A bearing is a small element of technical equipment of a car. It requires replacement at a certain interval, and all repair work is carried out according to regulations, otherwise it will be difficult to decide how to remove the bearing and replace it on time. When making repairs yourself, you can encounter a lot of difficulties, thinking not only how to remove the bearing, but also first unscrew this or that nut. There are cases when the fastenings do not give in, and you have to use force or additional leverage. But in everything you need to have moderation, not to damage parts that will be difficult to find later, and to adapt them to a car of a certain brand.
Why do you need to change bearings?
- Maximum or average bearing wear;
- Finding an element under prolonged pressure during aggressive driving;
- Impaired balancing of the chassis system, so an urgent decision is made on how to remove the bearing and replace it with a new one;
- The appearance of atypical sounds, creaks when the car is moving, impacts of the cardan on the lower body of the vehicle;
- Detection of wheel play will also force the driver to think about how to remove the bearing from the shaft, carefully install new parts in their seats and return safe maneuverability to the car;
The main purpose of the bearing is to reduce friction and protect mechanisms from rapid wear. There is a wide variety of bearings. They differ in purpose, size and location. The part is subject to wear and therefore requires timely replacement. But in solving the problem of how to remove a wheel bearing, a lot of difficulties arise, so experienced craftsmen and amateurs have come up with reliable ways to remove the bearing. Let's look at some of them.
Method one, how to dismantle the bearing
There are a large number of special devices that, even at the factory, received a single purpose - to quickly dismantle the bearing, without requiring power investments and financial costs from the auto mechanic or the car owner. Using special tools to remove the bearing from the shaft is an excellent and easiest solution to carry out repairs. You can save yourself from unforeseen situations. And to do this you just need to follow the instructions. Typically, a standard puller is a threaded shaft that is screwed onto special auxiliary holders. They act as fasteners. Using such a simple puller, the bearing is fixed and removed. Everything ingenious is simple!
Stages of working with the puller
- We take a puller and bring it to the worn bearing.
- We clamp the bearing with a puller.
- We begin with moderate rotational movements to “pull” the bearing from its seat. Remember that movements should be progressive, without much pressure, so as not to damage the elements of a coherent system.
Thus, the question of how to remove the wheel bearing in car services is resolved. The use of special tools and auxiliary equipment makes the work easier, reduces the cost and speeds up the repair process.
Method two, how to dismantle a bearing using heat
Apply the effective laws of physics associated with heating metal. After all, it is 100% known that metal expands at high temperatures, so there is a possibility that the bearing will jump out of its seat on its own, and there will be no need to use physical force, which is sometimes destructive to the entire system.
Important to remember! If you use this method for the first time, you may not calculate the temperature conditions or your hand will tremble, and as a result, scale may appear along the edge of the nest. And now it will block the path of the bearing. It is recommended to knock off the scale first, only then continue using the second method.
The third way to remove the bearing
If it is not possible to use the first method when deciding how to remove the bearing with a puller, then use the third method. It will require skill and the use of force and auxiliary tools. What is the procedure for action?
- Study the features of the procedure, how to remove a bearing, evaluate your capabilities and level of skills.
- Select the necessary tools: a sledgehammer with a soft tip, wooden stands, a vice.
- Fix the removable shaft in a vice and use a hammer and wooden blocks to knock the shaft out in the opposite direction. Be careful not to damage the entire structure of the part with an awkward blow, because it can be used in the future.
Thus, the third method is used if the bearing is completely worn out and does not come out of its seat, so force must be applied. There are times when it is difficult to solve the problem of how to remove the rear bearings from the shaft, so you simply have to cut them out. This radical method is resorted to by experienced craftsmen who have received a completely worn-out chassis system for repair, and there is no other way to get a bearing to replace it. Beginners are not recommended to use the third method, because they simply will not cope and can damage other elements of the chassis system. In this case, a simple bearing replacement will cost a pretty penny.
Which way is better
There is no definite answer, because every repair is a special case. It all depends on the age of the car, the wisdom of the vehicle owner, and his responsibility for the technical condition of the car. If a person bought a car to ride and then sell the “tortured steel horse”, then the auto mechanic will have to work on such a car for quite a long time, almost all components of the system will be worn out. In this case, the second or third option is suitable. Ideal car repairs are carried out in a short time and do not require additional financial investments. The first method - the most professional and effective - is used by a car mechanic and will very quickly return the car to operation.
Thus, we have outlined three main ways to remove a bearing, but each craftsman chooses the most optimal one, that is, the one that is most suitable in a particular case. Good luck to everyone with their DIY repairs. If you are not sure, then contact a specialist.
Creating a Rotation- that’s the main task electric motor. Engines have bearings that serve to reduce friction in mechanisms. To increase their service life by several times, they need to be constantly monitored and lubricated in a timely manner. When worn, one or two bearings must be replaced.
It is also necessary to carry out maintenance of the electric motor, while electric motor disassemble and remove the armature or rotor with two bearings on the shaft. The motor must be disassembled strictly according to the instructions below.
Bearing check electric motor
Always check the condition of the bearings electric motor. If their wear significantly exceeds the permissible limits, they begin to overheat, and the operation of the motor becomes noisy. If you ignore such engine operation and untimely When replacing bearings, when rotating, the stationary part of the motor, the stator, and its moving part, the rotor, begin to touch each other and this can lead to serious damage to the motor and, as a result, replacement of the armature or rotor.
You can check the bearings yourself. Wherein , electric motor you need to place it on a hard surface, then put your hand on top of it and turn the shaft several times. The rotor should not jam when rotating; it is also necessary to pay attention to whether there are scratching sounds or the rotor rotates with jerks; this testifies that the bearings will require replacement in the very near future.
Checking the backlash
Rolling bearings (ball or roller) must have radial and longitudinal or axial play. This is normal because even new bearings have some play, but they should not exceed permissible limits.
If, having parsed electric motor If you find traces of friction between the rotor and the stator, this means significant wear of the bearings. If the rotor is severely worn, it must be replaced.
How to remove a bearing from a shaft electric motor
Removing a bearing from a shaft requires special pullers, which vary in size and design. Massive, with three or four gripping arms, are used for large shafts of large engines; for small shafts, pullers with replaceable gripping plates or strips can be used.
The emphasis should be on the inner ring of the bearing. When rotating, you can also use a piece of pipe to extend the lever to make it easier to rotate, and you can also lubricate the shaft with machine oil to make rotation easier.
Installation bearing back
The width, outer and inner diameters of the new bearing must be completely correspond the dimensions of the one being replaced. Dirt should not get inside when installing the bearing, as its entry can cause rapid failure electric motor. It is also necessary to check that there is no corrosion, chips or other damage inside. The bearings are mounted using a metal pipe whose diameter exactly matches the inner diameter of the bearing ring.
Before starting the installation, everything involved surfaces must be lubricated. The bearing must be seated without distortion. You need to make a knob on the pipe, thanks to which it becomes possible to hit strictly in the center, and not on the sides of the pipe.
To simplify the process, it is best to heat the bearing in boiling oil; this should be done for about five to ten minutes. In this case, the best option is to use an electric stove, rather than an open fire, in order to comply with safety rules. Then you need to remove the bearing with a metal hook and put it on the rotor using pliers or a rag.
Bearing lubrication electric motor
The operation of the bearing depends on the lubrication initially applied when installing it, because for a large number electric motors, adding lubricant to the bearings after their assembly is not structurally provided.
For motors with speeds up to 3000 rpm, when lubricating bearings, it is best to use a thick lubricant such as Litol 24 (moisture resistant) or Tsiatim 201 (not moisture resistant), and for engines with higher speeds, it is better to use CIATIM-202 lubricant.
Procedure for disassembling electric motors
The procedure for disassembling the electric motor during repair is as follows:
1. Remove the pulley or coupling half.
2. Remove the roller bearing caps, loosen the traverse clamps, and unscrew the nuts from the studs that tighten the ball bearing flanges.
3. Release oil from the plain bearings.
4. Remove the bearing shields.
5. Remove the motor rotor.
6. Remove the rolling bearings from the shaft, pull out the bushings or sleeves of the plain bearings from the shields.
7. Wash shields, bearings, traverses, liners, oilers, seals, etc. with gasoline or kerosene.
8. Clean the windings from dust or blow them with purified compressed air.
9. After blowing, dirty windings are wiped with a clean rag soaked in gasoline.
10. The connections are desoldered and the windings are removed from the grooves.
Disassembly of the electric motor should be carried out so as not to damage individual parts. Therefore, when disassembling, it is not allowed to use too much force, sharp blows, or use chisels.
Tightly turning bolts are moistened with kerosene and left for several hours, after which the bolts are loosened and unscrewed.
When disassembling the electric motor, all small parts are placed in a special box. Each part of the electric motor must have a tag indicating the number of the electric motor being repaired. After disassembly, it is better to screw the bolts and studs into place, which will prevent their possible loss.
The pulley, coupling half and ball bearing are removed from the shaft using a tie. (Fig. 1). It is desirable that the screed has three staples.
Rice. 1. Tie for disassembling electric motors
The end of the tie bolt rests against the end of the electric motor shaft, and the ends of the brackets grip the edges of the pulley, coupling or inner race of the bearing. When the bolt rotates, the part being removed slides off the motor shaft. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the direction of the force coincides with the axis of the shaft, since otherwise a misalignment is possible, which will cause damage to the motor shaft journal.
If there is no such tie, then the pulley or bearing is removed from the electric motor shaft with light blows of a hammer through a spacer made of hard wood or copper. The blows are applied to the pulley hub or the inner ring of the rolling bearing evenly around the entire circumference.
To remove the bearing shield of the electric motor, unscrew the bolts and, with light blows of a hammer, through the gasket along the protruding edges of the shield, separate it from the housing. To avoid damage when disassembling large electric motors, the rotor of the electric motor and the shield must be suspended during removal, which is usually done using special lifting means (hoists, hoists, etc.).
In the gap between the rotor and the stator of the electric motor, a cardboard spacer of sufficient thickness is placed, on which the rotor rests when removed. This will prevent possible damage to the insulation of the motor windings.
When disassembling small electric motors, the rotor is removed manually. A long pipe is placed on one end of the shaft, wrapped in cardboard, with the help of which the rotor is carefully removed from the stator bore, maintaining it suspended all the time.
When repairing sliding bearings, it is necessary to remove a solid bushing or liner from their bearing shield by hitting it with a wooden hammer through a wooden drift. In this case, the shield must be placed so that the bearing rests against this support. If positioned differently, the bearing may crack. It is also necessary to ensure that the lubrication rings are not damaged.
Electric motor assembly
Electric motor assembly procedure
Electric motor assembly begins with the assembly of individual components. Refilled liners or newly machined bushings are pressed into bearing shields. They must first be scraped along the shaft and grooves for lubrication and slots for lubrication rings must be cut into them according to the old dimensions.
The liners and bushings are pressed into the shield using a small screw or hydraulic press or by carefully striking the gasket with a hammer. During these assembly operations, distortions are especially dangerous, which can lead to jamming of bushings and liners.
Rice. 2. Installation of the electric motor bearing shield when knocking out the liner: a - correct, b - incorrect.
Ball bearings must be firmly seated on the shaft. To facilitate this operation, the bearing is heated in an oil bath to a temperature of 70 - 75°. In this case, the bearing expands and fits more easily onto the motor shaft. When heating, it is not recommended to place the bearing on the bottom of the bath, but rather hang it on a wire. It is not recommended to heat the bearing in the flame of a blowtorch to prevent tempering of the bearing steel.
Place the bearing on the electric motor shaft by lightly hitting the pipe with a hammer against the inner ring of the bearing. During further assembly, the outer race of the bearing must fit normally into the seat of the bearing shield. A too tight fit can lead to pinching of the balls, and a weak fit will cause the outer race of the bearing to rotate in the shield seat, which is unacceptable.
The next operation - inserting the rotor into the stator bore - is carried out in the same way as during disassembly. Then the bearing shields are installed, securing them temporarily with bolts. In this case, it is necessary that the shields be installed in their old place, which is checked by matching the marks marked on the body and the shield during disassembly.
When putting shields on the electric motor shaft, it is necessary to lift the lubricating rings of the plain bearings, otherwise they may be damaged by the shaft.
After installing the shields, the electric motor rotor is turned manually. The rotor of a properly assembled electric motor should rotate relatively easily.
Stiff rotation of the electric motor shaft can be caused by: improper seating of the rolling bearing on the shaft (small radial clearance), insufficient loosening of the sleeve or plain bearing shell, the presence of sawdust, dirt, dried oil in the bearing, shaft distortions, processing of the shaft or housing that does not correspond to the fit, increased friction of leather or felt seals on the shaft.
Then the bearing shield bolts are finally tightened, the rolling bearings are filled with appropriate lubricant and they are covered with caps. Oil is poured into the sliding bearings.
The rotor of the assembled electric motor is once again turned by hand, the rotating parts are checked for non-touching of the stationary parts, the required take-off value (axial movement of the rotor) is determined and adjusted.
After assembly, the electric motor is connected to the network and checked during idle operation, and then it goes for final testing.
Bearings are the most irreplaceable and essential components of a generator. When they become unusable, the operation of the unit becomes more difficult, and soon the generator itself fails. To ensure against this, it is recommended to update them promptly. Let's find out how to remove the bearing from the generator correctly.
Bearings as the main components of the generator
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The generator is an important component of the car, providing power to various circuit elements. In addition, the generator recharges the battery while the power unit is operating. Generator malfunctions can lead to difficulty starting and the impossibility of normal movement.
Generators come in different modifications. For example, on the VAZ 2108, 2109 models a unit of old modifications is installed, on the 2115 and all modern domestic versions - new series of generators.
It is noteworthy that the genes of the new series are distinguished by significant power and are more productive. True, the cost of devices starts from an amount of no less than 4 thousand rubles. So car owners have to carefully protect it, excluding all possible causes of damage, including problems with the bearing.
The bearing is one of the main parts of the generator. It is directly connected to the rotor (armature) of the generator. The bearings surround the armature and it rotates in them. One of the bearings is installed in the front cover, the other is pressed onto the rotor shaft. Both elements are pressed in during installation, so removing them is not such a simple procedure.
The main symptom of a bad bearing
A generator can fail for various reasons. If the bearings are to blame for the malfunction, then this is indicated by a whistle under the hood.
As a rule, a worn bearing “whistles”. That is, it is not completely out of order, but it is working at half capacity, and soon it is expected to be completely defective. Charging may also not be lost, but there is a high risk of the generator jamming. Obviously, such bearings should be replaced.
Specialists can easily determine whether a generator bearing is faulty by listening to the noise on the removed unit using a special device.
Removal and replacement
Before you begin the replacement procedure, you should acquire new and high-quality bearings. Be sure to check the generator model to see which bearing models are installed, so as not to run back to the store.
For example, on a VAZ generator of the fourteenth model, two types of bearings are installed. The rear one is usually a foreign analogue 6202-2RS or the domestic original version 180202. The front one is 180302 or also an analogue. The price of domestically produced bearings is not high - no more than 100 rubles per piece, imported ones are almost twice as expensive.
Algorithm for the dismantling procedure:
- The gene cover is removed;
- Using a screwdriver, the regulator with brushes is dismantled.
Attention. The brush assembly is removed for insurance purposes. When halving the generator, the brushes can easily break if they are not removed.
- Using a syringe, pour HP liquid into the section where the generator is halved around the entire circumference;
- A little liquid also drips onto the mounting screws of the front cover of the generator.
Advice. Treatment with a syringe is good because it prevents the HP liquid from spilling in large quantities, dirtying the workplace and the generator itself. Using a syringe, the liquid can be squeezed out in small quantities, which is what is required. The needle will also help inject the fluid inside so that the HP gets onto the shaft and inner race of the bearing.
Disassembly continues:
- Take a long Phillips screwdriver and use it to unscrew the mounting screws that were previously treated with VD;
Attention. In order to facilitate the removal of bolts, some of them have slots. And you need to remove them with a powerful slotted screwdriver.
Before separating the front and back of the generator, you should mark how the two halves fit relative to each other so that you don't mix anything up when reassembling it!
- The generator is halved with light and gentle hammer blows;
- Now you need to unscrew this pulley nut (1 photo), preferably holding half of the generator in a vice;
- By unscrewing the pulley nut, you can remove the pulley and the intermediate washer.
All that remains is to remove the bearing from the rotor shaft:
- VD 40 fluid is supplied to the front and rear bearings;
- Wait a little time (about 20-30 minutes) until the VD 40 does its job, then be sure to carefully knock out the shaft through a wooden spacer with a hammer (several light blows);
The front bearing of the generator sits here, in one of the halves of the generator. The rotor shaft has come out, all that remains is to press out the bearing.
Bearings, both front and rear, can be removed using a puller. But removing the bearing from the generator armature is much more difficult.
- The puller must be installed correctly;
- Then center and clamp;
- Rotate the handle-bolt to remove the bearing.
The front bearing of the generator is easier to remove in another way, especially if it is cored:
- Insert an iron blank from the inside of the lid;
- Place the cover with the bearing and blank on the stand;
- Knock out the bearing with light hammer blows.
You can use a drill with a 4 mm drill bit attached. The core points are drilled out, after which the bearing is easier to knock out or press out.
If the front bearing is difficult to knock out, do not despair. According to factory technology, the front cover must be replaced as an assembly. All that remains is to buy or find a similar cover with a solid bearing and replace it.
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