The Ural motorcycle is one of the most recognizable domestically produced motorcycles. Once its design was borrowed from the German model BMW R73, and during the Soviet Union, this motorcycle was the basis of the Soviet patrol and police forces, and was also used in paramilitary units. Time passes, and now this model is considered a classic of the domestic auto industry.
1 Motorcycle Ural - modern classic
The Ural is equipped with a very good, even by today's standards, engine, the volume of which is 750 "cubes" and has a capacity of 40 horsepower. Despite the fact that the weight of the motorcycle is more than 200 kilograms, it has excellent dynamics and gains momentum well. It also comes with hydraulic brakes and a military-inspired design that gives this bike the exclusivity that its many fans appreciate.
The new versions of this motorcycle are distinguished by high reliability and a special retro style, which is so rarely seen on modern models, unless, of course, we are talking about "cafe racers". But the Ural is a motorcycle from a different "test", its history goes back more than 70 years, so it is almost impossible to buy a modernized and tuned Ural in good condition today. Therefore, tuning comes to the aid of fans of this motorcycle, which is done by oneself or by specialists and includes several serious improvements, after which the motorcycle can really be considered an urban exclusive.
2 External tuning - a flight of fancy!
The design of this motorcycle is already impressive in its original form, especially if you prefer classic style. However, true bikers who own this model strive to make it exclusive and unique, at least in terms of appearance. There are many specialized studios that offer entire programs for tuning the Urals, but this is usually quite expensive, and it’s much more pleasant, you see, to do the tuning of the Ural motorcycle with your own hands.
The most common elements of exterior restyling for this model are changes in the shape of fairings and control knobs. In addition, owners very often get rid of too wide fenders and raise the handlebars, in the style of a "chopper". The fuel tank and muffler are also changed, and the main parts of the exterior are covered with chrome. Some motorists prefer to change the clutch and brakes, replacing them with all-metal ones.
Of course, each of the owners differently evaluates their strength in terms of external tuning of their iron horse, and the scope for imagination here is very large. On numerous forums, bikers post photos of their creations, give advice and share experiences.
3 Technical tuning of the Ural motorcycle
Despite the fact that the Ural motorcycle has quite good power, it is, frankly, far from perfect. That is why the modern owners of such a model strive to make this "classic" a powerful and serious competitor for many foreign models. As a rule, the technical tuning of this motorcycle consists of several stages. First of all, the special channels of the cylinder heads are cleaned. Since this model has a carburetor type engine, it is recommended to replace the native carburetor to improve its performance and dynamics. As a rule, the best solution is to install an upgraded version of the K-301 carburetor.
The technical changes don't stop there. For more pronounced engine operation, both air filters must also be replaced. As a rule, air filters from cars with a carburetor system, for example, from GAZ-24, are installed in the Urals. In the future, the correct setting and mandatory adjustment of the ignition on the cylinders takes place. Provided that these minimal changes were made correctly, the power of the modernized Ural can be raised to 43 horsepower.
It is worth remembering that the installation of an updated muffler, which is manufactured without taking into account recognized standards, will not allow the owner of a tuned Ural to undergo a technical inspection in the future. However, this circumstance stops few people, since the upgraded muffler is able to correct the sound and give the updated motorcycle the originality characteristic of foreign "choppers". And of course, it is worth noting that do-it-yourself tuning of a Ural motorcycle is a laborious task and will take a lot of time. But the result will certainly exceed all your expectations, because the true classic is eternal, and that is what those who own this motorcycle model, unique in style and history, strive for.
If you are a happy owner of a motorcycle and you are not satisfied with its appearance, then it's time to start improving this vehicle. Usually they buy a domestic friend as a shell: the rest is brought in the garage. It is not in vain that it is believed that the Urals, the tuning of which is quite an exciting process, can take a lot of time, but it's worth it. Can:
- with inserts, lengthen the feathers of the fork, at the same time and chrome;
- work on the rear wheel.
If the disc is fourteen inches, then the car will be suitable as a donor, but first it is worth calculating the hub or axle in order to adapt the new brake without any problems. To do this, weld a piece from the Urals, but with a slotted part. It will turn out a massive part, but not for everyone. For the rest, advice: leave the disk from the car and assemble it with knitting needles. The design will be much easier.
Do-it-yourself tuning of the Ural motorcycle: a selection of photos
Before driving the iron horse into the garage, look at a selection of photos or use the 3D online tuning program. Solve a few problems with it and only then get to work.
Alteration of the rear of the frame should take place in 2 stages:
- expand the pendulum;
- cut the seat tubes;
- weld curved, with a diameter of at least 28 mm (this decor serves as an amplifier-kerchief)
- install the rear shock absorbers at an angle: the suspension will become softer.
After the wide rear wheel is in place, pay attention to the rubber clutch: it should work without distortion, and the engine is slightly turned horizontally. Now you can proceed to the steps: move them forward - it will be comfortable for your legs:
- lengthen the frame of centimeters by 10 cm;
- move the engine back.
Pay less attention to the fact that such a landing is called incorrect. For each owner, it is individual.
If this stage is passed, then pick up a blank for the rear wing: an analogue can be taken from the stroller. If you need to make it deeper, then weld to it end-to-end (no need to putty) the plates cut out of it.
For the tank its stage:
- install a drop from an old opposer or
- remove the glove compartment with a grinder:
- the same actions with the neck, tunnel;
- cut the tank on top with a wedge;
- weld 2 halves in the back;
- cut unnecessary metal on the sides;
- weld the neck and tunnel;
- to seal inside, pour epoxy so that it spreads, let it dry.
Seats:
- cut the base from steel, 2 mm thick:
- put thin foam rubber;
- cover the structure with leather or suede.
Get rid of the steering wheel, make it simple: cut the handles, clutch levers, brakes from a piece of metal, preferably one-piece. Blanks for mirror racks should be cut out of steel 8 mm thick. Make the cases in the form of a sphere or buy similar ones in the store. Assemble one headlight from two: place the back part from the Izh, welding it to the front, taken from the search headlight. Silencers should be brought to the right side. Wherein:
- do not bend, but weld the exhaust pipe (left);
- leave the right one as standard, shortening it a little in the upper part (the leg will not melt);
- clean the seams, polish and chrome;
- insert valve springs from the car into the mufflers: you will get a “chopper” sound.
Ural motorcycle engine tuning: great opportunities
All engines on Ural motorcycles can be boosted. Additional power can be given as follows:
- clean the channels of the cylinder heads;
- adjust the compression ratio in each of them;
- check all phases of the gas distributor: inlet 70° - 140°, outlet 110° - 90°;
- carry out work with phases on the removed cam shaft and cam stones, by sawing with a drill or manually;
- diagnose the correct ignition setting for each cylinder: advance - from 40 ° to 42 °.
- ignition systems - synchronous: to do this, file the cams in the distributor, the ignition timing is the same;
- replace the old carburetor with K-301B;
- install 2 air filters from Moskvich-412 or take from GAZ-24;
- adjust the synchronism of the carburetor;
- the length and diameter of the exhaust pipes, mufflers - to your taste.
If all the work is done correctly, then the power will increase to 42 hp.
Ural motorcycle speedometer tuning
Less words - more deeds: an excellent video on the illumination of the speedometer of a Ural motorcycle.
Owners have always liked Soviet-made motorcycles, and even more so tuned equipment. Most of the motorcycles from the USSR are being modernized, and the legendary Ural is considered one of them.
This legend was released more than 70 years ago, and during this time the motorcycle has received more than one change from the owners. Therefore, today you can see excellent copies of the Urals with all the positive and negative sides.
History of the Urals
For the first time, the world learned about this new product back in the 20s of the last century, and then the first copy was produced with a powerful engine of 1,200 cubic meters and a power of only 24 hp. At low speeds, the Urals handled well, but after the mark of 60 km / h, this figure disappeared. It is also worth noting that the design and some parts of the motorcycle were borrowed from another foreign manufacturer, so the first Ural M-72 was not completely Russian, it had a particle of the German BMW R-71.
Further, the manufacturer experienced several ups and downs, the Second World War forced them to reconsider production. After the war, bikes were produced as military motorcycles with a special design: PKMB machine guns were built into them. Further in the Soviet Union, the legend was actively sold, about 3 million copies were sold. But after the collapse of the USSR, the situation deteriorated significantly and production dropped significantly. Today you can see photos of the new Ural motorcycles, 2015 was a great update for them.
Today's Urals are represented by several models at once. They are equipped with an engine with a volume of 750 cubic meters and a power of 40 horses. With a large weight of 200 kg, the motorcycle is able to ride at high speed without losing control. Also, the new motorcycles received a completely standard, but stylish appearance, which is made in a militaristic style.
Ural motorcycle tuning
Old Urals with ready-made tuning are unlikely to be on sale, because due to their great age, the modernized models have not survived to this day. Therefore, if you own an old, but still alive motorcycle, you can do tuning for the Urals with your own hands. If you want something large and special, contact the experts. If you are not a complete zero in tuning, then you should be aware that any upgrade includes: external and internal tuning. The second option means changing the technical characteristics of the motorcycle.
External tuning of the Urals
For lovers of the classics, this model will be an excellent option, and it is unlikely to need tuning. But any owner, with frequent trips in a crowd of other bikers, wants his motorcycle to be unique and special, so many seek to do external tuning. If you want to take something already known for Ural tuning, the photo will help you. On the presented images you can see all the imagination of the masters. Some people prefer to take their Urals to workshops, and due to the popularity of the motorcycle, there are several specialists in this model.
Most Soviet motorcycles have a completely standard set of elements that offer tuning. For the Urals, the following procedures can be carried out:
- changing fairings;
- side handle replacement
- installation of reduced wings;
- change in the size of the steering wheel;
- control knobs are being replaced.
After you raise the steering wheel, your motorcycle will look more like a real chopper from the Urals. Also common elements that are tuned are the muffler and brakes. Finally, the standard way to make a motorcycle even better is to chrome the metal parts (engine, muffler).
If you do not know what to do with your motorcycle Ural, dozens of bikers have already experienced tuning this model. Therefore, if you have a minimum of imagination, look at examples of motorcycle upgrades, you may like something.
Internal tuning of the Urals
Depending on the year of manufacture, your iron horse has excellent technical characteristics, so it does not need internal tuning so often. But for many, this power may not be enough, so the owners come to do the tuning of the Ural engine. Also below you will find other options for changing the characteristics of your motorcycle.
Engine tuning Ural
In order to improve engine performance, you will also have to change the frame, fit and even suspension. The most popular type of modernization of the Urals is forcing the engine, but this process has many difficulties. Firstly, it will not work to do the tuning of the Urals with your own hands, forcing is performed by a specialist. Also, if you upgrade by forcing, the torque will increase for the most part, and accordingly you can race in rallies.
Ural engine
If you do not want to carry out tuning or you prefer the classic Ural technology, check out the review of the new years. The news is something to impress.
In addition to these recommendations, when forcing the motor, the unit must be in perfect condition. An engine after a major overhaul or a completely new engine is allowed. And in conclusion, it is worth considering that the forcing process should take place only after you put pistons from the Dnieper into the Urals, and this is an additional bore of the cylinder.
Ural frame change
The material for creating a motorcycle frame is low-carbon steel, so it will not be easy to digest it to fit your needs. Optionally, you can install new pipes or increase the height of the steering wheel. Thus, the motorcycle will be more like a chopper. To improve the fit, the rear shock absorbers are changed. To carry out such tuning, you will have to mount shock absorbers under the wheels.
If you have installed a new frame, it is advisable to put a tank with an increased volume on the Urals. In order for the large fuel tank to fit into the frame, you will have to cut off unnecessary parts and remove the glove box. The final step will be the installation of a new seat, headlights, fenders and other details. Also, such a process will reduce the weight of your Ural, which will positively affect the dynamics and handling.
Video tuning Ural
Now the 21st century is already outside the window, everything around has changed, but the only thing that has remained the same in 70 years is the Urals. Motorcyclists who have never driven it will not understand all the pride of the domestic Irbit plant. Since 1957, this production has been producing high quality products, so if you intend to buy a motorcycle, then Ural is the best choice. Since 1960, do-it-yourself Ural motorcycle tuning has been an integral part of the work of amateur buyers.
Over the past 20 years, the company has improved many parts and made this motorcycle a tuning model, while the quality of products has improved. And even today, this production is not idle, but together with foreign partners improves its motorcycles. The latest tuned model was the M70 Sidecar, made for the 70th anniversary of the Irbit plant.
Ural is a tuned motorcycle model, which is constantly paid attention to. Motorcycle fans dream of buying it. However, it costs a lot of money, because of this, only real fans are able to purchase this model. In production, most motorcycles are made with a cradle.
Of course, in addition to road units, the company also produced sports models. They were made mainly for cross-country or road racing. Later, the Ministry of Defense of the USSR made an order for the creation of motorcycles for patrolling, and also for the military: equipped with a machine gun or a launcher carrier in place of the cradle.
Improvement of the Ural motorcycle.
You can do the tuning of the Ural motorcycle with your own hands or in the service, but in order to save money, it is better to stop at the first option. Therefore, when the appearance of the motorcycle ceases to suit, then it is necessary to deal with its modernization. As a rule, they acquire a domestic model in order to further improve it in the garage.
Tuning a motorcycle is an exciting activity, but it takes a lot of free time. To do this, you can: carry out work with the rear wheel; inserts to make the feathers of the fork longer and chrome them.
When a 14-inch disk is installed on the model, then Moskvich 2141 can be used as a donor, but before that, the axle and hub should be calculated. It is necessary to do this in order to apply the new brake without problems.
How to do the tuning of the Ural motorcycle yourself.
Intending to perform tuning yourself, you need to consider that it is divided into two types. There is external and internal tuning.
With the help of internal tuning, the chassis of the device is improved. To do this, the engine is boosted, suspensions, upgrades, brake and fuel systems are improved, and the exhaust system is also improved.
External tuning - improvement of the external appearance of motor vehicles with the addition or change of parts, instruments, external components, blocks, painting and polishing. But the chassis and the engine are not touched.
Driving the motorcycle into the garage first, it is advisable to look at the tuning of the Ural motorcycle, a photo of which you can easily find on the Internet or use a special program. The rear of the frame is redone in two stages:
- seat tubes are cut;
- curved pipes are welded, in which the diameter must be at least 28 millimeters;
- rear shock absorbers are mounted at an angle so that the suspension becomes softer;
- the pendulum expands.
When the wide rear wheel is in place, the rubber clutch should be checked. It works correctly when there is no skew, and the engine is slightly turned horizontally. Then you can do the steps. They are put forward, because the legs are more comfortable: the engine moves back, and the frame lengthens by 10 centimeters.
Such a landing is called incorrect, but this is not entirely true, because for each motorcyclist it is individual.
After this stage, a blank for the rear wing is selected. Often, an analogue is taken from a stroller, if you need to make it deeper, plates are welded to it butt-to-butt.
For the tank you will need:
- grinder to remove the glove compartment or put a drop from the old piston engine;
- the same is done with the tunnel and neck;
- two halves are welded in the back;
- a tank is cut from above with a wedge;
- all useless and unnecessary metal is cut out on the sides;
- the tunnel and neck are welded;
- to create a seal, epoxy resin is poured inside.
For the seats, the base is cut out of steel. Its thickness is approximately 2 mm. Thin foam rubber is laid on this base, and after that the resulting structure must be covered with suede or leather.
Clutch levers, brakes and handles are cut from solid metal. Faro must be assembled from two. Silencers are displayed on the right side, but at the same time:
- the left exhaust pipe cannot be bent, it just needs to be welded;
- the right exhaust pipe should be left as standard, slightly shorter at the top;
- polish, clean and chrome the seams;
- valve springs from the car are installed in the mufflers.
Ural engine tuning.
The engine is considered the main unit of the motorcycle, which determines the features of its frame and suspension. If deep tuning is performed, then it is imperative to start with the engine. On Ural motorcycles, it can be forced.
Important! Forcing the engine must be performed if it has undergone a good overhaul or is practically new. But when the engine does not meet these requirements, there is a danger of losing even what is available.
There are different methods to give it extra power, here are a few of them:
- Friction loss at the inlet should be reduced. To do this, remove obstacles, such as an air filter that prevents free suction.
- Change the carburetor, since the processes for obtaining air and fuel are carried out in it.
- Improve the engine. It is necessary to remove the offsets of the supply and purge windows. Then cut out unnecessary metal with a file, and at the top edge you need to raise the outlet window by about 2 centimeters. Further, the radii of curvature decrease and the sharp edges of the window are rounded off with a needle file. Having done all these actions correctly, the revolutions may increase by 1000.
- Exhaust system replacement. Since it is pointless to modify the existing system, you will have to create a silencer yourself like a resonator. So, the power can be increased by 10-15%, but it will not be possible to pass the technical inspection due to the ban on the installation of home-made silencers.
Note: if you are looking for quality tanning lamps at a bargain price, then you should visit drmuller.ru. Delivery in progress.
Video: Dnepr motorcycle tuning
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Everyone wants their motorcycle to be something different from the industrial model. This is how a person is arranged that he is drawn to the original, unique. As a matter of fact, just...
How disgusting the sound of the wheels.
It is stormy and muddy from trains.
And life is like a circle around a bandage
Runs forward, in addition, it twists.
How disgusted the roar of the engine
Triple track, gas pedal.
But I take out kirzachi, I take my overcoat
And on the way, and on the way in which time.
How disgusting this whole life is.
Everything is vanity, insanity, and we are looking for crazy money.
But I know that a wonderful, glorious hour will come,
When golden paws are woven to my geese.
How disgusted he was with himself.
Quarreled in blood. And I sit in a quarrel
I sit and wait when inside myself
Will unite me, some evil grief.
Then I cleaned it all, painted it.
Exhaust pipe homemade stainless steel echo, dashing 90s. Three days only polished it to a mirror. And he cleaned and knocked out all the same heavy horror. On the one hand, it can be hard to carry her, but there were two cases when she saved me through a muddy road in the forest. I stuck in the forest across the rut, went mushrooming, and not there and not the courts. I went in the morning at 5-00, it was dry. Went out at three o'clock after a good rain. I didn’t take a shovel or a hybrid of my chain. He cut the ground with an ax, sort of crawled out, and so just four. Once again, as he squirmed, he put an oak rod into the exhaust and, like a crowbar on the lever, the mot to the side. Fast and easy.
Tyaperecha, which is debatably practical.
Mudguard on the front guard, so that the dirt on the engine does not fly. He is so small there is nothing to overheat him.
Inserts from the corners on which the side step is attached - for a possible trailer to them by welding, and not to the frame, safety arcs when riding alone.
Bracket for fastening the seat and rear shield above the wing, and not under the wing for the possibility of creating and installing a second number seat.
Straps in the stroller for my little lads, for safety during the rides.
But that's about it in general terms. A couple of types.
There is a gearbox 9 on Chugunka. I did not change the plug and the speedometer drive.
To comply with the speed limit in the city, I made a sign for myself.
Bye! See you soon!
To begin with, it was necessary to reduce the skew angle in the gearbox-cardan area, because. there was already a case when in the winter with 12 people in a 9-degree frost, my elastic coupling was cut off. Fortunately, there was a spare, but the memory of replacing the clutch in winter in a dark forest is as fresh as it is now.
So, what did we have at the beginning of work with Chugunok.
To want:
1. Minimize the distortion of the gearbox-cardan to improve the operation of the clutch.
2. Move the driveshaft away from the wheel so that you can install full-fledged chains on the rear wheel, and not a tape-chain hybrid. Because the hybrid does not withstand more than a season, the tape rots and breaks.
3. Very stiff suspension. Change the angle of the shock absorbers. We get a softer suspension and gentle operation of shock absorbers (reducing the speed of linear movements of the piston and shock absorber cylinder, and, accordingly, its durability).
And-and-and-and. Go. I cut the pendulum, forge the inserts. There is no donor pendulum, so there are inserts.
I already had an extended cardan. And he lay waiting in the wings for twelve years. Made at BMZ, chrome plated. Many thanks to my godfather.
I'm making a slipway for an elongated pendulum. I cut the elements for welding, fasten and the familiar welded 6th category (not with a semi-automatic device, but with a normal apparatus, with normal electrodes) welds everything together.
I clean one edge of the insert (weld, only outside) flush, for beauty. I upholster the rest of the seams and lightly go through the grinding wheel on the grinder. There are no voids, lack of penetration, no slag. Everything is fine. I collect on a frame. The pendulum is extended by 130 mm.
I remove the mounting washers for the engine mounting studs. I sharpen the sleeve with a margin and cut it. Based on the width of the frame for engine installation.
The washers turned out to be not straight, but oblique as far as the frame width and the radial clearance of the engine mounting studs allowed to turn the engine across the frame axis in order to reduce the angle between the engine axles and the cardan.
What I have at the exit is the solution of the above questions.
I work further.
Debt.
I buy a chopper type based on Ural 8.103., only because of the engine. The frame is stripped. There are no documents. The guy graduated from college - a welder. The engine does not start (it turned out that the dampers on the K-68 were installed through EUROPE, the wide edge to the cylinder), the box is not friendly with the 4th, it barks like Sunrise (the teeth skip, there is no engagement). And many more things that can not be solved by welding. All winter basically killed on this engine and box. Collected set started. Ride. Adjusted. Run in. Impressions - indescribable. The operation of the engine as from childhood. Smooth pops in the cylinders, howling of timing gears, sometimes when changing the electrical load, a slipping howl of the generator gear. Clear operation of the box, without rattle and jerks. After running the engine took his father.
Reincarnation.
I collect Cast iron in a heap, I estimate the appearance, appearance, finish the sharp edges, etc. . . I understand again. Now for painting.
The painting scheme is simple - everything is black, and whites are like quotations - plump and thin.
What did remade.
Two parts - controversially technical and controversially aesthetic, sometimes defiantly practical.
The first is debatably technical.
Everything that spins, rotates, moves should work and not break.
Wheels - pull spokes, change bearings, seals, fresh grease, adjustment.
Fork - we change the oil, rubber bands and felt dusters, adjustment.
The steering column on stock thrust bearings is also fresher and all the balls.
The cables are newer, melt cyatim X motor, 50 X 50, pour into a shirt. Maybe now there are some new lubricants. I'm grandfatherly. How they taught.
The Ural engine and the box, as I already wrote above, tormented me all winter - capital. Bearings, oil seals, timing gears, camshaft, CPG changed hung sharpened, changed the valves priter. Adjusted. Gearbox oil seal bearings, part of the gears changed, adjusted.
The reducer made a nine. Same scheme. What dangled - replace. Bearings, seals, wedge. I regulate.
We change pads. More precisely, the pads on the pads changed. I glued paper-based emery on PVA to the drum. I clamped it with adjusting bolts and turned the wheel, blew it. Then I soaked the emery with water and wiped it off. When the brakes went out - fire. Well, it's like fire - as always in the Urals or the Dnieper. 80 KaMe - where are you, where are you; 20 KAME - already in the skid and sliding on the asphalt like Plushenko with new vertebrae on the ice of the Sochi arena - beautifully, sliding like that.
But these are all the costs of the technology of the last century. Those who have been driving since childhood know how to play both front and back, and how many people and how many are loaded, and what speed limit and distance to maintain.
We understand that bolts, screws, washers, engravers are consumables. If something interesting - try on the tooth. On the tooth of a file - and we are looking for a material similar in hardness for manufacturing.
Wiring according to the MT10-36 scheme. With the same wire marking on fresh wires. Where practical car pads for connecting wires. Mums and dads are irradiated through the crucible so that they do not oxidize with copper. Electronic ignition, electronic voltage adjustment relay.
Cars on the steering wheel fresh China. With revision on the leads on the "gas" cables, soldering all the connections in a circle
The second is debatably aesthetic.
The front shield from the P-4 cracker and feathers were sanded from rust with emery 1000, 1500, polished - GOI paste No. 3. Degreased varnished.
Faro polished - GOI paste.
Tank checked, digested fasteners. From what model of the Urals I don’t know. Outwardly, it looks like a simple Uralovsky, but there is a glove box like on a drop of K-750. It is clear that not with the M-66 and not with the M-67. Made installed side pads for the legs of the second number.
The driver's seat, the cushion and back of the stroller, the spare wheel, the stroller's awning, the handlebars were sheathed with leatherette. Well, that is, EXCEPTIONAL SKIN. If before that the driver's seat and spare tire were made with laces so that they would not fly off, then this time I sewed them with an insert of a wide elastic band. Already at the end of the break-in, when I went out at a speed of 80-90, everything is fine, nothing flies.