber nipples should be inspected first, as access to them is often not difficult. Also, if a problem with the nozzle is detected, this element can be replaced without much difficulty. The main problem nozzles is their cracking, as the rubber product is exposed to high temperatures and also works in conditions of constant heating and cooling. Cracks in rubber fittings are usually not the cause of major leaks, antifreeze seeps through defects slowly. During the inspection, it must be taken into account that a crack may appear on different sides of the pipe. For this reason, the nozzles should be carefully felt, and a mirror can also be used to inspect hard-to-reach areas.
It should also be added that the problem may not be in the rubber pipes themselves, but in their junctions. In other words, you should check the reliability of tightening the clamps at the junction of the pipe with fittings. Often a stronger puff helps.
By the way, many motorists are interested in how to eliminate antifreeze leaks from or pipes, how to clean leaks at the junction of the pipe and fitting. In the case of a cooling radiator or heater radiator, the element must be replaced or repaired. suggests soldering it. In extreme cases, you can use a sealant for the cooling system. As for how to eliminate the leakage of antifreeze from the nozzles, the element needs to be replaced. Note that it is also possible to use a special sealant, but this is just a temporary measure. After applying the sealant at the joints, taking into account temperature differences (expansion during heating and narrowing during cooling), this method is also not reliable. It turns out that the sealant is suitable for the radiator, but it is no longer for the pipes.
- If everything is fine with the pipes and the tank, then the next step is to check (the water pump of the cooling system). In practice, cases when antifreeze flows from the pump are quite common. Coolant leakage occurs due to the fact that the stuffing box seal of the coolant pump loses its properties. Antifreeze flows out of the pump rod, after which it is sprayed. With a visual inspection, this is clearly visible, since adjacent parts will have traces of coolant on the surface. In a situation where antifreeze flows from under the pump, it is better to immediately diagnose and replace the water pump. The fact is that on many cars the pump is driven by a belt. A jammed pump can cause the belt to break, resulting in a high chance of bending.
- A hidden cause of leakage of antifreeze or antifreeze can also be a stove radiator. The specified radiator may not leak much, as a result of which the coolant begins to evaporate from the system. Obvious signs can be considered a strong fogging of the windshield, as well as a sweetish smell of antifreeze in the cabin. More serious leaks are manifested in the form of the fact that coolant appears under the feet (often under the front passenger seat).
- Also in the list of malfunctions of the cooling system, it is necessary to highlight the antifreeze leak from under the cylinder head. Such leaks can be a sign of cracks in or, and also indicate.
A more common problem with a gasket, burnout or breakdown occurs on cars whose mileage often exceeds about 100 thousand kilometers traveled. The fact is that the gasket is under serious stress. The service life of the element is also affected by the material of manufacture (paronite or a metal product).
A more serious problem is a cracked block or block head. It should be noted that leakage of antifreeze in the event of cracks or problems with the gasket does not always mean that the coolant comes out. If the defect affects the channels of the lubrication and cooling system, then coolant may enter the internal combustion engine cylinders, the coolant is mixed with engine oil. As a result, not only does the level of antifreeze fall, but the lubricant also loses its properties. For the engine, this can have serious consequences, the power unit wears out, jams and fails.
To exclude or confirm the diagnosis, it is enough to believe, as well as to examine for an emulsion. If the level has risen, and a characteristic brownish-white foam is also visible on the dipstick, this will indicate that the coolant has entered the lubricant internal combustion engine system. Even in the process of checking, you can unscrew and inspect them. If white spots are noticed, then this is also a sign of antifreeze in the oil. Another sign is considered, which indicates the ingress of fluid from the cooling system into the cylinders.
What is the result
In the event that the driver noted antifreeze leaks, but he cannot find the cause on his own, then you can visit a service station. A service check is usually a pressure increase in the cooling system using special equipment, after which the system is carefully checked.
Also note that the search for subtle leaks, for example, a slight leak of antifreeze from under, can be facilitated by the use of antifreezes, which contain special fluorescent dyes. We add that these dyes are commercially available separately, so that they can be added to the tank with the existing antifreeze.
Finally, it should be recalled once again that in the cold season it is highly recommended not to add ordinary or distilled water to the antifreeze in case of a decrease in the level in the tank. The fact is that adding water, especially frequent, can lead to the fact that the recommended ratio of water and concentrate will be violated, the coolant will begin to freeze in the system. As a result, the risk of serious damage to the cooling system or even the engine itself is greatly increased.
Read also
The principle of operation of the sealant for the engine cooling system. When to use sealant, what results to expect. Possible consequences, adviсe.
Reliable driving depends on how the power unit works. If the engine overheats during a trip, this is the first sign of an urgent replacement of antifreeze. After all, the coolant is a very important component for the operation of the car. The functioning of the power unit depends on its quality. When replacing, you must be serious about her choice. It is not difficult to change the antifreeze yourself, but you must follow all the recommendations of the car manufacturer.
Terms of coolant replacement in Opel Zafira
It is necessary to replace antifreeze after 5 years of operation or 250 thousand km at the first replacement. This is not the only reason that requires its change. Antifreeze should be changed if the level of antifreeze from leaks has decreased, the level from overheating of the motor has decreased, it is necessary to repair it or replace a part of the cooling system in Opel Zafira.
When changing, you need to know well how much antifreeze should be poured into the Opel Zafira after washing. In order to calculate the volume, it is known that three liters of concentrate is sufficient for the cooling system, which is additionally diluted with distilled water. The volume will require no more than 6 liters of liquid.
The process of replacing antifreeze
Replacing antifreeze in an Opel Zafira is not a difficult process, but when it is done, accuracy and safety are required:
- The liquid is toxic, so you need to work with gloves.
- Tosol should be changed or added only when the engine is cold.
- Before changing, prepare a container for draining.
- It is necessary to make a replacement far from people, water bodies.
Preparation and list of materials
To perform the work, careful preparation is necessary for replacing antifreeze in the Opel Zafira. When changing the coolant, it is necessary to prepare the necessary instruments:
- Screwdrivers of the right size;
- Rubber shoes and gloves;
- Capacity for draining waste material;
- Watering can and drain hose.
To work with a car you need:
- Install the car on a flyover, on a convenient hill;
- Turn off the engine and wait 20 minutes.
Instructions for changing the fluid
Replacing antifreeze in an Opel Zafira b is not a difficult process, but everything must be done in turn.
The first step is to drain the old mixture. For this you need to follow the following steps:
- Open the lid of the antifreeze tank;
- Open the radiator cap;
- Substitute a container under the drain;
- Unscrew the drain plug from the radiator and drain the liquid;
- Drain the rest of the waste fluid from the engine and nozzles;
- Remove the main pipe that goes to the radiator;
- Inspect the system hoses for cracks or damage;
- Put the pipe on the radiator and tighten all the plugs.
The next step when changing antifreeze is flushing the cooling system. For this you should use special remedy which is diluted with water. When buying a flushing agent, you should read the instructions for diluting it. Having prepared the mixture, you must:
- Warm up the engine to the desired operating temperature;
- turn it off;
- Pour the flush into the expansion tank of the radiator;
- Start the engine and let it run for 30 minutes;
- Turn off the engine;
- Drain the flushing fluid.
A special wash mix is used for the first wash. If the process needs to be repeated, use distilled water. After flushing the cooling system, fill in a new antifreeze for the Opel Zafira a. To do this, dilute antifreeze - concentrate. It contains concentrated additives.
To obtain a coolant with a freezing point of -40 C, it is necessary to dilute the concentrate with water 1: 1. It is recommended to dilute with distilled water. It should be remembered: it is necessary to fill in new antifreeze only in clean system cooling. Having filled in a new mixture, it is necessary to turn on the engine and the stove to the maximum. This will help to evenly distribute the antifreeze throughout the system and push the air out of it.
Fluid replacement in other Opel cars
Changing antifreeze for other brands of Opel must comply with the operating conditions of the car, the expiration date and the coolant compatibility rules. For Opel Zafira a, they recommend the type of antifreeze G12 carboxylate class, Opel Zafira b - G12 + carboxylate class, Opel Mokka and Opel Meriva - G12 ++ lobrid class.
Prehistory: I bought a car, there is oil in the antifreeze tank. The owner said that the heat exchanger gaskets changed. Apparently the old oil remains. Drained - antifreeze ideally (the transparent color is bright, without oil), but there is oil in the tank on the walls, in the nozzles there are also flakes on the walls, but rare. Washed long and hard. Only Felix took the tank, only Felix coped with the system (before him, there was one more remedy, but there was little use besides foam). Filled with new antifreeze - everything returned to normal. Oil did not appear (for 2 weeks).
The story itself: in general, antifreeze is leaving. It only goes away when the car is cold. On hot - in any. The official did not find a hot leak. I stole it from him to the garage, let the car cool down (2-3 hours), blew into the tank and everything began to clear up. Dripping under the oil exchanger (yes, yes, he is).
Here are the pics:
the most understandable photo for "orientation" from under the car. On the left is the pump, in the middle is the oil dipstick tube, on the right is the lower manifold bank.
Here it is from different angles:Plans: disassemble on their own. Look at the location of the leak for more details. If not clear, use sealant for all gaskets. If it is clear - change a specific gasket or several.
Questions (to make cheap and cheerful):
1) What kind of gasket can leak and how to understand it if everything is disassembled.
2) Is it worth it to overpay for the original?
3) Normal manufacturer of non-original gaskets.
4) Share your experience of using sealant (red) in these works.Car mileage 115 thousand. Gaskets supposedly changed at 100 - 105.
