Correctly setting the ignition timing (IAF) is one of the main aspects of adjustment that allows you to achieve proper engine operation. Due to an incorrectly set OZ, the engine will work intermittently, and in some cases it will not start at all. You can use a strobe light to make adjustments. How to build a strobe light for installing the ignition with your own hands - learn from this material.
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Description of the strobe
How to make a simple strobe for setting up an OZ on LEDs, what elements will the circuit of the device consist of? First, let's look at the main characteristics of the device.
Working diagram
The main constituent elements using the example of the above diagram:
- The power circuit consists of switch SA1, diode element VD1 and capacitor device C2. The diode is used to protect other components from erroneous polarity reversal. The capacitor itself is used to block possible interference, thus preventing failure of the trigger. The purpose of switch SA1 is to activate and deactivate power.
- An equally important component is the input circuit, which includes the controller, resistor elements R1 and R2 and capacitor device C1. The role of the controller here is played by the device clamp, which is called a crocodile, it is fixed on the first cylinder. If the connection is correct, then the above elements form a simple differential circuit.
- Trigger circuit. This component consists of two single vibrators used to generate a signal of the desired frequency at the output. These components perform the function of frequency setting.
- The output stage is made using resistor elements R5-R9, and transistors VT1 are also used for this purpose. VT2 and VT3. These devices are necessary to increase the output current of the trigger board. The resistor device R5 sets a certain base current of the transistor element number 1 (the video was shot by Maxim Sokolov).
Operating principle
The device for setting the advance angle is powered by a built-in battery or car battery. When the switch is activated, the trigger starts working first. At outputs 2 and 12 of the board, an increased potential is formed, and a low potential is formed at pins 1 and 13. At this moment, capacitor parts C3 and C4 receive power from resistors.
The signal from the controller goes through a differential circuit and is ultimately supplied to the DD1.1 input. Since it is a one-shot device, it results in switching of the device. Then the circuit redischarges C1, which again contributes to switching the trigger.
Element DD1.1 will respond to pulses supplied from the controller, thus generating new rectangular pulses at the first pin. In the case of the second one-shot DD1.2, the principle of operation will be identical - thanks to this device, the pulse duration at pin 13 is reduced by 10 times. This element operates under a load supplied from the amplifier stage of transistors, which open for the duration of the pulse. Thanks to the resistor components R6, R7 and R8, the current is limited, its value in total should not exceed 0.8 amperes.
The current value is not high, this is due to the following factors:
- the pulse duration is no more than 1 second;
- Usually, car owners need no more than 10 minutes to set up the OZ; during this time the crystals will not overheat;
- diodes used today have improved performance and features when compared to devices used more than 10 years ago.
Printed circuit board and assembly parts
In order to build a strobe light with your own hands, you will need a board with all the necessary elements.
As an example:
- On the board we are considering, the diode function is performed by the KD2999V controller. In principle, you can use any other one, you just need to take into account that the diode element must have a minimum voltage drop.
- Capacitors are also used. It is important that they are rated at 0.068 µF. As for the main capacitor device C1, it is a high-voltage part, the voltage on which is 400 V.
- The trigger device - TM2 - has excellent resistance to possible interference.
- It is necessary that the transistors used VT1, as well as VT2, have a high gain.
- As for the diodes marked with the symbols HL1-HL9, they should have maximum brightness, and it is also desirable that the dispersion angle be small. Diode components are mounted on a separate circuit; their number should be 3 in a row.
Device setup nuances
Before using a homemade strobe light on a car, it must be configured correctly. Initially, you should adjust the trimming resistor component, this will make it possible to provide the desired visual effect. As you move the slider, you can see that due to the drop in pulse, the illumination of the marks will be ineffective, and if the pulse is too high, the lighting will be washed out. At this stage, you need to correctly adjust the effectiveness of the light flashes (video shot by Serj ZP).
Installation of UOZ with a strobe light
How to use a homemade device to adjust the OZ:
- First you need to start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature. To do this, let the unit run at idle speed.
- Then you will need to connect your homemade device to a power source. This can be either a built-in battery or a car battery.
- Next, a copper sensor should be connected to the core of cylinder 1; to do this, wind it around the core.
- After this, the diode light bulb should be aimed at the mark marked on the housing of the distribution mechanism.
- When these steps are completed, you need to find a fixed point, it is located on the flywheel pulley.
- In order to ensure that these points coincide, you need to rotate the switchgear housing. And when the points coincide, the body must be fixed in this position. When the points match, the diodes should light up.
How to make a device yourself?
Today, there are many different options for making a strobe light. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with one of the simplest and least costly manufacturing methods.
To implement it you will need the following components:
- transistor device KT315;
- thyristor element KU112A, as well as resistor components rated at 0.125 W;
- diode light bulbs or a flashlight with LEDs, which will be used as a housing, and the number of diode elements must be at least 6 pieces;
- capacitor devices C1;
- V2 in the diagram is the low frequency diode component;
- you will also need a relay, its index should be RWH-SH-112D;
- power cable, its length must be at least one meter;
- clamps;
- You will also need a piece of copper wire approximately 10 cm long.
All these components can be purchased at any themed store or radio market.
How to build such a device yourself:
- To begin with, you should drill a hole on the back side of the prepared case, through which you will lay the power cable.
- Then the prepared clamps must be soldered to the ends of the prepared cords. It is advisable to mark on them in advance which will be positive and which will be negative; it will be better if the colors of the clamps are different.
- The sensor itself is mounted on the left or right of the housing. One more hole needs to be made on the side of the case; it will be used to lay the cord to pin X1.
- Then a prepared piece of copper wire should be soldered to the main cable core. This wire is considered one of the main ones, since it will be used as a device sensor.
- All that remains is to insulate the connections with electrical tape or heat pipes.
Photo gallery “Assembling a strobe light with your own hands”
Conclusion
As you can see, in general, building such a device is not a problem. It is enough to have some knowledge in the field of electronics and follow the steps described in the instructions. If you make mistakes during assembly, the device may not work correctly. If you do not have experience in making such devices, then it may make sense to think about buying a new strobe light.
Many car owners would like to drive down the street at high speed with the special lights on. signals thereby attracting people's attention. But this pleasure is allowed only to a few, and the use of flashing lights and other special equipment in full view of mere mortals is subject to a heavy fine. But these are just formalities, and having strobes and using them correctly is not prohibited. In connection with this idea, the idea arose to construct simple strobes. The only difference between this type of stroboscopes is their absolute simplicity in manufacturing and the availability of assembly elements.
A short assembly video:
For the device you will need:
- 2 turn relays – 494.3787 (used in GAZ-3110, GAZ-33021 “Gazelle”, GAZ-2752 “Sobol”)
- 2 variable resistors with a nominal value of 20 KOhm (the flash speed will be high) or 470 KOhm (the flash will be a little slower).
- 1 five-pin automotive relay 983.3777-01 (98.3777, 903.3747-01, constant 984.377, 90.3747)
Assembly.
First you need to disassemble the turn relay and unsolder the resistor (it is shown in the photo) and solder a variable resistor instead. (Since the variable resistor has three legs, it is necessary to solder the central leg to one of the side legs)
For the second relay you also need to do the same procedure.
- Advice! It is recommended to remove all variable resistors - since these elements regulate the flash speed of LEDs or light bulbs and the speed of switching between each other (stroboscopes).
The best option is to connect the circuit to the DRL.
A simple circuit for stroboscopes.
- PC 5 is a simple five-pin relay.
But it is recommended to assemble the diagram that is presented below. Making it, of course, is a little more complicated, but here you can easily switch from using daytime running lights to strobe lights.
- R1, R2 – variable resistors;
- PC 5 – simple five-pin relay
- RP1, RP2 – turn relay 494.3787
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Owners of carburetor cars are familiar firsthand with the difficulties of the ignition adjustment process. This is usually done by ear, which is not very convenient. Using a strobe light this process can be made easier. However, industrial devices are quite expensive, so many people make a strobe light for ignition with their own hands.
Disadvantages of industrial models
Industrial devices often have certain disadvantages that make the usefulness of the device highly questionable.
To begin with, the price for them can be quite significant. For example, modern digital models will cost a car enthusiast 1000 rubles. More functional models cost from 1700. Advanced stroboscopes cost about 5500 rubles. Needless to say, a car strobe light (made with your own hands) will cost a car enthusiast 100-200 rubles.
Often in factory devices, the manufacturer uses a particularly expensive gas-discharge lamp. The lamp has a certain lifespan, and after some time it will have to be replaced. And this in itself is tantamount to purchasing a new factory device.
Why is it worth making a strobe light yourself?
The shortcomings of factory-made and technological devices push the car enthusiast to independently manufacture this device. In addition, it is much cheaper to equip this equipment with LEDs instead of an expensive lamp. An ordinary laser pointer or flashlight is suitable as a source of diodes or a donor.
The remaining parts will also cost pennies. You don't need any special tools. The budget for the manufacturing process of a strobe light will be no more than 100 rubles.
How to make a strobe light with your own hands?
There are a huge number of schemes and options for manufacturing. However, for the most part, all projects to create this gadget are similar. Let's see what you need for assembly.
We will need a simple transistor KT315. It can be easily found in an old Soviet radio. The designation may be slightly different, but it doesn't matter. Thyristor KU112A can be easily obtained from the power supply of an old TV. You can also find small resistors there. Since we are making an LED strobe light with our own hands, we will naturally need an LED flashlight. To do this, it is better to purchase the cheapest one from China. In addition, you need to stock up on a capacitor up to 16 V, any low-frequency diode, a small 12 A relay, wires, alligators, a 0.5 m long shielded wire, as well as a small piece of copper wire.
Assembling the device
The circuit is small, but you can place it right in that same Chinese lantern. So, it is advisable to pass wires through the hole in the back of the flashlight to power the device. It is better to solder crocodiles at the ends of the wires. You need to make a hole in the side wall, if the Chinese have not already made one. The shielded wire will be routed through this hole. At the opposite end, it is necessary to insulate the braid and solder the same piece of copper wire to the main core of the wire. This will be the sensor.
Device diagram and operating principle
Once current is applied through the power wires, the capacitor will charge very quickly through the resistor. When a certain charge threshold is reached, voltage will be supplied through the resistor to the opening contact of the transistor. The relay will work here. When the relay closes, it will create a circuit of a thyristor, an LED and a capacitor. Then, through the divider, the pulse reaches the control terminal of the thyristor. Next, the thyristor will open, and the capacitor will discharge to the LEDs. As a result, the strobe light, made with your own hands, will flash brightly.
Through a resistor and a thyristor, the base terminal of the transistor is connected to the common wire. Because of this, the transistor will close and the relay will turn off. The glow time of the LEDs increases, since the contact does not break immediately. But the contact will break, and the thyristor will be de-energized. The circuit will return to its base position until a new impulse is received.
By changing the capacitance of the capacitor, you can change the glow time. If you choose a larger capacitor, the DIY LED strobe will glow brighter and longer.
Device on a chip
The main part of this simple circuit is a DD1 type microcircuit. This is the so-called one-shot 155AG1. In this circuit, it is triggered only by negative impulses. The control signal will go to the KT315 transistor, and it will generate these negative pulses. Resistors 150 K ohm, 1 k ohm, 10 k ohm, as well as the KS139 zener diode work as amplitude limiters for the incoming signal from the car ignition.
A 0.1 mF capacitor together with a resistance of 20 kOhm will set the desired duration of the pulses that will be generated by the microcircuit. With such a capacitor capacity, the pulse duration will be approximately 2 ms.
Then, from the 6th leg of the microcircuit, the pulses, which by this moment will be synchronized with the ignition of the car, will go to the base terminal of the KT 829 transistor. It is here as a key. The result is a pulsed current through the LEDs.
How is this car strobe powered? With our own hands we need to run a couple of wires to the terminals of the car battery. It is imperative to monitor the battery charge level.
If you correctly assemble this simple circuit, you will immediately be able to see how the device works. If suddenly the brightness is not enough, then this is regulated by selecting the appropriate resistance.
You can use an old or Chinese lantern as a housing for the device.
Another strobe light circuit
This LED strobe, made with your own hands according to this principle, can also be powered from a car battery. Diodes will provide protection against reverse polarity. An ordinary crocodile is used as fastener here. It needs to be attached to the high-voltage contact of the first spark plug on the engine. Next, the pulse will pass through resistors and a capacitor and arrive at the input of the trigger. By that time, this input will already be turned on by a one-shot device.
Before the pulse, the one-shot device is in normal mode. The direct trigger output is low. The inverse input is, accordingly, high. A capacitor connected with a plus to the inverse output will be charged through a resistor.
A high-level pulse triggers a monostable, which switches the trigger and serves to charge the capacitor through a resistor. After 15 ms, the capacitor will be fully charged and the trigger will switch to normal mode.
As a result, the one-shot device will respond to this with a synchronous sequence of rectangular pulses with a duration of approximately 15 ms. The duration can be adjusted by replacing the resistor and capacitor.
The pulses of the second microcircuit are up to 1.5 ms. During this period, transistors are opened, which represent an electronic switch. Current then flows through the LEDs. A strobe light for a car works on this principle (whether it was made with your own hands or not does not matter - both devices shine the same way).
The current passing through the LEDs is much greater than the rated current. But, since the flashes are short-lived, the LEDs will not fail. The brightness will be enough to use this useful device even during the daytime.
This strobe light can be assembled with your own hands in the housing of the same long-suffering flashlight.
How to operate the device?
By assembling the device according to one of the given diagrams, you can simply and easily, and most importantly, accurately adjust the ignition on carburetor engines, check the correct operation of spark plugs and coils, and control the operation of the advance angle regulators.
To set the ignition as correctly as possible, it is usually assumed that the mixture is ignited a couple of degrees before the piston reaches the highest point. This angle is called the "lead angle". As the crankshaft speed increases, the angle should also increase. So, this angle is set at idle, and then it is necessary to check the correct setting in all operating modes of the unit.
Setting the ignition
We start and warm up the engine. Now we power our LED strobe and connect the sensor. Now you need to point the device at the mark on the timing case and find the mark on the flywheel. If the moment is broken, then the marks will be quite far from each other. By rotating the timing case, ensure that the marks match. When you have found this position, lock the distributor.
Then it's time to rev up. The marks will diverge, but this is a completely normal situation. This is how the ignition is set up using a strobe light.
So, we found out how to make a LED strobe with your own hands.
Many people know how important it is for the smooth operation of the engine to correctly set the ignition timing and ignition timing regulators. Incorrect setting of the initial ignition timing by only 2-3 degrees, as well as various malfunctions of the timing regulators will lead to loss of engine power, overheating, increased fuel consumption and, most sadly, a reduction in the life of the car engine.
But checking and adjusting the advance angle is a very big problem, which is not always accessible even to an experienced mechanic. A DIY strobe will help solve this problem. With their help, any car enthusiast can check and set the ignition timing within 15 minutes, as well as check the performance of the centrifugal and vacuum timing regulators.
The basis of the strobe circuit is timer devices assembled on KR1006VI1 microcircuits, which have more stable timing characteristics, since the pulse duration and pause between pulses do not depend on the voltage of the power source.
The device is connected to the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder of a gasoline engine using an alligator clip. In the upper position of the SA1 switch slider, the device operates in tachometer mode, in the lower position - in car strobe mode.
DIY strobe circuit diagram for KR1006VI1
In the upper position of the switch SA1, timer DD1 is switched on according to a pulse generator circuit with a duration of approximately 0.5 ms and is determined mainly by the values of resistor R4 and capacitor C2. This pulse duration is optimal and was selected according to the following criteria. If the pulse duration is short, the brightness of four LEDs in daylight may not be enough to illuminate the mark at low engine pulley speeds. With longer pulse durations, the image of the mark will be unclear, “blurry” at high engine speeds.
The pulse repetition period depends on the values of resistors R5, R6 and capacitor C2, and is regulated by variable resistor R6.
In the lower position of the switch SA1, the device operates in car strobe mode. Timer DD1 in this mode is switched on according to a one-shot pulse circuit with the same duration of 0.5 ms. The one-shot device is triggered by a negative voltage drop at the input of the device, which is fed through the circuit C1, R3, SA1.2 to the input of the timer DD1. Transistor VT1 amplifies the current to the required value.
A pulse current of 250 mA through the LED is too high, so the values of resistors R11, R12 are chosen so that the pulse current through each of the LEDs HL1...HL4 at a low flash frequency does not exceed 100 mA. At a high flash frequency, the period decreases, and capacitor C6 does not have time to charge through resistor R10 to a voltage close to the voltage of the power source. Therefore, the voltage across it decreases. This leads to a decrease in the pulse current through the LEDs, which significantly increases the reliability of the device.
Diode VD1 decouples the charge and discharge circuits of capacitor C2. Resistor R3 and diode VD2 protect the timer input DD1 from high positive voltage. Timer DD1 is protected from negative voltage by resistor R3 and an internal diode. Capacitors SZ, C4 are noise suppressing. Diode VD3 protects against erroneous reversal of the power supply polarity.
Any diodes from the KD521 series can be used as diodes VD1, VD2. The VD3 diode can be replaced with any diode from the Kd212 series. The KR1006VI1 timer can be replaced with an imported analog NE555. Resistor R6 is used type SPZ-Z0a with characteristic B and a motor rotation angle of 270°. You can use a SP-I type resistor, but it has a smaller motor rotation angle - 255°.
If the radio amateur does not have a variable resistor with characteristic B at his disposal, then a variable resistor with characteristic B can be used, but in this case the scale will be reversed. If there is no variable resistor with a nominal value of 220 kOhm, you can use a variable resistor with a nominal value of 150 kOhm or 470 kOhm. In the first case, the values of resistors R4, R5 should be reduced, and the value of capacitor C2 should be increased by 1.47 times. In the second case, the values of resistors R4, R5 should be increased, and the value of capacitor C2 should be reduced by 2.14 times. The temperature and time characteristics of the device depend on the type of capacitor C2, so it is better to use capacitor C2 of type K73-17 for a voltage of 63 V. Switch SA1 - any small-sized one with two positions and two directions, for example, type P2T-1 -1 V. Capacitors C5, C6 - type K50-35, but imported ones are better, they have smaller dimensions and leakage current. Capacitor C1 is type KT-2, or another type, but it must withstand a voltage of at least 500 V. Capacitors SZ, C4 are type KMZ...KM6. Variable resistor R1 - small-sized type SP4-1. Transistor VT1 must have a current gain of less than 50 and a maximum collector current of at least 0.4 A.
As VT1, you can use a field-effect transistor KP505A (B, C). In this case, resistors R8, R9 must be excluded, and the gate of the transistor must be connected to pin 3 of the DD1 microcircuit. The wire from the clamp to the device must be shielded. Its length should not be chosen more than 35...40 cm. The shielding braid is connected to the common wire at the output of the device.
When a radio amateur develops a strobe light circuit board design with his own hands (for example, in), it should be taken into account that the input circuits of the DD1 timer should be as short as possible, since a car gasoline engine is a powerful source of interference.
Setting up a strobe light yourself
Set switch SA1 to the top position according to the diagram and calibrate the scale of variable resistor R6 using a frequency meter or, worse, an oscilloscope. As a last resort, if you do not have a frequency meter and an oscilloscope, you can calibrate the device using a digital multimeter with a capacitance meter. Pulse duration t, = 0.7 R4C2. Pause duration t2 = 0.7 (R5 + R6) C2. For ease of use, the device should be calibrated in min-1. This completes the installation of the device. There is no need to equalize currents through LEDs HL1, HL2 and HL3, HL4.
Using the device is not difficult. To check the operation of the vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing regulators of a gasoline engine, set the SA1 switch slider to the lower position. Attach the sensor to the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder of the engine, supply power to the device. Start the engine and aim the flashing light at the timing marks. If the marks are difficult to see due to dirt or metal oxides, they should be cleaned and highlighted with white paint or chalk. Set the resistance of resistor R1 so that the device stably triggers a spark only when the sensor is connected to the high voltage wire of the first cylinder of a gasoline engine.
To measure the rotation speed of the engine rotor (crankshaft), move switch SA1 to the upper position, apply power to the device and direct a beam of flashing light to the pulley of a running engine with a pre-marked mark. By rotating the motor of the variable resistor R6, make sure that the pulley with the mark appears motionless. The mark should be visible only in one place on the engine pulley. If there are two marks on the pulley, this means that the flash frequency is twice the speed of the engine shaft.
The device was tested in operation for 48 hours in tachometer mode at the minimum and maximum flash frequencies of LEDs HL1 ... HL4 from a voltage source of 16 V and showed high operational reliability.
As a relay, you can use the domestic analogue of RES-10 at 12 volts.
The circuit operates according to the following algorithm: at the moment the supply voltage is supplied from the battery, capacitor C1 begins to charge through resistor R3. Having reached the desired value, this voltage goes to the base of the transistor, which opens. After this, relay a is triggered, its contact closes and prepares the thyristor for opening. As soon as the control pulse arrives at the control electrode of the thyristor through the voltage divider on resistors R1, R2, the thyristor opens, and the capacitor begins to discharge through the LEDs. There is a short bright flash.
Then the transistor closes, opens its contact and the relay, but with a slight delay, thereby increasing the LED burning time by a fraction of a second. The circuit goes to its initial state, waiting for the next control pulse.
Thanks to this simple circuit design, the flickering of the strobe LEDs becomes brighter and the mark on the flywheel is clearly visible.
Do-it-yourself strobe, simple relay circuit
By selecting the capacitor capacity, you can vary the duration of LED burning. The higher the capacitance value, the stronger the flash, but also the longer the tag trail. With a lower capacitance value, the sharpness of the mark increases, but the brightness decreases.
Elements of the strobe circuit can be placed in the body of the LED flashlight without much difficulty. A small hole is made on the back of the flashlight and power wires at least half a meter long are passed through, at the ends of which crocodiles are soldered for ease of use. A hole is also made in the side of the housing for the shielded wire of contact X1. At the end, the screen braid is tightly wrapped with electrical tape, and a 10 cm long copper wire is soldered to the central core, which is a strobe sensor. When connected, this wire must be wound in 3-4 turns onto the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder over the insulation. Be sure to do the winding as close to the spark plug as possible to avoid interference from neighboring wires.
The basis of the strobe circuit is the 155AG1 single-vibrator integrated circuit, which is triggered by pulses of negative polarity. Therefore, to form them, the control signal from the car breaker is supplied to the base of the bipolar transistor VT1, which forms them. Resistors R1, R2, R3 and zener diode VD2 are designed to limit the amplitude of the input signal coming from the ignition switch.
DIY strobe light with LEDs
Capacitance C4 and resistor R6 regulate the required duration of the pulses generated by the one-shot device. With the values specified as in the diagram, the duration of these pulses will be 1.5-2 ms.
Strobe for installing the ignition: how to use the circuit
With a strobe light, setting the ignition on a carburetor engine is always much more convenient than “by ear”. But the price tags for such equipment sometimes “bite,” which pushes many motorists to alternative solutions to this issue, for example, by making a strobe light with their own hands.
Average price of a factory product and its disadvantages
The factory version of the device has some disadvantages that significantly reduce the usefulness of such an acquisition.
It is always more convenient to set the ignition on carburetors with a strobe light
Firstly, the cost of factory stroboscopes is quite considerable. So the digital model Multitronics C2 will cost the buyer about 900-1000 rubles. The more functional AstroL5 strobe will cost 1,300 rubles. Focus F1 - a model suitable for servicing both gasoline and diesel engines - will require 1,700 rubles. its more “advanced” brother Focus F10 - 5600 rub.
Secondly, manufacturers often use an expensive gas-discharge lamp in the design of their products. It has a limited resource and may require replacement after a short time, which will not only hurt your pocket, but will be tantamount to buying a new strobe light.
How much will a homemade strobe light cost to adjust the ignition?
Based on the above disadvantages of a store-bought strobe. It seems appropriate to conclude that it is advisable to manufacture such equipment at home. Moreover, it is much more convenient and cheaper to equip it with affordable LEDs, which cost mere pennies. For such purposes, a cheap laser pointer, flashlight, etc. is quite suitable as a donor.
In the same way, there will be no problems with other components, as well as tools. The total budget for the venture should not be more than 100-150 rubles.
Video tutorial on setting up ignition with a strobe light
How to make a strobe light with your own hands
There can be many options for designing a “home” strobe. However, in general, all such projects are structurally similar. Let's look at the principle of assembling this gadget using the following example.
- transistor KT315 (you can find it in any radio equipment of a bygone era, it can have different letter indices);
- thyristor KU112A (easy to find in the switching power supply of ancient TVs);
- small-sized resistors with a power of 0.125 W;
- a cheap (Chinese) flashlight with diodes (the number of diodes may vary, but better - from 6 to 10 pieces);
- capacitor C1 for voltage from 16 Volts;
- diode V2 - any low-frequency, for example KD105 or D9;
- small-sized relay (index BS-115-12A-DC12V or RWH-SH-112D, 12 Ampere, coil - 12 Volt); however, you can also use domestic relays, for example, type RES-10, with a coil voltage of 12 Volts;
- power wires of the required length (about 0.5-0.6 m) and alligator clips for connecting the strobe to the battery;
- shielded wire up to 0.5 m, a piece of copper wire about 10 cm.
How to connect everything, strobe diagram
Strobe connection diagram
All the main parts of the device can be conveniently placed directly in the body of a pocket flashlight or a regular camera flash. At the same time, power wires pass through the rear hole of the flashlight (photoflash); at the ends they have soldered crocodile terminals of different colors or with markings (so as not to confuse “plus” and “minus”). A hole is drilled in the side wall of the housing (if it is missing) to route a shielded wire through it to pin X1. The braiding of this cable at the end must be insulated; a piece of copper wire about 0.1 m long must be soldered to the main core - this is a strobe sensor.
The operation of a strobe to set the ignition from a flashlight or flashlight
According to the diagram, after connecting the power wires to the battery, capacitor C1 begins to quickly charge through resistor R3. Upon reaching a certain degree of charge, the voltage through resistor R4 and the LEDs begins to flow to the base of the opening transistor. At this moment, relay P1 should operate. By closing, the relay contact prepares a circuit that consists of a thyristor, relay contact P1, LEDs and capacitor C1. Through dividers R1 and R2, the control electrode of the thyristor receives a pulse from contact X1.
The thyristor opens, resulting in a rapid discharge of the capacitor through the LEDs. A bright flash of a flashlight is observed.
By means of resistor R4 and a thyristor, the base of the transistor is connected to the common wire, which causes the transistor to close and the relay to turn off. At the same time, the glow period of the LEDs increases by several milliseconds due to the fact that the contact does not open immediately - due to the slight inertia and residual magnetization of the relay armature. After the contact opens, the thyristor is de-energized. The electrical circuit returns to its original state until a new impulse passes. By changing the capacitance of the capacitor used, you can change the glow time of the LEDs: more capacitance means they glow longer and brighter, but the trail from the mark on the flywheel is more noticeable.
How to use this strobe light
Using a garage-made strobe, you can easily and with great accuracy:
- set the ignition on a carburetor engine;
- check the spark plug or ignition coil;
- check the operation of the centrifugal and vacuum ignition timing regulator.
Homemade strobe is cheaper and more reliable
In order for the ignition timing to be set correctly, it is necessary to assume that the mixture is usually ignited a couple of degrees before the piston reaches the top stroke point. This angle is called the “ignition timing angle”. As the crankshaft speed increases, the SOP should also increase along a given curve. As a result, the advance angle is set at idle and then controlled in all engine operating ranges up to 5000 rpm.
When connecting a strobe, you need to wind its sensor (copper wire) directly onto the sheath of the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder of the internal combustion engine. Three or four turns will be enough. In this case, it is necessary to fix the wire in this way as close to the spark plug as possible - in order to minimize the influence of neighboring wires on the operation of the strobe. To power the device, its wires with “crocodiles” cling to the terminals of the battery. For better visibility, you will also have to additionally mark the flywheel mark with a white dot - paint or, for example, a clerical touch.
- Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature, leaving it idling within 600-800 rpm.
- Connect the strobe power wires.
- Wind the copper sensor wire onto the armor wire of the first cylinder.
- Point a flashlight, flash, laser, etc. to a fixed mark (located on the timing case).
- Then find the same moving point on the flywheel pulley.
- If the moment is violated, the moving and static marks will be relatively far from each other.
- By rotating the ignition distributor housing, ensure that the marks match and fix the distributor in this position.
- Next, you need to briefly raise the speed, as a result of which the marks will diverge again. But it normal. In this mode, the ignition is set earlier. To check this indicator, a pair of fixed marks are provided - after 5 degrees of ignition timing.
- For 3 thousand rpm, the SOP in the case of VAZ engines is 15-17 degrees.
- To check the serviceability of the spark plug, alternately wind the copper wire onto the high-voltage wires and see if there are any missing pulses. A lower frequency of LED flashes will indicate a misfire, “punching” the spark plug into the housing.
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