If you want to have a flower at home with the habits of a predator, then the Venus flytrap is what you need. Watching a flower close its traps is an exciting experience. Caring for a Venus flytrap at home is quite complicated, you need not only to feed the plant on time, but also to provide suitable conditions during the growing season and winter dormancy.
Venus flytrap or Dionea belongs to a small community of plants capable of rapid movement. In her genus Dionea, she is the only representative of the species, although she has distant relatives in the person of Aldrovanda vesicular and sundews, from which, apparently, she descended.
The area of natural distribution of the Venus flytrap is small: swamps in the southern part of the United States (Georgia, North and South Carolina, Florida). There she is on the verge of extinction. But in room culture, Dionea is quite widespread, but mainly abroad.
In nature, the Venus flytrap is a compact plant and 15cm is its largest height. From a short underground bulbous stem grows from 4 to 7 leaves, forming a rosette. Flowering occurs in spring. The peduncle is long so that pollinating insects arriving on white flowers do not accidentally fall into the trap.
When flowering ends, new traps form at the ends of the elongated leaves. In the natural form, their inner walls have a reddish tint. After introduction into culture by the method of hybridization and subsequent selection, hybrid forms were created, which are highly decorative. The number of hybrids of the plant has exceeded 25 - they differ in the color of the leaves, the shape and size of the teeth, and there may be differences in plants of the same variety.
The following hybrids are the most decorative:
- red dragon. The color of the leaves and traps is red-burgundy. Requires maximum illumination, otherwise the color fades.
- Low giant. Has the biggest traps.
- Jaws. The traps are reddish on the inside and green on the outside. The shape of the teeth is triangular.
- Long Red Fingers. The hybrid is prone to mutation, can form crossed and fused traps, their shape is cupped, and the color of the long teeth, which sometimes grow together, is red.
- Bristletooth. The traps are red, the teeth are rare and short, it forms many children.
- Fondue. It has a high ability to mutate, so plants within a variety can be very different from each other.
Venus flytrap: growing features
This exotic plant in nature lives in swamps, therefore it requires high humidity in a pot. There is practically no nitrogen in peat soil, and therefore the plant has adapted to eliminate its deficiency by eating animal food - small insects. In nature, there is no shortage of them, and in the room the florist should provide food for the Venus flytrap.
Home care
Caring for a Venus flytrap is in many ways different from that of other indoor plants, and all because of the specific conditions in which the flower is used to living. He will not tolerate even the slightest violation in care and can respond to him with illness and even death.
Ground Requirements
Dionea does not need soil in the usual sense.
But the growing substrate must meet the following requirements:
- acidity ranging from 3.5 to 4.5;
- composition of high-moor sour peat mixed with perlite, taken in a ratio of 1:1 or 2:1 (perlite is preliminarily kept in distilled water for 7 days, changing it at least twice);
Sometimes a mixture of high-moor peat and quartz sand is used in proportions of 2:1 or 3:1. Ordinary river sand will not work, and quartz sand is washed first with running water and then with distilled water. It is allowed to replace sand with ground quartz, which must be washed in the same way.
Optimal conditions of detention
Lighting
Sunlight is very important for Dionea, without which photosynthesis is simply impossible. 4-5 hours of direct sunlight per day is the minimum. This amount is enough when the rest of the time the plant is also well lit. If the Venus flytrap cannot be provided with such an amount of natural light, it is necessary to illuminate it with two small fluorescent lamps installed 20 cm above the plant or with a sodium fitolamp.
The length of daylight hours during the growing season should be from 14 to 16 hours. Do not be afraid to take your pet out to a sunny balcony or garden in summer. From spring to autumn, she will be at her best there. And she will solve the problem with food in the open air on her own.
The position of the flower pot in relation to the light should not change. It cannot be rotated.
Some flower growers place dionea in a closed aquarium or florarium. Such content can be detrimental to the plant due to the lack of air exchange and high humidity. In extreme cases, you can use a low aquarium without a lid, be sure to adjust the watering.
Humidity
For Dionea, air humidity can be in a wide range: from 35 to 70%. The plant has a positive attitude to spraying with water, and when kept outdoors, it is simply necessary. The Venus flytrap loves fresh air, but does not respond well to drafts.
The flower requires careful handling. Traps should not be touched with hands, because of this they turn black and fall off. If there is no desire to propagate Dionea by seeds, it is better to cut the peduncle before flowering, which greatly depletes the plant, this is especially important for plants that have not yet wintered.
Watering the plant
Proper watering is one of the conditions not only for the health of the Venus flytrap, but also for life.
It is carried out depending on the method of keeping the plant. Basic patterns:
- watering only with distilled water;
- its temperature should not differ from the ambient temperature;
- use only the method of irrigation through the pallet;
- at room content, water is poured into the pan with a layer of 0.5 cm every 1-2 days;
- if the flower is on the street, there should always be water in the pan, it is added so that the water layer is at least 0.5 cm;
- water for irrigation is acidified by adding 1 drop of 99% formic acid per 10 liters of water, but this should be done infrequently;
It is impossible to allow the substrate to dry out, the earth must be constantly wet, but it should not be brought to the state of dirt.
Top dressing and fertilizer
This plant does not need traditional houseplant food. His food is live insects, but not any. You can feed Dionea with flies, bees, she will not refuse spiders and even slugs. The size of the insect should be 2 times smaller than the trap, and it is better if they are very small. During the growing season, spent at room conditions, only three feedings of 1 insect are enough. If Dioneya spends the summer outdoors, she does not need to be fed - she will find food on the street herself. A plant bought in a store is fed for the first time after growing 3-4 leaves in new conditions. In winter, the flower does not need food.
How to transplant?
The frequency of transplants depends on the degree of mineralization of irrigation water. If the salts in it are less than 5 mg per 1 liter, then it can be transplanted after a year, otherwise an annual transplant is needed. It is carried out in late spring or early summer. How to transplant?
- Spray the plant with Epin the day before transplanting.
- Prepare a tall, but not too wide pot with plenty of drainage holes.
- Cover part of the pot with substrate.
- Hold the plant above the bulbs without touching the traps.
- Immerse in the substrate so that all the light parts are covered with it.
The plant purchased in the store is immediately transplanted into a self-prepared substrate, spilling it with the Ribav-extra preparation.
Wintering
This plant has a strong seasonality of vegetation. Therefore, in winter, for 3-4 months, it is in a state of deep dormancy. Dionea should be prepared for wintering gradually, lowering the temperature and reducing daylight hours. It will take about a month to prepare. The optimum temperature for keeping a flower is 0-5ºС. For the first wintering, it is slightly higher - 5-7 degrees Celsius. If the plant has already wintered, it may be lower. The critical limit is minus 10 ºС.
Dionea herself will tell you that it is time for her to spend the winter. With proper preparation, the leaves become wider, and the traps become small, arranged horizontally.
In the case of wintering at low positive temperatures, Dionea is watered into a pan if the top layer of the substrate dries out a little. At temperatures above plus 5 degrees, it is also illuminated with one fluorescent lamp with cold light, suspended at a height of 20 cm above the flower, organizing an eight-hour daylight hours for it. The water with which the flower is watered during this period should not differ in temperature from the surrounding air.
If there is no cold place for wintering in the room, the flower can be placed in the refrigerator for a dormant period.
But first you need to prepare it:
- after a reduction in daylight hours and a gradual decrease in temperature, the flower pot is shed with a fungicide diluted in distilled water (but only in cold water), the flower itself is sprayed with a solution;
- put a plastic bag on the pot with it, in which 2 holes are made for ventilation;
- placed in a refrigerator where the temperature is from 0 to 5 degrees Celsius;
- the plant does not need light at this time, but once a month it is necessary to moisten the top layer of the substrate with distilled water at the same temperature as in the refrigerator. After such wintering, the plant should be transplanted into a new substrate, all dead leaves and traps are removed.
During the winter dormancy, Dionea does not need food.
Venus flytrap: breeding
Dionea is propagated by daughter bulbs, sowing seeds and leafy cuttings. Before you figure out how to grow it from seeds collected from hybrid plants, you need to consider that future seedlings will not repeat parental traits.
cuttings
For propagation by cuttings, leaves are suitable, cut as close as possible to the bulb with a sharp knife.
Cutting process:
- we lower the cutting into a solution of heteroauxin, the exposure time is 20 minutes;
- sterilize high-moor peat;
- pour it into a container with drainage holes with a layer of 2 cm;
- we obliquely deepen the entire white and a little green part of the cutting into peat moistened with a fungicide solution;
- we create greenhouse conditions - 100% humidity, a temperature of about 23ºС and maximum illumination.
After 5 weeks, the first leaves should appear, and after 3 months, the plants are transplanted to a permanent place.
How to grow from seed?
If they want to collect seeds from their own plant, the flowers are pollinated with a soft brush, transferring pollen from the stamens to the pistil. If the flower is pollinated, it will quickly wither. The seeds are ready when the pod starts to crack. They require stratification within 4 weeks if freshly harvested and more than 6 weeks if they have been lying for more than 3 months.
Stratification can be combined with sowing:
- sow in a pot on moistened peat or sphagnum moss;
- spray with fungicide;
- put in a sealed bag;
- put in the refrigerator, where the temperature is from 5 to 7 degrees;
- do not forget to check for the appearance of mold, we fight it with the Maxim diluted in distilled water at a temperature of 5 degrees, then we dust it with colloidal sulfur;
- after 4-6 weeks, we take out the pot and place it under fluorescent lamps with a light day of about 16 hours, temperature - 27ºС;
- when shoots appear, we begin to accustom them to the environment, gradually airing, then remove the package;
- planted in 4-5 months.
bulbs
Each bush of Dionea forms about 7 leaves, if their number is greater, the plant has babies that can be separated during transplantation and planted in a separate pot. This is the best way to propagate hybrids - the new plant will be a copy of the parent.
- With frequent irritation of the traps, they dry up, as they are designed for no more than 7 processes of food digestion. Any rotten parts of the plant are cut out to healthy tissue by powdering the cut with crushed charcoal or colloidal sulfur.
- If the leaves of Dionea turn yellow, you need to change the water for irrigation to distilled. If the leaves not only turn yellow, but also fall off, watering is adjusted upwards.
- If the leaves are stretched, and their bright color turns pale, the flower does not have enough light.
| 1. Growing temperature: in spring and summer the temperature range is wide - from 15 to 32 ° C, in winter - a cool dormant period is required at a temperature of 3 - 10 ° C. |
| 2. Lighting: long daylight hours - at least 12 hours and of them - 4 hours of direct sunlight daily - in the morning and in the evening. |
| 3. Watering and humidity: bottom watering only with distilled water, the temperature of which corresponds to the air temperature. Humidity is high. |
| 4. pruning: Pinch off dying, black traps as needed. |
| 5. Priming: an acidic, nutrient-poor substrate that is often covered with moss to prevent moisture from evaporating. |
| 6. top dressing: do not feed the flycatcher with any fertilizers. |
| 7. reproduction: dividing leaf rosettes during transplantation, separating small daughter plants and sowing seeds, segments of the peduncle, leaf cuttings. |
Botanical name: Dionaea.
Venus flytrap plant - family. Rosyankovye.
Origin. USA.
What does it look like.Dionea or predatory venus flytrap is a perennial herbaceous plant with high requirements and not the easiest to grow as an indoor plant.
root system is a small green tuber. Each adult specimen has from four to seven large traps, similar to jaws with spikes at the ends.
Leaves heart-shaped, collected in a rosette, pubescent on the upper side with small hairs. The leaf blade is pinkish-red on the lower side, on the upper side it has special - sensitive hairs that make the leaf fold when in contact with them, the trap closes instantly - within one tenth of a second. In addition, the leaves of the plant are able to secrete a sweetish nectar that attracts insects with its smell. 
The folded leaf blade has a small gap so that unworthy prey can get out. When a large enough insect enters the trap, it turns into a stomach and digests food, and then reopens after 2 to 4 days.
The plant blooms in clusters of white tubular flowers on tall peduncles and subsequently forms round black seeds. Peduncles are usually removed, as they take away strength from Dionea.
Height. Before 20 cm.
2. Venus flytrap - how to care
2.1. Reproduction, growing from seeds
Growing these plants from seeds takes a long time, at least five years before reaching maturity.
- Seeds must undergo preliminary cool stratification for 2 to 3 weeks at a temperature of 0 to 5 ° C.
- Planting material is simply slightly pressed into the surface of the soil; it is not necessary to cover them with a layer of earth.
- Crops are moistened with a spray bottle with distilled water and placed in a warm, well-lit place without direct sunlight.
- From above it is worth organizing a shelter in the form of a transparent plastic cap or plastic film to maintain a uniformly high humidity. The first sprouts may appear within 1 - 3 months.
- Crops are regularly aired and condensate is removed from the shelter.
- With the advent of the first 2 - 3 real traps, the plants dive into separate small, but rather deep cups.
the first top dressing insects are carried out when the plant is 3 months old, and the insect should be small in size.
Most often vegetative propagation is carried out division of adult specimens.
Bushes throughout their lives can form around themselves small daughter plants. Such daughters are separated during transplantation, and by this time they should have their own well-developed root system and several of their own traps.
If the root system of the daughter plant is closely intertwined with the mother plant, then it is necessary to separate the roots with a sharp knife. After such a procedure, the wound surface is sprinkled with crushed charcoal for drying and disinfection.
This method of reproduction is used every 3 years, since the Venus flytrap likes to grow up as a "family" and she does not like frequent division.
Another way is to reproduce with peduncle.
- When the peduncle reaches a height of 5 - 6 cm, it is cut off, leaving 1 cm at the base.
- Rooting is carried out in moist and loose high-moor peat, plunging the peduncle to a depth of about 1 cm.
- The plant is covered with a transparent plastic cap, glass or a simple plastic film and placed in a warm and well-lit place without direct sun.
- The successful completion of the rooting process will be indicated by the appearance of new growth, while the peduncle itself may look completely lifeless and lethargic.
Usually the whole rooting process takes from 1.5 to 2 months.
Also suitable for vegetative propagation leaf cuttings.
- The stalk is separated from the mother plant with a sharp sterile instrument in the spring.
- The base of the cuttings is treated with growth hormones and immersed in a mixture of high-moor peat and coarse-grained river sand.
- The stalk is covered with glass or transparent plastic to maintain a uniformly high level of humidity and kept at room temperature in shading from direct sun.
- The first signs of new growth usually appear within 3 months.
2.2.Ground
The flower needs poor ground with good drainage, a mixture of high peat and sphagnum moss in a ratio of 1: 1 will do. You should not offer nutrient substrates to the Venus flytrap - it will simply die in such conditions, since the root system of this plant serves mainly only to fix to the soil surface, and not to absorb nutrients.
The soil for growing dionea must have acidic pH- its most optimal value is considered to be the range from 3.5 to 4.5.
To improve drainage, a small amount is added to the soil. quartz sand. Sand can be replaced with perlite, but this substance must first be soaked in distilled water and rinsed thoroughly with it.
Often, after planting, the surface of the substrate in which the Venus flytrap will grow is covered with living moss- this helps to maintain its high humidity, since water will not evaporate from the surface of the earth.
2.3 Venus flytrap transplant
The transplant is carried out at any time, except for the dormant period, however, the beginning of a new growth is considered the most suitable. spring.
Adult specimens will need to be transplanted approximately every 3 - 4 years. This is due to the fact that the plant retains a compact shape throughout its life and does not need to increase the space and volume of the pot, and it receives nutrients not at all from the soil, but from insects and leaves.
It is desirable to transplant in such a way as to minimally affect the roots of the plant - it is better to use careful transshipment.
The main difficulty in transplanting is traps - of course, you should not touch them and prevent lumps of earth from getting inside - after all, unreasonable operation greatly weakens the plant and after transplantation it may even die.
The surface of fresh soil after landing is covered moss soaked in distilled water sphagnum - it prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil surface.
- When transplanting, it is important to observe the planting depth - deepening the plant leads to a slowdown in development and the appearance of rot.
- You should not offer the plant too large a pot - the Venus flytrap has a very modest root system, and an excess of soil not mastered by the roots will also accumulate moisture and the plant may rot.
- It is not necessary to put a drainage layer on the bottom of the pot, but there should be fairly large drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
- After planting, the soil around the plant should not be compacted - over time it will settle naturally.
- Only transplanted plants should not be exposed to direct sunlight - put the flycatcher in partial shade for about a week.
Store bought flowers do not disturb for 2 - 3 weeks, because the transplant is an additional stress, and the purchased Venus flytrap from this period of time is already trying to adapt to the new conditions of detention.
2.4. Watering
Venus flytrap loves wet, but not wet ground all year round.
The best thing water the flower through the drainage holes pot from a pan with distilled water. Regular top watering will help compact the topsoil, as a result of which oxygen will no longer flow to the root system and the plant will simply suffocate.
Watered plentifully- before the appearance of moisture in the pan, this excess is removed immediately after watering.
In the winter months, the frequency of watering is significantly reduced in accordance with the temperature of the content - they are kept in fairly dry soil. The need to reduce watering will be indicated by the lack of new growth and blackening adult leaves - this is how the plant prepares for hibernation.
Water temperature for watering should correspond to the time of year - watering with cold water in the summer months can shock the plant, and even a slight moistening of the soil during the cool winter dormant period with warm water can stimulate the plant to start growing.
Dionea really does not like the salts contained in tap water, so for its irrigation it is necessary to use only distilled water. In extreme cases, melt or rain moisture collected away from city streets is suitable.
2.5. Growing, wintering
Remove flower stalks to make the plant stronger and healthier. Peduncles are cut 1 - 2 cm above the soil level and the cut point is treated with crushed charcoal.
In autumn, the plant is capable shed all the leaves, but you should not panic - new growth begins in the spring. Of course, it is very unpleasant to watch how the Dionea traps turn black and gradually dry up, but this is a natural process and there is no need to interfere with it.
A falling asleep flower is taken out to a cool and possibly even a dark place for wintering and rest. During this period of time, the plant can be placed in the cellar, on a very cool windowsill, or even on the refrigerator door.
It is not necessary to move the flower during the growth period often from place to place - venus flytrap does not like any sudden changes.
Blackened old traps during the growing season pruned closer to the leaf itself to maintain the attractive appearance of the bush. At the same time, the leaf should not be removed - it continues the process of photosynthesis.
Venus flytrap will appreciate the stay outdoors in the warm season - it is only important to correctly acclimatize the plant to new conditions. In addition, when grown on a balcony, the plant will feed itself perfectly.
Position the Venus Flytrap in a place that is shaded from direct sunlight during the daytime hours and protected from strong winds and rain.
Good value immediately after purchase. spill the soil with distilled water- after all, in a flower shop, a Venus flytrap could get ordinary tap water.
Before wintering in cool and humid conditions, it is worth remove all loot traps, leaving leaves in place - the base - the fact is that such traps can begin to rot. Damaged and darkened leaves are also removed, and the plant is shed with distilled water with a fungicide.
Do not touch sensitive hairs inside traps just for fun. Of course, it is interesting to observe such fast movements for a plant as the slamming of traps, but the Venus flytrap spends too much energy on this.
Each leaf - a trap is able to work only three times, after which it turns black and dies.
If too much prey falls into the trap, then there is a chance that the plant will not cope with it - the traps in this case begin to turn black. Pinch off those "jaws" carefully, leaving the leaf itself on the plant, because it remains green and continues to feed the Venus flytrap through the process of photosynthesis.
Since this flower prefers high air humidity, which is quite difficult to recreate in an ordinary residential building, then one of the simplest solutions is to grow Dionea in an aquarium or florarium.
2.6. Flowering time
May June, the flowering period can stretch for several weeks.
You should not leave a peduncle on the plant - it will draw too much strength from the flower and it may die. Flowers can only be received by experienced flower growers who can satisfy all the needs of this exotic plant and are able to grow it for many years.
2.7. Fertilizer than to feed the Venus flytrap
Never don't feed the dionea- fertilizers for houseplants cause the root system to rot.
The most natural food for the Venus flytrap is all kinds of insects - only with this method of feeding the plant will develop well and constantly throw out new young leaves.
Prey size plays an important role - each insect must be 2 times less the trap itself, the Venus flytrap simply cannot cope with a large insect that has fallen into the jaws and the trap will eventually turn black and die.
Similar consequences await flowers that have caught an insect that is too tough, with a large chitinous shell.
In the summer, if you take a flower to the balcony or just to the garden, it will do just fine without outside help and feed itself.
You should not try to force feed the Venus flytrap - if the trap does not work, then the plant does not need nutrients. On average, each bush is satisfied one caught victim in 3 - 4 weeks.
In the winter months, the plant does not feed at all and does not develop - this is normal, the Venus flytrap also needs a "vacation". Also, insect feeding is contraindicated for sick and weak plants - digestion of food for them will be difficult.
First feeding after transplant spend only a month later, not earlier.
If the traps do not respond to prey and slamming does not occur, then the flower simply does not need additional nutrients.
During the dormant period, which lasts for 3 - 4 months, you do not need to feed the plants, it is better to offer food to the Venus flytrap in the spring, when new growth begins.
2.8 Diseases and pests
Diseases and pests appear mainly in violation of agricultural technology.
- With a lack of light, the plant slows down development.
- The traps turn black if too large prey got into them, such traps can be cut off.
- Young leaves may turn black at the top when flooded.
- fungal diseases, including sooty fungus, appear when grown in cool and too humid conditions, especially if there is no necessary air circulation.This disease manifests itself in the form of a black, fluffy coating on the leaves of the flower.
- Also, the plant can get sick. botrytis.
- Leaf blades become yellow when watering with tap water - this is a sign that salt has accumulated in the substrate and the plant urgently needs to be transplanted.
- Foliage may turn yellow and fall off when the soil dries out.
- With prolonged exposure to direct sunlight on the plant, it may form sunburn.
From insect pests traps can be attacked by, for example, aphids, spider mites, mealybugs.
Insects - pests
| insect name | Signs of infection | Control measures |
| The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with a fluffy cotton-like white bloom. Plants lag behind in development | Folk remedies: spraying with soapy-alcohol solution. Infusion of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, and pharmacy tincture of calendula performed well. Chemicals: green soap solution, Aktellik, Fitoverm. | |
| spider mite | Inconspicuous cobwebs on the leaves, yellowing and falling of foliage with extensive damage. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down. | Folk ways. Plants can be washed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation with an ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemicals based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Aktellik. |
| Aphid | Sticky droplets appear on the leaf blades, leaf blades curl and deform, tender buds and young leaves wither. On the tops of the shoots, buds or the underside of the leaf plates, insect colonies can be seen. The flowers of an aphid-infested plant may become misshapen. | Folk ways: nettle infusion, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, tobacco and dandelion infusion, onion, marigold, yarrow, tansy, dusting with virgin ash. Chemicals: Sulfur powders, treatment with green potassium soap of green mass without getting into the ground, Decis, Aktellik, Fitoverm. |
2.9.Features of content - light
Optimal Dionea requires at least 12 hours of light per day. At least 4 of them the sun should hit the plant.
Shading will be necessary during the spring and summer daylight hours.
Dionea develops well with artificial lighting fluorescent or phytolamps.
If the inside of the traps often remains green, the plant may not have enough light; in good light, the traps become reddish tint.
Experienced flower growers are even advised to put on a pot with a plant mark- which side to put it to the light. You do not need to rotate the pot around its own axis in different directions to the light source - the Venus flytrap does not like this.
Unfortunately, the root system of the Venus flytrap doesn't like overheating, so this plant should be planted in a light pot or just wrap it with a sheet of white paper. Also, the container with the plant can be covered from direct sunlight in the lower part.
At the onset of a cool dormant period, not higher than 5 ° Since the development of the plant slows down and lighting does not play any role - you can put the pot even in a completely dark place.
The most suitable for keeping this carnivorous plant are Eastern And Western window.
2.10 Temperature
endure pretty wide temperature range, from 15 to 32 ° C. During the winter months, they enter a dormant period and can withstand short frosts down to -1 ° C - the optimum temperature during the dormant period is considered to be a range from 3 to 10°C.
In the absence of a cool dormant period, the Venus flytrap will not live long.
2.11 Spraying
Spray flower periodically or put it on pallet with wet pebbles. In the latter case, make sure that the bottom of the pot does not come into direct contact with the water in the pan.
To increase the humidity of the air, you can put next to the plant room humidifier or simple decorative fountain or a pond.
It also helps increase moisture. layer of wet sphagnum moss, which is surrounded by a pot with a plant - evaporating from its surface, water will humidify the air for a long time.
The Venus flytrap prefers to be in well ventilated areas with good air movement. Do not expose the plant to cold drafts.
Venus flytrap (lat. Dionaea muscipula) is a species of carnivorous plants from the monotypic genus Dionea of the Rosyankovye family (Droseraceae).
The Venus flytrap flower closes its brightly colored trap leaves with sharp and long spikes along the edges with an unusual speed for a plant. An instant reaction occurs reflexively, as soon as the victim touches the sensitive hairs on the surface. A slammed dense bivalve leaf immediately turns from a trap into the stomach of a flycatcher, where the digestion of the next portion of food begins.
origin of name due to a mistake made by a botanist in writing Muscipula (Mousetrap), who wanted to write muscicipula proper (fly trap). Literally, it should sound like "Dionea muscicipula" - Dione, in Greek mythology, was the mother of Aphrodite, in the Roman version of Venus. The first American settlers allegedly compared the leaves of the plant with female sexual organs ... or compared with the shape of sea shells, which is also a symbol of the feminine, which is vividly shown in the work of Botticelli (Botticelli).
Leaves- green, elongated, consisting of two, slamming parts, teeth are located along the edges. The Dionaea trap is designed in such a way that the plant catches the insect with lightning speed and with tight fixation. A thin bristle on the inside of the leaf is activated upon contact, within 30 seconds the prey is "identified" directly from other external factors, such as a raindrop.
For landing dionei use a mixture consisting of 75% sphagnum moss and 25% mixture for rooting cuttings. The acidity index of moss is ideally 5.5; TDS (Total Dissolved Salts) should be zero.
Before placing the plant in the prepared mixture, moisten it thoroughly. The most optimal time for planting and transplanting Dionea is early spring (at this time the Venus flytrap begins its growth). The optimal size of the pot depends on the size of the dionea: on the one hand, it must be roomy enough for the plant to live comfortably in it for a whole year, but at the same time, the pot should not be too large, because the Venus flytrap is quite a miniature plant.
Location.
The natural habitat is a temperate maritime climate. The plant loves cool fresh air, but dies in a draft. The lighting is moderate, it can withstand short-lived bright sun, in summer it can be in the fresh air. the best option for placing the plant in an aquarium or terrarium that needs to be shaded from the midday sun. Or grow with fluorescent lighting. Can be left in the terrarium for the winter. Prefers a cool place, +3 +15 C Avoid dry-warm air (proximity of the heater), high air humidity.
Lighting.
Dionea likes a bright location, but not the hot sun. A window sill in a house that gets morning sun in summer and midday sun in winter is a great place to place a Venus flytrap. If there is no such suitable bright place, then dionea will need additional illumination. Venus flytrap is grown in terrariums, in greenhouses, in closed glass vessels, on glazed loggias. Some plant lovers grow dionea quite successfully in the open air.
Watering.
Soft water moderate in spring and summer, in winter during dormancy store in a dry place. Many experts recommend the use of rainwater poor in lime, but Western experts claim that rainwater contains organic and mineral elements, especially if the water has accumulated in metal vessels. Such water has an increased concentration of metal salts, which is detrimental to the plant. must be constantly moist. Dryness is poison for plant traps. In summer, you can water the plant by immersing it 2 cm or the top of the pot in water for half an hour. It is not recommended to feed the plant with fertilizers, its roots die off from this. And do not feed insects, only live ones and very rarely.
Air humidity.
The optimum level of air humidity for the Venus flytrap is 70-90%. This is most easily achieved by keeping the plant in a terrarium or suitable glass containers.
Dionea loves damp-cool contents with an abundance of fresh air. If the air temperature is high (+30 degrees and above), the flycatcher may completely stop growing. After such stress, the plant resumes growth with extreme reluctance. By the way, the air temperature in the natural habitats of Dionysus is kept at around +40 degrees throughout the summer. But there, Venus flytraps do not stop growing due to the fact that they always remain cool (cool moisture enters through the capillaries from the depths and, evaporating, maintains the coolness of the soil).
Fertilizer.
Despite the biological characteristics of this species, DO NOT specifically "feed" your Venus flytrap with flies or other insects. Otherwise, you will simply kill your "predator". Dionea herself must "enjoy the excitement of the chase" - at the same time, digestive juices will fully stand out for further absorption of the victim.
If it still seems to you that the plant is "starving" - feed it with a half solution of fish emulsion (water should be watered in the container!). The flycatcher receives its main food from the peat mixture in which it lives.
Rest period.
By winter, the Venus flytrap falls into a dormant state, completely stopping its growth. You may even sometimes think that the plant is dying. Don't worry, this impression is deceptive. This is a natural life cycle stage for the Venus flytrap. A dormant period is simply necessary for her in order to have the strength after a winter rest for the full growth of new traps, flowering and seed formation. Your task during the winter is to remove dead traps and leaves from Dionea, and new ones will definitely grow in spring!
Dionea flycatcher (Dionaea muscipula), also called "Venus flytrap" is the most famous "predator" plant on the North American continent. This is the only species in the genus.
Venus flytrap(lat. Dionaea muscipula) is a species of carnivorous plants from the monotypic genus Dionaea of the Rosyankovye family (Droseraceae). The scientific specific name (muscipula) is translated from Latin as "mousetrap", probably by mistake of a botanist, at least that's what is commonly believed. The species received its Russian name in honor of Venus, the Roman goddess of love and plants. The English name of the species (English Venus flytrap) corresponds to the Russian one.
An adult copy of the flycatcher (it catches and assimilates not only flies, but also mosquitoes and other insects) usually does not exceed 15 cm. In spring, the Venus flytrap blooms with white flowers on a long peduncle.
The original habitat of the carnivorous Dionea is peat bogs in Florida, Georgia, North and South Carolina (USA). Venus flytraps grow in an area called "savannah" - consisting of relief lowland "islands" with an area of 1 to 5 hectares (no more than fifty of them have survived in their virgin form).
The trap of the Venus flytrap consists of two halves-shutters, vaguely resembling the opening shells of mollusks in their structure. Along the edges of the valves are two rows of teeth. Glands are located along the rim of the valve, along the inner row of teeth of the trap. They produce and secrete a pleasant-smelling nectar that attracts insects to the trap. Each of the two inner flat surfaces of the dionea trap is equipped with three trigger hairs. If insects in the process of absorbing nectar repeatedly touch these hairs, then the trap begins to close.
At first, the Venus flytrap trap is only slightly covered, and the insects have the opportunity to move back and forth within the trap. If the insect is small, in principle, it has a chance to avoid the deplorable fate of being eaten and escape by slipping through the hole between the teeth. When this happens, the triggers stop being stimulated and the trap fully opens again (about a day later). Dionea simply needs this response mechanism: it helps to prevent the loss of time for a “false triggering” of the trap due to extraneous interference (for example, raindrops, sticks brought by the wind, twigs or chitin shells of insects).
But if the bug that got into the trap of the dionea trap could not get out of it, then the stimulation of triggers continues, the trap closes more and more tightly. The process of digestion begins. From the glands located on the inner surfaces of the valves of the trap of the Venus flytrap, digestive juice is abundantly secreted - the insect completely drowns in this liquid. The trap remains closed for several days. When it finally opens, only the undigested chitinous shell of the former insect is exposed. Each Venus flytrap trap is designed for about three digestive processes, and then it dies.
There are two alternative hypotheses for the effect of this impulse. According to one of them, these cells rapidly release hydroxonium ions into the cell walls, loosening and causing their rapid swelling by osmosis. According to the second hypothesis, the cells in the inner layers of the blades and the middle part of the leaf rapidly secrete other ions, water is also released as a result of osmosis, which leads to cell collapse.
If the prey was unable to free itself, it continues to stimulate the inner surface of the leaf lobes, causing cell growth. Eventually, the edges of the sheets close, completely closing the trap and forming a "stomach" in which the digestion process takes place. Digestion is catalyzed by enzymes that are secreted by glands in the lobes. Digestion takes approximately 10 days, after which only an empty chitinous shell remains of the prey. After that, the trap opens and is ready to capture new prey. During the life of the trap, an average of three insects fall into it.
Venus Flytrap is perfect not only for decorating the windowsill, but also for an interesting introduction of your children to the fascinating and entertaining world of nature.
The first and most common misconception about the Venus Flytrap is that it requires very difficult care, since it comes from southern latitudes, that it is very demanding on high temperature and humidity. In fact, these plants come from rather cold northern latitudes, and they are perennials.
These plants are found naturally in southeastern Northern California, growing in open, sunny, and moist grasslands. In addition, the Flycatcher grows in the northeastern swamps of South Carolina, preferring swamps with peaty and sandy soils. Although Flycatchers grow in marshes, they are extremely intolerant of stagnant air, and require several hours in full sun. In the winter period of dormancy, the vital activity of plants decreases; at such a time, low temperatures and short days are preferable for them, that is, a much smaller amount of sunlight compared to the summer period.
In order to achieve significant success in the cultivation of this plant, extreme attention should be paid to the conditions in which the Flycatcher grows in nature and what its requirements are, accordingly, to the natural factors surrounding it.
The growth cycle of the Venus Flytrap consists of four periods, with different types of growth in each period. In the spring, coming out of winter dormancy, the plant produces a rosette of leaves, 2-4 inches (5-10cm) in diameter. at the same time, several stems with white flowers may appear.
In summer, several more types of leaves appear. On top of the lower leaves pressed low to the ground, new ones grow, which are held high enough on the stems above the ground. Traps grow out of them. Leaves with traps grow constantly, replacing their dead predecessors.
When the days begin to get shorter and colder, the plant begins to prepare for hibernation, during this period only the lower rosette of leaves remains.
The flycatcher belongs to semi-evergreen plants. Even in winter, a few leaves remain on the surface. The leaves are quite tolerant of frost, but in extreme cold they can die off. The underground part remains alive. Tiny bulbs that look like lily bulbs are gaining strength to thrive next spring.
Flycatcher can be grown in swamp gardens, terrariums with appropriate microclimate, even if you choose to keep it on a windowsill, it will do quite well. If the plant is growing on a windowsill, place the Flycatcher pot in a tray or container filled with 2-3 centimeters of rainwater or distilled water. Under no circumstances should the soil be allowed to dry out. The plant should be kept in a window where it will be guaranteed several hours of light, preferably in the morning, since the midday sun can scorch the plants. Probably the most interesting thing for Flycatcher owners is its feeding, after all, it is for this purpose that carnivorous plants are usually purchased, but it should be in moderation. The flycatcher should be given soft insects that can be easily digested by its traps. If you overfeed the leaf, it may die. In no case should Muholova be fed fried and raw meat, or very large insects, since they are not completely digested by the plant, which causes the process of decay inside the trap.
Providing sufficient and natural amount of light for the Flycatcher daily will help the plant to go into a state of winter dormancy in time. This will be a consequence of the reduction in the amount of sunlight closer to autumn. At this time, new leaves practically do not grow, and only a small rosette of them remains. The flycatcher should be provided with a low temperature in order for the plant to enter a state of winter dormancy. The pot with the plant can no longer be kept in a pan with water, but at the same time, make sure that the earth does not dry out, then the Flycatcher should be placed in a room with a temperature of 2 - 10 ˚С. For this purpose, an unheated basement or a room, or a section in the refrigerator, with the appropriate temperature, is perfect. When storing the flycatcher in the refrigerator for winter, the plant pot should be placed in a plastic bag to prevent the soil from drying out. Lighting during this period is not at all necessary for the Flycatcher, however, during the winter it must be checked regularly to prevent drying out, or vice versa - decay. Hibernation for this plant is extremely important, if it grows continuously throughout the year, it may die from a lack of energy.
With the onset of warm spring days, the plant can be taken out again to its original place, and soon its growth will resume. At this time, the Flycatcher blooms and noticeably increases in size. In the same period, it can be transplanted using a peat or peat-sand mixture. Regular garden soil mixes should not be used as they are not suitable for Flycatcher in terms of acidity.
Growing Flycatcher in terrariums imitating a swamp is practically no different from growing in pots. The only difference is that in a terrarium it is a little more difficult to provide sufficient lighting. For the normal growth of the Flycatcher, a terrarium with a volume of 40-75 liters will suffice. The bottom of the terrarium can be laid out with a layer of moss and peat, or a peat-sand mixture. Since the soil must constantly be moistened, a drainage layer is not necessary. Only distilled or rain water should be used for irrigation, as minerals from untreated water will accumulate in this soil. In order to provide a sufficient amount of illumination, a 40 watt fluorescent lamp can be used, which should be installed at a height of 20-30 cm above the plants. It should be borne in mind that the higher the terrarium, the more difficult it is to light it. The duration of artificial lighting should be adjusted depending on the season. During the Flycatcher's transition period to winter dormancy, the terrarium should be moved to an unheated basement or room, or removed from the terrarium, leaving some moss and peat, placed in plastic bags and transferred to the refrigerator.
If the climatic zone allows, Venerina Muholova can be grown in a garden on the street, creating the pre-requisite conditions. At the same time, she will feel and look much better than when grown in flowerpots or terrariums. The flycatcher is planted in pots with a depth of at least 20 cm and a width of at least 30 cm. For planting, a peat and peat-sand mixture is used, on top of which it is desirable to lay a layer of moss so that the peat does not wash out during rains and thunderstorms. You need to make sure that the plants do not dry out and at the same time, you need to choose a well-lit place. When the Flycatcher grows outdoors, it can feed itself and will delight you with excellent results. Being constantly in the fresh air, with natural lighting, it will bloom in time, and go to winter rest. If the winter in your area is not very cold, the Flycatcher can be left to winter outside, otherwise it is better for it to winter in a cold basement or refrigerator, as described earlier.
The Venus flytrap flower is a species of carnivorous insectivorous plants of the monotypic genus, which belongs to the sundew family. In its natural habitat, this plant grows in the peat wasp bogs of Georgia, New Jersey, North and South Carolina. The Venus flytrap is listed as a critically endangered plant in the Americas.
Another name for the flower is Dionea. Dionea was first discovered in 1760. In the same year, the plant was named dionea in honor of the Greek goddess, the mother of Aphrodite - Venus. Among indoor plants, the Venus flytrap is quite a popular plant around the world.
Let's take a closer look at the main types of Venus flytrap, as well as the features and care at home.
The flycatcher flower is perennial herbaceous and insectivorous plant, which belongs sundew family. The height of the dionea reaches 15 cm, no more. The flower has a bulbous stem, white inflorescences, which are collected on a long peduncle. Since in its natural habitat the Venus flytrap grows on soils with a low nitrogen content, various mollusks and insects, in particular slugs, serve as a source of this element for the flower.
On a Venus flytrap, as a rule, there are 4-7 leaves that grow from an underground short stem, forming a rosette. Dionea traps are formed after its flowering. The length of one trap can reach from 8 to 15 cm. Traps on a predatory plant are green, but in good light you can see their internal cavities of a red tint. These traps are formed at the ends of short petioles, which are assembled into rosettes. The closer to summer time, the longer these petioles become, which gradually take on a vertical position.
Venus flytrap traps consist of two flaps with sparse bristles along the edges, which can slam shut. Inside the trap itself there are glands that produce a special nectar that attracts the victim. Along with the bristles on the edges of the trap, there are 3 triggers that close when irritated by insects, while the plant secretes a digestive secret.
Digestion of food in a Venus flytrap, as a rule, lasts from 5 to 10 days. After this time, the predatory plant opens its trap. The trap dies after digesting two or three victims, although cases have been recorded when one trap served as a grave for as many as 7 insects.
Main types
There are a huge variety of varieties of Venus flytrap, among which the most common are the following:
Venus flytrap: home care
How to grow?
It is immediately worth noting that the Venus flytrap can be grown both in a flower bed in the garden and on the windowsill. The process of growing this plant has a high degree of complexity. Despite this, caring for a flower is not so difficult, unlike some other exotic plants. Speaking about the care of the Venus flytrap, first of all, it is necessary to organize optimal conditions for its development and growth.
Venus flytrap is recommended to be placed on the windowsill, which is located on the east or west side of the apartment. Every day, the flower needs sunbathing, the duration of which should be 5 hours in the morning and / or evening. If the plant does not have enough light, then it is necessary to organize artificial lighting.
A predatory plant is often grown in florariums or terrariums, since this is how the necessary air humidity can be achieved. It is worth paying attention to the fact that in such cases artificial lighting is a necessity for the plant. For this, it is recommended to use lamps with a power of at least 40 watts. They are located above the predatory flower at a height of at least 20 cm. The lamps must work daily for 15 hours.
The Venus flytrap does not like stagnant air very much, and also needs constant ventilation. At the same time, drafts should not be allowed in the room in which the plant is contained. You should also avoid midday sun with direct sunlight. In summer, the Venus flytrap can be taken out to the balcony or terrace. The flower pot does not need to be rotated around its axis in order to achieve uniform illumination, as many flower growers are used to doing with other indoor flowers, since the Venus flytrap does not tolerate any movement.
The most comfortable predatory plant will feel in the summer at an air temperature of 20 to 30 degrees. In winter, the air temperature in the room can drop to 7 degrees.
Watering
The root system of the Venus flytrap does not have the ability to process mineral salts from the soil, so the plants must be watered with soft rainwater. At the same time, it is not recommended to accumulate rainwater in metal containers; plastic buckets can be used for this. If you do not have the opportunity to collect rainwater, you can use distilled water for irrigation.
The soil in the pot of the Venus flytrap should be moist throughout the entire time. Lack of moisture is detrimental to plant traps. In order to moisten the substrate, the pot with the plant can be placed on a tray with enough water so that all the drainage holes located at the bottom are immersed in it. Thus, a predatory flower will be able to independently fill the necessary need for moisture.
Fertilizer
Speaking about caring for a Venus flytrap at home, you should pay attention to the fact that the plant does not need to add any fertilizer to the substrate, as it feeds on insects.
What to feed?
First of all, you need to know that the Venus flytrap is strictly forbidden to feed the following insects:
- earthworms;
- Beetles in a hard chitinous shell;
- Gnawing insects that can damage the trap.
It is also strictly forbidden to feed the plant with meat or sausage, as the traps from this food begin to rot. For the entire growing season, 2-3 live medium-sized flies, mosquitoes or spiders will be enough for the plant. The plant also cannot be fed in the following cases:
- If it is sick and weakened;
- If it grew in poor light and in conditions of too humid air;
- If it has undergone a transplant or other stress.
Feeding flycatcher insects should stop with the onset of September. Such fasting should continue until next spring.
Transfer
Venus flytrap, as a rule, needs to be transplanted at home every 2-3 years, it is recommended to transplant in the spring. It is recommended to choose a pot for dionea not wide, but deep, since its root system sometimes reaches 20 cm in length. Care is recommended during transplantation, since the root system of a carnivorous plant is rather fragile.
- The flower must be removed from the pot, the root system must be freed from the old soil. If it does not move well from the roots, it must be soaked for several minutes in water. After that, the leaves are washed.
- The substrate in the new pot should be 4 parts peat, 1 part quartz sand and 2 parts perlite. At the same time, it is worth paying attention to the fact that before mixing the substrate, perlite should be soaked in water for a week, and sand should be boiled in distillate.
- The Venus flytrap does not need drainage.
- After transplanting a Venus flytrap, it will take about 5 weeks to adapt to the new substrate, so the plant must be placed in partial shade and watered more frequently.
reproduction
