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Historical culinary excursion: what they ate and drank in the Middle Ages. Nutrition of Europeans in modern times Nutrition of Europeans from the 16th to the 18th centuries

General rule. The dishes served on the tables of gentlemen: aristocrats, landowners, people in power, both spiritual and secular, differed very significantly from what ordinary people who worked on their lands and depended on them ate.

However, when in the 13th century, the boundaries between classes began to blur, the powers that be became concerned about how to retain workers, and decided to play on the love of the “hearth”, allowing the peasants to feast on food from their table.

Bread

In the Middle Ages, white bread, which is made from finely ground wheat flour, was intended exclusively for the tables of lords and princes. The peasants ate black, primarily rye bread.

In the Middle Ages, this often fatal disease grew to epidemic proportions, especially in lean and famine years. After all, it was then that everything that more or less fell under the definition of cereal was collected from the fields, often ahead of schedule, that is, just at the very time when ergot is most poisonous. Ergot poisoning affected the nervous system and was fatal in most cases.

It was not until the early Baroque era that a Dutch physician discovered the relationship between ergot and St. Anthony's fire. Chlorine was used as a means to prevent the spread of the disease, although despite it, or even because of it, the epidemic raged even more.

But the use of chlorine was not widespread and was rather determined by the type of bread: some cunning bakers bleached their rye and oat bread with chlorine, and then sold it at a profit, passing it off as white (chalk and crushed bone were readily used for the same purposes).

And since, in addition to these very unhealthy bleaching agents, dried flies were often baked into bread as “raisins,” the extremely cruel punishments meted out to fraudulent bakers appear in a new light.

Those who wanted to make easy money from bread often had to break the law. And almost everywhere this was punishable by significant financial fines.

In Switzerland, fraudulent bakers were hanged in a cage over a dung pit. Accordingly, those who wanted to get out of it had to jump straight into the fetid mess.

To stop bullying, to prevent the disrepute of their profession from spreading, and also to control themselves, bakers united in the first industrial association - the guild. Thanks to her, that is, thanks to the fact that representatives of this profession cared about their membership in the guild, real masters of baking appeared.

Pasta

There are many legends about cuisine and recipes. The most beautiful of them was described Marco Polo, who in 1295 brought from his trip to Asia a recipe for making dumplings and “threads” from dough.

It is believed that this story was heard by a Venetian cook who began tirelessly mixing water, flour, eggs, sunflower oil and salt until he achieved the best consistency for the noodle dough. It is not known whether this is true or whether noodles came to Europe from Arab countries thanks to the crusaders and merchants. But it is a fact that European cuisine soon became unthinkable without noodles.

However, in the 15th century there were still bans on the preparation of pasta, since in the event of a particularly unsuccessful harvest, flour was necessary for baking bread. But since the Renaissance, the triumphant march of pasta across Europe could no longer be stopped.

Porridge and thick soup

Until the era of the Roman Empire, porridge was present in the diet of all levels of society, and only then turned into food for the poor. However, it was very popular among them; they ate it three or even four times a day, and in some houses they ate it exclusively. This state of affairs continued until the 18th century, when potatoes replaced porridge.

It should be noted that the porridge of that time differs significantly from our current ideas about this product: medieval porridge cannot be called “porridge-like”, in the meaning that we give to this word today. It was... hard, and so hard that it could be cut.

One Irish law of the 8th century clearly stated which segments of the population were supposed to eat what kind of porridge: “For the lower class, oatmeal cooked with buttermilk and old butter for it are quite enough; representatives of the middle class are supposed to eat porridge made from pearl barley and fresh milk, and put fresh butter in it; and royal offspring should be served porridge sweetened with honey, made from wheat flour and fresh milk.”

Along with porridge, since ancient times, humanity has known a “one-dish lunch”: a thick soup that replaces the first and second. It is found in the cuisines of a wide variety of cultures (the Arabs and Chinese use a double pot to prepare it - meat and various vegetables are boiled in the lower compartment, and the steam rises from it for rice) and just like porridge, it was food for the poor until No expensive ingredients were used to prepare it.

There is also a practical explanation for the special love for this dish: in medieval kitchens (both princely and peasant), food was prepared in a cauldron suspended on rotating mechanisms over an open fire (later in a fireplace). And what could be simpler than throwing all the ingredients that you can get into such a cauldron and preparing a rich soup from them. At the same time, the taste of the brew is very easy to change by simply changing the ingredients.

Meat, lard, butter

Having read books about the life of aristocrats, and being impressed by the colorful descriptions of feasts, modern man firmly believed that representatives of this class ate exclusively game. In fact, game made up no more than five percent of their diet.

Pheasants, swans, wild ducks, wood grouse, deer... It sounds magical. But in fact, chickens, geese, sheep and goats were usually served at the table. Roast occupied a special place in medieval cuisine.

When we talk or read about meat cooked on a spit or grill, we forget about the more than insignificant development of dentistry at that time. How can you chew tough meat with a toothless jaw?

Ingenuity came to the rescue: the meat was kneaded in a mortar to a mushy state, thickened by adding eggs and flour, and the resulting mass was fried on a spit in the shape of an ox or sheep.

The same thing was sometimes done with fish; the peculiarity of this variation of the dish was that the “porridge” was pushed into the skin skillfully pulled off the fish, and then boiled or fried.

It seems strange to us now that fried meat in the Middle Ages was often also cooked in broth, and cooked chicken, rolled in flour, was added to the soup. With such double processing, the meat lost not only its crispiness, but also its taste.

As for the fat content of food and ways to make it so, the aristocrats used sunflower, and later butter, oils for these purposes, and the peasants were content with lard.

Canning

Drying, smoking and salting as methods of preserving food were already known in the Middle Ages.

They dried fruits: pears, apples, cherries, and also came with vegetables. Air-dried or oven-dried, they were preserved for a long time and were often used in cooking: they were especially popular added to wine. Fruits were also used to make compote (fruit, ginger). However, the resulting liquid was not consumed immediately, but was thickened and then cut: the result was something like candy.

They smoked meat, fish and sausage. This was due to the seasonality of livestock slaughter, which took place in October-November, since, firstly, at the beginning of November it was necessary to pay a tax in kind, and secondly, this made it possible not to spend money on animal feed in the winter.

Sea fish imported for consumption during Lent was preferred to be salted. Many types of vegetables, such as beans and peas, were also salted. As for cabbage, it was fermented.

Seasonings

Seasonings were an integral attribute of medieval cuisine. Moreover, there is no point in distinguishing between seasonings for the poor and seasonings for the rich, because only the rich could afford to have spices.

The easiest and cheapest option was to buy pepper. The import of pepper made a lot of people rich, but also brought many people to the gallows, namely those who cheated and mixed dried berries into the pepper. Along with pepper, the favorite seasonings in the Middle Ages were cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and nutmeg.

Saffron deserves special mention: it was even several times more expensive than the very expensive nutmeg (in the 20s of the 15th century, when nutmeg was sold for 48 kreuzers, saffron cost about one hundred and eighty, which corresponded to the price of a horse).

Most cookbooks of that period do not indicate the proportions of spices, but, based on books from a later period, we can conclude that these proportions did not correspond to our tastes today, and dishes seasoned as it was done in the Middle Ages might seem very different to us. sharp and even burn the palate.

Spices were not only used to demonstrate richness, they also covered the smell emitted by meat and other foods. In the Middle Ages, meat and fish stocks were often salted so that they would not spoil for as long as possible and would not cause illness. And, therefore, spices were designed to drown out not only odors, but also taste - the taste of salt. Or sour.

Spices, honey and rose water were used to sweeten sour wine so that it could be served to the gentlemen. Some modern authors, citing the length of the journey from Asia to Europe, believe that during transportation, spices lost their taste and smell and essential oils were added to them to return them.

Greenery

Herbs were valued for their healing power; treatment without herbs was unthinkable. But they also occupied a special place in cooking. Southern herbs, namely marjoram, basil and thyme, familiar to modern people, were not found in the northern countries in the Middle Ages. But such herbs were used that we don’t even remember today.

But we, as before, know and appreciate the magical properties of parsley, mint, dill, caraway, sage, lovage, fennel; nettle and calendula are still fighting for space in the sun and in the pan.

Almond milk and marzipan

Almonds were a must in every medieval kitchen of the powerful. They especially liked to make almond milk from it (crushed almonds, wine, water), which was then used as a base for preparing various dishes and sauces, and during Lent they replaced real milk.

Marzipan, also made from almonds (grated almonds with sugar syrup), was a luxury item in the Middle Ages. This dish is considered a Greco-Roman invention.

Researchers conclude that the small almond cakes that the Romans sacrificed to their gods were the forerunners of sweet almond dough (pane Martius (spring bread) - Marzipan).

Honey and sugar

In the Middle Ages, food was sweetened exclusively with honey. Although cane sugar was known in Southern Italy already in the 8th century, the rest of Europe learned the secret of its production only during the Crusades. But even then, sugar continued to remain a luxury: at the beginning of the 15th century, six kilograms of sugar cost as much as a horse.

It was only in 1747 that Andreas Sigismund Markgraf discovered the secret of producing sugar from sugar beets, but this did not particularly affect the situation. Industrial and, accordingly, mass production of sugar began only in the 19th century, and only then did sugar become a product “for everyone.”

These facts allow us to look at medieval feasts with new eyes: only those who possessed excessive wealth could afford to organize them, because most of the dishes consisted of sugar, and many dishes were intended only to be admired and admired, but not were eaten.

Feasts

We read with amazement about the carcasses of hazel dormouse, storks, eagles, bears and beaver tails that were served at the table in those days. We think about how tough the meat of storks and beavers must taste, about how rare animals like the dormouse and the hazel dormouse are.

At the same time, we forget that numerous changes of dishes were intended, first of all, not to satisfy hunger, but to demonstrate wealth. Who could be indifferent to the sight of such a dish as a peacock “spouting” flame?

And the fried bear paws were displayed on the table definitely not to glorify the hunting abilities of the owner of the house, who belongs to the highest circles of society and is unlikely to earn his living by hunting.

Along with amazing hot dishes, feasts included sweet baked works of art; dishes made of sugar, gypsum, salt as tall as a man and even more. All this was intended mainly for visual perception.

Especially for these purposes, holidays were organized, at which the prince and princess publicly tasted meat, poultry, cakes, and pastries on a raised platform.

Colorful food

Multi-colored dishes were extremely popular in the Middle Ages and at the same time easy to prepare.

Coats of arms, family colors and even entire paintings were depicted on pies and cakes; many sweet foods, such as almond milk jelly, were given a variety of colors (in medieval cookbooks you can find a recipe for making such a three-colored jelly). Meat, fish, and chicken were also painted.

The most common coloring agents are: parsley or spinach (green); grated black bread or gingerbread, clove powder, black cherry juice (black), vegetable or berry juice, beets (red); saffron or egg yolk with flour (yellow); onion peel (brown).

They also liked to gild and silver dishes, but, of course, this could only be done by the cooks of gentlemen who were able to provide the appropriate means at their disposal. And although the addition of coloring substances changed the taste of the dish, they turned a blind eye to this for the sake of getting a beautiful “picture”.

However, with colored food, sometimes funny and not so funny things happened. Thus, at one holiday in Florence, guests were almost poisoned by the colorful creation of an inventor-cook who used chlorine to obtain white color and verdigris to obtain green.

Fast

Medieval cooks also showed their resourcefulness and skill during Lent: when preparing fish dishes, they seasoned them in a special way so that they tasted like

meat, invented pseudo-eggs and tried in every way to circumvent the strict rules of fasting.

The clergy and their cooks especially tried. So, for example, they expanded the concept of “aquatic animals”, including the beaver (its tail was classified as “fish scales”). After all, the fasts then lasted a third of the year.

Four meals a day

The day began with the first breakfast, limited to a glass of wine. At approximately 9 o'clock in the morning it was time for a second breakfast, which consisted of several courses.

It should be clarified that this is not the modern “first, second and compote”. Each course consisted of a large number of dishes, which the servants served to the table. This led to the fact that anyone who organized a banquet - whether on the occasion of christenings, weddings or funerals - tried not to lose face and serve as many goodies as possible to the table, not paying attention to their capabilities, and therefore often getting into debt.

To put an end to this state of affairs, numerous regulations were introduced that regulated the number of dishes and even the number of guests. For example, in 1279, the French king Philip III issued a decree stating that “not a single duke, count, baron, prelate, knight, cleric, etc. has no right to eat more than three modest courses (cheeses and vegetables, unlike cakes and pastries, were not taken into account).” The modern tradition of serving one dish at a time came to Europe from Russia only in the 18th century.

At lunch, they were again allowed to drink only a glass of wine, eating it with a piece of bread soaked in wine. And only for dinner, which took place from 3 to 6 pm, an incredible amount of food was again served. Naturally, this is a “schedule” for the upper classes of society.

The peasants were busy with business and could not devote as much time to eating as the aristocrats (often they only managed to have one modest snack during the day), and their income did not allow them to do this.

Cutlery and crockery

Two cutlery items had a hard time gaining recognition in the Middle Ages: the fork and the personal use plate. Yes, there were wooden plates for the lower classes and silver or even gold ones for the higher ones, but they ate mainly from common dishes. Moreover, instead of a plate, stale bread was sometimes used for these purposes, which slowly absorbed and prevented the table from getting dirty.

The fork also “suffered” from prejudices that existed in society: its shape earned it a reputation as a diabolical creation, and its Byzantine origin earned it a suspicious attitude. Therefore, she was able to “make her way” to the table only as a device for meat. It was only in the Baroque era that debates about the merits and demerits of the fork became fierce. On the contrary, everyone had their own knife, even women wore it on their belt.

On the tables one could also see spoons, salt shakers, rock crystal glasses and drinking vessels - often richly decorated, gilded or even silver. However, the latter were not individual; even in rich houses they were shared with neighbors. Common people's dishes and cutlery were made of wood and clay.

Many peasants had only one spoon in their house for the whole family, and if someone did not want to wait for it to reach him in a circle, he could use a piece of bread instead of this cutlery.

Table manners


Chicken legs and meatballs were thrown in all directions, dirty hands were wiped on shirts and trousers, food was torn into pieces and then swallowed without chewing. ...So, or approximately so, we, having read the records of cunning innkeepers or their adventurer visitors, imagine today the behavior of knights at the table.

In reality, everything was not so extravagant, although there were some curious moments that amazed us. Many satires, table manners, and descriptions of food customs reflect that morality did not always take a place at the table with its owner.

For example, the prohibition on blowing your nose into a tablecloth would not be encountered so often if this bad habit were not very common.

How they cleared the table

There were no tables in their modern form (that is, when the tabletop is attached to the legs) in the Middle Ages. The table was built when there was a need for it: wooden stands were installed, and a wooden board was placed on them. That’s why in the Middle Ages they didn’t clear the table, they cleared the table...

Cook: honor and respect

Powerful medieval Europe highly valued its chefs. In Germany, since 1291, the chef was one of the four most important figures at court. In France, only noble people became high-ranking chefs.

The position of chief winemaker of France was the third most important after the positions of chamberlain and chief equerry. Then came the bread baking manager, the chief cupbearer, the chef, the restaurant managers closest to the court, and only then the marshals and admirals.

As for the kitchen hierarchy - and there was a huge number (up to 800 people) of interdependent workers - the first place was given to the head of meat. A position characterized by honor and trust of the king, for no one was safe from poison. He had six people at his disposal who selected and prepared meat for the royal family every day.

Teilevant, the famous chef of King Charles the Sixth, had 150 people under his command.

And in England, for example, at the court of Richard the Second there were 1,000 cooks and 300 footmen who served 10,000 people at the court every day. A dizzying figure, demonstrating that it was important not so much to feed as to demonstrate wealth.

Cookbooks of the Middle Ages

In the Middle Ages, along with spiritual literature, it was cookbooks that were most often and willingly copied. Around 1345 to 1352, the earliest cookbook of this time was written, Buoch von guoter spise (Book of Good Food). The author is considered to be the notary of the Bishop of Würzburg, Michael de Leon, who, along with his duties of noting budget expenditures, was collecting recipes.

Fifty years later, the Alemannische Buchlein von guter Speise (The Alemannic Book of Good Food) appears, by master Hansen, the Württemberg cook. This was the first cookbook in the Middle Ages to bear the author's name. A collection of recipes by Master Eberhard, cook of Duke Heinrich III von Bayern-Landshut, appeared around 1495.

Pages from the cookbook "Forme of Cury". It was created by King Richard II's chef in 1390 and contains 205 recipes used at court. The book is written in medieval English, and some of the recipes described in this book have long been forgotten by society. For example, “blank mang” (a sweet dish made from meat, milk, sugar and almonds).

Around 1350, the French cookbook Le Grand Cuisinier de toute Cuisine was created, and in 1381 the English Ancient Cookery. 1390 - “The Forme of Cury”, by the cook of King Richard II. As for Danish collections of recipes from the 13th century, it is worth mentioning Henrik Harpenstreng's Libellus de Arte Coquinaria. 1354 - Catalan "Libre de Sent Sovi" by an unknown author.

The most famous cookbook of the Middle Ages was created by the master Guillaume Tyrell, better known under his creative pseudonym Teylivent. He was the cook of King Charles the Sixth, and later even received the title. The book was written between 1373 and 1392, and published only a century later and included, along with famous dishes, very original recipes that today a rare gourmet would dare to cook.

Massimo Montanari. "Hunger and abundance.
History of food in Europe"

The book by the Italian historian was published in Italy in 1993 (we published it in 2009). Despite the small volume (only 210 pages), the work turned out to be very entertaining and informative. Many historical works devoted to the biography of Europe are one-sided: the authors pay the main attention to wars, religious issues and dynastic strife, forgetting about other aspects of the life of human populations. Montanari's book fills one of these gaps in European history related to nutrition.

Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are - this is how Montanari begins his culinary-historical review. How was Roman civilization different from the barbarians? A lot, including food. Rome is a vegetarian culture. The main products consumed by a Roman citizen were wheat bread, olive oil and wine. The Romans ate meat, vegetables, and fish, but all these were secondary products. But without the first three, it is simply impossible to imagine Roman civilization. What was the main product of the German barbarians? - Pork! And the Germans drank mare's milk and beer (without hops).

In Rome, moderation in food was valued; among the Germans, the ability to eat as much meat as possible was valued. And what’s curious is that not only the Germans themselves lived well, but also their pigs. The ancient Germans' pigs, who were gaining weight, grew up in much more comfortable conditions than modern pigs: they grazed in the forests. And we are not talking about wild boars, but domestic pigs! In the early Middle Ages, at a certain stage, even forests were measured in pigs! The size of the forest land depended on how many pigs could feed there.

Some people who eat everything are very fond of referring to their ancestors and traditions: they say, my grandfather ate everything, my father ate everything, and I will eat everything! And go to one place with your diets! But in fact, our ancestors were not omnivores, and their diet was very limited. And our ancestors adhered to a separate diet: meat and bread (in various forms) were not mixed. The modern European tradition of combining meat and bread as staple foods is based on the symbiosis of the Roman and barbarian food systems, which arose only after the collapse of the Western Roman Empire. And even then not immediately, and not in all parts of Europe.

It was very interesting to learn from the book that in Ancient Rome bread had to be wheat, and rye was considered a weed. Remember this when you go grocery shopping! It was only when the Roman Empire began to collapse that rye became a staple grain in Europe because it was much easier to grow. This is why rye bread is so popular in our country.

The decisive event in the history of European nutrition according to Montanari was associated with the abolition of free access rights to the forest for the majority of the population. These rights were usurped by the feudal lords. This circumstance led to a qualitative change in the nutrition of the lower strata, deprived of the opportunity to hunt forest game and raise pigs on forest food.

For most peasants, rye bread has become the main food since the 11th century, and only on the Mediterranean coast does wheat remain the main cereal crop.

Over the past two millennia, Europe has gone through various periods in terms of food supply. It is wrong to say that in the Middle Ages the population was starving, but in the Renaissance and Modern times the situation gets better. There is no such dependence. For example, the 12th-13th centuries in Western Europe (late Middle Ages) were a fairly favorable time. The economy is growing, and hunger strikes among the population are very rare. But in the 70s of the 13th century, an economic crisis began, and already at the beginning of the next century famine came to Europe. In the Pyrenees, up to a quarter of the population died out in 1302. And in 1347, a black rat showed up in Europe and brought the plague. It is believed that it was the long-term fasting that contributed to the crushing blow of the plague on the weakened population.

But life is like a zebra. After the plague epidemic, life in Europe becomes better, more fun and satisfying. There are much fewer eaters, and meat is once again becoming available to the general public. Especially a lot of meat products were consumed at that time in Germany, Poland, Sweden, England and the Netherlands. Even on the peasant table, this product began to be found quite often. But if the peasants were content mainly with meat from pigs, which were kept in a stall (access to the forest was closed to the peasants), then the city switched to beef and lamb. But they did not gorge themselves on meat everywhere in Europe - on the Mediterranean coast they still adhered to vegetarian dietary traditions - just as in Roman times. Hearty European times continued until the 16th century.

After reading Montanari’s book, it becomes clear why some now familiar food products ended up on the European menu.

The Catholic Church, which with its fast days spoiled the mood of the meat-eaters of that time, had a strong influence on the human diet of those times: they were forbidden to eat meat from 140 to 160 days a year! And the priests of that time did not achieve their goal through persuasion. Under Charlemagne, fast breakers faced the death penalty! But eating fish was allowed. And fish in such “lenten” conditions became a product that replaces meat, and thus its role in the diet increased sharply compared to ancient times. The trouble was that this product was perishable, but a solution was found here: they began to salt and dry the fish. The economies of entire European regions were based on fish procurement. And all because the priests went too far regarding fasting days.

What’s interesting is that Protestants disagreed with Catholics based on their attitude to food. Luther rejected the fasts with which the Catholic Church tormented the people. Unlike the Italians and other southerners, the meat-eating Germans found it difficult to go without meat during Lent. It is not surprising that the rebellion against the power of the pope found its support precisely in Germany and in those parts of Europe where meat was historically the No. 1 food.

During the Renaissance, other products that are now familiar to us, which Europeans had not previously consumed, appeared in Europe. Rice is widespread in Spain. Buckwheat became popular in Western Europe in the 17th century. The discovery of America led to the widespread cultivation of maize, which, however, was considered more of a fodder crop than a food crop. In the 18th century, potatoes conquered Europe.

It would seem that the variety of the table should improve the nutrition of the population, but it was the other way around. Most of the new products appeared as a replacement for traditional meat and bread, so the spread of new products was accompanied by a deterioration in the nutrition of the common people. From the mid-16th century, Europeans ate less and less meat, except in mountainous pastoral areas. This was facilitated by population growth, a ban on keeping livestock in the city due to increased urban density, and a reduction in trade with the East due to the Turks. First, bread comes to replace meat, but not wheat, but from a mixture of cereals. Later, bread will be replaced by potatoes and corn. The more bread in the diet, the stronger the impact of lean years on the population. And crop failures at that time become too frequent. In the 17th century, the European population goes through several severe famines.

Sugar came to Europe quite late: in the 14th-15th centuries. Sugar consumption was more common in Mediterranean countries. In the 16th century, sugar was a staple food, used for cooking but not for sweetening drinks. At this time, Europeans drink not tea and coffee, but “good old” wine and beer. And they drink a lot.

One or two liters of wine or several liters of beer per person per day was the norm for Europe at that time. They drank so much simply because they were thirsty. It must be taken into account that people at that time ate a lot of salted foods, and it was impossible to wash them down with plain water - at best, it was diluted with wine as an antiseptic. Medicinal properties were also attributed to wine. As documents show, patients drank it even in hospitals! Still, people from the distant past were in a number of aspects much more intelligent than the current generation. Our modern Russian “intellectuals” have gone so far as to equate beer and wine with vodka! And history shows that there is no harm from beer and wine, except for the benefits. They drank wine and beer “without drying out” in Europe, but for some reason Russia got drunk... With these very “intellectuals” in power.

Coffee and tea began to come into fashion only at the beginning of the 17th century, as did strong alcoholic drinks (vodka, rum, whiskey, gin). First, coffee came to Europe, borrowed from the Turks; they began to drink tea a little later. Both coffee and tea were elite drinks for a long time, but by the end of the 18th century in some countries they were already consumed by the broad masses. Both tea and coffee successfully replaced wine and beer in Europe. Our deputies believe that everything can be solved by prohibitions, and history shows us that one fashion (including in nutrition) is successfully replaced not by prohibitions, but by another fashion.

The 18th century in Europe is characterized by a sharp increase in population, which led to an agrotechnical revolution in agriculture: sown areas are not just expanding - the very way they are used is changing. The role of potatoes is growing, which, unlike grains, is less dependent on climate change (and even military action), and also makes it possible to feed more people on equal sown areas. For the same reason, there is an increase in corn production. This did not stop the population from starving, but the mass extinction of Europeans was no longer observed in the 18th century.

Unfortunately, you can't live on corn alone. The transition of the common people to this product led to the spread of the terrible disease pellagra, caused by a lack of nicotinic acid, on the continent. When the population did not have the opportunity to diversify their diet and survived only on corn, they were struck by pellagra. Montanari: "Pellagra followed the corn."

But potatoes or corn did not become the main food of the common population everywhere. In Central and Southern Italy, their place was taken by pasta (“pasta”). It was bread that could be stored for a very long time, which was indispensable during crop failures. The population of southern Italy did not starve, unlike those parts of Europe that depended on potatoes or corn. In Europe, pasta became known in the 12th century - in Sicily. And it was the Sicilians who were the first to be nicknamed “pasta people”. And since the 18th century, this “honorary” nickname passed to the Neapolitans.

A decisive change in the diet of ordinary Europeans occurred at the end of the 19th century. The Industrial Revolution allowed people to remember meat again. By the end of the century, the British returned to the traditional meat table for German Europe, and all other Europeans (who did not fall into the Soviet zone of occupation) returned in the 50s of the 20th century. But such a return to a satisfying past concerns only Europe, not Russia. In principle, Montanari very rarely mentions our country - and this is understandable. It is like a tumor: not that it exists completely separately from Europe, but it cannot be called part of a healthy European body.

In Russia, they began to feed the population with meat after Montanari wrote his book - at the beginning of the 21st century, when the oil-for-food program began working at full capacity. But the joy did not last long. When Russia began to “get up from its knees,” it was decided to give up meat. And at the same time from cheeses, tomatoes and apples. To our guides and keepers of the bonds - everything, and to us - eternal fasting. These are traditional Russian values.

Every year there is a higher and higher level of preparation for medieval festivals. The most stringent requirements are imposed on the identity of a suit, shoes, tent, and household items. However, for a stronger immersion in the environment, it would be good to adhere to other rules of the eras. One of them is identical food. It happens that a reenactor spends money on the costume of a rich nobleman, selects his court (team), surroundings, and has buckwheat porridge in his pot and on the table.

What did the inhabitants of various classes of the city and village of the Middle Ages eat?

In the XI-XIII centuries. The food of most of the population of Western Europe was very monotonous. They especially consumed a lot of bread. Bread and wine (grape juice) were the main, popular food products of the unprivileged population of Europe. According to French researchers, in the X-XI centuries. secularists and monks consumed 1.6-1.7 kg of bread per day, which was washed down with large amounts of wine, grape juice or water. Peasants were often limited to 1 kg of bread and 1 liter of juice per day. The poorest drank fresh water, and to prevent it from going rotten, they put in it marsh plants containing ether - arum, calamus, etc. A wealthy city dweller in the late Middle Ages ate up to 1 kg of bread daily. The main European cereals during the Middle Ages were wheat and rye, of which the first predominated in Southern and Central Europe, the second in Northern Europe. Barley was extremely widespread. The main grain crops were significantly supplemented by spelled and millet (in the southern regions), oats (in the northern). In Southern Europe, they mainly consumed wheat bread, in Northern Europe, barley bread, and in Eastern Europe, rye bread. For a long time, bread products were unleavened flatbreads (bread in the form of a loaf and loaves of bread began to be baked only towards the end of the Middle Ages). The cakes were hard and dry because they were baked without yeast. Barley cakes lasted longer than others, so warriors (including crusading knights) and wanderers preferred to take them on the road.

Medieval mobile bread maker 1465-1475. Most ovens were naturally stationary. The feast in Matsievsky's Bible (B. M. 1240-1250) looks very modest. Or the features of the image. Perhaps in the middle of the 13th century it was difficult to find food.
They kill a bull with a hammer. “Book of Trecento Drawings” Tacuina sanitatis Casanatense 4182 (XIV century) Fish seller. “Book of Trecento Drawings” Tacuina sanitatis Casanatense 4182 (XIV century)
Feast, page detail January, Book of Hours of the Limburg Brothers, cycle "Seasons". 1410-1411 Vegetable vendor. Hood. Joachim Beuckelaer (1533-74)
Dance among the eggs, 1552. art. Aertsen Pieter Kitchen interior from the parable of the feast, 1605. Hood. Joachim Wtewael
Trader fructati 1580. Hood. Vincenzo Campi Vincenzo Campi (1536–1591) Fishwife. Hood. Vincenzo Campi Vincenzo Campi (1536–1591)
Kitchen. Hood. Vincenzo Campi Vincenzo Campi (1536–1591) Game shop, 1618-1621. Hood. Franz Snyders Franz Snyders (with Jan Wildens)

The bread of the poor was different from the bread of the rich. The first one was mainly rye and of low quality. On the table of the rich, wheat bread made from sifted flour was common. Obviously, the peasants, even if they grew wheat, almost did not know the taste of wheat bread. Their lot was rye bread made from poorly ground flour. Often, bread was replaced with flatbreads made from flour of other cereals, or even from chestnuts, which played the role of a very important food resource in Southern Europe (before the advent of potatoes). In times of famine, the poor added acorns and roots to their bread.

The next most frequently consumed foods after bread and grape juice (or wine) were salads and vinaigrettes. Although their components were different than in our time. The main vegetable plant was turnip. It has been used since the 6th century. in raw, boiled and mushy form. Turnips were always included in the daily menu. After the turnip came the radish. In Northern Europe, rutabaga and cabbage were added to almost every dish. In the East - horseradish, in the South - lentils, peas, beans of different varieties. They even baked bread from peas. Stews were usually made with peas or beans.

The range of medieval garden crops differed from the modern one. In use were asparagus, boudiak, kupena, which were added to the salad; quinoa, potashnik, kudryavets - mixed in vinaigrette; sorrel, nettle, hogweed - added to the soup. Bearberry, knotweed, mint and bison were chewed raw.

Carrots and beets entered the diet only in the 16th century.

The most common fruit crops in the Middle Ages were apple and gooseberry. In fact, until the end of the fifteenth century. The range of vegetables and fruits grown in European gardens and gardens did not change significantly compared to the Roman era. But, thanks to the Arabs, Europeans of the Middle Ages became acquainted with citrus fruits: oranges and lemons. Almonds came from Egypt, and apricots came from the East (after the Crusades).

In addition to bread, they ate a lot of cereals. In the North - barley, in the East - rye grout, in the South - semolina. Buckwheat was almost never sown in the Middle Ages. Very common crops were millet and spelt. Millet is the oldest grain in Europe; millet cakes and millet porridge were made from it. Noodles were made from unpretentious spelt, which grew almost everywhere and was not afraid of the vagaries of the weather. Corn, potatoes, tomatoes, sunflowers and much more, known today, were not yet known to medieval people.

The diet of ordinary townspeople and peasants differed from the modern diet in that it contained insufficient protein. About 60% of the diet (if not more for certain low-income groups of the population) was carbohydrates: bread, flatbreads, and various cereals. The lack of nutritional value of food was compensated for by quantity. People ate only when their stomachs were full. And the feeling of fullness was usually associated with heaviness in the stomach. Meat was consumed relatively rarely, mainly during holidays. True, the table of noble lords, clergy and city aristocracy was very plentiful and varied.

There have always been differences in the diet of the “top” and “bottom” of society. The former were not disadvantaged in meat dishes, primarily due to the prevalence of hunting, since there was still quite a lot of game in the forests of the medieval West at that time. There were bears, wolverines, deer, wild boars, roe deer, aurochs, bison, and hares; of birds - black grouse, partridges, wood grouse, bustards, wild geese, ducks, etc. According to archaeologists, medieval people ate the meat of birds such as crane, eagle, magpie, rook, heron, and bittern. Small birds from the order passerines were considered a delicacy. Chopped starlings and tits were added to vegetable salads. Fried kings and shrikes were served cold. Orioles and flycatchers were baked, wagtails were stewed, swallows and larks were stuffed into pies. The more beautiful the bird was, the more delicious the dish made from it was considered. For example, nightingale tongue pate was prepared only on major holidays by royal or ducal chefs. At the same time, significantly more animals were exterminated than could be eaten or stored for future use, and, as a rule, most of the meat of wild animals simply disappeared due to the impossibility of preserving it. Therefore, by the end of the Middle Ages, hunting could no longer be relied upon as a reliable means of subsistence. Secondly, the table of a noble person could always be replenished at the expense of the city market (the market in Paris was especially famous for its abundance), where one could buy a wide variety of products - from game to fine wines and fruits. In addition to game, the meat of domestic birds and animals was consumed - pork (for fattening pigs, a part of the forest was usually fenced off and wild boars were driven there), lamb, goat meat; meat of geese and chickens. The balance of meat and plant foods depended not only on geographical, economic and social, but also on the religious conditions of society. As is known, a total of about half of the year (166 days) in the Middle Ages consisted of fasting days associated with four main and weekly (Wednesday, Friday, Saturday) fasts. On these days, eating meat and meat and dairy products was forbidden with greater or lesser severity. Exceptions were made only for the seriously ill, women in labor, and Jews. In the Mediterranean region, less meat was consumed than in Northern Europe. The hot climate of the Mediterranean probably had an effect. But he’s not the only one. Due to the traditional lack of feed, grazing, etc. Fewer livestock were raised there. The highest meat consumption in Europe during the late Middle Ages was in Hungary: on average about 80 kg per year. In Italy, in Florence, for example, about 50 kg. In Siena 30 kg in the 15th century. In Central and Eastern Europe they ate more beef and pork. In England, Spain, Southern France and Italy - lamb. Pigeons were bred specifically for food. City dwellers ate more meat than peasants. Of all the types of food consumed at that time, it was mainly pork that was easily digestible; other foods often contributed to indigestion. Probably for this reason, the type of a fat, puffy person, outwardly quite portly, but in reality simply poorly nourished and suffering from unhealthy obesity, became widespread.

Fish noticeably supplemented and diversified the table of medieval people (especially on days of numerous long fasts) - fresh (they ate raw or half-raw fish mainly in winter, when there was a lack of greens and vitamins), but especially smoked, dried, dried or salted (they ate such fish on the road, just like flatbreads). For residents of the sea coast, fish and seafood constituted almost the main food products. The Baltic and North Sea were fed with herring, the Atlantic with cod and mackerel, the Mediterranean with tuna and sardines. Far from the sea, the waters of large and small rivers and lakes served as a source of rich fish resources. Fish, less than meat, was the privilege of the rich. But if the food of the poor was cheap local fish, then the rich could afford to feast on “noble” fish brought from afar.

For a long time, mass salting of fish was hampered by a shortage of salt, which was a very expensive product in those days. Rock salt was rarely mined; salt-containing sources were more often used: salt water was evaporated in salt works, and then the salt was pressed into cakes, which were sold at a high price. Sometimes these pieces of salt - of course, this primarily concerns the early Middle Ages - played the role of money. But even later, housewives took care of every pinch of salt, so it was not easy to salt a lot of fish. The lack of salt was partly compensated by the use of spices - cloves, pepper, cinnamon, laurel, nutmeg and many others. etc. Pepper and cinnamon were brought from the East, and they were very expensive, because ordinary people could not afford them. The common people often ate mustard, dill, caraway seeds, onions, and garlic that grew everywhere. The widespread use of spices can be explained not only by the gastronomic tastes of the era, but it was also prestigious. In addition, spices were used to diversify dishes and, if possible, hide the bad smell of meat, fish, and poultry, which were difficult to keep fresh in the Middle Ages. And finally, the abundance of spices put into sauces and gravies compensated for poor processing of food and roughness of dishes. At the same time, very often spices changed the original taste of food and caused a strong burning sensation in the stomach.

In the XI-XIII centuries. medieval man rarely ate dairy products and consumed little fat. The main sources of vegetable fat for a long time were flax and hemp (olive oil was common in Greece and the Middle East; north of the Alps it was practically unknown); animal - pig. It was noted that fats of vegetable origin were more common in the south of Europe, and animal fats in the north. Vegetable oil was also produced from pistachios, almonds, walnuts and pine nuts, chestnuts and mustard.

The inhabitants of the mountains (especially in Switzerland) made cheese from milk, and the inhabitants of the plains made cottage cheese. Sour milk was used to make curdled milk. Very rarely, milk was used to make sour cream and butter. Animal oil in general was an extraordinary luxury, and was constantly on the table only of kings, emperors, and the highest nobility. For a long time, Europe was limited in sweets; sugar appeared in Europe thanks to the Arabs and until the 16th century. was considered a luxury. It was obtained from sugar cane and production was expensive and labor intensive. Therefore, sugar was available only to wealthy segments of society.

Of course, the food supply largely depended on the natural, climatic and weather conditions of a particular area. Any whim of nature (drought, heavy rains, early frosts, storms, etc.) took the peasant’s economy out of its normal rhythm and could lead to famine, the fear of which Europeans experienced throughout the Middle Ages. Therefore, it is no coincidence that throughout the Middle Ages many medieval authors constantly spoke about the threat of famine. For example, an empty stomach became a constant theme in the medieval novel about the fox Renard. In the Middle Ages, when the threat of hunger always lurked for a person, the main advantage of food and table was satiety and abundance. On holiday it was necessary to eat so much that on hungry days there would be something to remember. Therefore, for a wedding in the village, the family slaughtered the last cattle and cleaned the cellar to the ground. On weekdays, a piece of bacon with bread was considered “royal food” by the English commoner, and some Italian sharecropper limited himself to a piece of bread with cheese and an onion. In general, as F. Braudel points out, during the late Middle Ages the average weight was limited to 2 thousand calories per day and only the upper strata of society “reached” the needs of a modern person (it is defined as 3.5 – 5 thousand calories). In the Middle Ages they usually ate twice a day. From those times, a funny saying has been preserved that angels need food once a day, people twice, and animals three times. They ate at different hours than now. The peasants had breakfast no later than 6 o’clock in the morning (it is no coincidence that breakfast in German was called “frustük”, i.e. “early piece”, the French name for breakfast “dezhene” and the Italian name “dijune” (early) are similar in meaning to it. ) In the morning we ate most of the day's ration in order to work better. During the day the soup came (“soupE” in France, “sopper” (soup food) in England, “mittag” (midday) in Germany), and people ate their afternoon meal. By evening the work was over - there was no need to eat. As soon as it got dark, the ordinary people of the village and city went to bed. Over time, the nobility imposed its food tradition on the entire society: breakfast moved closer to noon, lunch was wedged into the middle of the day, and dinner moved towards the evening.

At the end of the 15th century, the first consequences of the Great Geographical Discoveries began to affect the food of Europeans. After the discovery of the New World, pumpkin, zucchini, Mexican cucumber, sweet potatoes (yams), beans, peppers, cocoa, coffee, as well as corn (maize), potatoes, tomatoes, sunflowers, which were brought by the Spaniards and British from America, appeared in the diet of Europeans. at the beginning of the sixteenth century.

Among drinks, grape wine traditionally occupied the first place - and not only because Europeans happily indulged in the pleasures of Bacchus. The consumption of wine was forced by the poor quality of water, which, as a rule, was not boiled and which, due to the fact that nothing was known about pathogenic microbes, caused stomach diseases. They drank a lot of wine, according to some researchers, up to 1.5 liters per day. Even children were given wine. Wine was necessary not only for meals, but also for preparing medicines. Along with olive oil, it was considered a good solvent. Wine was also used for church needs, during the liturgy, and grape must satisfied the needs of medieval people for sweets. But if the bulk of the population resorted to local wine, often of poor quality, then the upper strata of society ordered fine wines from distant countries. In the late Middle Ages, Cypriot, Rhine, Moselle, Tokay wines, and Malvasia enjoyed a high reputation. At a later time - port, Madeira, sherry, Malaga. In the south they preferred natural wines, in the north of Europe, in cooler climates, fortified ones. Over time, they became addicted to vodka and alcohol (they learned to make alcohol in distillers around 1100, but for a long time the production of alcohol was in the hands of pharmacists, who considered alcohol as a medicine that gave a feeling of “warmth and confidence”), who for a long time treated it as medicine. At the end of the fifteenth century. This “medicine” appealed to so many citizens that the Nuremberg authorities were forced to ban the sale of alcohol on holidays. In the 14th century Italian liqueur appeared, and in the same century they learned to make alcohol from fermented grain.

Grape crush. Pergola training, 1385 Bologne, Niccolo-student, Forli. Brewer at work. the housebook of the brother's endowment of the family Mendel 1425.
Tavern Party, Flanders 1455 Good and bad manners. Valerius Maximus, Facta et dicta memorabilia, Bruges 1475

A truly popular drink, especially north of the Alps, was beer, which even the nobility did not refuse. The best beer was brewed from sprouted barley (malt) with the addition of hops (by the way, the use of hops for brewing was precisely a discovery of the Middle Ages, the first reliable mention of it dates back to the 12th century; in general, barley beer (mash) was known in ancient times) and what some cereal. From the 12th century beer is mentioned constantly. Barley beer (ale) was especially popular in England, but brewing based on the use of hops came here from the continent only around 1400. In terms of quantity, beer consumption was approximately the same as wine, i.e. 1.5 liters daily. In Northern France, beer competed with cider, which came into especially widespread use from the end of the 15th century. and enjoyed success mainly among the common people.

From the second half of the 16th century. chocolate appeared in Europe; in the first half of the seventeenth century. - coffee and tea, because they cannot be considered “medieval” drinks.

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