Washing machines wear out and break down over time. Most often they are simply thrown into a landfill. However, in many cases, parts from a washing machine can come in handy. There are many options for the second life of an electric motor. It all depends on the skills, capabilities and imagination of the home craftsman. In this article you will learn where you can use the motor from a washing machine, if it is in working condition. Let's look at what homemade products you can make from a washing machine engine.
Electric motor for a grinder or emery
Purchasing a ready-made sharpening machine is not always possible, primarily due to the high price, and in this case an electric motor from a washing machine or other equipment literally becomes indispensable.
A lot of effort requires the correct layout of the future unit, as well as solving such a technical problem as attaching a grindstone to the motor shaft. In many cases, there is no thread on it, and the diameters of the shaft and the hole in the stone do not match. The usual way out is to use a special part, which must be ordered separately from a turner's workshop. This part may be called a flange, adapter, hub, etc.
The flange to be machined must be fitted onto the shaft and secured with a bolt. In addition, you will need a washer and a nut with threads directed in the direction opposite to the rotation of the motor shaft. Due to this, spontaneous tightening of the nut will occur during operation. Otherwise, the nut will quickly unwind and the stone will fly off.
If necessary, you can change the direction of rotation of the rotor. Washing machines are installed, therefore, it is enough to switch the corresponding windings, and the direction of rotation will change. To start the engine you will need a starter coil. If it is missing, then there is nothing to worry about: when you push the stone in the right direction, the device will work on its own.
To make a sharpening machine, it is not at all necessary to use high-power engines. 400 W is quite enough, and even 100-200 W. You should pay attention to the number of revolutions per minute, which should not exceed 3000. Otherwise, a motor with too high a rotation speed may lead to destruction of the grindstone. The best option is an electric motor with 1000 rpm.
Operating a homemade sharpening machine requires strict adherence to safety regulations. First of all, it is necessary to provide a protective casing to protect the worker from abrasive dust and small debris. For this purpose, metal 2.0-2.5 mm thick in the form of a strip folded into a half ring is suitable. In addition, it will be necessary to make a tool rest to ensure the support of the workpieces.
Converting a washing machine motor into a generator
Many home craftsmen are engaged in the manufacture of homemade generators using electric motors from household appliances, including washing machines. This task is fraught with certain difficulties, primarily of a technical nature. The services of a qualified turner will be required at the first stage of work.
The first step is to disassemble the asynchronous motor removed from the faulty washing machine. Then the core falls into the hands of a turner, who removes a layer of the element 2 mm deep on the machine. Then grooves are cut into the core to a depth of 5 mm, into which neodymium magnets will be inserted. It is recommended to make the grooves after purchasing the magnets, when their dimensions become known.
After completing all the work, it is necessary to attach neodymium magnets to the core. For this purpose, a template is made from tin or other thin metal. Its dimensions must match the dimensions of the core and the width of the slots, and it must fit exactly where the magnets will be installed. The magnets are located on the core at the same distance from each other and are secured with glue. In addition to the distance, the angle of inclination of each element is of great importance. Deviations from the standard dimensions can cause sticking, as a result of which the power of the generator is noticeably reduced.
Cold welding is used to fill the gaps between the magnets. Finally, the rotor surface is sanded with sandpaper, after which the device is completely assembled.
The assembled generator must be tested. For this purpose, you will need a small battery, a rectifier, a multimeter and a charge controller. The connection occurs according to a certain scheme. The charge controller is connected to the two generator windings through a rectifier. Then the controller and multimeter need to be connected to the battery.
For normal testing, it is necessary to ensure rotation of the electric motor rotor. This operation cannot be performed manually, so you must use a drill or screwdriver. The tool is connected to the motor rotor, after which rotation begins at a speed of approximately 800-1000 rpm. When the generator is assembled well, the output voltage is 220-300 V. A lower voltage indicates poor-quality rotor assembly.
After assembly and testing, the generator can be used. This will require the energy required to rotate the rotor. You can connect to a small internal combustion engine, such as a chainsaw or motorcycle. However, this method requires the purchase of energy. Therefore, other options are recommended, relatively inexpensive and environmentally friendly, related to the use of wind or water energy.
All home craftsmen should remember that the electric motor from a washing machine can be converted into a generator with a power of no more than 5 kW. Typically, such devices produce an average of 2 kW, sufficient for 1-2 rooms or a bathhouse. So it will not be possible to completely replace the electrical network with a homemade generator.
Lathe made from a washing machine engine
The motor from a washing machine is ideal for making a small wood lathe. The basis of the design is a frame, which can be made from a corner, profile pipes and other available materials. The dimensions of the frame are within 100 x 20 cm, with possible deviations in one direction or another.
The electric motor is quite suitable from an old washing machine, perhaps even from Soviet times. For example, the Vyatka-automatic was equipped with an asynchronous motor with two speeds at 400 and 3000 rpm. The connection can be made according to all known schemes, including using a capacitor.
The engine-to-frame mounting system is made individually. The most important thing is that the motor axis is parallel to the supporting structure. This can be done using washers, which, if necessary, are placed at the support points. The headstock is attached to the electric motor pulley. The tailstock and guides are also made from improvised materials. The axis of the tailstock must be parallel to the frame and the headstock, that is, it must be centered.
An important detail is the tool rest, which serves as a support for the cutting tool. It is necessary to ensure its movement along and across the frame, as well as reliable fixation during operation.
Electric motor for wood splitter
The basis of the design, as in a lathe, is the bed. It is made of a metal profile or square. The resulting site will consist of two zones - power and working. The power side is intended for installation of an electric motor. It must be securely fastened, since the main load falls on it.
The engine control unit is located in the same area. A dielectric plate is provided to accommodate the electrical components, and they themselves should, if possible, be placed in a plastic housing. The work area is made in the form of a table. The material used is steel sheet, 2-3 mm thick. At the boundary that conventionally separates both zones, a pedestal is mounted on which the shaft of the splitting cone is fixed. This part must not be mounted directly on the motor shaft.
The cone shaft is equipped with its own bearing support. In order to compensate for jerks and create torque, it is recommended to install a flywheel on the shaft.
After assembling the entire structure, you can begin connecting the electric motor. Asynchronous motors are most often used. In older units of this type, a separate winding is provided for starting. To determine it on the engine, you need to use a tester to measure the resistance on each winding one by one. The desired winding will have a higher resistance. It is directly involved in creating primary torque in the desired direction. If it is necessary to change the direction of rotation of the shaft, the connection points of the starting winding are swapped.
Modern electric motors start much easier. To turn it on and off, you can use a regular household machine.
Concrete mixer from a washing machine
A concrete mixer is necessary on the farm, especially in private and country houses. However, concrete mixers are quite expensive, so one of the solutions to the problem would be to make a concrete mixer from improvised materials. The best choice is a washing machine, not only the electric motor, but also the body itself.
The base must be reliable so that the container does not wobble during rotation. The lifespan of the unit depends entirely on this. An unstable base can cause the container to fall and other elements to fail. A metal structure is considered the most suitable. If desired, it can be equipped with wheels. All parts and components are connected to each other using bolts or welding. To install the electric motor, you need to provide special shelves with holes for mounting. The gearbox is also mounted on the same shelf, the pulley of which must be in the same plane as the engine pulley. Otherwise, the motor will experience overload.
Turning on and off a homemade concrete mixer is done using a batch switch. In most cases, a capacitor is present in the switching circuit. Thus, thinking about what homemade products can be made from a washing machine engine, any home craftsman will practically make the device that is most needed in the household.
One of the most common reasons leading to the failure of the Vyatka-automatic washing machine is the failure of the electric motor winding (EM) in the control device drive. In repair shops, such a malfunction is usually eliminated by replacement. Moreover, they prefer to deal not with updating a burnt-out cheap winding or even with a “moody” electric motor, but with an expensive command apparatus (CA), in which all this is located as a “monolith” that cannot be disassembled.
A complex unit is replaced entirely, and no one cares about the client’s financial expenses. It is not surprising that the owner of a damaged washing machine strives to repair it on his own, regardless of time or lack of experience.
But L1, which only needs to be rewound, is nothing more than a coil (Fig. 1a) of a multi-pole electromagnet mounted on an axis and which is the rotor of an electric motor. You should also take into account other factors that complicate repairs. In particular, the fact that there is a gear at the end of the rotor. Of course, the ED also has a stator - a unique, stamped one. The electric motor is attached to the command device (Fig. 1b) with three pins that fit into holes in the spacecraft body and are slightly flared on the back side.
1 - coil frame; 2 - winding; 3 - output (2 pcs.); 4 - electric motor; 5 - command apparatus body; 6 - axis of the program selection knob; dimensions d, D and H - in accordance with the specific model of the washing machine
When disassembling this unit, it is necessary to ensure that the current-carrying conductors are not disconnected from the terminals. This precaution is dictated not only and not so much by the troublesomeness of restoring accidentally opened contacts, but by the difficulty of finding the disconnected terminals themselves.
Before removing the ED housing, it is advisable to apply control marks on it and on the spacecraft body, which will subsequently allow the entire structure to be correctly assembled with a new L1 wound independently. By inserting a screwdriver into the gap between the disconnected units and lightly pressing it, you can separate the motor from the control device and remove the burnt out winding. But this must be done carefully so as not to lose the overrunning clutch - a small plastic part located between the ED housing and the armature.
The biggest inconvenience is that the winding is filled with plastic. And you need to make a lot of effort in order to remove everything unnecessary and preserve the frame itself with minimal damage.
If this fails, then you will have to glue a new frame to the dimensions of the previous standard one (see Fig. 1a). And use thin getinax or fiberglass as the starting material. Thick electrical cardboard - pressboard - is also quite acceptable.
The factory (burnt) coil is wound with very thin wire. Reproducing exactly the same is probably meaningless. Moreover, the small thickness of the standard winding wire was most likely the cause of the failure.
A new coil is wound (before the frame is filled) with PETV2-0.14 wire. The conclusions are made quite strong and flexible, for which multi-core MGShV or its analogues are used. Otherwise, the ends of L1 may break under the influence of strong vibration loads that occur during operation of the washing machine. For the same reason, long, sagging conductors should not be left unsecured.
Since the resistance of the new L1 is much less than that of the old one, which had a nominal value of approximately 10 kOhm, the repaired electric motor is connected through a current-limiting RC circuit (Fig. 2). The capacitor and resistor are attached (for example, with insulating tape) to the wiring harness leading to the control device. This is done taking into account the necessary vibration resistance and mechanical strength, characteristic of units that are negatively affected by intense vibrations during operation. Particular attention is paid to ensuring proper reliability of electrical connections.
We have to take other “nuances” into account. In particular, that the pins of the ED housing are slightly filed before assembly, and then riveted to provide the necessary strength to the former “monolith”: the engine-command apparatus. Of course, we must not forget about the timely installation of the overrunning clutch.
A self-repaired engine works no worse than a new one, ensuring the normal functioning of the control device and the entire washing machine.
In addition to the burnout of the EM drive winding of the command device, the Vyatka-Avtomat also encounters another very tricky malfunction: if the sensor—the temperature relay—fails, the water in the tank begins to boil intensely. As a result, the front panel and a number of other parts of the washing machine, made of not very heat-resistant plastic, become deformed and fail.
The emerging emergency situation is aggravated by a powerful heater. The 10-amp current it consumes is switched directly by a sensor - a temperature relay TNZ type DRT-6-90. Perhaps the latter is designed for such a load, but it does not seem to have any reserve stock. Operating in an extremely heavy current mode leads to sintering of the sensor contacts, and the heater does not turn off normally when the water reaches a temperature of 90 °C. This results in unacceptable overheating of the tank along with its contents. In addition, the contacts of the command apparatus itself become unreliable.
The listed troubles can be avoided if you change the heater connection diagram by introducing triac VS1 into it (Fig. 4a). Since the latter dissipates significant power when operating, it must be installed on a radiator with a heat-emitting surface of about 500 cm 2 . It is advisable to select the triac itself with a margin of current and maximum operating voltage, because it will have to work at a fairly severe temperature regime, when the environment often warms up to 90 ° C. In addition to the TS122-20 (TS122-25) indicated on the circuit diagram, less powerful semiconductor devices can also be considered quite acceptable here. For example, triacs TS112-16 groups 7 (12).
In any case, the triac is mounted on a radiator, which is screwed with two M5 screws to a plate of 4 mm fiberglass. And that, in turn, is installed on the bracket (holder) of the main engine. Accordingly, two M6 holes are made in the holder for this purpose (Fig. 4b). The radiator is securely isolated from the engine housing. And this is important, because the voltage between the case and the radiator can reach up to 220 V.
1 - main engine bracket; 2 - M6 screw (2 pcs.); 3 - insulating board (fiberglass s4); 4 - M5 screw (2 pcs.); 5 - radiator; 5 - triac
An additional 510 Ohm resistor has a power of 2 W. For its desoldering, special racks are provided, mounted on a dielectric plate.
The entire structure must be designed to operate in conditions of high vibration and temperatures reaching 90 °C when the laundry is boiling. Requirements for connecting conductors: cross-section (in terms of copper) - at least 1.5 mm2, fastening - strong, clamping in the terminals - reliable, ensuring proper electrical contact.
A washing machine with such an improvement (Fig. 5) is no different in appearance from its standard counterparts. It has been working reliably for me for over seven years now.
V. SHCHERBATYUK, Minsk
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Schematic diagram of the washing machine “Vyatka-Avtomat”
| E1..E6 | Contacts on the noise filter | MPS | Pump |
| D1C, D, D3L | Hatch lock | R 1.2 | heating element (heater) |
| P 1,2,3 | Level sensor | MCML | Engine |
| TN1..TN3 | Temperature sensors for 40, 60, 90 degrees | M.T. | Command apparatus |
| SL1, SL2 | Indicators | Ez | Spark arrestor |
| EV1..EV4 | Cold and hot water valves | C1 | Capacitor |
| a) "Vyatka-Avtomat12" | b) "Vyatka-Avtomat-14" | ||
| c) "Vyatka-Avtomat-16" | d) "Vyatka-Avtomat" with a hatch locking device | ||
| d) "Vyatka-Avtomat" only from cold. water | f) "Vyatka-Avtomat" with FPS filter |
Design of the Vyatka-Avtomat washing machine
| 1 – detergent dispenser | 2 – support | ||
| 3 – tank suspension spring | 4 – hose | ||
| 5 – solenoid valve | 6 – washing tank | ||
| 7 – pulley | 8 – inlet hose | ||
| 9 – thermostat sensor | 10 – electric heater | ||
| 11 – electric motor | 12 – drain hose | ||
| 13 – level sensor tube | 14 – shock absorber plate |
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| 15 – capacitor | 16 – shock absorber spring |
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| 17 – friction disc | 18 – electric pump |
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| 19 – filter | 20 – drainage tube |
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| 21 – level sensor | 22 – counterweight |
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| 23 – command apparatus | 24 – indicator lamp |
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| 25 – program switch | 26 – command device handle |
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| 27 – front wall of the case | 28 – machine body |
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| 29 – hatch cover | 30 – housing cover |
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| 31 – dispenser box | 32 – inlet hose |
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| 33 – solenoid valve | |||
The machine operates from a cold and hot water supply network and is designed for washing, rinsing and spinning items made from all types of fabrics. It has front loading of laundry. The machine provides a choice of washing modes with a set of specific programs using low-foaming synthetic detergents. Programs are entered using the control knob of the command apparatus and special switches located on the front panel of the machine body. The machine is protected from water overflow and is equipped with a hydraulic filter that retains foreign bodies.
The connection between the filter cover and the housing is sealed and can withstand a pressure of 9.4 kPa. The design of the machine ensures complete drainage of liquid from the tank: the permissible remaining liquid in the hydraulic system is no more than 500 ml.
Regulation of programs and temperature of washing solutions when washing, rinsing and spinning products is carried out automatically. They only manually load the products and detergents, dial in the required program, turn off the machine and unload clean laundry.
The metal body of the machine 28 is made of sheet steel coated with white paint. The body consists of stamped parts connected by rivets and welding. The top of the case is closed with a metal cover 30, painted white and attached with self-tapping screws. Inside the housing there is a washing tank 6 with a two-speed electric motor 11 mounted on it to drive the washing tank. In the upper part of the housing there are: a connection block to the water supply network, consisting of two electromagnetic valves 5 and 33, connected by hoses 4 to a detergent dispenser 1, which provides the possibility of automatically introducing detergents, bluing and starching agents into the machine; capacitor 15 for the electric motor; liquid level sensor 21 connected to the bottom of the tank with a hose 13. On the upper part of the front wall 27 of the housing there is a push-button switch 25, which serves to select the economical washing and spinning mode; to the right of the switch there is a command device 23 and a neon lamp 24, signaling the operation of the electric motor 11. The control unit is covered with a plastic panel on which the handles 26 of the command device and the switch 25 are located; Here (on the left) there is a drawer 31 of the detergent dispenser and a panel with program inscriptions located under the handle of the dispenser drawer.
Washing tank 6 is made of carbon steel followed by hot enameling. The upper part of the washing tank is suspended from the machine body on two cylindrical springs 3. The springs are attached to the upper part of the body through supports 2. Metal springs are welded to the lower part of the washing tank on both sides: counterweights 22 made of concrete are mounted on the washing tank. A tubular electric heater 10 and a temperature sensor 9 are built inside the washing tank. A perforated washing drum with three ribs is installed in the washing tank. The axis of the washing drum is extended outside the latter through seals in a cast support attached to the rear wall of the washing tub. A pulley 7 is placed on the axle, connected by a V-belt to a pulley on the electric motor shaft. In the front wall of the washing tank there is a loading hole connected to the loading hatch using a fixed rubber cuff of a special profile. This part of the machine contains a drain electric pump 18 and a removable filter 19, the cover of which is located on the lower part of the front panel of the housing. The machine is equipped with a removable water inlet hose 8 and a drain hose 12. The presence of a rectangular hole in the rear of the machine that can be closed with a lid and the ability to remove the top cover provide convenient access to the structural elements and instruments of the machine, which is of great importance when repairing it.
No matter how high-quality household appliances are, they eventually become unusable. The same fate awaits washing machines, but they can be given a second life. It doesn’t matter when the household appliances were purchased; even the old Soviet Riga will be used. How connecting the motor from a washing machine to other appliances can make life easier will be described in detail later in the article.
Where can an electric motor be used?
Craftsmen have come up with dozens of options for using a motor from an old washing machine. But they all have the same concept - using the engine torque to start the operation of additional mechanisms. The following options are considered the most popular homemade products.
But before you start disassembling your washing machine, you should find out the type of electric motor you have. This will allow you to determine the scope of its application and the method of starting from the mains.
Types of engines
Important! There are only three types of motors installed on washing machines: asynchronous, commutator and direct (inverter).
Asynchronous
An asynchronous motor was installed in cars produced in the USSR (Riga-60, Vyatka-automatic). It consists of two parts: stator and rotor. The motor got its name because inability to rotate synchronously with the magnetic field(constantly lags behind). There are two options for an asynchronous motor: two- and three-phase. Older models (for example, Riga) had two-phase motors installed. But with the advent of the new millennium, such engines almost ceased to be produced.
Asynchronous motor of the washing machine Vyatka
Main dignity asynchronous motor:
- simple design;
- maintenance is limited to changing oil and bearings;
- minimum noise level during operation;
- cheapness.
Disadvantages The electric motors of the Donbass washing machine and other older models are considered to be dimensions, high electricity consumption and difficulty of setting.
To get an asynchronous motor(for example, from a Malyutka washing machine), you will have to disassemble the entire body. Then loosen the motor mounts, remove the belt and disconnect the retaining ring. After this, all that remains is to remove the pulley from the shaft and disconnect the electrical wires from the clamps.
Electric motor of the Malyutka washing machine
Collector
The commutator electric motor gradually began to displace the asynchronous motor from the household appliances market. The main advantage of its design is the ability to operate on both alternating and direct current. The rotation speed of the rotor directly depends on the applied voltage. In addition, such motors are capable of rotating in both directions. Commutator motors are found in most household appliances. So, they can be found in washing machines of the following models: INDESCO, C.E.S.E.T., WELLING, SELNI, FHP, SOLE, ACC.
Strengths of this device are:
- a large number of revolutions;
- smooth speed increase;
- compactness.
TO weaknesses can be attributed to a short lifespan.
Important! Often such motors break down due to an interturn short circuit, that is, the contacts on the rotor and commutator touch. Therefore, the magnetic field is weakened and the drum stops rotating.
The direct (inverter or brushless) type of electric motors is found only in modern models of washing machines (for example, Indesit). This technology hit the market just ten years ago. Unlike the previously mentioned designs, the motor is directly connected to the drum, without the use of intermediate parts.
TO pros automatic inverter motor include:
- long service life;
- wear resistance;
- compactness.
Main minus- high cost of production, which seriously affects the price for the user of the final product.
To dismantle the electric motor With a modern washing machine you need to remove the back (typical of Indesit, Zanussi, Ariston) or front (typical of Samsung, Bosch, LG) panel. If you only need to unscrew the bolts on the back wall, then from the front you will have to remove the control panel, base and top cover. The engine will be located at the bottom of the machine. To dismantle it, you need to remove the drive belt and disconnect the grounding and power wires. Next, you need to unscrew the motor mounts and remove the device by picking it up with a thin object. If all the screws are unscrewed, then you can use a little force, since the fasteners often stick.
Connection rules
When the type of electric motor installed on the old washing machine has been determined, you can begin connecting.
Advice! If you plan to use a powerful modern motor, you should remember the following points: capacitors are not needed for their operation, and a starting winding is also not required.
Before connecting a device with more than 3 pins to the network, you need to understand colors of wires, coming out of the transfer case:
- often white winding means that these wires belong to the tachogenerator; they will not be useful in the future;
- brown and red connected to the stator winding and rotor;
- gray and green wires are classified as graphite brushes.
Although this recommendation applies to most models, copies are produced that where colors may vary. To be sure of your choice, you need to ring all pairs using a tester and a multimeter. Those that go to the tachogenerator have a resistance of 60-70 Ohms.
Important! After connecting all the wires of a modern 6-pin engine, you can check the functionality of the device by connecting it to a car battery. When voltage is applied through the starting relay, it will immediately (without acceleration) begin to rotate. If the test has confirmed the effectiveness of the circuit, you can connect the motor to a 220-volt network, having first firmly secured the motor.
IN old engines 5 wires - one goes to ground. The rest can be easily divided into pairs by simply ringing them. Now it is important to determine which pair relates to the start, and which one is working? Usually the resistance is higher at the starters, and it is they that need to be connected via a capacitor to the “SB” button. To prevent the engine from burning out, the button must be without a lock; for this purpose, you can use a doorbell. Sometimes such motors have three output wires, which means that the two windings were connected at the factory.
For starting the electric motor you need to press the button and hold it for 1-2 seconds, and after spinning up the engine, you should stop supplying voltage. When the motor can start running without load, it means that it will start without a capacitor. If you do not use a starting winding in an old motor, you can change the direction of rotation.
New electric motors Washing machines are produced with at least 5 terminals, but all of them are not needed to start. So, you can safely remove three wires: two going to the tachogenerator, and one connected to the thermal protection. The latter includes contact with “zero” resistance.
Further connection diagram electric motor involves supplying voltage to the winding wire, a pair of which should be connected to the first brush. In this case, the second brush is mated with the remaining pair of 220-volt wire. The engine is now ready to start. And to change the direction of rotation you need to change the connections with the brushes.
Speed controller
To adjust the speed you should use a dimmer(usually it is used to change the brightness of lighting). However, it is important to understand that the power of the regulator must exceed the power of the electric motor itself. The easiest way is to choose the right device. But if you have enough skills and knowledge of electronics, you can try to get a triac with a radiator from a washing machine with a speed controller. They need to be soldered into the existing dimmer.
Possible connection problems and their elimination
If all wires are connected correctly, but The washing machine motor turns off after a few minutes of starting, a possible cause may be overheating. To identify a heating part, you need to run the engine for one minute. During this time, only the problem area will have time to heat up. This way you can understand that the bearing assembly, stator or other part has failed. In this case, it is not necessary to change the bearings; perhaps they are simply clogged, or there is not enough lubrication. If the cause of the motor shutdown is the capacitor, then it should be replaced with a device with a lower capacity.
When all parts have been replaced, you need to run the engine for 5 minutes and check its heating. Then the procedure should be repeated two more times, and only after this can you be sure that the electric motor is working.
Important! Sometimes an induction motor can run too slowly. One of the reasons is a short or break in the winding. In any case, such a motor is not suitable for further use.
Having understood the intricacies of connecting the motor from an old washing machine, you can make your life easier and save your budget by making several universal tools. If all faults in the engine are corrected in a timely manner, it will last for several more years. The main thing is to follow safety precautions when working with electricity.
Rice. 1. Design of the Mini-Vyatka washing machine
a - design: 1 - pallet; 2, 6,12, 16 - screws; 3 - cam; 4 - base; 5 - walls; 7, 9 - clamps; 8,10 - capacitors; 11 - drive cover; 13, 21, 33 - nuts, 14 - handle; 15 - plug; 17 - time relay; 18 - tank cover; 19 - tank; 20 - stopper; 22 - activator bearing; 23, 24, 30, 31 - washers; 25 - activator; 26 - terminal block; 27 - bracket; 28 - electric motor; 29 - hose; 32 - activator pulley; 34 - belt drive; 35 - retaining ring; 36 - engine pulley; 37 - bolt
The Mini-Vyatka SM-1.5 washing machine consists of a washing tank 19 (Fig. 1), an electric drive, a tank lid 18, an activator 25 and a connecting cord. The washing tub has a recess in the bottom for installing the activator and protrusions on the inner wall indicating the maximum and minimum water levels for washing and rinsing. The activator is driven by an electric motor through a belt drive 34. The washing machine drive consists of an electric motor 28, a time relay 17 and capacitors 8 and 10. The activator drive is started and stopped using a time relay, the handle 14 of which is located on the control panel. The washing time is controlled by a time relay from 0 to 6 min. Operating cycle: 50 s - rotation in one direction, 10 s - break, 50 s - rotation in the other direction, 10 s - break, etc. At the bottom of the machine there is a drain pipe with a drain hose 29.
C1, C2 - capacitors, K - cyclic time relay RVTs-6-50; R - resistor; M - electric motor AVE-071-4C
Disassembling the Mini-Vyatka washing machine
Disassembling the car. Remove plug 15 (see Fig. 1), unscrew screw 16 and remove handle 14. Unscrew nut 13, remove drive cover 11, unscrew screw 2 securing cam 3 and remove wall 5 with electrical equipment. Turn the machine over, unscrew the screws and remove tray 1. Reassemble the machine in the reverse order. It should be taken into account that the permissible gap between tank 19 and wall 5 is no more than 0.5 mm. Adjustment of the gap is ensured by fixing cam 3 with screw 2.
Repair and replacement of parts in the Mini-Vyatka washing machine
Replacing the activator bearing. Loosen the electric motor mounting bolts. Remove the belt 34 from the pulley 32. Unscrew the nut 21 securing the pulley, knock out the stopper 20, remove the activator 25, remove the washers 23 and 24, unscrew the nut 33 and remove the bearing 22. Install the bearing in the reverse order. The permissible protrusion of the activator surface above the plane of the bottom of the tank should be no more than 2 mm. The installation of the activator is regulated by washer 23 between the activator and washer 24. The permissible axial displacement of the activator is no more than ±0.5 mm. The permissible displacement of the groove of the activator pulley 32 relative to the groove of the electric motor pulley 36 is no more than 1 mm. If the displacement is large, adjust the position of the grooves by installing washers 23 and 24. Radial displacement of the pulley on the activator axis is not allowed.
Replacing the electric motor. Loosen the bolts 37 securing the electric motor, remove the belt, remove the retaining ring 35. Using a puller, remove the pulley from the electric motor shaft. Disconnect the electrical wires from terminals 26. Remove the electric motor. Install the new engine in reverse order.
Replacing the time relay. Disconnect the electrical wires. Unscrew screws 12 securing the relay and remove the relay. Install the new relay in reverse order.
Replacing capacitors. Disconnect the electrical wires. Unscrew the screw b securing the bracket 27 and remove the bracket from the grooves in the wall. Unscrew the screws of the fastening clamps 7 and 9 to the bracket. Remove the capacitors. Install new capacitors.
Belt replacement. Loosen bolts 37 securing the electric motor to the base. Remove the belt and install a new one. The tension of the belt should be such that it ensures a deflection of its branch by 3...4 mm under the influence of a force of 400 gf.