The drill is the most common power tool in everyday life and construction. But sooner or later the device may require repair. Read below to learn how to troubleshoot basic problems yourself.
Design and malfunctions of an electric drill
Drills can come in different sizes and colors, but the pattern inside is always the same.
The main components of an impact drill:
- Metal gearbox housing.
Induction rings.
Capacitor.
Network cable.
Reverse button.
Speed regulator.
Electric motor.
Start button.
Button to switch between normal and shock modes.
A simple drill without an impact mechanism does not have a metal gear housing. The shaft and gear bearings are inserted into the drill body.
Basic drill malfunctions:
- Doesn't turn on. Causes: damage to the power cord, wires inside the drill, start button, or start capacitor.
- Engine malfunctions.
- Broken or worn brushes.
- Sparks, smokes, crackles, unpleasant smell. The reason is the brushes or the motor.
- Loss of power occurs due to a faulty armature.
- Damage to the power, reverse, and speed control buttons.
- Bearing wear.
Poor chuck clamp.
Engine faults:
- Shaft deformation.
- Making an anchor.
- Failure to secure the poles to the frame in the stator.
- Short circuit to body or between turns.
Winding wire rupture due to overload or abrasive dust.
All of these faults, with the exception of engine faults, are easy to fix yourself. Engine repair is possible if you have certain skills and knowledge. Sometimes it's easier to take it to a workshop or buy and install a new one. Installing any new unit is cheaper than repairing it in a workshop, since professionals charge a fee equal to the cost of the unit for one replacement.
Video: drill device
- The drill should not operate for more than 20–25 minutes continuously after being plugged in.
- It is necessary to clean the cartridge from dirt and lubricate it.
Do not overheat the device to the point of burning your hands.
Do not use very dull drills.
DIY drill repair
In order to find the fault, the drill must be disassembled.
How to disassemble the tool
Some drills have an additional handle and a drill depth limiter.
It is necessary to loosen the clamp and pull the handle through the chuck.
For other models, an additional handle is screwed into the drill body.
If there is a pad on the drill handle that connects the two halves of the body, then it is pryed off with a flat screwdriver and removed.
- Unscrew all fasteners and remove the upper part of the housing. Note that the two screws where the housing holds the chuck shaft are shorter than the others.
- Unscrew the screws securing the cord to the body. Carefully remove the wires and other components of the drill from their grooves.
- Remove the brushes and brush holders from their sockets.
The chuck with the shaft and large gear 2 is easily detached from the drill body. Remove the metal housing of the gearbox 1 along with the engine. There is a ball on the shaft that cannot be lost, because it will be difficult to pick up the same one.
Remove the stator.
Remove the gear housing from the motor spindle.
Replacing brushes
Signals for checking the condition of the brushes are sparking in the commutator area, a decrease in speed and heating of the drill. If these problems do not exist, then the condition of the brushes should be checked periodically. If at least one of the brushes is worn by 40 percent, replace both. Disassemble the drill body. The brushes are removed along with the brush holders. Some models have plugs on the body that can be unscrewed.
Brush removal plugs
The brush is removed from the brush holder and a new one is inserted in its place.
Video: replacing drill brushes
Power button, soft start and speed controller
The drill speed controller can be combined with a soft start, either placed in a separate wheel on the body, or the wheel is installed on the start button.
Design and principle of operation of a button with a speed controller:
The speed controller, like the soft start, fails due to a faulty microcircuit. If it is located separately from the power button, disassemble the case, disconnect the contacts and replace it with a new one. If the regulator is mounted on a button, disassemble the housing and remove the power button from it.
Replacing a button is easier than disassembling and repairing it, because there are many small parts in it. But if you decide, then carefully disassemble the button body so as not to lose the jumping springs.
- Using a knife or flat-head screwdriver, carefully pry up the latches and latches. Remove the cover.
The contact pads are erased and dust is formed, which settles inside the plastic box. Dielectric surfaces become conductors of electric current. Because of this, the speed and soft start are not regulated. Remove metal dust with cotton wool soaked in alcohol. The contacts can be scraped with a knife, but not with sandpaper, so as not to spoil their surface.
Remove the chip from the other half of the button body. Ring all elements. Replace damaged ones.
Often cleaning the inside of the button body will restore its functionality.
Reverse does not work or the drill does not turn to the right
When the rotor rotates forward, the end of the first stator winding is connected to the first brush. In reverse to the second. This switching occurs in the reverse button. If the drill stops turning in one direction or the other, it means the circuit is not closing. It is necessary to diagnose the button and, in case of malfunction, replace it or disassemble it and clean the contacts.
The reverse rings out in several steps:
- Set the reverse flag to the right position.
- Insert the multimeter leads into the two holes on one side of the reverse button. Check if the device beeps. Now insert the probes into the two holes on the other side. There is a sound signal on both sides, which means the right reverse position is working.
- Now set the reverse to the left position.
Insert the probes into two holes, but on different sides of the button. Then into the other two holes. Check the multimeter beep.
If there is no ringing at least at one stage, the button is faulty. You can take it apart. If the contacts close in both positions of the switch, then clean them and ring again. If it doesn't help, then replace the button.
Take a pin, insert it into the hole and remove the wire. Remove all wires in the same way.
Wires from the stator and brushes are connected to the reverse. They are connected diagonally, so draw a diagram so as not to confuse them later. Or tape labels to each wire.
Connecting a drill to a cable without a button
Remove the power button. It includes two cores of the network cable. If the drill had a reverse, then two wires come out from the stator and brushes. There are four in total. To connect them to two wires of the network cable, do the following:
- Connect the two ends of different stator windings to each other and connect to the brush.
Connect the other two connected ends of the stator and the wire from the second brush to the network wires.
Carefully insulate connections.
Low and high rotation speeds
If the drill does not work at low speeds, check the soft start and speed controller. If it only runs at low speeds and gets hot, additionally check the motor brushes and commutator wear.
Drill won't turn on
Charge the battery in the cordless drill. If this does not help or the drill is corded, remove the top cover of the case and check the following elements with a multimeter:
Power cord.
Start capacitor.
Start button.
Contacts.
If all wires and contacts are intact, press the start button and check the operation of the engine.
The drill crackles but doesn't spin
Disassemble the housing and turn on the engine. If it works, it means that the teeth of the large gear of the gearbox have worn out. If the motor does not work, check the brushes, stator and rotor windings.
Rotor repair
Before taking the device for diagnostics, inspect the commutator and winding.
It may be damaged. If the wiring is melted, the burnt insulating varnish will leave black marks or a specific smell. You may see bent or crumpled coils or conductive particles, such as solder residue. These particles cause short circuits between turns. Commutator damage: raised, worn or burnt plates.
Carry out diagnostics with a multimeter:
The anchor can be saved if the balance is not disturbed. If during operation of the device you hear an intermittent hum and there is strong vibration, then this is an imbalance. This anchor must be replaced. And the winding and commutator can be repaired. Small short circuits are eliminated. If a significant part of the winding is damaged, it can be rewound. Worn and badly damaged lamellas should be sharpened, extended or soldered. In addition, you should not undertake anchor repairs if you are unsure of your capabilities. It is better to replace it or take it to a workshop for repairs.
To replace the armature, you need to disassemble the drill, remove it from the stator and disconnect it from the gearbox.
Video: replacing the drill rotor
A collector that is not very worn out can be corrected by grooving. But if the plates have worn down to the plastic base or are partially burnt out, then restoration is carried out by soldering or galvanic extension.
If the collector has been completely worn out, then after soldering it will last no more than a month of active use. And plates that are not completely damaged after such repairs can withstand several replacements of brushes and do not become desoldered. You will need to cut the copper plates to size and solder them with plenty of solder. File off the excess and sand it.
When electroplated, reduced copper is very hard.
The service life of the collector is like new. Galvanic extension can be used to restore both a completely worn out collector and partially damaged plates. The restored commutator must be sharpened and the plates separated using a drill or hacksaw blade.
Rewinding the armature
- Write down or sketch the direction of the winding.
- Use a hacksaw or wire cutters to remove the frontal parts of the winding.
Carefully, without damaging the slot insulators, knock out the rods of the remaining parts of the winding using a hammer and metal chisel.
Use a file to remove any remaining impregnation. Count the conductors in the slot and measure the diameter of the wire. Draw a diagram. Cut cardboard sleeves for insulation and insert them into the grooves.
After winding, weld the section leads to the collector plates. Check the winding with a tester.
Impregnate the winding with epoxy resin.
Stator repair
Checking the performance of the stator with a multimeter:
- Set the resistance mode to 200 Ohms. Connect the probes of the device to the ends of one winding. One means an open circuit, and zero means a short circuit between the turns. If it shows resistance of more than 1.5 ohms, then check the second winding. Both windings should have approximately the same resistance.
Now you need to check that there is no breakdown to ground, that is, the winding is shorted to the metal stator housing. Set the multimeter to maximum resistance mode. Connect one probe to the end of the winding, the other probe to the metal stator housing. A unit indicates the absence of a breakdown.
You can rewind a damaged stator winding yourself. This is much easier than rewinding the armature. For high-quality winding of coils you will need enamel wire and electrical cardboard.
Replacing armature bearings
The armature has two bearings of different sizes. The larger one is located on the impeller side. The bearings are removed with a special puller. But if it is not there, then you need to hang the anchor on metal plates so that the bearing is above the plates and the anchor is below. Tap the shaft with a piece of wood to dislodge it from the bearing.
A long ¼-inch socket is used to crimp the new bearing shaft onto the shaft.
Take the head and rest it against the inner race of the bearing.
Tap it with a hammer.
Place the metal gear housing onto the bearing.
Tap it lightly with a hammer to get it into place.
If the drill battery does not charge
If the battery does not hold a charge, disassemble it. It consists of several batteries. Check the voltage in each with a tester. Replace the non-working element.
Diagnose the charger:
The support plate flies off
The drill can be used to grind various materials using special attachments. For this, a support plate is purchased.
It can be plastic or rubber. Sandpaper is attached to it in two ways: with Velcro or with a pressure washer. Plates have their disadvantages:
Therefore, it is better to purchase a plastic support plate with a pressure washer. Or with a movable shank. These plates are the most reliable and easy to use.
But if you happen to have a rubber plate, you can remake it.
Replacing the impact mechanism
Impact drill gear elements:
When you start the drill, the motor and spindle rotate. Rotation is transmitted from the spindle to the large gear of the gearbox. When the blow is turned on, the shaft goes deeper into the gearbox housing, and the teeth connect and engage. The shaft rotates and the ratchets bounce off each other. A reciprocating motion is formed. When the drill starts working without impact, the switch itself plays the role of a limiter. It prevents the shaft from descending into the gearbox housing so deeply that these teeth touch each other. There are types of switches:
There is a bearing in the gear housing on the switch itself. When the shockless mode is turned on, the shaft rests against this bearing.
Some drills do not have a bearing, but have a notch on the switch shaft. When the shaft hits it when turning the switch, it falls through and the shock is activated.
Third models have a switch bar with a hole. The principle of operation is the same. When modes are frequently switched, wear develops on the bar, and the blow stops turning off, since the shaft is in a recessed position.
If the impact mechanism wears out, the unit must be replaced.
Drill chuck repair
The chucks that are installed on modern drills are divided into the following types:
- Key. One of the most common types. To secure the equipment, you will need a wrench, which is used to firmly tighten the cartridge in three holes. Typically used in impact drills, where the chance of the drill turning during operation is much higher than with a hammerless drill.
Quick-clamping. There are single-coupling and double-coupling, metal and plastic. Replacement of equipment occurs without the help of a key. It has a drawback - it is not the most reliable fixation.
Morse cone. This cartridge is universal and very reliable. The equipment fits in it like a glove and does not turn. Any other type of cartridge can be installed on a Morse taper using an adapter. This chuck is not installed on household drills.
If you need to replace the drill chuck, open the jaws and check for the screw that secures the chuck to the shaft. If it is present, it needs to be unscrewed. A screw that is difficult to unscrew is treated with WD-40 aerosol or brake fluid. Unscrew the cartridge itself from the shaft. In the case of a Morse taper, the cartridge is knocked off the shaft with a mallet or wooden stick. It fits in the same way.
Not every chuck will fit every drill. Chucks vary in size and the diameter of the rig they can hold. If the outer diameter of the new chuck is larger, you will not be able to attach an additional handle to the drill. Check the match between the chuck threads and the drill spindle threads. For drills of different functionality, the chucks are different. For example, there are chucks that are only suitable for hammerless drills or cannot work in reverse rotation. And there are universal chucks that fit all types of drills. Keyless chucks and key chucks with the same thread are interchangeable. Regardless of their size. If you do not need to put an additional handle through the cartridge, then this replacement option is possible.
Due to the clogging of construction debris into the chuck, the equipment is poorly clamped with jaws. Therefore, it must be disassembled and cleaned. And replace damaged parts. Particularly difficult is the analysis of the key cartridge.
The clip fits tightly onto the bushing, so we will use a hammer and a vice.
- Place the chuck on the vice so that the bushing with the jaws faces up.
- Place a metal plate on top and hit it with a sharp blow with a hammer. The sleeve with all its contents will go down.
- Remove the clip and the washer, consisting of two halves. Remove the jaws. Number them and the seats on the bushing so that they fit into their sockets during assembly.
- Put all the parts back. Put on the clip. Insert the chuck into the vise, but now with the jaws facing down. The cams should be hidden inside. Place a metal plate on the base of the bushing and drive it into the cage.
Hide your fists.
Check the integrity of all parts. Replace damaged ones.
Use a brush to clean the parts from debris. Rinse with kerosene or diesel fuel. Lubricate the CV joint with grease. It is better than Litol in that it does not allow moisture to pass through and is intended for highly rubbing mechanisms.
You can repair the drill yourself by studying its structure and the principles of operation of individual components.
One of the visitors from the Republic of Bashkortostan wrote to me about two weeks ago. He liked the circuit of an electronic speed controller for a micro drill on Radiokot, but it has several disadvantages: greater heat generation LM317 and a low maximum current of 1.5A. He suggested using the LM2596 module instead of LM317 to increase the output current to 3A.
The idea is good in concept, but I’ll tell you about how to adapt the module to the control circuit.
To begin with, I will propose a modified circuit by Alexander Savov on LM317
The meaning of this circuit is that when there is no load on the drill shaft, the engine speed is minimal, but as soon as it is loaded a little, the speed jumps to the maximum possible. All this is implemented using a current sensor on R6 and a comparing comporator with a threshold slightly higher than the drop on the shunt
I decided to try this scheme with a canopy and the scheme works quite well. The engine under load was used from a 12V screwdriver 
Using the same method on the current sensor, I redesigned the circuit for LM2596, slightly reworking the module and adding a Savov circuit to it. Here's what I got
I connected the module with the motor to 12V, set the trimmer resistor on the module to the minimum engine speed, approximate resistance 5kOhm. After the changeover, I unsoldered and installed a 5.1 kOhm resistor; in the diagram this resistor is indicated as R11. Now I installed a key on the fourth leg, shunting it to the ground. I connected a current detector to the key and began testing. I measured the drop on the R8R9 shunt, set the voltage on the 2nd leg with the R7 trimmer to a few millivolts more than on the 3rd leg. The circuit worked rather sluggishly, it took a long time to turn on, then it took a long time to turn off. By selecting a resistor in the feedback and C8, we were able to achieve stable operation.
This is what a mounted drill speed controller looks like 
In principle, the circuit turned out to be quite working and has the right to life, but we must take into account that LM358 must be powered from a stabilized voltage, so it is recommended to set it to .
I’m not going to implement a drill speed controller on a printed circuit board, I already have a machine, but I’ll print it for you a little later, I don’t have time right now
I would also like to note that the LM2596 module used was provided by a friend from Bashkortostan, he has a website SolBatCompany.Ru, selling solar panels and various electronic modules, I recommend checking it out. You can buy such a module in China for only 50 rubles, here is the link
Using the assembled speed controller, I made a short video of its operation.
All budget angle grinder options have several disadvantages. Firstly, there is no soft start system. This is a very important option. Surely all of you have plugged this powerful power tool into the network, and when you start it, you have observed how the intensity of the light bulb, which is also connected to this network, drops.
This phenomenon occurs due to the fact that powerful electric motors consume huge currents at the moment of starting, due to which the network voltage sags. This can damage the tool itself, especially those made in China with unreliable windings that may one day burn out during startup.
That is, the soft start system will protect both the network and the tool. In addition, at the moment of starting the tool, a powerful kickback or push occurs, and if a soft start system is implemented, this, of course, will not happen.
Secondly, there is no speed regulator, which will allow you to work with the tool for a long time without loading it.
The diagram presented below is from an industrial design:
It is introduced by the manufacturer into expensive devices.
You can connect not only the grinder to the circuit, but also, in principle, any devices - drills, milling machines and lathes. But taking into account the fact that the tool must have a commutator motor.
This will not work with asynchronous motors. A frequency converter is required there.
So, you need to make a printed circuit board and start assembling.
A dual operational amplifier LM358 is used as a regulating element, which, using transistor VT1, controls the power triac.
So, the power link in this circuit is a powerful triac of the BTA20-600 type.
There was no such triac in the store and I had to buy a BTA28. It is a little more powerful than what is shown in the diagram. In general, for motors with a power of up to 1 kW, you can use any triac with a voltage of at least 600 V and a current of 10-12 A. But it is better to have some reserve and take 20 A triacs, they still cost a penny.
During operation, the triac will heat up, so it is necessary to install a heat sink on it.
To avoid any questions about the fact that the engine, when starting, can consume currents that significantly exceed the maximum current of the triac, and the latter can simply burn out, remember that the circuit has a soft start, and starting currents can be ignored.
Surely everyone is familiar with the phenomenon of self-induction. This effect occurs when a circuit to which an inductive load is connected is opened.
It's the same in this scheme. When the power supply to the motor suddenly stops, the self-induction current from it can burn the triac. And the snubber circuit dampens self-induction.
The resistor in this circuit has a resistance of 47 to 68 ohms, and a power of 1 to 2 W. Film capacitor for 400 V. In this embodiment, self-induction is a side effect.
Resistor R2 provides current suppression for the low voltage control circuit.
The circuit itself, to some extent, is both a load and a stabilizing link. Thanks to this, after the resistor it is possible not to stabilize the power supply. Although the network has the same circuits with an additional zener diode, it is pointless to use it, since the voltage at the power pins of the operational amplifier is within normal limits.
Possible replacement options for low-power transistors can be seen in the following picture:
The PCB that was mentioned earlier is only a soft starter board and does not have any speed control components. This was done on purpose, since in any case the regulator must be output via wires.
The regulator is adjusted using a 100 kOhm multi-turn trimmer resistor.
If you need a more powerful regulator, it can be assembled according to the following scheme:
If everything is in order, then after disconnecting from the network, you immediately need to check the triac by touch - it should be cold.
If everything works fine - the grinder starts smoothly and the speed is regulated - then it’s time to start testing under load.
Attached files:
Scheme for connecting an analogue CCTV camera to a TV or computer Connecting a digital CCTV camera
So, the article by Alexey Sidorkin:
I think every person has had more than one event or incident in their life for which they could not find a suitable explanation, remaining a secret for a long time. This happened with my drill.
My son-in-law Dmitry acquired this Bosch PSB 500 RE drill in May 1998 to furnish his newly acquired apartment. At that time, not everyone had such a prestigious tool (power 500 W, speed control, reverse rotation, impact mode - “hammer”) on the household. The purchase aroused quiet envy - I had a simple Soviet drill without any bells and whistles. My daughter gave the Bosch drill later after the tragic death of her son-in-law during an accident in 2002.
Of course, my use of the tool was not “every day from morning to evening”; the drill was used for everyday needs, as in most ordinary families, plus the summer season at the dacha.
Fig.1. General view of the BoschPSB 500 RE drill.
The drill worked properly, successfully performing all its options and functions... and suddenly 5-6 years ago the speed regulator stopped “obeying” - no matter the position/setting of the regulator wheel/handwheel, when you press the trigger, the drill immediately made full revolutions without any smoothness. The first thing that came to mind as to why there were no low speeds was that the drill’s speed control circuit had burned out. But by that time, other tools appeared on the farm, including a screwdriver and another drill in the village, and the operation of the Bosch drill in low speed mode was not so relevant, and we never got around to fixing the problem.
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Just recently I had to carefully work with a drill, and its high speed turned out to be very inappropriate, and there were no other tools with a chuck at hand. Not far from the house there is a workshop for repairing household appliances. They told me that the speed controller (hereinafter referred to as RO) for the Bosch drill is only “made to order”, wait at least 2 months, the cost of work is 500 rubles.
I decided to figure it out on my own, after all, I am a power equipment technician, albeit retired.
He's an adjuster himself, but he went to the workshop? If it’s urgent, and for a couple of hundred (previously it was called “per bottle”), then there’s no point in “uncovering your rifle,” others should also be allowed to live.
I opened the drill, disconnected the RO (two detachable electrical contacts of the knife type, two “for screws” and one screw securing the power wire - Fig. 2).
Rice. 2. Connecting the speed controller in the drill.
The drill speed controller is a separate unit. In Fig. 3, almost life-size, there are two halves (lid and body) of an already opened RO, the material is plastic, the halves are fixed between each other “with latches.”
Rice. 3. Drill speed controller with cover removed
Figure 3 shows: 1 – contact group; 2 – sliding contacts; 3 – resistor strips; 4 – adjusting screw handwheel; 5 – trigger return spring.
The housing of the speed controller for the drill contains a contact group 1 and sliding contacts 2 in the form of two spring plates, driven by pressing the trigger and returning to their original position under the influence of the return spring 5.
The cover contains a capacitor (bottom) and a board (top) with electronic elements and two resistor strips 3, along which, when the trigger is pressed, contacts 2 slide to smoothly change the speed of the tool. A special lubricant is applied to the resistor strips to protect the strips, reduce friction and prevent sparking of the sliding contacts.
An adjusting screw with a handwheel 4 on the trigger limits the depth of the trigger press and the distance/length of sliding of the contacts 2 along the resistor strips 3, thereby determining the range of regulation and the maximum speed of the drill. If the adjusting screw is turned out completely, then the trigger, when fully pressed, closes the contact group to directly turn on the drill motor, bypassing the electronic adjusting elements, and the engine runs at the highest possible speed (3000 rpm).
The drill speed controller circuit is almost identical. The only differences are in design and dimensions.
The scope of my work included checking the precise operation of the trigger when pressed, the interaction of the parts of the contact group, the rotation of the adjusting screw, leveling the distribution of lubricant on the resistor strips, and cleaning accessible areas from accumulated dust and dirt. No malfunctions, malfunctions or suspicious aspects were found. In other words, I carried out a small inspection, after which I assembled the drill, turned it on and... the speed controller is working , as if nothing had happened!
Thus, repairing the Bosch drill speed controller was reduced to simple cleaning!
Many assumptions could be made regarding the reasons for the temporary malfunction of the drill - from a blow or an unnoticed fall of the tool to problems with electronic components. However, an analysis of the situation still tends to disrupt the operation of the “sliding contacts - resistor strips” pair for some unknown reason; it is enough for a speck (particle) to simply get under one of the sliding contacts - and that’s it, there will be no adjustment. This is also evidenced by turning on the tool immediately at full speed, which is only possible when the contact group is triggered.
What's new in the VK group? SamElectric.ru ?
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But, whatever you say, it turns out that the instrument turned out to be electrician himself and repaired himself!
Question from a reader
Reader Alexander contacted me by email with the following request:
Good evening. I came across your blog where you repair a Bosch drill. I have a similar problem, but I have almost nothing to do with electronics. Stupidly I disassembled the trigger of a Bosch GSB 1600 RE drill. Everything worked great before, I put it together somehow, but now the soft start doesn’t work. Perhaps I’m putting the parts in the wrong order and in the wrong place. I am attaching a photo of the disassembled one. I hope this helps, the drill is good.
Photo of a disassembled Bosch drill button:
Bosch drill repair. The disassembled trigger is a button with a speed control.
Bosch drill repair. Disassembled trigger - button
I don't know how to help the reader. Maybe someone can share their experience?
When overloaded (drilling a large number of holes in concrete, for example), the FIT electric drill often breaks down the speed controller combined with the power button. To repair it, you must first carefully disassemble the drill, remove the regulator from it and disconnect the wires from it, having previously written down which wire is connected to which contact.
The regulator body is disassembled by bending the sides and removing the cover from the clamps, without glue. We must be careful and leisurely - there are 2 springs there that miss the light and flying))).
With the mechanics, everything is not difficult - we clean the contacts and rinse them with alcohol to remove dirt. The board with the circuit can be easily removed by first sliding the copper squares of the clamp-contacts out of the grooves. The only element of the circuit that fails is the triac. We find it and “neutralize” it by removing the conductors suitable for it (we bury it on the spot).
We make a tap from the control electrode with a thin stranded wire (to fit under the cover) and lead it into the existing hole during assembly. Reassembling the regulator is not a problem (if you are careful and deliberate!). From the regulator terminals (not from the phase terminal) we make 2 additional ones. outlet with a flexible wire for connecting a triac. It becomes a remote element of the regulator. (there is enough space in the handle for its location).