If you've never ridden a speed bike before, the presence of levers on the handlebars and a series of sprockets on the crank and cassette probably raises a lot of questions in your mind. In addition, sometimes happy owners of a bicycle with speeds or a simple mountain bike have difficulty understanding why speeds are needed at all.
On a flat road with good surface it is quite possible to do without changing gears. The cyclist simply selects the optimal chain position and convenient gear ratio. Bike speed here it is determined by stubbornness and physical fitness. But it’s better to learn how to play with gears, choosing the optimal cadence depending on the angle of inclination and road conditions. The favorite gear ratio for most beginners is 2-5 or 2-4.
To drive uphill, drive through sand or snow, the speed ratio alone will not be enough. On bicycles with the same speed, in such a situation, everything depends only on the intensity of pedaling, the strength of the cyclist’s muscles, riding technique and the ability to “pull” in time.
The presence of gears greatly simplifies this process, but only if the speeds are switched correctly and in a timely manner. In addition, we should not forget about the health of the knee joints. It is much more useful if in difficult areas the knees are not overloaded, but make more movements - i.e. more cadence.
Switch device
In order to use gear shifting correctly, you need to understand how it works. The principle of operation of a bicycle transmission is based on the same gear ratio from school physics. This is how all manual transmissions work. To simplify, if a small star turns a large one, this is a power lower gear (i.e. you can go uphill without effort), and if a large one turns a small one, then the opposite is true. It will be a high-speed gear or an overdrive.
Accordingly, on a bicycle we have an open type transmission. There are large sprockets in front (2-3 pieces in the standard case), and at the rear there is a cassette of 5-8 sprockets. All that remains is to throw the chain between them. This is what the gear selector is used for (both front and).
The movement of the chain along the blocks is ensured by the front or rear derailleur, and the switch is connected to levers on the bicycle handlebars (shifters). The right trigger usually adjusts the position at the front, the left trigger at the rear. By combining different positions of the chain on the sprockets, the cyclist varies the speed of the bicycle, and at the same time the gear ratio changes, and therefore the muscle effort necessary to obtain the result. Switching on the front block allows you to radically change gear ratios and quickly jump between the main modes. Moving around the cassette makes it possible to more accurately select the desired ratio.
What are transfers for?
The larger the sprocket at the rear, the lower the speed of the bike, but the less effort it will take to twist. Low gear Ideal for climbing uphill, riding on sand, uneven ground or snow. The wheel moves slowly but with great force. Accordingly, if you get stuck in the mud, this is the ideal ratio.
High gear provides a quick increase in speed, but at the same time requires great physical effort from the cyclist. It is good for high-speed travel on smooth roads, as well as for driving downhill.
As a rule, in each situation, the most convenient gear ratio is selected over time. Experienced cyclists don’t even think about it, switching gears automatically. A beginner needs to establish everything experimentally, because the speed of the bike will depend not only on the gears, but also on the physical condition of the rider. As we said earlier, riding in one gear with a fast bike is very bad. At a minimum, the cassette is erased faster and then a bicycle with high speeds is not needed. But first of all, this demonstrates the inability to use technology.
How to use gears correctly?
The gear shift mechanism is highly susceptible to adverse factors. In order for it to serve for a long time and never fail, you should follow several basic rules from the very beginning.
After purchasing a new bike, the first thing you need to do is set up the gearshift system. If it is already configured and works stably, then, of course, there is no need to get into it. We will tell you how to do this in another article. For example , about the rear derailleur.
Switch on the fly
You can only change gears while the bike is moving. When stationary, the shifter will also work, but the chain will not change its position. Then, after the movement begins, there will be a sharp jump from one star to another. This may cause the chain to jump off or become stuck between the sprockets.
Switch early
You can change speeds only when there is no load on the pedals. When climbing up, overcoming bumps or quickly screwing in, the load is maximum, and it’s too late to shift gears. This should always be taken care of in advance. For example, if you see a rise in front of you, then you need to switch at least a few meters before it. Otherwise, the mechanism simply may not work. In addition, there is a possibility of damage to the sprockets and breakage of the chain. However, you can also switch on the mountain. High-quality equipment allows this to be done. But both with an expensive high-quality body kit and with the simplest switch there is a way to switch on the mountain. It is enough to accelerate the bike until inertia appears, then ease the pressure on the pedals and, rotating the pedals while the bike is moving by inertia (or is at the equilibrium point), change gear. In this case, switching will not cause difficulties.
Switch in stages
For the same reason, on inexpensive switches you cannot simultaneously lower or raise the gear by several values at once. This must be done in stages: click -> move the chain -> a few turns of the pedals -> click -> and so on. If you are trying to throw over several sprockets, you will need to make sure that the chain is in the right position and only then apply force.
Avoid distortions
There is such a thing as prohibited transfers. When switching gears while riding, make sure that there are no severe distortions in the chain. If the chain is located on the outermost sprocket at the front, and on the innermost sprocket at the rear (or vice versa), then, in addition to the possibility of the chain slipping, there is a danger of its premature wear and damage to the mechanism. The more parallel it is located in relation to the frame, the better. The optimal combinations of front and rear chain positions can be designated as follows:
- 3 - large front - 4-8 rear
- 2 - middle front - 3-6 back
- 1 - small anterior - 1-3 posterior.
The best way to shift gears on a bicycle
As already mentioned, you can change gears only with a minimum load on the pedals.
That's why The optimal gear shift scheme looks like this:
- Pedaling intensely speed up the bike.
- Then stop pedaling. Moment, when the bike is still moving by inertia at high speed without the assistance of the cyclist, optimal for changing gears. If we are talking about a mountain, then you need to feel the point of balance (although if you have enough strength before acceleration to move by inertia, that’s even better).
- At this moment you need click the shifter and hear the characteristic chain throwing.
- After clicking start pedaling again - at least until you hear the click of the chain jumping to the next sprocket. If there is no click, or instead you hear a crackling sound of a chain hanging in an uncertain position, apply a little pressure on the same shifter without pressing it all the way. At the same time, continue to pedal. The chain will change position within a few seconds. However, the technique only works when we have direct traction. Therefore, the trick will only work in cases where switching (up or down) is ensured by cable tension. Otherwise there is little point. Then you can simply shift to the next gear, hear the shift and return the stick back. True, the chain can slip past the desired sprocket. This happens on inexpensive, low quality switches or on improperly configured equipment.
If you do everything correctly, but the gears are still difficult to shift, pay attention to the condition of the chain and sprockets. After each ride, they must be cleaned of dirt and excess moisture. This is especially important when the chain needs to be lubricated as often as possible - in winter before each trip, in summer once a week. The cause of switching problems may also lie in wear of the mechanism. If suddenly the chain begins to slip right along the teeth, then it is time to change either the cassette or the corresponding sprocket. Also, if the switch is already old, the return springs may have weakened and the positioning may have gone wrong. It’s definitely not possible to configure such equipment to work perfectly.
There are many gears in a modern bicycle. Every day, manufacturers are introducing everything into their models. If about ten years ago the initial line of Shimano Alivio components was intended for 6 chainrings in a cassette (that is, 3x6 = 18 speeds), today bicycles are equipped with 9-star cassettes of this class (3x9 = 27). Even the recently popular (just a year or two ago) 8-star cassettes are now rarely seen, except on cheap bicycles. All this is done not only for the sake of marketing purposes, but also to improve the performance of the transmission: firstly, the speed range expands slightly, and secondly (and this is more significant), the shocks from changing the gear ratio become smoother. The load on the chain and sprockets is reduced, which increases the service life of the components.
How to properly cope with all this farming? How to change gears on a bicycle correctly? Let's figure it out. The tips will be useful to all cyclists who have more than one gear on their bikes. Although no, just everyone, so that you can teach wisdom to your friends and acquaintances.
Learning to switch correctly
Each program, like a good joke, should be appropriate. On the way up we go down, on the way down we go up. The pedal force will guide you in selecting the appropriate gear ratio for your specific driving conditions. If it becomes difficult to turn, you should switch lower; if it becomes too easy, you should switch higher. But in any case, the load on the legs must be maintained, the pedals must be rotated tightly - this is the only way pedaling will be effective.
Cadence
About rotation speed (cadence). Each person is comfortable with their own cadence, at which the pedals will rotate with maximum efficiency. If the rotation speed is lower than the rhythm that is comfortable for you, then your strength will be wasted. If the cadence is incorrect, there is also a risk of injury. This is due to increased stress on joints and muscles. So when driving, pay attention to this point.
You also don’t need to pedal too fast, otherwise you’ll get tired quickly. Finding the ideal frequency for yourself is not difficult, rely on your feelings. I will only add that in addition to road conditions, the choice of gear and cadence is influenced by the strength and direction of the wind, as well as the physical shape of the cyclist at the moment.
Under any conditions, the goal is the same - to pedal at a constant speed and with constant effort, regardless of the selected gear. The same rhythm significantly delays the onset of fatigue and increases endurance. Consequently, a significantly greater distance can be covered.
Transmission device
In a nutshell about the design of the gear shift system. Modern bicycles have two derailleurs - front and rear. They are controlled via shifters: the left one is for the front derailleur, the right one is for the rear derailleur. The number of positions on them must correspond to the number of stars in the connecting rod system and in the cassette.
The principle of operation of the front derailleur is quite simple - it moves the chain from one drive sprocket to another. The rear derailleur is more complicated, since it is charged with the function of tensioning the chain, the length of which changes when moving from star to star. It has a foot with two rollers and a powerful spring. Thanks to this design, the chain does not randomly jump off or sag, and if necessary, with the force of one finger, it quickly and clearly moves to the adjacent sprocket.
How to change gears on a bicycle correctly - basic recommendations
When shifting, the pedals can only be turned forward. Some “uniques” (mostly children, regardless of age) like to do the opposite, mocking the bicycle. A bad example to follow, you must agree. And the power gap does not contribute to effective acceleration in any way.
At the moment of switching, it is necessary to slightly reduce the force applied to the pedals. The transition to another gear will be soft, without shock, which has a positive effect on the durability of the entire transmission.
As you gain experience, you will intuitively select front and rear sprocket combinations. If you have not yet fully mastered the switching system, monitor the position of the chain in one position or another. There are more than two dozen gears (the vast majority of bicycles today have 24, 27 and 30 speeds), but only two thirds of them can actually be used. The problem is the severe misalignment of the chain, which occurs when an “outer front sprocket and inner (close to the frame) rear” combination is used, and vice versa. The chain and sprockets in such sprocket combinations quickly deteriorate, and the rear derailleur experiences increased loads. The friction coefficient is generally higher, which requires extra effort from the motor cyclist. After all, it is noisy.
Therefore, we remember: large front sprockets and small rear ones are gear ratios for fast driving, small front and large rear ones are for off-roading and overcoming obstacles. You cannot combine “fast” with “slow”.
Take your time: change gears one at a time, not several at once. Wait until the chain moves to the adjacent sprocket, and only then continue switching.
It is not recommended to shift on a hill due to increased loads on the entire transmission. Therefore, choose a gear suitable for its steepness in advance. Immediately exclude the large front one from the possible options, as it will be very difficult to climb up with it.
Keep your bike clean, lubricate and adjust the mechanisms on time.
And most importantly, approach your cycling wisely.
Video dessert. Scientists took the last phrase of this article literally and decided to create a bicycle with mental gear shifting.
An ordinary city bike is equipped with one sprocket in the front and one in the rear. One gear is not enough to move comfortably on any terrain and maintain the correct cadence. These shortcomings are eliminated by the multi-speed transmission, which is equipped with modern mountain and road vehicles. A correctly selected gear ratio allows you to pass through swampy, sandy and other areas of increased complexity that are beyond the capabilities of a single-speed bike.
Building a skill: how to change gears correctly using the example of a Stealth bicycle with 21 gears
To switch competently is to choose a suitable riding pace at which the cyclist will expend the minimum amount of effort. How important this really is is clear from the following points:- The optimal rotation speed of the connecting rods guarantees the safety of the joints.
- An acceptable cadence is the key to effective muscle work.
- An exemplary selected speed helps to preserve the factory-provided service life of the components.
You can learn and learn how to change gears correctly on a mountain bike only after mastering its high-speed design. So, any Stels Navigator model worth up to 30,000 rubles is equipped with: 
- 3 stars on the front and 7 stars on the back.
- Shifters located on the steering wheel.
- Rear and front switches, which are ordinary metal frames mounted on the frame.
- 2 cables connecting the steering mechanisms for speed control and frame shifters.
The process of adjusting the position of the chain between the stars using frames is called switching. It is carried out by working with shifters. The latter come in two types: trigger (with levers) and pin (rotating). They are installed on the steering wheel in two copies:
- The left one is responsible for the operation of the front transmission.
- The right one moves the rear chain shifter.
The shifters have numbers indicating the number of the current star. Asterisks are numbered from left to right. The switching process itself involves pressing or rotating the levers. When pressed (trigger shifters):
- Upper left lever - resets to the smaller chainring in a 3-1 sequence.
- Lower left lever – throws onto the large front sprocket (1-3).
- Upper right handle – throws to parts with fewer teeth located at the back (1-7).
- Lower right lever – moves the rear frame towards the large stars (7-1).
Practice
If the device is unpacked and assembled,
completed, the algorithm for how to change speeds on a Stealth bicycle is clear - you can go. When moving, it is worth choosing the gear ratio wisely, excluding chain distortions: 
- Big star. Used when driving from slopes and there is no wind. Cooperates with rear set 5, 6, 7.
- Medium star. Used when starting, moving along a flat road and a compacted intersection. Interacts with rear block 3,4,5.
- Small star. Used when riding on slopes, rough rough terrain, wetlands, sticky mud, sand, and thick grass. It rotates optimally with rear sprockets from first to third.
We consolidate knowledge or how to correctly change gears on any mountain bike without harm to people and equipment
Awareness of the gear shift mechanism is not enough to confidently and safely operate a bicycle. It’s also worth checking out these tips on this matter:
- You can only throw the chain while moving. If the position of the frames has been changed on a stationary bicycle, you need to idle the pedals (raise the rear wheel).
- Use the transmission only with an unloaded chain. In other words, move the chain drive links only with rapid rotation of the connecting rods, but not at the start or under load. This is fraught with the fact that the actuators may break and the chain may break. And indeed, with a lot of effort on the pedals, there is a high risk that it will not switch at all when the appropriate command is given.
- Do not transfer to several stars at once. Changing the position of the frames takes only one click. In this case, the smooth operation of the transmission is ensured.
Much has been said about the need to avoid chain misalignment. Why is this necessary? It’s simple: when the chain is in a position, for example, with a large star in front and a large star in the back, we have obvious wear, expressed in additional grinding of the flexible links. By the way, a typical mistake of drivers who ignore technology, how to correctly change gears on a high-speed mountain bike with 18 or more speeds, is to use all the rear sprockets, and put only a large one at the front. 
For your information. The chain needs to be washed, say, and lubricated. If it slips on the cassette, it must be changed along with the rear sprockets.
Another important aspect is to choose the transmission speed so that pedaling is easy. The optimal cadence verified for cyclists is 80-90 rpm. To measure it, you can use cycling computers, for example, CatEye Strada Cadence. Be sure to drink while riding. These two rules will save your knee joints.
In short
- The main purpose of the transmission is to provide easy pedal travel (80-90 rpm) in any driving situation.
- Shifting is accomplished by pressing or rotating (trigger or pin shifters, respectively).
- The selected gear is displayed on the shift control mechanism located on the steering wheel.
- When moving around the city on a 21-speed bicycle, it is optimal to use the middle front sprocket and one of the three rear ones: 3, 4, 5.
To operate your bike properly, you need to know how to change gears correctly and how to use them in a given situation.
A modern bicycle has three main gears (chainrings). The smallest star is responsible for climbing uphill at low speed and without much effort. The middle chainring allows you to ride in walking or touring mode, which is why it is used most often. The largest chainring is needed for fast driving; here the load on the legs will be maximum.
If the front stars determine the driving mode, then the rear ones are auxiliary. They are selected according to the level of comfort or based on sporting goals.
For example, if you have a 24-speed bicycle (3 front and 8 rear sprockets), the optimal gear ratio will look like this:
1 front - 1,2,3 or 4 rear. Driving uphill.
2 front - 3,4,5,6 or 7 rear. Comfortable driving mode.
3 front - 6,7 or 8 rear. Speed mode.
The same principles will be appropriate for bicycles with a different number of gears.
It is important that the combination of opposite gears is incorrect (1 forward and 8 reverse). This is both impractical and will cause obvious distortion of the chain. The result is that both the chain and the sprockets will quickly fail.
The left lever (on the handlebar) controls the front derailleur, and the right lever controls the rear derailleur. Only one switch lever should be used at a time.
Only change gears while driving.
Do not change gears when driving over strong bumps, because the chain may miss the gear teeth and jump off.
Without the proper skill, do not switch to several gears at once - do it in stages: after waiting for one gear to work smoothly, move on to the next.
When you drive through mud and roots, shift into a higher gear. This will help you pedal less often and not get out of the saddle, and the likelihood of getting stuck is also reduced.
Many novice cyclists avoid changing gears frequently and, even when riding against the wind, leave the chain on the large drive and small driven gears. The result of such a ride will be pain in the knees. It is recommended that when driving against the wind, reduce the gear ratio, this will help maintain high speed with less effort. Keep in mind that in low gears you need to pedal hard.
Do not start driving with the fastest gears; you may break the chain or break the derailleur. Try to make the shifting more balanced; if the pedal load is heavy, you need to switch to an easier gear.
Remember: first you need to select the right forward gear, and only then adjust the reverse gear!
Be sure to clean and lubricate the chain, sprockets and derailleur - such care contributes to smoother and clearer shifting, and, therefore, a comfortable ride.
Don't neglect changing gears - this will help save energy and reduce the likelihood of serious injury. Learn how to shift gears correctly and enjoy all the capabilities of your mountain bike!
Many novice cyclists do not always know how to change gears on a bicycle correctly. The salesperson in the store does not always correctly and clearly explain to a person how one should and should not switch, what it entails and what the consequences of incorrect switching are for the bicycle.
So, let's begin our brief overview of the operation of a bicycle transmission:
The principle of operation is very simple - the larger the diameter of the front sprocket and the smaller the rear, the harder it is to pedal, but the faster you can accelerate and, accordingly, vice versa, the smaller the sprocket in front and the larger in the rear, the easier it is to pedal, but this will not add speed. There is one more point that you should pay attention to - gear shifting occurs only when you pedal, that is, all at the same time. It’s trite, but many people don’t know this and think that they can just change the speed and start moving - this is not so. At the moment when you change the speed but do not pedal, the switch is already on the new sprocket, but the chain is not yet, this leads to two consequences: 1) chain break at the moment of start 2) unpleasant crunching sound
Below is a visualization for a more convenient understanding of the words:
Knowing this operating principle makes it much easier to overcome steep climbs and travel medium and long distances.
And now about the most important thing.
Transmission wear depends not only on the components installed, but also on your use. There is such a thing in bicycle terminology as “chain misalignment”. Chain misalignment is the operation of the transmission when the chain bends strongly. That is, if you use, for example, the largest sprocket in front, and the rear derailleur of the bicycle is also set to the largest sprocket.
So, let's figure out what happens? It seems to you that the bike rides and rides, but not quite like that, there is increased wear on the bike components - the chain, rear and front sprockets, derailleur rollers and the rear derailleur itself. How should you switch? Below I will give examples for the operation of a 7 and 8 rack bicycle transmission, since these are the most popular at the moment among beginner cyclists.
Rules for switching to Shimano21 speed:
The middle sprocket at the front (the most popular for cyclists) works correctly with all sprockets at the rear except the outer ones (the largest and smallest)
Rules for switching to Shimano24 speed:
The largest star at the front only works correctly with the three smallest stars at the back
The smallest star at the front works correctly with the three largest in diameter at the back
The middle sprocket at the front (the most popular for cyclists) works correctly with all sprockets at the rear except the outermost 2 or 3
Below is an illustration to make my words easier to understand
Some shift rules, especially the middle sprocket, in front in relation to the rear sprockets may differ from those I have given. This depends mainly on your front derailleur (the width of its tab) and rear sprockets.
For example: if you have a ShimanoTZ-30 front derailleur installed, then the middle chainring will work with all the rear ones except the outermost 2 on each side, and if you have, for example, a ShimanoTX-50, then the middle chainring will work with all the rear ones except the outer ones (the largest and the smallest).
All of the above is described based on our experience in practice, and not from recommendations and articles on the Internet. If you adhere to the rules of changing gears on a bicycle, then your bicycle will serve faithfully and reliably, and will not let you down at the most crucial moment.