The first council of auto mechanics- prevention. Care must be taken that the oil and other “liquid chemistry” of the car are non-freezing. Mineral or just old engine oil at minus 30 will certainly freeze. Therefore, it is better to change it, preferably to "synthetics", experts say.
In the washer reservoir, you also need to have an anti-freeze, moreover, high-quality and undiluted. Water, if suddenly someone has left, freezing, will break the parts of the washer. Most cars can't start after a freezing night because the battery loses power in the cold. He is not able to turn the starter at the right speed.
You can help him survive the night by warming up the car well “before going to bed” - it is best to drive for at least half an hour without turning off the engine and without using powerful electrical appliances - rear window and seat heating, servos, fancy music. There is, of course, an option to take the battery home, into the heat. But this is an option for a weightlifter. Everyone else should, before starting the car in the morning, “blink” the high beam several times - this will warm up the battery. The main thing is not to get carried away and not miss the moment when it's time to start, otherwise you can drain the battery.
Often the car will not start due to bad or dirty spark plugs. They need to be checked, cleaned of soot and, if necessary, changed. In case of frost, auto shops sell a large number of special fuel additives, for example, “quick start”, which are poured into the carburetor and fuel system for better engine starting.
It is impossible, and it is pointless, to turn the starter for more than 20 seconds.
If after three such attempts the machine did not come to life, you need to wait a few minutes, then repeat the series. When it was not possible to start the engine after ten attempts and it does not give any hope for this, it is worth leaving the car alone until it warms up or calling a specialist to find the cause of the equipment failure. But a malfunction may not exist - it's just that the temperature has dropped below the mark for which the systems servicing the engine are designed. Then the easiest way is to tow the car to a warm garage and try to revive it there.
There is another option to "revive" the car by "lighting up" from the battery of another car.
How to "light up" from another car
The patient is a car with a dead battery,
donor — a car with a live battery.
1. We turn off the donor engine.
2. Remove the terminals from the donor battery.
3. We connect one battery to another with thick wires, trying not to make a short circuit - the fireworks will be beautiful. Connect plus to plus, minus to minus. We make sure that the contact is good.
4. We smoke for 5-10 minutes (it is useful when the battery is completely discharged, during this time the current from a live battery will flow into a dead battery according to the law on communicating vessels. If the terminals are not removed from the donor battery, it is useful to start the donor engine.
4a. We turn off the donor engine, if it was started.
5. We start the patient. If the problem is in a dead battery, it will start without problems.
6. Tarahtim 5-10 minutes. We do not touch the wires!
7. We deafen the patient.
8. Remove the wires.
9. We start the patient.
10. Getting a donor.
11. We shake hands and go about our business.
If someone has wires with "pliers", then you can do without removing the wires from the healthy battery, but simply connect in parallel.
Important note. The algorithm helps in case of accidental killing of the battery by a forgotten light in the cabin or something else. If the car is faulty and the battery is dead after an hour of unsuccessful attempts to start the engine, you are on the right track to the engine repair service.
In the cold, it is better not to put the handbrake on the car, so that the pads do not freeze. Better to just put the car in gear. Diesel car owners are generally not recommended to use the car in such cold weather if it spends the night on the street or in an unheated garage. There is little chance of starting a diesel engine at minus 30, experts assure.
In order not to dig with frozen door locks, auto experts advise having special “defrosters” in your pocket, and it is better to pour them into “larvae” in advance. Sometimes it is possible to open the lock by heating the key with a lighter. It is not advised to pour boiling water over the castle - the water will cool down, freeze, and the next time it will be possible to open the car only in the spring.
For cars with a manual gearbox, you need to start the engine, be sure to squeeze the clutch: this will save the starter from having to turn the frozen oil in the gearbox (even in neutral, the gears in the box turn). After the car has started, it is better not to release the pedal for several minutes, then release it smoothly. After warming up the car, you can safely drive - it will not stall.
And you should not leave the car on the alarm unnecessarily: in the parking lot or in the garage, the alarm turned on for more than a week will completely discharge the battery. The experts also reminded that one cold start of the engine in severe frost is equal to 300-500 km of run in terms of the degree of damage caused to the car. And if the trip is not urgent, then it is better to use public transport.
One of the controversial issues is whether it is worth warming up the car if, for example, it is in perfect working order and can drive immediately after starting and not stall. Usually, factory instructions advise "at sub-zero temperatures, wait one or two minutes and move, not exceeding the average engine speed, until the engine is completely warmed up." But do manufacturers know what sub-zero temperatures their product got into? Therefore, it is really worth starting off only after the interior heater begins to produce air that is noticeably warm for the hands. And, of course, do not step on the gas, as the instructions advise.
Preparing your car for winter
The mild "European" winters of recent years have seriously spoiled motorists. Ten to fifteen years ago, car owners were divided into two categories at the beginning of October - "snowdrops" and those who dared to operate the car in winter. The first ones removed the batteries, drained the "water" and covered the car with a tarpaulin until spring. And the second ones were preparing for winter operation - they poured "winter" oil, installed high-capacity batteries, changed candles, filters, did anti-corrosion treatment ... Only the budget limited the length of this list.
Now, almost no one is preparing for winter - motorists consider everything except tires to be "all-weather". This approach is quite acceptable if the air temperature does not fall below -10 degrees Celsius. But now in Ukraine -20 -30, and thousands of seemingly serviceable cars refused to start...
In theory, almost any gasoline car can start at -30. To do this, it must have serviceable ignition and fuel supply systems, as well as lubricants, fuel and a battery that are suitable for climatic conditions.
That is, before winter, it is enough just to go through the next MOT - replace candles, oil and filters, check the battery and then refuel at proven gas stations.
operating fluids. As for gearbox oils, most of them are suitable for all-weather operation in central Russia, but with engine oil, everything is a little more complicated.
The lion's share of motorists buys oil, paying attention only to its brand and type ("synthetics-semi-synthetics"), but forgetting about viscosity indicators. The viscosity characteristics of motor oils are indicated by an alphanumeric index (for example, 5w40). The number in front of the letter w characterizes just the viscosity at low temperatures. Only 5w and 0w oils remain liquid at -30. The rest (15w, 20w) thicken so that it becomes very difficult to crank the engine with a starter.
Naturally, the cooling system must have high-quality antifreeze without water impurities. If it is flooded "anyhow", at best, a snow slurry is formed, at worst - ice, which is guaranteed to damage the engine.
Finally, you can not refuel at unverified gas stations. The fact is that winter and summer fuels differ markedly in composition. And only special grades of gasoline retain "volatility" in frost and are able to ignite. Accordingly, having refueled now with summer fuel, you run the risk of not starting until spring.
Ignition system.
Everything is also very simple here - you need to use candles and high-voltage wires designed for operation at low temperatures.
Electrical equipment.
Check the tension and tighten the alternator belt. If in summer a poorly tensioned belt can be easily heard by a characteristic squeak, in winter it can slip silently, undercharging the same battery. In winter, almost all consumers are turned on: a heater fan, a rear window heater, headlights and, in general, all external illumination. It is more difficult to turn the generator, and in the air there is a mixture of moisture, dust and salt, practically a lubricant. Here the belt slips silently, poisoning your life.
Due to the fact that the oil in the engine thickens noticeably, to start the engine, the starter needs much more energy. Accordingly, the battery must be serviceable and of high quality.
Car enthusiasts today were running around their cars with hot kettles, chargers, new batteries and cigarette lighter wires. But despite all the tricks, many cars remained motionless, apparently - with discharged batteries and "drenched" candles.
It is interesting that in addition to old cars that today did not start due to their numerous malfunctions, these lists included a huge number of new foreign cars.
The fact is that modern engines are made in accordance with strict Euro-4 environmental standards and operate on a lean mixture (less gasoline, more air). In a cold climate, such friendliness towards the environment can play a cruel joke - the car simply will not start.
Owners of new cars who refused to start have only one way out - to get to an official dealer by tow truck, where they may change the program to a less environmentally friendly one, or they will offer to install a preheater.
Experienced people also recommend pouring 100-150 grams of gasoline directly into the oil in severe frosts at night. Start the engine for 2 - 3 minutes. Gasoline will mix with oil and dilute it. In the morning, the starter will feel better, and the gasoline will evaporate in 5 to 10 minutes, without causing any harm to either the oil or the engine. Troublesome, of course. But when the battery replacement time comes up, you will choose for yourself not 55, but, say, 60 ampere / hours.
Car storage. Instructions for using the machine and recommendations from manufacturers do not always help you understand what to do in a particular case: only you yourself have to deal with the real causes, conditions and periods of downtime. Your car can “be laid up” for just a month or a few months, until you write a diploma, go to your relatives in another city or on a business trip, or for a year or two due to more serious changes in life circumstances. How often you need to start your car and what you need to do after storage may also depend on the initial steps you took when you "put your baby to bed."
"Nap"
A car that will be left without maintenance for several months may require minimal preparation from you. Gasoline stabilizer in the tank - and this will save you from searching for a gas station after idle time, from cleaning the fuel system or recalibrating. Some average value of the battery charge - and the car will last a month in full readiness mode. Starting/warming up the car under these conditions is a breeze, and an interval of 2-3 weeks can be optimal to prevent any spoilage. The machine should be running long enough to reach operating temperature and the engine should "run" at low rpm before shutting down. The rise in temperature will help to get rid of condensate in the fuel system and crankcase, and low speeds will expel moisture from the exhaust elements.
Wintering
For half a year or more, consider emptying the tank and removing the battery. The battery can be charged and put back as needed. However, the acidity level must be adequate, or top up with distilled water before charging. Fresh fuel, possibly with a fuel system cleaner added to it, can keep your car running smoothly after a few attempts to start. But should be tested on the go for a few hours before using it on any planned trips. Brake fluid and its level should also be carefully checked before driving the car for any distance. A professional inspection and oil change are strongly advised here if you haven’t done any preparations before putting the car “on a joke”.
"Deep dream"
Long-term storage, when you have no idea when the car will be able to get into the workshop again, may require you to pull it out of the engine, and it is worth applying oil to the tops of the cylinders. The fuel system, including the tank itself, can sit empty for a really long period of time. To provide enough power to start the engine, you may need a new battery - but this is after the spark plugs have been replaced and the fuel line has been checked for leaks. Flushing and refilling the cooling system is best done with the engine running, but should be done as soon as reliable engine operation is restored. Transmission oil and brake fluid may need to be drained and refilled when you wake up your sleeping horse.
Coma
Cars, like people, fall into disrepair when left alone for too long. Condensate can settle on crankcases and gearboxes, changing the chemical structure of the "sitting" lubricant. Synthetic oils can prevent serious damage on the parts immersed in them, but without circulation they will not be able to provide you with protection for higher and dry surfaces. Rubber parts can warp and loosen over time due to drying. Suspensions and tires may settle and warp if left unused. Running the engine occasionally can prevent some problems, but the car needs to be driven regularly - at least twice a month - so that these parts don't dry out and crumble like stale toast.
Just as a person enters icy water gradually, so a car that has frozen over a winter night must be given a little time to gather its courage. The machine will take over part of the pre-launch procedures. For example, it is common practice when the fuel pump automatically raises the pressure in the system when the door is opened. But the main thing depends on the driver. After turning on the ignition, pause for a couple of seconds before starting the starter. This is enough for the on-board electronics to complete self-diagnosis, the fuel rail to prepare to supply the injectors with a sufficient amount of fuel, and the parameters of the electrical network and the ignition system to stabilize. Diesel vehicle owners should pay attention to the orange indicator lamp with a spiral symbol. Usually this is the indicator of glow plugs in the instrument cluster. It's off - turn it on. A little easier in this regard with machines that start "with a button." I pressed it, and then the electronics itself organizes the process.
An error occurred during the download.This is the best way to start when it's cold. Once - turn on the ignition. Two - we wait until the control lamps go out and the arrows come to life. Three - start the starter
Rule number 2. Save electricity
The starter is a very "gluttonous" consumer of the on-board electrical network. On multi-cylinder machines, its power is comparable to the output of a moped engine. Therefore, during a cold start, when it is especially difficult to crank the crankshaft of a frozen engine, the energy from the battery evaporates faster than water from the stones in the sauna. In winter, the battery is usually not fully charged, which means that energy must be saved. So we follow the recommendations of most instructions for modern cars and turn on the starter for 10-15 seconds, no more. And if the motor does not come to life, between attempts to start we pause at least half a minute, allowing the battery to recover before a new “approach to the projectile”. Tried 3-4 times, but no result? Most likely, the car is faulty - look for the cause yourself or call a tow truck to the service.
Rule #3
On cars with mechanics, first disengage the clutch by pressing the pedal to the floor, and then start the engine. This will make it easier for the starter, since you will not have to scroll through the frozen gear lubricant. Take your time to release the pedal, let the engine go to a stable idle, and engage the clutch smoothly. If you release the pedal too sharply, then even in neutral gear, a load surge can turn off a hard-to-start engine.
Rule #4
The engine control unit is a smart thing. He himself knows how much fuel and air to supply to the cylinders for a confident start of a cold unit. Therefore, you should not help the computer brain by playing with gas, like on grandfather's carbureted Zhiguli and Volga. You will only make it worse: the composition of the working mixture will be disturbed, it will be even more difficult for the engine to come to life. And if you bend the stick and press the pedal all the way, you may not start at all, because this is how the cylinder purge mode is usually activated - the fuel supply will stop.
Rule number 5
Starting a modern car in the old fashioned way, in tow, is prohibited - you risk burning the catalytic converter or damaging the automatic transmission. Therefore, if you are sure that the reason is only in an empty battery, a reasonable way out is to try to “light it up” from another car. Only this must also be done correctly, since delicate electronics are sensitive to power surges. So, if your battery is completely frozen (the case is noticeably swollen), you cannot start the engine from an external source, the battery may explode. It is better to choose a donor of a similar capacity with a dead battery and always the same voltage (standard - 12 Volts). Then we connect the positive terminals with wires, and connect the minus of a working battery to the “mass” (any iron body part) of the frozen car. It is advisable not to connect the negative poles directly, because a short circuit and other troubles could happen inside the problematic battery. Then the donor will also suffer, both machines will be de-energized.
Rule #6
In winter, non-native car electronics often throw up problems. First of all - additional anti-theft and alarm systems, which are usually assembled on the basis of cheap Chinese components and, moreover, are installed carelessly. Somewhere the contact from moisture disappeared, there the relay got stuck from the cold, the sensor “dry out” and that’s it - the engine cannot be started. It is difficult to catch such a floating defect in place. Therefore, there is only one recommendation - to monitor the condition of the machine. And if there is the slightest suspicion of the incorrect operation of the components, drive it to the diagnostics even before the onset of cold weather.
P.S. Well, if there are any problems with the car, then it is best to contact a car service. Thanks to Auto Mail.Ru, signing up for repairs has become easier. The application is submitted in three clicks: you need to specify the brand of car, city, select a technical center and briefly describe the problem. Our partners are specialized car services. And they are all active! Therefore, your request will not remain unanswered.
- The car is not mechanically prepared for winter. This is the most common cause, because most people only fix the problem after it has made itself felt. It is not right! You need to clearly understand the weaknesses of the car in winter and try to make these risks become insignificant. Common problems include incorrectly set ignition, unset setting of the generator mixture (carburetor, injector, injectors), untimely replacement of consumables (fuel and air filters). It should be clearly understood that if there is even a slight difficulty with launching in the summer, in winter it will definitely come back to haunt.
- Weak battery. To a greater extent, this applies to old batteries that are more than 2 years old. Although with improper use, there is also a faster "aging" of the battery. To understand the condition of the battery, you should contact a specialist. He will measure the condition with a special device and tell you how many working plates are in the battery and how much a full charge is enough. It will also measure whether the charge is being fully charged to the battery from the generator. It may be necessary to fill in electrolyte or distilled water for resuscitation.
You do not need to make a decision on adding electrolyte or water to the battery yourself, especially if you are a layman. Often, motorists with their repairs make the condition of the battery even worse;
- Wrong choice of oil. In winter, it is worth pouring oil marked 0W or 5W, this is a special oil for low temperatures. Withstands up to -30 degrees. Also, long-term use and untimely oil change can cause it to thicken at low temperatures.
- Poor quality fuel. The reason for a difficult start is often low-quality fuel. With gasoline, this is less noticeable, but with gas and diesel fuel, it is more. For a diesel car, you need to buy a winter diesel or add anti-gels to it (read about what it is).
How to start a car in cold weather: the main ways
- Proper car start technique (read about). With the clutch depressed (on the mechanics), we turn the starter for 3-4 seconds, this will make it possible to pump the right amount of fuel. Then you should turn on the dipped headlights for a short while, literally for 5-7 seconds. This will allow the battery to revive. Then again squeeze the clutch and try to start. It is not recommended to turn the starter for more than 6 seconds. It is much more effective to scroll for 3-4 seconds at intervals of 10-15 seconds. This makes it possible not to land the battery quickly. It should be started with electrical appliances, stove, heated seats, music turned off. When the car starts, do not immediately drop the clutch. It is advisable to hold it squeezed out for 4-5 seconds and slowly release it. The clutch is depressed to facilitate the work of the starter. After all, it only turns the engine without the gearbox. Also, do not immediately go, let the car warm up for 5-7 minutes.
- "Smoking" from another battery. This method requires the presence of wires for lighting and the presence of a donor car. The technique is quite simple: the donor car drives up close to the car being lit, the wires are connected (plus to plus, minus to minus), the donor car runs at high speeds for 10-15 minutes, then it should be turned off. After this procedure, you can try to start the car. If the first time did not work, the procedure must be repeated.
- Keeping the battery warm. To reduce battery drain in the cold, you can remove it and leave it in a warm room. For example, in the North, motorists remove batteries for the night or for a while while they are not driving. Also, if it is possible to leave the car in the garage, it is better to do so. The temperature even in an unheated room will be higher than the street temperature. If it is problematic to remove the battery and there is no garage, you should sometimes go out and warm up the car for 5-10 minutes.
- Use of quick start sprays. Before a cold start, the spray is sprayed into the carburetor, thereby enriching the mixture with flammable alcohols. In some cases, the spray helps well, but if the battery is dead, then it will not be able to help.
- Heating the mixture. Boiling water is usually used for heating. Fuel systems should be watered. For gasoline cars, this is irrelevant. For diesel engines, the fuel filter and injectors are poured. If you are trying to start a car on gas, you should water the gearbox well.
- Portable small battery. The "Quick Start" charger is a pretty handy accessory. It has a small size, enough capacity just to start the car. It is inserted directly into the cigarette lighter, no need to climb to the terminals in the hood. You can also charge it from the cigarette lighter when the car is running.
- Start from a pusher. This method is suitable for cars with a manual transmission.
For vehicles with automatic transmission, some of the methods are irrelevant. If you are sure that the battery is charged, the starter is working and turning, then the problem is condensation freezing in the fuel paths or filter. To solve this difficulty, you need to tow the car to a warm room, and the problem will be eliminated by the mother herself.
The same goes for freezing electronics. It happens that the on-board computer behaves incomprehensibly, gives a large number of errors. This may be due to freezing as well.
Another common question that worries drivers is that. You will find the answer in our article.
Features of starting a diesel engine in cold weather
In order for a diesel car to start well in winter, you should fill in winter diesel fuel or add anti-gels to it. How to start a car in the cold, if, nevertheless, diesel fuel has thickened? Pour boiling water over the fuel filter and injectors.
When the car starts, the system will warm up the diesel in the fuel tank. Also, when starting, you must first turn the ignition key and wait 7-10 seconds for the glow plugs to warm up. And then start the car. Glow plugs are used specifically to warm up the fuel during start-up.
One of the possible difficulties may be a malfunction of the injectors. This is usually checked on a specialized stand. Modern cars are also equipped with tank and fuel system heating. After starting the car, do not turn on the stove. It is advisable to wait until the engine warms up, and then warm up yourself.
Winter time with its low temperatures gives us trouble, especially when starting a cold car in the morning. Starting a car in winter can be several times easier if you follow a number of certain rules.Before starting the car in winter, you need to clear the body of snow and “bring to life” the battery. To do this, turn on the ignition and the low beam for two to three minutes (instead of the low beam, you can turn on the high beam for 15-20 seconds). Thus, we will increase the capacity of the battery by heating the electrolyte in it. Naturally, we are talking about a fully functional battery, which is recommended to be changed once every two to three years, depending on weather conditions.
After that, we try to start the car in winter. So that excess energy does not go to scrolling the parts of the gearbox block, we first depress the clutch pedal. In the case of a carburetor power unit, there is no universal advice: extending the “choke” can help, or vice versa, closing it and operating the gas pedal. But on the injector, it is better not to touch the accelerator pedal at all.If the first attempt to start the car in winter failed, that is, after two to five turns of the starter, the power unit did not start, then you need to pause and try again after a couple of minutes. Continuous loading will only make starting the engine worse and may shorten the life of the starter motor or drain the battery.
After a successful start of the engine, it is not recommended to immediately throw the clutch pedal, you need to hold it for about two to three minutes, and then slowly release it. If, when the clutch pedal is released, the engine starts to stall, then you need to extend the pause by holding your foot on the pedal. The injector warms up in an average of two to four minutes, and the carburetor engine in ten to fifteen.
There are a few more tips that will help you start your car faster and with less effort in winter. First of all, do not leave the vehicle on the handbrake overnight, do not turn on the car radio immediately after starting the engine, and for the first 400-600 meters after warming up, avoid sudden acceleration, speeds above forty kilometers per hour.
There is an alternative option to start the car in the winter. This is the so-called "smoking". In this case, two wires are needed, with the help of which the battery terminals of the machine being started and the one already warmed up are connected. You can also have a spare working battery that is kept warm and "light up" on it.
To win, however, such a “whim” of the car is possible. If you have a carbureted engine, with both carburetor and ignition set up, then closing the throttle (pulling out the "choke") will lead to the desired start with almost no problems. Otherwise, it is worth listening to a few tips.
How to start a car in cold weather
Tip 1. Even before the onset of cold weather, set the ignition. It would be useful to install a contact ignition on carburetor machines, and if the engine is injection, then it is worth “filling in” the most recent firmware of the ECU (electronic control unit).
Change candles, filters, even if they have not yet left their resource. Fill the engine, axle (if the car is front- or all-wheel drive), transmission with lower viscosity oil. For example, it is worth pouring oil into the engine, at least 10-W40.
It is also worth pushing through the larvae of the door and trunk locks with a special lubricant, for example WD-40, and process high-voltage wires with it.
Tip 2. A high capacity battery should be installed. For example, for a VAZ 2107, you should choose not a regular 55 Ah battery, but at least 60 Ah. It is better to keep the battery warm, installing it on the car only for a trip. But in order not to drag him around, before turning the key, turn on the high beam for 5 seconds. This will heat up the electrolyte and the battery will give out almost its entire rated capacity (unless, of course, it is charged).
Tip 3. Depress the clutch before starting a cold engine, even if the car is not in gear. This will remove the extra load from the crankshaft of the machine when the engine is started by the starter, since the oil in the box also thickens, and the starter also has to turn the input shaft.
Only with the engine warming up to at least 20 degrees is it worth releasing (smoothly) the clutch pedal, while controlling the movement of the car. If the car jerks, push the clutch back in.
Tip 4. Do not turn the starter too long in winter. Five to ten seconds maximum with fifteen second intervals between launch attempts. Excessively long rotation of the starter can either flood the spark plugs or drain the battery quickly.
Before the first attempt to start the car in cold weather, pump up gasoline with the gas pedal or a hand pump, if it is structurally provided. Also, before the first start of a cold engine, turn the starter a little - this will lubricate the engine parts after a long stop in the cold.
If all the above manipulations did not work and the car did not start, and the battery was completely dead, you can proceed to emergency measures: “lighting up” or “tie”.
How to light up a car
If attempts to start the car in winter on your own were not successful, then ask someone to “light up” the car, for which you will have to connect the wires from someone else’s, workable, battery to your wires, which should always be in your car, since the door or trunk lid may freeze and not open.
Connect the wires before you ask to light the battery so as not to delay the other driver. Do not spin your starter with someone else's battery for a long time. If there is no start, then go to the next step.
Measure two: “tie”
Ask a more fortunate driver to pull your car with a cable. The cable, like the “lighting” wires, should always be with you (both in winter and in summer). In order to start a cold engine in this way, you should set the second gear, squeeze the clutch, turn on the ignition and give a ready signal (horn, headlights, turn signal).
When accelerating, abruptly release the clutch pedal. As soon as the car starts, give a prearranged signal that you are wound up, but don’t let the car stall with all your might: keep the gas pedal at an increased speed, and set the transmission to neutral. Never use this method if you have an automatic transmission.
Be sure to bring a set of warm clothes, gloves, mittens (felt boots if the trunk is spacious), a blanket, lighter wires, a spare set of candles, an essential mixture of “quick start” or similar, as well as a set of keys, a screwdriver and pliers.