The bike shifts loudly. Bicycle gears: optimal number, shift rules

23.08.2017

Once upon a time, everyone rode bicycles with one single gear and did not even think about what could be different. Today the market is ready to offer many models with different numbers of gears. What is the difference and does it make sense to overpay for their quantity? Let’s find out in this article.
First of all, gear shifting provides comfort while driving over rough terrain. Thanks to the ability to change gears, the cyclist can easily climb uphill and can rest and gain good speed while descending the mountain.
The number of speeds is determined by the number of front and rear sprockets. Modern mountain bikes are usually rated 3 stars in the front and 6-10 in the rear. So a bicycle with three front and six rear sprockets will have 18 speeds, with seven rear ones - 21, 8 - 24, 9 - 27 and 10 - 30. Today, the maximum possible number of speeds on a bicycle is 33.
What gives us a large number of passes? The ability to provide yourself with the most comfortable and enjoyable riding on any terrain. For example, an 18-speed cyclist on a climb may feel that a lower gear produces heavy pedaling and a higher gear produces a high cadence (cadence). At the same time, the cyclist with 27 speeds will have the opportunity to choose the ideal speed for himself, at which the climb up the mountain will take place without unnecessary effort. However, you need to understand that the number of speeds increases the cost of the bike itself, so if you plan to ride around the city or in the country (where the landscape does not change much), 18 and 21 speeds will be enough for you. When riding on rough terrain with hilly terrain, for sports it is better to choose models with 24, 27 and 30-speed transmission. The more speeds a bicycle has, the higher the quality of the attachments, but also the higher the final price of the bicycle.

How to change speeds correctly?

In order for your bike to serve you faithfully for many years, it is important not to neglect some important rules.
First you need to select the right forward gear, and then adjust the gear with the rear derailleur.
First gear is optimal for climbing uphill, driving on sand and mud to save your strength and energy.
Second gear is for driving on uneven terrain with slight inclines.
Third gear is for the city and smooth asphalt.
By choosing the right gear, you can avoid fatigue during long bike rides, avoid knee pain and get maximum pleasure with minimum effort.

Changing gears is not difficult, the main thing is to do it correctly:

• Change gears only on the go while pedaling!
• Never change gears by pedaling backwards. At the moment of switching, ease the force on the pedal. Do not pedal immediately after changing speed. Do not change speeds from the lowest to the highest in one motion - this may damage the speed selector and even break the chain.
• Do not change gears while climbing to avoid putting unnecessary stress on the chain.
• Lubricate the chain regularly. A signal for this may be metallic noise or the rustling of the chain while driving. If you often ride your bike off-road or on sandy beaches, wash the chain with kerosene or a special chain cleaning mixture before lubricating it.
• Do not use chain positions in which extreme opposite sprockets are used, and also make sure that the difference between the speeds (chain stars) is not more than 4. This leads to excessive skew of the chain, its stretching and, as a result, to its wear. There will also be increased wear on the sprockets.
• You can clearly see the choice of the correct gears in the diagram:

Single speed bicycles

These are bicycles that have only one speed, they have a simple design, and have their advantages and disadvantages. Single-speed bicycles can be city bicycles (cruisers, road and folding models, fixed bikes), as well as stunt bicycles (for street, dirt, trials, BMX). Stunt bikes are used for certain purposes, but city singlespeed bikes are suitable for leisurely trips and commuting to work or the store. Their advantages: ease of maintenance, rolling, interesting price (due to the absence of shifters, switches, sprockets, cables, etc.), low weight (again for the same reason), the ability to install a belt drive, a short chain that is little subject to wear. But singlespeed also has its drawbacks: low cadence at the beginning of movement, long acceleration and high energy consumption while driving, difficulty when climbing uphill.

Bicycles with planetary hub

The planetary bushing is a complex gear shift mechanism consisting of more than 40 parts housed in a sealed housing that reliably protects them from external influences. The most common are 3-speed, 7-speed and 8-speed planetary hubs, which have their own pros and cons. Cons: Fewer speeds and heavy weight. Pros: reliability and durability, ability to change gears in any position (during lifting, stopping), avoidance of chain “flying off”.
Typically, a planetary hub is installed on city recreational bicycles, and even three speeds are quite enough for city riding! Stark has models with planetary hubs

To operate your bike properly, you need to know how to change gears correctly and how to use them in a given situation.

A modern bicycle has three main gears (chainrings). The smallest star is responsible for climbing uphill at low speed and without much effort. The middle chainring allows you to ride in walking or touring mode, which is why it is used most often. The largest chainring is needed for fast driving; here the load on the legs will be maximum.

If the front stars determine the driving mode, then the rear ones are auxiliary. They are selected according to the level of comfort or based on sporting goals.

For example, if you have a 24-speed bicycle (3 front and 8 rear sprockets), the optimal gear ratio will look like this:

1 front - 1,2,3 or 4 rear. Driving uphill.

2 front - 3,4,5,6 or 7 rear. Comfortable driving mode.

3 front - 6,7 or 8 rear. Speed ​​mode.

The same principles will be appropriate for bicycles with a different number of gears.

It is important that the combination of opposite gears is incorrect (1 forward and 8 reverse). This is both impractical and will cause obvious distortion of the chain. The result is that both the chain and the sprockets will quickly fail.

The left lever (on the handlebar) controls the front derailleur, and the right lever controls the rear derailleur. Only one switch lever should be used at a time.

Only change gears while driving.

Do not change gears when driving over strong bumps, because the chain may miss the gear teeth and jump off.

Without the proper skill, do not switch to several gears at once - do it in stages: after waiting for one gear to work smoothly, move on to the next.

When you drive through mud and roots, shift into a higher gear. This will help you pedal less often and not get out of the saddle, and the likelihood of getting stuck is also reduced.

Many novice cyclists avoid changing gears frequently and, even when riding against the wind, leave the chain on the large drive and small driven gears. The result of such a ride will be pain in the knees. It is recommended that when driving against the wind, reduce the gear ratio, this will help maintain high speed with less effort. Keep in mind that in low gears you need to pedal hard.

Do not start driving with the fastest gears; you may break the chain or break the derailleur. Try to make the shifting more balanced; if the pedal load is heavy, you need to switch to an easier gear.

Remember: first you need to select the right forward gear, and only then adjust the reverse gear!

Be sure to clean and lubricate the chain, sprockets and derailleur - such care contributes to smoother and clearer shifting, and, therefore, a comfortable ride.

Don't neglect changing gears - this will help save energy and reduce the likelihood of serious injury. Learn how to shift gears correctly and enjoy all the capabilities of your mountain bike!

In our childhood, everything was simple - we didn’t hear about any gears, we drove at the same speed. Over time, everything becomes more complicated, and now we have access to bicycle models on which the number of gears can reach up to thirty! How to cope with managing this entire complex system?

Correct gear shifting on a bicycle

Let's figure out what these programs are in general. We have two groups of stars - the rear ones (the so-called driven ones, from 6-10 pieces, in our case there are 7 of them) and the front ones (they are also the leading ones, in our case there are three of them, although there are sometimes fewer).

These stars vary in size, from small to large, due to which we can control the speed and maneuverability of our vehicles, much like using a gearbox on a car.

As a result, the speed range of modern bicycles will range from 18 to 30, the most common of which is a 21-speed, also known as a mountain bike.

Correct gear shifting contributes to riding comfort, the cyclist gets less tired and does not expose his vehicle to premature wear.

Let's try to formulate the basic principles of gear shifting, which apply both to a 21-speed bicycle and to all others that have more than one speed.

How to change gears - rules

1. The higher the climb, the larger the gear, the same for the descent. In this case, you should focus on the force that you feel in the pedals. As soon as you feel the heaviness, drop the gear, but if it becomes too easy to turn, you can increase it.
2. You should change gears before climbing or descending, not during them.
3. It is necessary to choose the right rotation speed so as not to waste energy and protect yourself from the risk of injury.
4. If you are going to change speed, under no circumstances should you pedal backwards. The power difference will negatively affect the technical condition of the bicycle.
5. The moment you change speed, you need to reduce the effort on the pedals. This will ensure a smooth transition to another speed, which is beneficial for the transmission.
6. It is realistic to use no more than two-thirds of all possible gears, since frequent use of very low or high speeds will cause premature wear of the chain and sprockets.
7. The most important rule is that the chain should not be allowed to skew, and this can happen when the front and rear sprockets are in extreme positions.

As you gain experience, you will intuitively feel at what point you need to change gear and which gear to choose. Riding a bicycle requires a careful and thoughtful attitude, and the rest comes with practice. We wish you good luck on the roads!

In fact, changing gears on a bicycle is a trainable art, which depends on the physical condition of the rider, and on long-term training, and on the design of a particular bicycle. Let's look at various factors in this article.

Mechanics

First of all, correct shifting depends on the design of the bicycle. Previously, there were no problems with switching, since there were no speeds on most bicycles. All obstacles were overcome using the strength of the rider or on foot. To understand how to change speeds, you should study the design of the switching system itself.

Speeds and stars

The first bikes with shifting were models like the Tourist, mass successors to the sports bikes of the 70s. They did not have a front derailleur, but the cassette allowed you to select one of four speeds.

Over time, the number of available speeds has grown, and now bicycles with 18, 21, 24 and 27 speeds are becoming the de facto standard. Usually this is a combination of 3 stars on the front derailleur and 6-9 on the rear; in a combination of 3 and 7 stars, 21 speeds are obtained. Some high-speed models have already acquired 10 stars on the rear derailleur, but this is still rare.

Actually, the “speed” is the chainring, and the total gear ratio is obtained from the combination of the current chainrings selected by the front and rear derailleurs.

Shift mechanics

Proper switching does not require much knowledge. Almost all bicycle models are equipped with a cable that transfers force from the shifter - the derailleur control element - to the derailleur itself.

When the cable is tensioned, the switch frame moves and transfers the chain to a larger diameter sprocket; when released, it falls or moves to smaller sprockets. These actions are performed without auxiliary mechanisms, using the flexibility of the chain and friction with the switch frame, i.e. the chain and all elements are subject to loads; transmissions are not provided for during normal operation. Because of this, there is a recommendation not to change gears under load or without moving.

Correct combinations

Despite the fact that nominally the transmission may have 27-30 speeds, i.e. combinations of sprockets, not all of them are recommended to be used, as they are dangerous for the bicycle mechanisms. Why is this happening? Not all sprockets are in the same plane, which means that when they are combined, the chain experiences load at a slight angle, which causes additional friction and, ultimately, bending of the links, then stretching the chain and subsequent damage to both the chain and sprockets.

The basic rule is that the chain is approximately parallel to the plane of the sprockets, without distortions. In numbers, for the now classic 24 speed mountain bike, the rear derailleur value should be between double and triple the front derailleur value, with a few exceptions on the edges, such as 1-1 combinations. Those. Of the 24 options, it is recommended to use the following speed switching scheme:

• On 3 – the largest front sprocket – the reverse speeds are 6, 7, 8.
• On the 2nd star – rear 6,5,4.
• On 1 star – rear 1,2,3.

Of course, these rules can be violated depending on the conditions, but they have already become a generally accepted standard.

Cadence

Let's consider the physical training of a cyclist.

Cadence is the pedaling frequency at which a cyclist rides. Ideal for long-term travel is a stable cadence, i.e., if the pedals rotate evenly throughout the entire journey, and uneven terrain and headwinds are compensated using speed combinations.

But if endurance is important only over long distances, then the health of joints and muscles should be kept in mind at any time. Many novice riders overload their knees by putting out maximum force on each crank rotation. This not only tires and damages the muscles, but if repeated for a long time, it will also affect the health of the knee joint. Professionals use stable and frequent movements without putting serious stress on the legs. This mode is the safest for both the cyclist and the bicycle.

Training and preparation

To prepare for riding at the beginning of the day or season, it is recommended to use lower gears. During the first 10-20 minutes of a long ride, the legs need to “warm up”, for which a pedaling frequency of 60 rpm (movements per minute) and a minimum load are ideal – i.e. speeds with 1 and 2 front sprockets.

A similar recommendation on a more global level is that the first hundred kilometers of the season, especially on a mountain bike, should be covered in lower gears so that the legs “remember” the skills and are not damaged by too serious changes in the daily load.

Other principles

When it comes to shifting gears, these are almost always standard shifters, but there are also other models, for example, planetary hubs and “hello” from the automotive world - automatic transmissions.

City bikes and designer choppers usually do not have a front derailleur, but they do have something rare in the cycling world - a planetary hub, when the gear and shifting system is packaged into a single closed mechanism installed inside the wheel. This principle is used in cars, but does not find much acceptance among cyclists; it absorbs too much energy (up to 10%).

On the other hand, the planetary hub does not have any mechanical factors limiting the shift - you can change gears both under load and at an “inopportune” moment. The mechanism will work properly.

Planetary hub and disc brake

Automatic switching

Of course, manufacturers cannot live calmly in a stable market, and they are looking for new areas to use the talents of their engineers. Thus, for a long time, top companies Shimano and SRAM have been producing automatic transmissions in small batches, where they switch gears in the planetary hub using electronic sensors (Shimano Nexis, Auto, etc.).

There are also rare models with automatic gear shifting on a mechanical basis - the centrifugal force of the load determines the rotation speed, which is why the mechanism changes the gear ratio.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we can make a small list of theses, according to which, even before gaining the necessary experience, you can switch quite carefully and correctly, using the following rules for switching speeds:

• switch only while driving and without heavy load;
• control the bicycle using the transmission, not muscle effort;
• switch in advance, and not at the last moment, or when “it became too hard”;
• change gears one at a time and alternately front and rear;
• do not deviate from normal star combinations;
• keep the bike clean and prevent excessive wear of parts.

A bicycle is a rather complex and at the same time unique design. How to change gears on a bicycle correctly? The art of cycling requires attention and patience, because it is not enough just to buy a bicycle and learn to balance well.

An important feature is speed control. At first glance, this algorithm does not present any difficulties, but in reality it has some nuances.

The device consists of steel gears - “stars”, varying in diameter. These parts are assembled into blocks that lie near the front wheel. This combination is called a “system”. The block located near the rear wheel is called a “cassette”. There is also a chain that is stretched over the “stars”.

On the side of the steering wheel there is a structure for changing gears, or “shifter”. When it turns, the chain moves to the desired sprocket. The rear block and the “cassette” are responsible for the lower level of the chain. It is this part that is controlled by the right shifter. The front block and "system" are required for the top level of the chain. It is controlled by the left shifter.

Gear selection

To determine the frequency of pedal movement, the concept of “cadence” is applicable. The calculation is based on the number of revolutions per minute. The average cadence is 85-100 rotations. These indicators are characterized by the physiological characteristics of the cyclist’s knee joint.

The main mechanism: the slow speed of fluid movement in the joint leads to difficulties in pedaling, and vice versa. It should be taken into account that excess load negatively affects the musculoskeletal system.

Based on these characteristics, it is established:

• when choosing a gear, it is necessary to maintain the cadence at an average level;
• The joints should not be overstrained; the applied efforts should not change.

For example, when going uphill, the stress on your legs will be greater than when going down. If the surface is flat, non-voltage gear selection is preferred.

The highest speed modes are unfavorable for starting. You should start moving at a lower speed to warm up the muscle corset and establish a normal cadence.

Rules for switching speeds

There are a number of specific rules for changing gears. Compliance with them is mandatory!

Only in motion

It is necessary to switch speeds when the bicycle is moving, that is, while pedaling. All rotational movements should be soft, then the chain will move to the adjacent sprocket with little effort. The cassette rear sprockets have a slight drop, and the chain transition is calmer.

Watch out for chain misalignment

When changing gears, it is necessary to ensure that there is no significant misalignment of the chain. If the bike has three front sprockets and 7-8 rear ones, it is not recommended to use 1-8, 3-1, 3-4 shifting. This will lead to failure of the mechanism and a wedge will appear.

Don't press on the pedals

This rule is especially important in relation to the front sprockets. This group is responsible for the upper part of the chain, which is maximally stretched during movement. If you do not reduce the pressure on the pedals and change the speed position, the chain may break.

Climb

If you are going uphill, you should change gears before going up. To do this, you need to throw the chain onto the large front sprocket. This principle can be implemented in low gears. If the front middle sprocket is turned on, then the transition to the small one is carried out.

The transition to a new gear should be silent. If you hear an unpleasant metallic sound, it means that the wrong star ratio is selected. As a result, the chain will be skewed. If it is necessary to switch to several gears at the same time, this is done in the next sequence.

Common errors and problems

Common errors and problems when shifting gears on a bicycle include:

1. Heavy transmission. This problem is common among beginners. Many people claim that they lack the number of chainrings. This is wrong. If you spin a heavy gear all the time, you can damage the joint apparatus. You need to constantly monitor the cadence until it becomes systematized. A sufficient number of revolutions is 100. If a 44-11 gear is installed, this will be enough to reach a speed of 60 km/h.
2. Warped transmission. Sometimes there are cases when a mode like 3-1 is activated. At the same time, the state of the circuit is not checked. Chain bending occurs, increasing the likelihood of wear. Under such circumstances, it may fly off. The most correct position is the transition from the front sprocket to the rear, while maintaining minimal distortion.
3. Transition with load. When shifting, you need to reduce pedal action as much as possible. To do this, you can simply twist them lightly until the chain reaches the desired sprocket. It is always important to correctly assess the situation and possible obstacles by shifting gears in advance.
4. Tightening the chain. This problem lies in the tightening of the chain structure by the front sprockets, which leads to a defect in the carriage structure. Hooks are formed due to improper setup and assembly. This situation is another reason to pay attention to the speed limit.
5. Chain slippage. When installing a new chain on an already similar cassette and heavy load on the pedals, the chain may fail. Considering this probability, you need to maintain an adequate driving regime until all the parts get used. It should be noted that even for a very powerful cassette, the grinding period is 150 km.

If you have just started cycling, you need to pay more attention to the pedal system, gear shifting, and use all types of switches. It is better to choose a mode based on the desired driving actions.

You have become the owner of a brand new bicycle. You have been advised to buy a bicycle equipped with a gear shifter. But you, a novice cyclist, don’t know how to use it. Incorrect operation of two-wheeled vehicles can lead to damage to the device and premature wear of the chain. A minimum of theory and simple tips are written for you.

Why do you need to change gears?

What is harder - lifting two ten-liter buckets of water or the same buckets, but without water? The answer is obvious.

Climbing up a hill on a simple bicycle without a gear shift, you will have to spend much more physical effort than going the same way on a bicycle with the right gear.

Each cyclist pedals at his own speed, which is convenient for him only. This frequency is called cadence.

How does the speed switch work?

To learn how to switch speeds, you need to understand a little about the structure of the speed switch. It consists of steel gears of different diameters. They are called stars. The stars are collected in blocks. The block located closer to the front wheel is called the “system”, the block located closer to the rear wheel is called the “cassette”. The chain is stretched on the stars.

There is a device on the steering wheel (left and right) for changing gears. It's called "shifters". You change the speed, that is, turn the shifter, and the chain moves to the sprocket you need.

The "cassette" or rear block is responsible for the portion of the chain located below. It is controlled by the right shifter. The "system" or front block is responsible for the top of the chain. It is controlled by the left shifter.

Where to begin?

Chain misalignment (left) and correct chain alignment (right)

Sit on the bike and look at the chain from above. Its upper and lower parts should lie parallel to each other or at a slight slope relative to each other, but they should not intersect! This position of the chain is called misalignment. If the left shifter is in position 1, and the right one is in position 7, a misalignment will certainly occur.

Do not allow the chain to skew; it will lead to premature wear of bicycle parts.

The sprockets located closer to the bicycle frame are responsible for downshifting. The outer stars are for upshifting.

Gear selection

There is no clear answer to the question: “Which gear should I choose?” It depends on many factors: the terrain, your personal comfort, and the characteristics of the bike. But first, you can use the table, which is compiled for a bicycle with 24 speeds (it has three positions on the left shifter, and eight on the right). For a bicycle with 18 speeds (there are three positions on the left shifter and six on the right), the table will look different.

These tables give an approximate idea of ​​what gears can be selected. (The gear range for an 18 speed bike is shown in parentheses) You will have to draw the exact table that is ideal for you yourself.

"High" and "low" gears

The higher the gear, the greater the resistance of the pedals, the slower you have to turn them. The lower the gear, the weaker the resistance of the pedals, the faster they need to be rotated. Riding in a gear that is too high for you, that is, exerting more effort than necessary, is dangerous to your health (contrary to the opinion of inexperienced cyclists). Sudden loads are harmful to the functioning of the heart. In addition, you can overload the muscles of your legs and back.

• Don't be alarmed if you don't get the hang of the shifter the first time. You need to get used to a bicycle, just like a car, to “feel” it. To do this, get on your bike more often.
• Change gears only by pedaling
• Before going uphill, you need to slightly increase the speed (accelerate) and switch gears; before going down, on the contrary, slow down and switch in advance
• Do not allow the chain to skew
• Listen to your bike. There should be no creaking or grinding noises
• Take care of your health. Driving in high gears is harmful (stress on the knees)

There is nothing overly complicated about the art of shifting gears. All you need is a little patience to make traveling by bike a sea of ​​positive emotions.

Hello friends.

You have already noticed that spring is in full swing :)

It’s not yet so hot to hide in the shade sipping a mojito, and it’s not so cold to wrap yourself in a blanket, warming up with hotter drinks (I’m talking about tea, what were you thinking about?)

Finally, the time has come when you can roll out your two-wheeled friend and pump blood through your body to your heart's content.

If the road surface and the area allow, we smoothly switch the sprockets to the maximum, corresponding to the middle front sprocket (in our example, up to the 7th) and only after that switch to the large front sprocket (3).

If the quality of the road decreases (bumps, potholes, sand), we smoothly switch the stars to the minimum corresponding star (in our example, to the 3rd) and only after that switch to the small front sprocket (1).

As soon as the road situation begins to return to the original (flat section), we also smoothly return back to the middle front sprocket and then to the large one.

The working front sprocket is the average one! We start with her and end with her.

How to change gears

Finally we come to the last but no less important question - how to shift gears.

Not in the sense of where to press and what to turn, but in the sense of how to switch correctly so as not to mess things up.

As we said above, all switching should be smooth, without jerks and attempts to jump over a star (or even two).

Wait until the selected gear is engaged, and only then switch to the next one.

All switching needs to be done only while moving: standing still it still won’t work.

There should not be any excessive loads on the pedals during switching: you will break the chain. We reached the required speed - temporarily relieved the effort from the pedals (simple accompaniment of them is enough) - switched gears - continued pedaling.

By knowing and following these simple rules, we will greatly improve the quality of bicycle control, save our own health and extend the life of our two-wheeled friend.

Speaking about extending the life of a bicycle, it is worth remembering timely maintenance, but we will leave this for a separate article. In order not to miss it, I recommend subscribing to blog updates.

And finally, 9 useful tips:

1. You should think about which gear to choose in advance, without waiting until it’s too late;
2. don’t forget about the front gear selector: first switch the front, then the rear sprockets;
3. We try to maintain a uniform cadence (pedal speed);
4. before lifting, we switch to a small front sprocket in advance, then this may not work;
5. if the speed is chosen incorrectly on an ascent, wait for a more or less flat section to switch, do not break the chain;
6. All shifts are carried out without unnecessary load on the pedals;
7. when driving on sticky soil, switch to a higher gear - there is less chance of getting stuck;
8. rushing to shift means endangering the gearshift system. Smoothness is the key to success.
9. Before descending, we select the required gear in advance, then we may not have time for this because we will have to watch the road and the brakes.

That's all I have for today.

Have a nice ride.

Best regards, Sergey Drozdov

P. S. If you have any questions after reading the article, do not hesitate to ask in the comments.

P. P. S. You can familiarize yourself with the topics that will be covered in the near future at.

Even in the distant past, the singspeed was the only bicycle option among the masses of the population. The lucky owners of the bikes felt great on smooth asphalt, but were forced to adapt to the rough terrain: forcefully pull the pedals up on the climbs, accelerate from the descents to “take off” to the next hill, lower the tires to ride on uneven dirt roads. Sometimes the skills were no longer enough, and the cyclist left the saddle to cover an unfavorable section on foot.

Over time, everything changed: manufacturers began to produce “highly specialized” bikes in large volumes - road bikes, mountain models, hybrids, sports bikes, etc. The former leader in the form of singlespeed has noticeably faded into the background and is purchased exclusively for travel on roads and light dry primers.

Modern bicycles are mostly equipped with so-called speeds. The most common option is an open sprocket-chain transmission. It is used on all types of bikes, including city city bikes. Changing gears on a bicycle allows the cyclist to adapt his vehicle to specific driving conditions, as well as rationally use his own strength.

The presence of speeds, of course, gives an advantage over the single-speed option, but the benefits manifest themselves when used skillfully on the road. There are simple principles that will tell you how to change gears on a bicycle correctly and not collapse from fatigue after each ride. But even with proper operation, the speed system fails over time, so you need to be able to adjust it.

Bicycles with an open gear system are equipped with two switches that are responsible for jumping the chain from one sprocket to another on the drive and driven cassettes, respectively. For reference, the driving sprockets are the front ones or “crank” ones, the driven ones are the rear ones, at the drive wheel. There is a slight paradox, as in the numbering of asterisks.

The front ones are counted “from small to large.” The standard cassette set is three stars. The first is the smallest, or lowest, gear. Next comes the second, middle gear and the system is completed by the largest, “highest” star.

Reverse gears are counted the other way around: the largest sprocket corresponds to the first gear, and the smallest one corresponds to the highest gear. The number of sprockets is several times greater than the set of front ones, so for each gear in the front cassette, several rear ones are selected.

The chain switching devices are controlled by shifters on the steering wheel: left - front, right - rear. The first rule of changing speeds is not to confuse them with each other. Chain jumping occurs only when the bicycle is moving forward while pedaling. Changing the gear ratio while rolling, as on a planetary hub, is unacceptable.

• sequentially, through each asterisk;
• before entering an incline, select a gear in advance;
• Avoid applying excessive pressure on the pedals when re-throwing the chain.

And one more thing: we never experiment with the transmission by rotating the pedals in the opposite direction!

Now let's directly touch on the question of how to choose gears for specific driving conditions. The general rule is this: on a flat road, we increase the gear to the maximum at which we can hold the appropriate one and ensure maximum travel speed. When moving downhill, towards a strong wind or off-road, we lower the gear, ensuring the bike's maneuverability and uniform load on the legs.

The largest sprocket and several small ones are responsible for the highest gears at the front. This position of the chain will ensure minimal acceleration time, high speed and rolling. For standard 3*7 (8) transmission systems, this will be position “3” at the front and “1” to “5” at the rear. In faster and more precise gear shifting systems, the range of selectable sprockets expands.

Is there anything stopping you? We turn on higher gears

The middle front sprocket is activated when small obstacles appear in the path: wind, a layer of sand on the road, gentle hills, and uneven roads. In the 3*8 system, for the second sprocket, the lower limit of the rear cassette is shifted back by one, and the highest – by two stars back. Recommended positions: 2*3, 2*4, 2*5 and 2*6. The “second in front, third in back” chain position brings the speed bike closer to singlespeed performance. Lower gears reduce speed, increasing flotation.

On a mountain bike, gear ratios are actively used with the chain positioned on the first front sprocket. The rear sprocket range varies from 6 to 8. Low gears are used in tough conditions: winding roads, mud, sand, bumpy dirt roads and steep climbs. The speed of movement is minimal, while maintaining the pedaling frequency and the load on the legs.

It is strictly not recommended to use higher front and lower rear sprockets, and vice versa. Abuse of such experiments will quickly destroy the stars, chain and very expensive switches. In general, the chain misalignment between the front and rear cassettes is present even in a normal position, so aggravating it is more expensive.

How to (left) and not (right) place a chain

If we talk about sensations, a cyclist with an incorrect chain position will feel discomfort from a high-speed bike. Correct use of gear ratios is the key to successful skating and long service life of the transmission mechanism!

Adjusting the chainring selector

Over time, the chain transfer worsens, gears shift poorly, or even fail altogether. Since there are few sprockets installed in front, it is simply impossible not to notice the malfunction.

If the problem of a tight jump of the chain or its absence is caused only by a disordered switch, then it is quite possible to save the situation on your own. Why is the switch not working properly? The main reasons include:

• mismatch of the gear with the planes of the stars;
• poor tension of the drive cable;
• The switch is not securely fastened.

As practice shows, these problems do not come one at a time, so you will have to adjust everything at once, and not just, say, the cable tension.

At the first stage, we wipe the device body, as well as the sprockets and chain from adhering dirt and dust. We check the mounting bolts of the switching device housing and tighten them as far as necessary. Important: there is no point in adjusting a loose switch!

Next, we find the screws “L” and “H” - the position regulators of the shift gear. We loosen them, but do not unscrew them completely. Our task is to tighten them in such a way as to ensure that the gear coincides with the planes of the outer stars.

L adjustment:

1. Switch the chain to position “1” at the front and “maximum” at the rear. If the system is performing very poorly, the chain is installed manually.
2. By tightening the adjusting screw, ensure that the shifter gear is completely aligned with the plane of the first front sprocket. Deviation up to 1.5 mm is not critical.
3. Loosen the cable fastening nut and tighten it slightly.

Front derailleur H setting:

1. Set the chains to the reverse position: “maximum” at the front, “1” at the rear. For a 3*8 system this will be “3” and “1”, respectively.
2. Tighten screw H until the shifter aligns with the large sprocket.
3. Tighten the cable in this position.

From top to bottom: cable bolt, L and H adjusters

When restrictions are set, chain transfer should be restored. If the screws are aligned clearly and the system is not working well, try tightening or loosening the cable. How to determine? The gears go tightly from high to low - tighten, on the contrary - loosen the tension.

Setting up the rear gear system

The next step is to adjust the chain travel along the rear sprockets. Most often, this is where problems are observed, and not by chance: there are more stars, plus a tensioner. First, carefully clean the mechanism from dirt.

1. Checking the cock and bolt fastenings.
2. Adjusting gear restrictions, tightening the cable.
3. Selection of optimal chain tension.

A bent rooster requires mandatory replacement. At the same time, it is checked whether the switch is loose.

Setting L and H restrictions:

1. Loosen both screws.
2. Throw the chain onto the highest (smallest) sprocket (front to maximum).
3. Tighten bolt “H” until the derailleur guide roller is aligned with the sprocket in the same plane.
4. Engage first gear (largest, and first in front).
5. Rotate the screw “L” until the roller coincides with the star.
6. Check switching accuracy.
7. Tighten or loosen the drive cable. We determine it using the same principle as with the front derailer.

Scheme for setting the extreme limit on L

Are the gears not shifting quickly, are the limits set correctly, and is the cable tight? Then it's time to work on the chain tensioner. We find special screws “A” and “B”. The first one adjusts the position of the frame relative to the smallest, and the second - to the largest star.

The adjustment is carried out according to the principle: switch to the appropriate gear and tighten the screw. Rotating the regulator “A” increases the tension force by raising the frame to the highest sprocket. On the contrary, screw "B" lowers it to the large sprocket. An incorrectly set tension makes it impossible to easily select the desired gear: a chain that is too loose can hang in the space between the sprockets, and a chain that is overtightened can break due to excessive tension.

Periodically adjusting the derailleurs of a speed bike is considered normal. It will bring invaluable benefits when the chain and cassettes are in good condition. Setting up the gear shift system in combination with the rules of use when riding a bicycle will significantly increase the life of all components of the transmission, as well as use its resources to the maximum.

If you've never ridden a speed bike before, the presence of levers on the handlebars and a series of sprockets on the crank and cassette probably raises a lot of questions in your mind. In addition, sometimes happy owners of a bicycle with speeds or a simple mountain bike have difficulty understanding why speeds are needed at all.

On a flat road with good surface it is quite possible to do without changing gears. The cyclist simply selects the optimal chain position and convenient gear ratio. Bike speed here it is determined by stubbornness and physical fitness. But it’s better to learn how to play with gears, choosing the optimal cadence depending on the angle of inclination and road conditions. The favorite gear ratio for most beginners is 2-5 or 2-4.

To drive uphill, drive through sand or snow, the speed ratio alone will not be enough. On bicycles with the same speed, in such a situation, everything depends only on the intensity of pedaling, the strength of the cyclist’s muscles, riding technique and the ability to “pull” in time.

The presence of gears greatly simplifies this process, but only if the speeds are switched correctly and in a timely manner. In addition, we should not forget about the health of the knee joints. It is much more useful if in difficult areas the knees are not overloaded, but make more movements - i.e. more cadence.

Switch device

In order to use gear shifting correctly, you need to understand how it works. The principle of operation of a bicycle transmission is based on the same gear ratio from school physics. This is how all manual transmissions work. To simplify, if a small star turns a large one, this is a power lower gear (i.e. you can go uphill without effort), and if a large one turns a small one, then the opposite is true. It will be a high-speed gear or an overdrive.

Accordingly, on a bicycle we have an open type transmission. There are large sprockets in front (2-3 pieces in the standard case), and at the rear there is a cassette of 5-8 sprockets. All that remains is to throw the chain between them. This is what the gear selector is used for (both front and).

The movement of the chain along the blocks is ensured by the front or rear derailleur, and the switch is connected to levers on the bicycle handlebars (shifters). The right trigger usually adjusts the position at the front, the left trigger at the rear. By combining different positions of the chain on the sprockets, the cyclist varies the speed of the bicycle, and at the same time the gear ratio changes, and therefore the muscle effort necessary to obtain the result. Switching on the front block allows you to radically change gear ratios and quickly jump between the main modes. Moving around the cassette makes it possible to more accurately select the desired ratio.

What are transfers for?

The larger the sprocket at the rear, the lower the speed of the bike, but the less effort it will take to twist. Low gear Ideal for climbing uphill, riding on sand, uneven ground or snow. The wheel moves slowly but with great force. Accordingly, if you get stuck in the mud, this is the ideal ratio.

High gear provides a quick increase in speed, but at the same time requires great physical effort from the cyclist. It is good for high-speed travel on smooth roads, as well as for driving downhill.

As a rule, in each situation, the most convenient gear ratio is selected over time. Experienced cyclists don’t even think about it, switching gears automatically. A beginner needs to establish everything experimentally, because the speed of the bike will depend not only on the gears, but also on the physical condition of the rider. As we said earlier, riding in one gear with a fast bike is very bad. At a minimum, the cassette is erased faster and then a bicycle with high speeds is not needed. But first of all, this demonstrates the inability to use technology.

How to use gears correctly?

The gear shift mechanism is highly susceptible to adverse factors. In order for it to serve for a long time and never fail, you should follow several basic rules from the very beginning.

After purchasing a new bike, the first thing you need to do is set up the gearshift system. If it is already configured and works stably, then, of course, there is no need to get into it. We will tell you how to do this in another article. For example , about the rear derailleur.

1. Switch on the fly

You can only change gears while the bike is moving. When stationary, the shifter will also work, but the chain will not change its position. Then, after the movement begins, there will be a sharp jump from one star to another. This may cause the chain to jump off or become stuck between the sprockets.

1. Switch early

You can change speeds only when there is no load on the pedals. When climbing up, overcoming bumps or quickly screwing in, the load is maximum, and it’s too late to shift gears. This should always be taken care of in advance. For example, if you see a rise in front of you, then you need to switch at least a few meters before it. Otherwise, the mechanism simply may not work. In addition, there is a possibility of damage to the sprockets and breakage of the chain. However, you can also switch on the mountain. High-quality equipment allows this to be done. But both with an expensive high-quality body kit and with the simplest switch there is a way to switch on the mountain. It is enough to accelerate the bike until inertia appears, then ease the pressure on the pedals and, rotating the pedals while the bike is moving by inertia (or is at the equilibrium point), change gear. In this case, switching will not cause difficulties.

1. Switch in stages

For the same reason, on inexpensive switches you cannot simultaneously lower or raise the gear by several values ​​at once. This must be done in stages: click -> move the chain -> a few turns of the pedals -> click -> and so on. If you are trying to throw over several sprockets, you will need to make sure that the chain is in the right position and only then apply force.

1. Avoid distortions

There is such a thing as prohibited transfers. When switching gears while riding, make sure that there are no severe distortions in the chain. If the chain is located on the outermost sprocket at the front, and on the innermost sprocket at the rear (or vice versa), then, in addition to the possibility of the chain slipping, there is a danger of its premature wear and damage to the mechanism. The more parallel it is located in relation to the frame, the better. The optimal combinations of front and rear chain positions can be designated as follows:

• 3 - large front - 4-8 rear
• 2 - middle front - 3-6 back
• 1 - small anterior - 1-3 posterior.

The best way to shift gears on a bicycle

As already mentioned, you can change gears only with a minimum load on the pedals.

That's why The optimal gear shift scheme looks like this:

1. Pedaling intensely speed up the bike.
2. Then stop pedaling. Moment, when the bike is still moving by inertia at high speed without the assistance of the cyclist, optimal for changing gears. If we are talking about a mountain, then you need to feel the point of balance (although if you have enough strength before acceleration to move by inertia, that’s even better).
3. At this moment you need click the shifter and hear the characteristic chain throwing.
4. After clicking start pedaling again - at least until you hear the click of the chain jumping to the next sprocket. If there is no click, or instead you hear a crackling sound of a chain hanging in an uncertain position, apply a little pressure on the same shifter without pressing it all the way. At the same time, continue to pedal. The chain will change position within a few seconds. However, the technique only works when we have direct traction. Therefore, the trick will only work in cases where switching (up or down) is ensured by cable tension. Otherwise there is little point. Then you can simply shift to the next gear, hear the shift and return the stick back. True, the chain can slip past the desired sprocket. This happens on inexpensive, low quality switches or on improperly configured equipment.

If you do everything correctly, but the gears are still difficult to shift, pay attention to the condition of the chain and sprockets. After each ride, they must be cleaned of dirt and excess moisture. This is especially important when the chain needs to be lubricated as often as possible - in winter before each trip, in summer once a week. The cause of switching problems may also lie in wear of the mechanism. If suddenly the chain begins to slip right along the teeth, then it is time to change either the cassette or the corresponding sprocket. Also, if the switch is already old, the return springs may have weakened and the positioning may have gone wrong. It’s definitely not possible to configure such equipment to work perfectly.