If the battery is completely dead in the car, then you should not panic. There are several easy ways to solve this problem. In the life of many drivers, a situation has happened when, when trying to start the engine, the starter emits a slow “grunt” or just clicks of the starter relay, and the starter itself does not work. The discharge of the battery is also confirmed by the dim light of the dashboard, it starts flashing when trying to start the engine. This suggests that the battery has simply used up its charge and cannot provide the starter with the necessary amount of energy to rotate the crankshaft.
If there is enough time and nowhere to rush, then it is best to provide conditions for recharging the battery, and then start and go on about your business. However, as is usually the case, battery drain occurs just when the car is needed. A dead battery is not a hopeless situation, there are several methods to start the engine even with a heavily discharged battery.
- Short circuit in wiring.
- Battery misuse.
- Included electrical equipment.
Usually the problem appears from the forgetfulness of the driver. He can leave the backlight, radio, interior lighting turned on for the night, or he did not close the door, they also often leave the heated seats turned on in winter. In the morning, the driver finds out that the battery is completely discharged. Another reason could be negligence. While resting, the owner of the car listened to music for a long time, and was sure that the battery capacity would be enough to start the engine. As a result, the car will not start.
Often a problem with the battery occurs in winter, if the battery has already served a long time. An unprepared battery for a cold climate can further worsen the situation. If you do not maintain it and never charge it, then, in the end, it will simply use up its charge.
It should be remembered that the battery is subject to slow wear and tear, and the capacity decreases every month.
Worse, if it is discharged due to a short circuit. From this, she will not only sit down quickly, but also receive great damage, which will significantly reduce her service life.
But how to start the engine if there is such a problem with the battery, and if there is no way to light it? Previously, such a problem practically did not arise, since on old machines a ratchet was built into the crankshaft pulley, which was a special nozzle with projections. In the body there was a hole located in the direction of this ratchet, and in the trunk there was always a “crooked starter” in the form of a curved handle. With it, the driver could spin the crankshaft and start the engine.
Modern cars no longer have such a starter in their kit, although sometimes it would be very useful. Domestic drivers have Russian ingenuity, and have already come up with a lot of other ways, which we will talk about.
There are many different ways to start an engine with a dead battery, so don't worry too much in this situation. However, the characteristics of the device of the car affect this. To start the car engine, you can use the following methods:
- By towing or pushing.
- With the help of "smoking".
- Starter charger.
- With "quick charge".
- Spinning the drive wheel.
- "Drunken battery."
Starting the engine "from the pusher"
The most popular method of starting a car engine is "from the pusher". It has been used by drivers for decades, and does an excellent job of starting the engine. Its essence is to rotate the crankshaft of the engine, through the transmission, pushing the car along the road with the gear engaged, or using a cable to tow it with another car. Next, you need to proceed as follows:
- Before towing or pushing the vehicle, it is necessary to engage second gear or reverse gear. The main condition here is a non-slip road surface, otherwise you will not be able to start the engine.
- Turn on the ignition, press the clutch pedal and you can start moving by giving a command.
- After picking up speed, you must sharply release the clutch pedal. Through the drive wheels, the transmission will begin to spin the crankshaft of the motor. When the engine starts and starts to work evenly, you need to press the clutch pedal and adjust the engine speed with the gas pedal so that it does not stall.
Now let's look at some features of starting the engine "from the pusher". Most likely, in winter, on a slippery road, it will not work to start the engine, unless, of course, the wheels are without studs. The grip of car tires with the road is low, and when the speed is on, they will slide on it. Towing in this case is a more acceptable option, but it will take longer to pull the car to get the wheels to rotate.
This method is not suitable for cars with automatic transmission. Although injection cars are also not always, it turns out, they can be started from a pusher. However, in an urgent situation, this is allowed.
Starting the engine "lighting"
The most acceptable option for starting the engine in urban conditions is the "lighting" method, since it is suitable for any car, and besides, in the city you can quickly find someone to "light up". The essence of this method is to use the charge from another charged battery. To implement this method, it is necessary to have special powerful wires in the trunk, equipped with power tips - "crocodiles".
Procedure
- Find a "light-up" car with a well-charged battery, and make sure it gets closer to your car so that the starter wires are long enough.
- Turn off the ignition on both cars. Connect the two batteries together with the cigarette lighter wires and clamps. In this case, it is not required to disconnect them from the vehicle's on-board network. An important point is to observe the polarity of the wires: connect the plus to the plus, and also connect the negative pole to the minus of the other battery.
- Start the engine of the donor car.
- Start your car's engine and let it run to provide at least a slight charge to the battery from the alternator.
- Stop the engine, disconnect the wires.
- Try to start the engine on your battery, which has received a small charge. If the launch fails, then the procedure will have to be repeated. It is not recommended to start the engine with a dead battery if the donor engine is running. This contributes to the failure of some elements of the donor's electrical equipment. It is better to start a diesel car from a diesel car, and a gasoline car can be started from any car.
This method can be considered universal, as it is suitable for any car, and with any gearbox. The only difficulty is finding a car from which you can "light up".
ROM is a special device for starting an engine with a discharged battery. It can be standalone or online. The essence of the method is similar to the "lighting" method, only the device we are considering serves as a donor. This method is the most effective and convenient, but such a device is not always available. Therefore, this method is suitable for those who have such a start-charger.
fast charge
This method is suitable when there is a charger with a current setting. The battery must be charged for 15 minutes with a high current not exceeding 10% of the battery capacity. If, for example, the battery capacity is 55 ampere-hours, then you need to supply a current of no more than 5.5 amperes.
Procedure
- Remove the battery from the car.
- Put the battery on charge and set the necessary charge parameters. In this case, the battery plugs should be unscrewed, as the boiling process will occur.
- Wait 15 minutes and unplug the charger.
- Install the battery in the car.
- Start the engine.
This method is more efficient, but for the battery, this negatively affects its service life.
Spinning the drive wheel - the "sling" method
Spinning the wheel with a “sling” is an original way that replaced the manual starter. Its essence lies in the manual promotion of the crankshaft, but through the transmission.
Procedure
- Raise the drive wheel with a jack.
- Engage fourth gear.
- Wrap a rope, tow rope or sling at least five meters long around the suspended wheel. In this case, the rotation of the wheel should be in the direction of movement of the car.
- Turn on the ignition.
- Pull the tow rope sharply, spinning the wheel.
After that, the car engine should start, but there are some features:
- In winter, this method is not suitable for a cold engine.
- The method can be used for engines up to 1.5 liters.
- You can only start the engine in this way with a manual transmission.
For diesel cars, as well as with automatic transmission, this method is not used. Some masters claim that there is a similar way to start the engine of a car with an automatic transmission, but it needs to be done in a slightly different way. To do this, it is recommended to remove the drive belt from the crankshaft pulley, and wind a rope around it, which is then pulled.
In fact, this is nonsense, since the removed belt drives the generator, which charges the battery and provides power to all the electrical equipment of the car. If the battery is discharged, and even turn off the generator, the engine will not be able to start, as there will be no electricity to operate the electrical equipment. The whole point of starting the engine with a dead battery is to connect the on-board network to the generator.
Starting the engine with a "drunk battery"
Launching in this way is used when other methods cannot be used. After this method, the battery will have to be replaced with a new one. But if there is no other way out, and you have an alcoholic drink with you, then you can start the engine.
All work consists in pouring liquid containing alcohol into the battery. You can consider dry red wine, preferably without sugar. In each jar you need to pour 30 grams of wine. The electrolyte actively reacts with alcohol, as a result, the voltage rises, and the battery resistance decreases. This voltage should be enough to start the engine.
After that, the battery is significantly damaged, and its further use is impossible.
If the battery is dead and the car does not open
The electric drive of car doors has become familiar to us. Doors can be opened by pressing a button on the key fob. But what if the battery is dead? There are several ways without damaging the body. Each method requires a special tool, so the method is chosen depending on the situation.
Kinds of ways
- With a key. Many drivers are so accustomed to the buttons that they have already forgotten about the existence of the key. But if the door has not been opened with a key for a long time, then the lock larvae may oxidize and prevent the key from being turned.
- Connecting to the generator terminal and a charged battery to ground. But the hood is closed, so you have to connect the wires from below.
- By pressing the door frame with a special tool. The door is then opened with a long steel hook inserted into the gap between the post and the door frame.
- Lowering the door glass. If the car has mechanical windows, then you can try to lower the glass by hand. This is done without tools, only with the palms. If you manage to lower the glass before a small gap appears, then there is no need to prompt further.
- If the hood cable is under the wing. The car is raised with a jack, the fender liner is removed. Then you need to feel the cable with your hand and pull it until the hood opens.
Many motorists are familiar with the situation when, in a cold winter, your iron friend suddenly refuses to start. The frozen heart of the machine - the BATTERY - gives three or four weak shocks and stops showing signs of life.
This is where the understanding comes to us that the CAR * sets in motion not only the motor. No matter how powerful the ENGINE is, you can forget about a comfortable ride without a normal battery.
What are the types of batteries, what kind of processes occur when it is charging and discharging, how to properly restore an old battery and use a new one? We will talk about all this in this article.
The most significant are the following three indicators of the car battery.
CAPACITY, expressed in ampere-hours (Ah). It characterizes the ability of the battery to give a certain current for a certain time. For example, a 40 amp-hour capacity means that the battery can deliver 1 amp for 40 hours (or 2 amps for 20 hours, etc.).
STARTING POWER. Namely, the value of the maximum output power that the battery can produce for 30 seconds at a temperature of minus 18 degrees C. This indicator characterizes
the ability of the battery to start a cold engine.
RESERVE POWER. This parameter, especially revered in America, shows the time interval (in minutes) during which the battery is capable of delivering a current of 25A (that is, for how long it can replace a failed GENERATOR *).
What's inside the battery.
A standard car battery consists of six 2-volt cells, which gives a 12-volt output. Each element consists of lead lattice plates coated with an active substance and immersed in an acidic electrolyte.
The negative plates are coated with finely porous lead, while the positive plates are coated with lead dioxide. When a load is connected to the battery, the active substance enters into a chemical reaction with the sulfuric acid electrolyte, generating an electric current. In this case, lead sulfate precipitates on the plates, and the electrolyte, accordingly, is depleted. When charging, this reaction takes place in the opposite direction, and the ability of the battery to provide current is restored.
The car battery has three main functions:
- he starts the engine
- Powers some electrical devices such as alarms and telephones when the engine is not running.
- helps the generator when it can't handle the load.
The battery is usually next to the engine. And just this unit does not tolerate high temperatures. This is perhaps the biggest problem for battery manufacturers today. After all, the upper limit of the operating temperature of these devices is 100 degrees C, then the electrolyte simply boils. But even if the temperature does not reach the fatal limit, but only approaches it, the battery life is still reduced by three to four times.
Idle mode.
Idle car in the winter in "traffic jams" - a real problem for the battery. The fan, headlights, rear window defroster, and windshield wipers running at the same time can draw more current than the alternator produces. In 45 minutes of such work, the average battery can be depleted so much that it will no longer be possible to restart the switched off engine. Recovery will require at least 30 minutes of normal driving before you can stop again.
Audi, BMW, Jaguar and Rolls-Royse removed the battery
from the engine compartment, and the disadvantages of having an additional wire were balanced by the increased reliability of the battery. In models of the class "supermini" batteries were always in the trunk.
There are other solutions as well. For example, in the new Peugeot 406, a battery with a double
body. Air is forced between the walls, which protects the battery from overheating.
Why do batteries fail?
In fact, there is nothing special to break in the battery itself. In any case, the cause of most malfunctions is not related to its own defects, but to the presence of additional equipment, for example, dimensions, alarms and telephones left on, leakage current, which is not uncommon on a new car. These devices are especially fond of presenting "surprises" during long car parking, for example, at airports.
Car manufacturers use the “weakest” battery possible to save money, so any additional electrical load can cause a malfunction.
The battery itself during the service, of course, wears out and, in the end, fails. This is due to corrosion of the plates, depletion of their active coating and depletion of the electrolyte. The increased temperature contributes to this, so that most often the damage occurs in the summer, and with the first frost the “fun life” begins. Typically, the battery life is about four years, but depends to a large extent on the mode of use.
However, if your battery suddenly starts to act up, do not rush to throw it away. Our experience shows that a huge number of car batteries, which were considered
faulty, were simply discharged. Try to charge a dead battery as soon as possible. How
the longer the battery remains uncharged, the more sulfation of the plates, and the more problematic it will be
recovery.
The battery needs to be taken care of.
Many car owners are genuinely surprised when they learn that the battery also requires "maintenance". This is unfortunate, because a little care and attention can save a lot of time and money.
Caring for the battery is extremely simple and practically comes down to regular checks of the electrolyte level. A low level may indicate overcharging, which is usually caused by a malfunctioning alternator. If the electrolyte is missing in only one of the cells, then the failure of the entire battery is not far off. In warm weather, he will still work somehow, but the first cold will finish him off.
A few years ago, “maintenance-free batteries” were in high demand, which was structurally reduced to a deaf sealing of the top cover. Over time, this fashion passed, because, if, for some reason, the electrolyte was lost, it was no longer possible to add it.
When topping up the battery, remember one feature. During charging, the electrolyte level rises slightly, so top up should take this effect into account. And we all know perfectly well what acid can do if it gets on the battery case or on body parts.
Security measures when starting from an external source.
- Never smoke while starting the engine from an external source.
- Tuck in loose clothing and remove metal jewelry and objects.
- Make sure the cars are not touching each other.
- Do not touch the car body yourself.
- Turn everything off before unplugging the cable.
Security questions.
Remember that there is a real risk of ignition of oxygen and hydrogen released during charging (and also after it is completed).
Although most major manufacturers equip battery caps with flame arresters designed to prevent flames from entering the battery, this possibility still exists - as they say, God saves the safe.
Remember also that a spark does not only occur when the terminal is disconnected. Static electricity from synthetic clothing can be enough to cause an explosion.
An explosion of a battery can be compared in terms of power with a shot from a 12 mm gun. The result is an eerie sight, and it happens more often than you might imagine. For example, in cautious America, there are more than ten thousand such cases a year.
While the explosion is not likely to be fatal, it can seriously injure you, especially your face, as the pieces of plastic are thrown in all directions. Therefore, you should always wear safety glasses.
The next thing to pay attention to is vibration. After high temperature and electrical overload, this is the main cause of battery wear. The mechanism of this effect is simple: any "chatter" gradually shakes off the active substance from the plates. Therefore, make sure that the battery is firmly fixed.
And finally, check the terminals. They must be clean and well tightened to avoid sparks. Some grease the terminals, others find it only encourages dirt to build up, so the choice is yours.
Resuscitation for the battery.
The battery, hopelessly "dead" one frosty Monday morning - this is the frequent cause of the collapse of so many brilliant service careers
What to do?
You can try to start the car in several ways: “light it up” from the battery of another car (which can be problematic with the current level of “winding up” electronics); push the car or pull in tow (but not with a catalytic converter); go and buy a new battery.
The latter method is especially bad, because in the vast majority of cases, a “dead” battery can be restored. With the right recharge, in most cases, it is restored to its original state and continues to live and fight further.
You shouldn't hurry.
Gone are the days when the battery was simply connected to the charger and left overnight. Charging the battery must be done at a certain “speed”, otherwise various troubles await you.
Ideally, the charging current for a typical lead-acid battery should be 10% of its amp hour.
characteristics. For example, a fully discharged 50 Ah battery should be charged
at a current of 5 amperes for ten hours. Charging must take place with the covers removed.
And I want to go faster, but I can't. This can lead to overheating, and even to boiling of the electrolyte. The plates can also warp, then the battery is over. If your battery is sealed, "maintenance free" (see above), then you have to charge it even more slowly - no more than 2.5% of the ampere-hour characteristic.
So, in the same example, a fully discharged 50 amp-hour sealed battery requires a charging current of 1.25 amps for 40 hours. For partially discharged batteries, this time will, of course, be shorter.
Most chargers are equipped with a charging current regulator. It is especially convenient if there is a "decreasing charge" mode. In this case, as the battery is charged, the charging current is automatically reduced to prevent possible overcharging.
The general rule here is that the slower you charge, the better. However, do not keep the battery charged for too long. Concerning the determination of the moment when the process should be completed, opinions differ. Some calculate the time required for charging and turn off the device after it has passed, others wait until all the elements begin to bubble and turn off only then.
Some more powerful chargers are equipped with a fast charging function. It should be used
only under emergency circumstances when the car needs to be started as soon as possible. In this mode
increased charging current is applied for a certain period of time, after which the device turns itself off. It still shortens battery life.
When there's no time to wait
With a dead battery, the quickest solution is to start the engine from an external source. But for this, in addition to an external source, you also need a cable. A variety of types of starter cables are produced, but motorists consider them, like batteries, an unnecessary luxury and buy the first set that catches their eye without thinking about quality.
And this is again unfortunate, because the quality is often simply monstrous - after all, a lot of "left", handicraft cables go on sale. Sometimes, at the first use, the insulation (or even the core itself) of the cable melts (remember that a large current flows through it). If such a cable survived, then it will still heat up, which is why energy is lost and there is a risk of fire.
Connection order.
1. Connect the red cable to the (+) terminal on the charged battery.
2. Connect the other end of the red cable to the (+) terminal on the dead battery.
3. Connect the black cable to the (-) terminal on the charged battery.
4. Connect the other end of the black cable to a clean ground point on the engine block or CHASSIS, as long as it is away from the battery, carburetor, fuel hoses, etc. At the time of connection, be prepared for a small spark.
5. Keep both cables clear of moving parts.
6. Start the car with a charged battery and let it run for at least one minute.
7. Try starting the car with a dead battery. If the engine does not start, wait a few minutes and try again. If it starts, then let it work for a few minutes in this position.
8. Turn off the car with a charged battery.
9. When disconnecting the cable, follow the above procedure in reverse order.
Extended Battery Life
Let's remember how the simplest rules are followed, following which will ensure a long battery life.
Types and service life
Commercially available batteries are generally classified as low-maintenance or maintenance-free. The former, due to a more advanced design, rarely need to top up with distilled water - usually the level drops no earlier than a year and a half after the start of operation.
Both low-maintenance and maintenance-free batteries, under favorable operating conditions, serve for a long time - 4-5, and sometimes 7-9 years. However, a few lucky people use their full potential: most have a battery life of four years, some change the "energy keeper" after the third season, and some car owners manage to buy a new battery almost every year!
What affects the battery life so significantly that for some it works only 20-30% of the declared period?
Not all batteries are the same
Beautifully designed boxes with a pair of terminals are similar to each other only externally. As a rule, only high-quality batteries during tests give similar results and, all other things being equal, serve approximately the same. True, with one caveat - during normal operation and only if a "fresh" battery is purchased - dry-charged, released no more than three years ago; or flooded, in which the period of storage from the date of production does not exceed six months. Dry-charged batteries usually retain their charge during the first year of storage, then after filling the electrolyte, it needs to be recharged. Alas, a long downtime for a new battery is by no means harmless - the absence of regular charge / discharge cycles and the possibility of inevitable self-discharge reduce the life provided by the manufacturer by twenty percent. Therefore, do not be surprised if an expired imported battery from a well-known manufacturer purchased at an attractive price lasts no more than a cheap one.
Accuracy above all else
Some fifteen years ago, in every manual on car business, it was certainly described how to measure the density of the electrolyte and even repair the battery yourself by disassembling and reassembling it! Modern batteries are not forced to resort to such measures - to maintain them in full “combat readiness”, it is enough to prevent deep discharge, regularly “refreshing” it with a charger, helping the battery in the bitter cold with a “starter” and topping up with distilled water as needed.
The battery itself must be kept perfectly clean, regularly wiping the case and terminals. The increased density of the electrolyte is a source of accelerated destruction of the battery plates, and the reduced density (when discharged by more than 25%) is the culprit of plate sulfation or electrolyte freezing at sub-zero temperatures, which reduces battery life.
Chronic undercharge
It is quite possible that for many days the battery works more in discharge mode than in charging. The fact is that immediately after starting in winter, a number of additional energy consumers are usually turned on - the “stove”, windshield wipers, rear window heating and often dipped beam.
In particular, the batteries of domestic cars suffer, in which the necessary amount of electricity for charging is generated at engine speeds of at least 2500-3000 rpm! And where can I get them in the city, when you have to “crawl” in traffic jams almost at idle half the way to work? So it turns out that the battery is operated in a constant "malnutrition" mode, which leads to natural discharge?
When size matters
When buying a new battery, many motorists prefer a product with a larger capacity than a regular battery, citing the fact that it both turns better and discharges more slowly.
Unfortunately, such a battery (compared to the “assigned” regular one) is doomed to “early death”, since the “large” battery simply will not be fully charged! And constant undercharging leads to a rapid decrease in capacity. That is why the "monster" with a capacity of 75 Ah will last less than the native 55th?
If desired, the battery can be constantly recharged after trips, but let's be realistic - only a few do such a "ritual". The majority simply ignores recharging, justifying their carelessness with the “capacity” of the battery and the fact that it is new. And absolutely in vain!
By screws!
Alas, many motorists operate their "iron horses" with disturbed adjustments of power and ignition systems, which leads to difficult starting of the engine. But for the battery, it is the starter current that reaches hundreds of amperes that is most destructive! If during the day a negligent owner turns the STARTER several times, and each start-up lasts 15-20 seconds, then after one or two winter seasons (at best!) Will the battery start to “turn sour”?
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT
Even with a working factory “electrician”, situations are possible when the battery is gradually discharged. The reason is that, in addition to regular consumers of electricity, there are all kinds of additional ones: drives for locks, mirrors and windows, additional fog lights and brake lights, a tire inflation compressor and, of course, a powerful audio system!
Even a modest two-channel power amplifier consumes a decent amount of energy - after a 15-minute demonstration of the capabilities of the audio system, the voltmeter displays under load a miserable 11.4 V instead of the usual 12.5 V!
In a word, lovers of powerful audio installations, keep in mind - sometimes installers are bashfully silent about where to get the power supply for the "dragon" - the amplifier, this issue is solved in only one way - by replacing the generator with a more powerful one and installing a pair of batteries.
Article rating
With the advent of cold weather, after 2-3 days of car inactivity, the battery died. After a full charge after 3 days, the battery died again, while the machine was not used at all. Therefore, it is unlikely that the reason is the poor performance of the generator.Replaced the battery. The same story, 3 days and all. I could not find any burning light bulbs and other possible electrical consumers.
Answer:
The description sounds like a leak in the electrical system. It is necessary to check with an ammeter with a permissible current value of 10 A or more. All electrical and lighting devices in the car, including the alarm, must be turned off. If the electrical equipment is in good condition, the ammeter reading will be 20-30 mA (taking into account the features of the circuit solutions of the electrical equipment of a particular car). Such currents do not have a negative impact on the battery when the car is inactive for 1-2 months. If the car has an on-board computer and other additional electronic devices, the current consumption can increase up to 50mA. In this case, the recommended maximum idle time of the car should not exceed 3 weeks in summer and 10-15 days in the cold season. Otherwise, the battery may be discharged to the point where it cannot start moving after a long period of inactivity.
It is possible to diagnose the presence of leakage if the current exceeds 50mA.
How to detect a leak in a car's electrical system?
Answer:
To diagnose a leak, you can use an ammeter with a permissible value of the measured current of 10 A or more. It is necessary to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery terminal, and an ammeter is included in the open circuit. At the moment, all electrical appliances, the sound part of the security organization and the light must be turned off. If the electrical equipment and wiring are in good condition, the ammeter reading will be 20-30 mA. Such a leakage current does not harm the battery when the car is inactive for 1-2 months. If the car has an on-board computer and other additional electronic devices, the current consumption can increase up to 50mA. In this case, the recommended maximum idle time of the car should not exceed 3 weeks in summer and 10-15 days in the cold season. Otherwise, the battery may be discharged to the point where it cannot start moving after a long period of inactivity. It is possible to diagnose the presence of leakage if the current exceeds 50mA.
Why is the battery dead in a running car?
On the way to the dacha, we stood in a long traffic jam, it was hot outside, the air conditioner was turned on, the radio tape recorder was on, we practically did not move, the car was constantly on "D". After 5 hours of "standing", I stopped at the tent, and could not start the car. Lighted up - wound up with a half turn. What could be, and why did the battery die?
Answer:
In this situation, this is normal. The generator is able to charge the battery only at medium and high engine speeds. The average loads for the included electrical appliances are:
- 3 A - radio,
- 9 A - dipped headlights,
- 24 A - air conditioning.
In total, it turns out for 5 hours of traffic jams consumed (3A + 9A + 24A) x5h = 180 Ah. And we must not forget about other electrical equipment of the car, for example, candles. The generator does not fully cope with the need for electricity, and the battery compensates for this shortage and is discharged.
What happens to the battery during a long discharge (more than a month)? How to start resuscitation of the battery?
Answer:
Lead-acid batteries are very afraid of deep discharges - more than 30%. In such cases, they must be included in the charge as soon as possible.
The active mass of a discharged battery turns into white lead sulfate (PbSO4), a dielectric. If the battery is left in a discharged state for a long time, then the lead sulfate crystals increase in size and harden, which leads to shedding of sulfates. When you try to charge the battery in the usual mode, warming up and abundant gas emission will occur.
In deep discharge, a small direct current charge is usually used until the voltage and density of the electrolyte stabilize. This mode allows you to restore battery performance by 80-90%. If the discharged battery has stood idle for a whole month, you can try with a current of 0.5-1 A until the voltage stabilizes. This procedure may take several days. It is strongly not recommended to add water or electrolyte if the level is normal (15-20 mm above the top edge of the electrodes). When charging in this mode, the onset of gas evolution in all cells will indicate that the charge is 70-80% complete. If recharged successfully, this battery will have a lower electrical rating and will not be able to keep the vehicle running properly.
Can power lines drain a battery?
If the car is parked under power lines, does the battery self-discharge rate increase or not?Answer:
Electrochemical processes occurring in the battery do not depend on the action of electromagnetic fields. If the car is under a high voltage power line, nothing will happen to the battery if it is not connected to any electronic device. Vehicle electrical equipment can be sensitive to strong electromagnetic fields. If in practice there were cases when the battery was quickly discharged, most likely they were associated with incorrect operation of the vehicle's electrical equipment, which increased the leakage current to several 100 ml A.Unfortunately, almost every motorist faced the discharge of the battery. This is a very unpleasant event, even more unpleasant because, as a rule, it occurs in the morning. You approach your car, you have some plans for the day, for example, you need to urgently get to one place or another.
Get behind the wheel, turn the key in the ignition, and nothing happens. As a result, you have to change your plans on the spot and somehow get out of the situation, because a car with a dead battery is absolutely lifeless.
What to do and why this happens, we will consider in this article.
Causes of Discharging Batteries
First. There are many reasons why a battery may die, but the most common is failure due to the end of battery life.
Despite the fact that technological progress is sweeping the planet by leaps and bounds, in the field of car batteries, it has been mothballed at the level of the 80-90s of the last century.
Even those batteries that are produced today can be considered worse in quality than those produced in the USSR. They are still lead, still acidic, and just as susceptible to sulphation as their brethren were almost a quarter of a century ago.
Only if their Soviet counterparts were adapted to repair and the possibility of extending their service life, then today the batteries are maintenance-free and simply thrown away.
So if your battery is already 5 years old or more, then its failure is 90% related to the end of its service life and it’s just time for you to change the battery.
Two. Another common cause of battery drain is intermittent charging.
This can happen due to several situations:
- Generator failure:
- Damage to the battery charging circuit;
- Broken alternator belt;
- Loosening the alternator belt tension;
- Burnout of the diode bridge in the generator;
- Failure of the voltage regulator.
Three. The third reason on our list can be considered a curiosity. Although the consequences of it are by no means curious, but more than serious.
This is a discharge of the battery due to the consumer left on. Most often, drivers in the car forget to turn off the lights in the cabin or leave the radio on.
In a word, if some consumer of electricity is left on at night, then in the morning you can expect a discharged battery.
Four. Well, the last reason is the most banal - severe frost on the street. The fact is that under the influence of low temperatures, the capacity of the battery decreases.
This is superimposed on the fact that under the influence of low temperatures the oil in the engine thickens and in order to crank it, the starter needs more energy.
Thus, if your battery is not the first freshness, and the ambient temperature has seriously decreased, then the energy reserve in the battery may not be enough to start the engine.
How to understand that the battery has sat down to zero
If the cause of the discharge is not visually visible, then the method of finding it is as follows.
First of all, you need to check the level of charge that the battery gives. This is done using a device - a multimeter.
During normal operation of the generator, the multimeter should show a charge level in the range of 13-15 volts.
How to start a car if the battery is dead
What to do if the battery is still dead, but you need to go. There are several ways to solve this problem and they will be discussed in detail below.
smoking
This method has nothing to do with cigarettes and tobacco smoking. And it is named so because of the analogy with lighting from one cigarette to another.
To start the car engine in this way, you will need wires for lighting.
In order to start the car with the help of such wires you need:
- Drive the car from which the lighting will be made as close as possible to the car with a discharged battery, as close as possible so that the wires from the terminals of your battery reach the terminals of the donor car.
- We connect the wires of the battery of two cars. In this case, it is important to ensure that the wire from the positive terminal of the donor car is connected to the positive terminal on the car with a discharged battery. In the same way, we carefully monitor the connection of negative terminals. Thus, you connect the on-board network of your car to the batteries of another car.
- After this simple procedure is done, you can start the car. After the start is made, you remove the wires. The on-board network starts to work from the generator, and your battery starts to charge.
- Naturally, it is impossible to turn off the engine immediately after lighting up, since the battery will be charged in a few minutes, it will not have time.
Smoking without wires
Another option for lighting, in cases where there are no wires for lighting at hand, is the option with the transfer of the battery. To do this, you will need a set of wrenches so that you can remove the battery from the donor car and, of course, from your car.
You simply change your battery to a battery from someone else's car, and then start. After the car has started to idle, you can change the batteries back.
It must be remembered that when you remove the terminals from the battery, the car will not stall, as it will be powered by a generator. This will give you the opportunity to install the battery on a running machine, after which the discharged battery will begin to charge.
Pusher launch
This way of starting the engine, I think, is known to all motorists. He is the simplest. He does not need any additional accessories, only physical strength, or a few strong friends.
By the way, you can start it yourself, but for this you need the car to stand on a hill.
This method also has limitations, with a pusher you will never start a car equipped with an automatic transmission.
This method is only suitable for cars equipped with mechanics. How to start a car in this way?
The engine is started in the following order:
- The driver gets behind the wheel and turns on the ignition;
- After that, you turn on the second gear and squeeze the clutch;
- The car begins to accelerate either from the mountain, or with the help of acceleration by one of the friends (they must push the car);
- After the car is more or less sufficiently dispersed, slowly release the clutch. The start of the power unit begins;
- After the engine starts, immediately shift into neutral and apply the brakes. The whole car is started, and you can drive, while the on-board network is powered by a generator.
Starting with a start-up charger (ROM)
Few ordinary motorists have ROMs, but they are almost always available at specialized service stations. First, let's find out what it is?
A ROM is a device with which you can both charge a discharged battery and start an engine whose battery is dead.
Starting with a ROM is quite simple:
- Connect the ROM to the network;
- We connect the ROM terminals to your battery.
At the same time, pay attention that the positive terminal is connected to the plus of the battery, and the negative terminal to the “minus”.
- We set the starting current to the ROM. Optimally, it should be in the range of 15-20 A;
- We start the car.
After the motor is started, the terminals can be removed.
Starting with booster or lithium-ion battery
The booster is another version of the ROM, its main difference is that it does not charge the battery, but is intended solely to help start the engine.
This device is very popular in areas where there are often very low temperatures in winter. In fact, this is an assistant when starting the engine. What he really is?
It is essentially a miniature battery that is pre-charged at home and then used when the driver comes to the parking lot to start his car. The main advantages of such devices are their small size and weight.
It is worth noting that the booster is a lithium-ion battery, exactly the same that is in your smartphone or laptop.
To start the car, you need to connect the booster in the same way as the ROM, and do the same operations that are performed when starting the power unit using the start-charger.
Fast charge start
This method is used in cases where you have a charger, but it is not designed to start the engine.
In this case, you need to put your battery on charge with maximum current. In chargers, it is usually not higher than 15 amperes.
Wait 15-20 minutes and try to start. If you fail to start, you need to repeat the procedure, but give your charger more time to charge. Ideally, one hour will be enough.
It is worth paying attention that with this method, your battery will not be fully charged and after the trip it should be put on a long charge with a low current of 5 Amperes.
Starting the car with the "Sling"
This is, let's say, an advanced version of starting the engine from a pusher. For him, you need another car and a towing cable.
It is used in cases where there are no wires for "lighting".
The launch is carried out using the "Sling" as follows:
- Drive your friend's car in front of your car;
- Hook your car to a fitted car with a tow rope;
- Get behind the wheel of your car, turn on the ignition, depress the clutch and turn on the second gear at the checkpoint;
- Signal the front car to move off;
- After you start towing, smoothly release the clutch and slowly add gas. Your car's engine starts to crank and start fairly quickly;
- After that, immediately squeeze the clutch and brake. The engine must continue to idle.
Actually, that's all, you can go. The main danger with this launch option is the ability to “catch up” with the towing vehicle and hit it in the back.
Starting a car with a crooked starter
This method is suitable for starting old rare cars produced before the beginning of the 90s of the last century.
In the kit of these machines, in addition to the jack and wheel wrench, there was a "Crooked starter", and the engines of the machines had a special groove on the flywheel coming from the crankshaft. In addition, in the bumpers of cars, there was a special hole for using a “crooked starter”.
Starting this way is very easy. You insert a "crooked starter" into the groove and crank your power unit's crankshaft by hand.
The main disadvantage of this method is the high energy consumption. However, if the engine and ignition are well adjusted, you will only need one or two turns to start.
Starting with alcohol
This method can be called extreme, it can be used if, apart from alcohol, other launch methods described above are not available to you.
This method is extreme due to the fact that it is one-time, after starting the car in this way, you will have to throw away the battery. That is, it is categorically not recommended to start new batteries in this way. But actually let's get to the essence of the method.
In order to revive your battery for a short time, you will need weak alcohol. For example, dry red wine. If your alcohol is stronger, then you need to dilute it with water to the same concentration of alcohol as in wine.
After the liquid with the desired concentration of alcohol is obtained, unscrew the cans on your battery and pour about 150 grams of an alcoholic solution or, simply, wine into it. After that, the car should start.
This is due to the fact that alcohol increases the acidity of the electrolyte, and this, in turn, leads to the removal of salts from the lead plates. All this should make it possible for the last time to start your car on this battery.
How to extend the life of the battery - 6 useful battery maintenance tips
The battery is a very important part of your car and quite expensive, so I think any driver is interested in making it last as long as possible.
This can be achieved with proper battery care and following simple rules.
- If you have a serviceable battery, then once a year carry out its maintenance, which consists in adding distilled water to the cans. It must be remembered that lead plates should never be dry. So, checking your battery can be done much more often.
- Keep clean, both the battery itself and the battery terminals. If oxides begin to collect on the terminals, then they must be removed from the battery and cleaned with sandpaper.
- When starting in winter, on cars equipped with mechanics, it is necessary to depress the clutch, so when starting, the starter turns only the engine without a gearbox. And this requires much less energy.
- Also, when starting in winter, it is recommended to warm up your battery. To do this, for a short time, before starting, turn the high beam on and off.
- Also, when operating a car in winter, especially in cases where the runs are short, find a way to recharge your battery using a charger, since it does not have time to charge at low runs.
- Make sure that the battery is securely fastened, as it does not tolerate vibrations well and may fail prematurely because of this.
By adhering to these simple rules, you will achieve maximum life for your battery.
Nobody canceled the law of meanness, therefore the battery often runs out at the most inopportune time: here you are stopped on the side of a busy highway, and you can’t move, the car won’t start. It's a shame, isn't it?
How to understand that the battery is dead?
- After turning the key in the ignition lock, the vigorous “grunt” of the engine is replaced by slow and viscous sounds;
- Indicators on the dashboard are dimly lit (or do not light up at all);
- From under the hood, crackles and clicks are heard.
How to start a car if the battery is dead?
Method 1 "Start-charger" . The easiest and most painless way to start the battery is a special device. It is connected to the network, the mode switch is put in the "start" position. The positive wire of the ROM is connected to the + terminal, the negative wire is connected to the engine block closer to the starter. Turn the key in the ignition, after the car has started, the starter-charger can be turned off.
This method is suitable for all types of cars (with automatic and manual transmission).
Method 2 "Give me a light!". To do this, you will need: a “donor” car - 1 piece, wires for lighting (a cross section of more than 16 sq. mm), a key for 10. The battery of the donor car must be in normal working condition, do not try to light a 12-volt unit from 24- volt, the voltage should be the same. An exception is the recharge of a 24-volt battery from two 12-volt batteries, which are connected in series. Cars are placed side by side, but they should not touch. The engine of the "donor" is turned off, the negative terminal must be removed from the second car. Observe the polarity, otherwise the electronics will simply fail. Basically, the negative wire is marked in black, and the positive wire is marked in red. The positive terminals must be connected to each other, then we connect the minus to the “donor” and only after that the minus to the reanimated machine. After that, you can start the "donor" for 4-5 minutes, so that the "dead" battery is recharged, then you can start the second car and let it work for 5-7 minutes. The terminals are disconnected, let the car run for 15-20 minutes, charging is faster when the engine is on.
Method 3 "Increased current" . The battery can also be recharged with increased current, the battery can not be removed from the car, but for transport with an on-board computer, you need to remove the negative terminal, otherwise the electronics will “fly”. The current can be increased by no more than 30% of the standard readings. For example, for a 60 Ah battery, a current of up to 8 amperes is allowed. The electrolyte level should be normal, the filler plugs should be opened. Charging lasts 20-30 minutes, then you can start the car. Often resorting to this method is not recommended - it shortens the "life" of the battery.
Method 4 "Towing or pushing" . For towing you will need: a cable, 4-6 meters long, a car for towing. The cars are connected to each other by a cable and accelerate to 10-15 km / h, the towed car needs to turn on 3rd gear and gradually release the clutch. If the car was able to start, you can unhook the "sweet couple". The main thing in this method is to coordinate the actions of the drivers, otherwise you can cause serious damage to the neighbor's transport. The method is only suitable for vehicles with manual transmission. You can use human resources instead of a towing car. Accelerate the car downhill or on a flat road. They push by the rear racks or trunks, otherwise you can get serious injuries (for example, slip and get under the wheels).
Method 5 "Lithium batteries" . Reviews about it are very mixed, for recharging you can use a laptop, phone, camera and other equipment with lithium batteries. It takes 10-20 minutes to recharge, you can connect it using a car cigarette lighter or directly to the battery. The devices are suitable for all types of vehicles.
Method 6 "Crooked starter" . Such a thing for cranking the crankshaft rescued many motorists. To do this, you need a jack, 5-6 meters of a dense rope or sling. Using a jack, you need to raise one of the drive wheels, 5-6 meters of rope are wound around it, the ignition and direct transmission are turned on. Pull the end of the foot with a sharp movement, you need to spin the wheel well.
We hope that our article will be useful to you, and in an emergency you will not be at a loss and use these tips!
Why is the battery draining
Any, even the highest quality battery is discharged by itself over time, and this happens for various reasons.
5 Reasons Why Your Battery Drains Quickly
- The battery has exhausted its resource (4-5 years);
- The alternator does not charge the battery during the trip;
- There is a current leakage in the on-board network;
- Forgot to turn off the headlights or radio for a long time;
- Exposure to critical temperatures (hard frost).
How to avoid frequent discharges and how to extend the life of a car battery - read on, we have collected all the useful tips on this topic in one handy list.
- Do not frequently run the engine for short runs.
- Do not leave the battery in a discharged state, let it be stored in a charged state.
- Do not let your car battery run down frequently.
- Do not allow the plates to be exposed, check and add electrolyte to the correct level.
- Check the alternator belt tension and replace the belt if it becomes too loose.
- Visually check the wiring in the network to quickly eliminate leakage currents.
- Watch the battery connection contacts - they can oxidize, wear out or be damaged.
- Make it a rule to check the car inside and out in any situation when you arrive at your destination. All electrical appliances and lighting must be turned off.
- In severe frosts, disconnect and transfer the battery to a warm room.
- In cold weather, charge the battery to the maximum more often so that the frost cannot drain the battery to the end.
- In winter, use special "warming" covers for the car battery.