The mass air flow sensor (MAF) can be characterized by two main parameters.
The first is the amount of air passing through it, the second is the reaction time. Different controllers react differently to these parameters. If the mass air flow sensor slightly underestimates or overestimates its readings, then, for example, the “January-5.1” controller, using an oxygen sensor, will be able to track this error and adjust the injection duration. The Bosch MP7.0 controller reacts more sensitively to this error, which leads to unstable idle speed. If the controller does not have an oxygen sensor in feedback, then this error can be compensated for by adjusting the injection ratio. This will help solve the problem only for a while.
If the mass air flow sensor has a long reaction time, then the “January-5.1” controller will not be able to track the beginning of a change in the amount of air flow during the operation of the machine, and this will be expressed as a “failure” at the time of acceleration. With the Bosh MP7.0 controller, this effect will be less pronounced, due to the presence of a sensor adaptation program in it.
One of the methods for diagnosing a mass air flow sensor is to check the sensor at idle speed and in the mode of a sharp increase in speed when the car is stationary. The sensor is usually controlled by a scanner. A working sensor at idle should show 8-9 kg/h and with a sharp increase in speed the maximum values ​​should be more than 220 kg. The higher the readings the sensor gives, the better.

The disadvantage of this method is the fact that the diagnostician must press the gas pedal quite sharply, which requires some skill. With a smooth increase in speed, the sensor reaches normal readings, but at the same time remains faulty. It turned out that for BOSCH sensors, there is a direct relationship between the response speed and the time of the transition process when power is supplied to the sensor itself. Also, the voltage after the transient process indicates a deviation of the readings of the passed air from the norm. For a working sensor, these parameters should be 2-20ms during the transient process and *1.03V after it. Moreover, the shorter the transition process time, the better. Any deviation from 1.03V up or down is a deviation from the norm.

Note: * 1.03V - this voltage will be if the measurement is made relative to the car battery. A more correct measurement is relative to the sensor ground. In this case, the device will show 1V. But this method is less convenient to connect, therefore, the measurement is usually carried out relative to the battery and an appropriate correction is made.

Mass air flow sensor - A capricious sensor - because it is too vulnerable and at the same time practically impossible to diagnose. The method described in the manual (taking readings at idle and 3000 rpm) does not give satisfactory results. In reality, if you suspect a malfunction of the mass air flow sensor, there is only one thing left:

Act at random - see what changes when installing a known-good mass air flow sensor.

The car started to stall all the time??? It is clear that with such behavior, the mass air flow sensor is most likely to blame. For this purpose, without hesitation, you need to find and install a new sensor.

1) The mass air flow sensor still cannot be diagnosed using homespun methods: (Diagnosis of “CE” when the mass air flow sensor fails is the exception rather than the rule.

2) I am increasingly convinced that the problem often discussed here: the engine stalls is in many cases caused by a malfunction of the mass air flow sensor.

3) The mass air flow sensor must be protected. The main enemy is air past the filter; in this case, the air flow sensor lives a maximum of 2..5 thousand km. To avoid this, it is necessary to eliminate leaks between the filter housing and the mass air flow sensor. Leaks are also possible due to the crooked location of the filter itself inside the housing. Well, of course, the quality of the filter is important. If everything is fine with air leaks, then it is believed that it gives correct readings for about 20 thousand km. After which it begins to lie - the dynamics deteriorate, consumption increases, and starting is difficult. The second enemy is crankcase gases reaching the mass air flow sensor.

I will be glad if these thoughts of mine allow someone to save time, nerves and money.

The mass air flow sensor is diagnosed very simply: you insert a pin between the rubber seal and the yellow wire in the mass air flow sensor contact and measure the voltage. Ideally - 0.99V. Well, plus an error of +-0.04V. If the voltage is more than 1.03, the mass air flow sensor is dead.

How does the controller itself diagnose the mass air flow sensor? In other words, a dead mass air flow sensor will miraculously be detected by the controller on its own. Moreover, it will do it better: you can measure the voltage with the device once, but the controller does this (conditionally) constantly, so it is able to “catch” short-term chatter, loss of contact, etc.
A completely faulty mass air flow sensor can be easily diagnosed: by measuring the voltage, taking readings with a diagnostic tool, etc. The trouble is that a completely faulty mass air flow sensor is very rare. SOMETIMES it causes the "CE" diagnostic, basically the car does not drive and does not start well.
In reality, a faulty mass air flow sensor is most often not diagnosed using available methods.